The biggest issue when potty training a puppy in an apartment is the distance between the living space and the yard. In many apartments, you may have to get through hallways, multiple doors, flights of stairs, or an elevator to reach an acceptable outdoor potty spot. Even if you start moving the moment your puppy shows the slightest sign of needing to go out, the time it takes to navigate all of that is often too much for a young dog’s bladder. If you can’t consistently make it in time, it can be very difficult to teach the puppy where it’s appropriate to potty.

On the monetary side, there are also security deposits to consider. If your puppy has accidents on the apartment floor—or in public spaces such as hallways—that leave any visible or olfactory sign, you could be looking at footing the bill for a new carpet. This can add a level of stress that isn’t helpful to the potty training process.

There are a few ways to manage these concerns including:

• Getting your timing right
• Using puppy potty pads
• Starting with dog diapers

Timing and Puppy Potty Training

It is doable to rely solely on getting your timing right for potty training a puppy in an apartment. I’ve done it before, but it’s difficult and usually results in some accidents along the way. If you want to try it, you’ll have to be especially vigilant when it comes to recognizing your puppy’s body language and figuring out her schedule. Having good cleaning products on hand is also helpful.

The key is to go outside early and often. Any time you think your puppy might have to potty, take her outside immediately. It’s better to waste time on a false alarm or spend longer than you might like hanging around outside than to have an accident in the elevator. Remember, puppies in the 8-12 week age range need to go out approximately every hour, so the time commitment is significant.

How to Potty Train A Puppy On Pads

Dog potty pads can be a useful tool when it comes to potty training in an apartment. They provide an easily accessible spot for the puppy to relieve herself without a long sprint to the apartment building exit and most puppies figure them out fairly quickly. As with any potty training endeavor, the key to teaching a puppy to potty on pads is to be consistent. To start:

1. Put a clean pad in the spot where you want your puppy to relieve herself. You’ll want to choose a location you (and the puppy) can get to easily. Don’t change the location of the pads once you start the potty training process.
2. Show the pad to the puppy. Encourage her to walk on it to get comfortable with texture. As noted in “Indoor Dog Potty”, do not throw treats onto the pad to get the puppy to walk on it since dogs are unlikely to relieve themselves where they get food.
3. Bring your puppy to the pad any time you think she might need to potty.
4. Praise and reward her when she pees or poops on the pad. Give treats at least a few steps away from the pad.

How To Use Puppy Potty Pads and Outdoor Potty Training Together

Using potty pads does not prevent you from also training your puppy to potty outdoors. It’s just a matter of teaching her that both the potty pads and the grass outside are acceptable spots to relieve herself. The method for teaching her which spots are appropriate is the same: get her there before she goes and reward her when she does.

With my dogs, I used potty pads more frequently when they were tiny and phased the pads out as their bladder control got better. I still keep potty pads on-hand for weather emergencies or if I need to be out of the house for longer than I prefer for the dogs to go between bathroom breaks.

How To Use Puppy Diapers

With my last puppy, I chose to put her in dog diapers while we worked through the early stages of potty training since the entire apartment was carpeted. That way, if I wasn’t fast enough, I was only changing a diaper rather than scrubbing the carpet and hoping nothing stained. All in all, she wore diapers for about three weeks before I felt like she had enough bladder control to make it outside comfortably and was well on her way to understanding where to potty. We were in a second-floor unit with only one door and a stairway between us and the grass—if you are living in a high-rise, it may take longer.

It is important to note that puppies should never wear diapers without supervision. They can pull them off, chew them up, and swallow pieces, which can lead to dangerous intestinal blockages. Puppy diapers should also be changed regularly to avoid irritation and urinary tract infections. Get fresh diapers several times a day—even if they’re dry—and change wet diapers immediately.

I do not recommend putting diapers on a puppy at night. It’s impossible to supervise the puppy while you are asleep and it’s better for her to have some time without a diaper on. In addition, I let my puppy run around without a diaper for twenty minutes or so after coming back inside from a successful potty break. At night, she slept in a crate by my bed and I set up potty pads for her nighttime bathroom breaks until I felt like she would be able to consistently make it outside in time.

The trick with diapers is that you can’t get lazy. They’re only meant as floor protection—diapers themselves do not teach a puppy where it’s OK to potty and it can slow down the potty training process if you get complacent. The goal is still to get the puppy to an appropriate potty spot.

The post How To Potty Train a Puppy in an Apartment appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Most puppies can start transitioning to solid foods between 3 and 4 weeks of age. At this stage, they are typically ready to start exploring solid foods as their teeth start coming in and they begin to show interest in more than just their mother’s milk. The first introduction to solids is typically soft food mixed with milk replacer and is a very messy ordeal, so be sure they are in a place that can be easily cleaned.

Choosing a Puppy Food

When choosing a food to introduce to puppies, opt for a high-quality food that is specifically formulated for the growth and development of puppies. This is especially important for large-breed puppies.

Start with a food that is easy to chew. Some brands offer smaller, softer kibble, or food that is designed to be soaked in water, which can help to ease the transition from a milk to solid diet.

Begin by mixing a small amount of solid food with puppy formula to create a porridge-like consistency. This will help the puppies adjust to the new texture, flavor, and aroma of hard foods. Gradually decrease the amount of liquid and increase the proportion of solid food over the course of a week or two. A slow transition can help prevent digestive upset and allows time for the gastrointestinal tract, and the microbiome of the gut, to adjust to the change in diet.

Puppies have very small stomachs and high energy needs. They typically require three to four meals a day until they are about 6 months old. Follow the feeding guidelines for the type of solid food you choose and adjust the portions based on the puppy’s growth and activity levels.

Puppies are in a state of constant change, which means they may go through growth periods and require more food. Both overfeeding and underfeeding can lead to health issues, so flexibility and adjustments in feeding amount and frequency are important.

Regular veterinary check-ups are important to monitor and ensure proper growth and development; your vet can provide personalized feeding recommendations based on your puppy’s individual needs. Always provide fresh water alongside hard food in a puppy-safe bowl. Proper hydration is crucial for digestion and overall health.

Keep an eye on the puppy’s stool and overall health during the transition. Loose stools or vomiting can indicate the change is too abrupt and you may need to slow down the transition process. If you notice persistent digestive issues, consult your veterinarian. Puppies can decline quickly and may require medical intervention to prevent disastrous outcomes.

By 8 weeks of age, puppies should be fully weaned and completely transitioned to solid food. This is typically when most puppies are also ready to go to their new homes, so most new owners do not have to worry about the messy transition period during weaning. Having a puppy comfortable eating solids is vital for their continued growth and development, so be sure to thank your breeder, fosterer, or shelter for helping to get your new puppy through this important transitionary stage.

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We don’t really know why young puppies have such distinctive breath. The top theory is that it happens because these little guys are either only consuming milk or have only recently started eating solid food. The milk that they get from their mother could contribute to the aroma of puppy breath.

Other Reasons Puppy Breath Smells Bad

If your puppy truly does have bad breath, consider these potential causes:

1. Eating poop. You read that right. Sometimes our puppies get confused as they are learning about solid food and eat their own or their siblings’ feces. The best way to resolve this behavior and stop it from becoming a habit is to pick up poop immediately so it isn’t available.
2. Sometimes puppies can get bad breath as their deciduous teeth fall out and the permanent teeth erupt through their gums. Teething usually occurs around four to six months of age. Not every puppy will get bad breath during teething, but if your pup is in that age range, that could be the issue.
3. Something is stuck in the puppy’s mouth. If your puppy gets a piece of food or a toy stuck in his teeth, over time it will rot and build up bacteria, resulting in a rancid odor. Be sure to check the roof of your puppy’s mouth for a fragment of a stick or toy stuck sideways. If you can’t get the offending item free, schedule a veterinary appointment.
4. Dental disease. It is unusual for young puppies to have periodontal disease, but it is possible. Generally, puppies haven’t had the chance to build up the bacteria and calculus that cause dental disease and bad breath. Still, check to see if your puppy’s gums are red or bleeding, or if he has a broken tooth. You may also notice him pawing at his mouth or only chewing food on one side. If you think your puppy may have dental disease, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to come up with a treatment plan.

How to Freshen Puppy Breath

As long as your puppy doesn’t have an underlying medical issue causing bad breath, you can help keep his puppy kisses pleasant by introducing tooth brushing. Choose an enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs. Your veterinarian may even have some free samples you can try.

For puppies who still have their baby teeth or who are teething, just let your puppy lick the toothpaste off a toothbrush once a day. This helps to build a positive association with the toothbrush, plus the enzymes in the toothpaste help prevent plaque from building up on the teeth. (Did you know PetSmile is the only canine toothpaste approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council?)

You can start brushing your puppy’s teeth once he has stopped teething and has all his adult teeth. Start gradually by just touching the brush to one tooth a night, then build up over time. The American Veterinary Medical Association has a good video on how to brush your dog’s teeth.

If you’re not sure if your puppy’s breath is normal puppy breath, drop in to your veterinary clinic and offer puppy cuddles to staff members who love puppy breath. They can tell you how your puppy’s breath measures up, and if they say it isn’t normal, you can schedule an appointment right then.

The post Causes of Puppy Bad Breath appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

The owner was at her wit’s end—a common place to be during puppyhood—saying, “We need to be able to eat in peace!”  She had read that she should teach the puppy “place” so that he’d calmly lie on his bed during dinner hour.

That is a lovely vision, indeed, but it’s a very high bar for a 9-week-old puppy. There’s a more realistic way to create a peaceful kitchen table scene for the humans that works beautifully for your puppy, too.

Why Is he Acting This Way?

First, let’s think about this from the puppy’s point of view. (That is, of course, the smartest kick-off to solving any dog issue. If you want your answers to be long lasting, they have to work for the canine partner, too.)

So, why is the puppy being so annoying during the family dinner? First off, his nose is basically screaming at him: “OMG, there’s food!” A dog has more than 200 million scent receptors in his nose compared to our measly six million. If dinner smells good to you, just imagine what it smells like to him!

Combine that with the deeply rooted survival instincts that tell him to grab nutrition whenever he can, and of course he’s going to make a beeline for your plate.

If that weren’t enough, consider another motivating factor: togetherness. This little puppy only recently left his real family, where he spent every waking hour surrounded by littermates and mom. He’s not used to being alone, and wow does it feel terrific when this whole new family is all together, particularly if they were off at work and school all day.

So, to recap, this little pup is very naturally over-aroused because of the excitement of the food and the thrill of the togetherness. Now that we think about it, we humans can’t get cranky about that, right? As the adults in the room, we just need to help our little toddler navigate this moment in a way that works for us all.

Planning Ahead to Meet your Puppy’s Needs

Since we can expect a pup to have big feelings around our human dinner hour, that means we’re able to make a plan ahead of time. What can we do? How can we structure this regular occurrence to bring out the best in the pup and teach him the behavior we’d like to see? Try putting this three-step plan into action at mealtimes:

1. Address the food issue with a frozen Toppl. Rather than keeping the pup on a different eating schedule, give the puppy his dinner at the same time you sit down at the table, so that he’s busy enjoying his own delicious meal instead of lusting after yours.

If you’re thinking, “But it only takes him 20 seconds to snarf up that scoop of kibble,” you’re right! That’s why you’ll want to freeze his dinner to make it last.

Take that same scoop of kibble, add some water and a spoonful of plain yogurt to make a slurry. If you’re inspired, add a dollop of peanut butter or canned pumpkin. Even more inspired? Add a few veggies like carrots and beans.

Use that concoction to stuff a few Toppls, and then freeze them. (Toppls, a chew-resistant toy made by West Paw, have a wider opening than Kongs, so the pup is more likely to enjoy them to the very last drop.)

If you’re thinking it feels a little mean to make food harder to eat, remember that it is natural for a canine to forage for his food. In fact, this session of chewing and licking will be deeply satisfying for your puppy. Studies have shown that for dogs, chewing and licking can be calming, lowering heart rates and reducing anxiety.

2. Address the togetherness issue with a nearby crate. Rather than isolating the puppy elsewhere during this rewarding moment of family togetherness, make a plan to help him be a part of it.

My favorite way to structure this is to have the puppy’s crate in the kitchen, so that he can enjoy his Toppl while being included in the family dinner. He can listen to his people, smell and see everything — but you’re helping him develop the habit of lying quietly nearby during mealtimes. Keeping him confined but happily busy keeps him from practicing unwanted habits like jumping, biting, barking, and whining.

3. Address the engagement issue with timing. If the Toppl and crate don’t work well immediately at your house, think about what happens for the hour before dinner. Has the pup had a chance to engage with everybody in the room? If they just walked in the door after being away, it may be hard for the puppy to settle.

Try adjusting your timing a bit. Build in a high-engagement 15-minute game in the yard or the rec room to give your pup a chance to connect the way he needs to, before asking him to sit quietly just feet from his favorite people without touching them.

Over time, all of this becomes a deeply ingrained pattern, and trust me when I say that patterns can be the unsung heroes of a relaxed interspecies life. When something simply becomes “how we do it,” there’s no need for a bunch of cues and direction. In this case, the pup starts to look forward to your dinner hour as the time he gets to run to his crate and enjoy chewing and listening.

If you still want to work toward using “place” during dinner, this is a wonderful first step. You are teaching how to hang out quietly nearby the family while they’re eating. Next you can start separately teaching how to go to “place” for a few seconds, then for a minute. As you strengthen those behaviors over time, one day you can marry them in that beautiful “place” on the bed during dinner. But for now, with your little one? The well-timed Toppl-and-crate combination will do the trick.

The post Is Your Puppy Ruining Your Family Dinners? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

First, throw out the idea that there’s a certain puppy training schedule that’s done by age or a time frame. Nonsense. Training starts as soon as you bring your puppy home, and puppies are individuals. Some learn more slowly than others, and that’s OK.

Remember that the younger the dog, the shorter the training sessions should be. Puppies tire quickly. Several very short sessions throughout the day—with yummy treats—will accomplish your goals faster.

And remember that you never stop training your dog. Everything you do is training, and you need to reinforce the behavior you want with positive reinforcement. You’re teaching your puppy every time you handle him.

Be very careful not to overwhelm your puppy. Puppies need socialization, time to get used to new and different things, other dogs, new people, and so on. You do not want to scare them! “A robust body of research has shown that puppies are deeply, quickly, and often permanently impacted by what they experience during what’s now called the ‘sensitive period,’ from about 3 to 14 weeks of age,” says trainer and family dog mediator Kathy Callahan.

When to Start Crate Training

It would be wonderful if your breeder got your pup used to a crate before you got him, beginning at 4 weeks of age. But not all of us have that luxury. The younger the dog is, the easier it is for him to become accustomed to a crate. However, most dogs, of any age, can be persuaded to think of their crate as their den. With the help of treats, stuffed Kongs, and patience, a dog can learn that a crate is a place of peace, quiet, and safety. Make sure you do your research on crate training as some mistakes are not easy to fix. For more information on crate training, read “Crate Training to Keep Your Dog Content.”

When to Start Potty Training

I start potty training my puppies as soon as I get them home, whether it be 10 weeks or 10 months. Only they don’t know they are being potty trained. They only know that they are getting a tiny treat and lots of praise when they go potty outside, which encourages them to do the same next time.

The younger the puppy, the more frequently he will have to go out. Rush him outside when he wakes up from a nap, shortly after a big drink of water, after meals, and after playtime. I would not consider a puppy housebroken until he has learned to tell you he has to relieve himself. Some dogs “get it” at a very young age. Others, well, it can take till their 6 months old or even later. It’s up to you to be patient and consistent.

Walking on a leash, sit, and down training: Basic lessons are learned from day 1, whether it be the 10-week-old pup you just picked up from a breeder, a 6-month-old that you’ve adopted, or an older rescue whose life you saved. Dogs of any age appreciate praise, treats, and toys. This positive reinforcement will encourage them to repeat that performance. It can be very helpful to sign up for a puppy class and work with a trainer who can advise you and help with problems that might appear during your puppies training.

Be careful that you do not teach undesirable behavior unintentionally. For instance, if you are practicing a “stay,” did you forget about that stay when you answered the phone? If you are teaching your dog not to jump, do you allow the neighbor to praise him when he jumps up to greet her?

Enjoy that new pup of yours. Just remember that living with a trained, housebroken dog with an off switch is much more enjoyable than one that is not.

The post What’s a Puppy Training Schedule? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

First, it’s worth noting that puppy proofing is something of a moving target. Your puppy’s interests and ability to reach things will change as he grows. Ideally, you’ll also be balancing out his trouble-finding tendencies by teaching him good house manners, providing him with acceptable things to chew on, and training cues such as ‘leave it’.

How to Puppy Proof Your House

Keeping your puppy safe—and household destruction to a minimum—starts before the puppy joins the family. Prior to his arrival, you will need to take a close look at the areas of your house your puppy will have access to and remove as many potential problems as possible. When assessing a space for puppy-friendliness, I often sit or lay down on the floor to better spot anything that might appear interesting from a dog’s eye level. Among the things I watch for are:

• Electrical cords and outlets: Beyond the obvious potential for electrocution, puppies can pull heavy objects—such as the television—down on themselves by tugging on electrical cords. Get outlet covers to protect any unused outlets from moist puppy noses and tie up or cover cords. You’ll also want to keep the puppy away from rooms where cords can’t be adequately protected.
• Plants: Many common household plants are poisonous to dogs. Even for the varieties that aren’t toxic, puppy teeth can make short work of a houseplant. It’s best to make sure any indoor plants are out of reach and that any dead leaves won’t fall somewhere the puppy can get to them.
• Cleaning products and other chemicals: Household cleaning products are often toxic to dogs. Make sure cleaners and other chemicals are out of reach—preferably in a drawer, cabinet, or closeable container the puppy won’t have access to. It’s rare, but some puppies do teach themselves how to open cabinet doors (I’ve had one.). If you see your puppy pawing at or mouthing doorknobs, it may be time to install child safety locks on cabinet doors and drawers.
• Shoes and clothing: Is there anything more iconic than a puppy chewing a shoe? Sadly, there’s more than an ounce of reality in that image. Make sure shoes—along with socks, hats, and any other loose clothing—are kept out of reach of curious puppies.
• Stairs: Like human toddlers, puppies take awhile to develop the coordination and strength necessary for safely going up and down stairs. Ensure the puppy doesn’t have access to stairs until he and you are ready. Baby gates are an inexpensive and useful tool for keeping young dogs away from stairs and out of rooms that might not be safe for them.
• Wicker, wood, and furniture: While it’s rarely worth moving the furniture around when puppy proofing, ask yourself if there are any pieces you will be upset about having teeth marks in. Move those to somewhere the puppy won’t have access to or don’t let the puppy in the same room without supervision. I’ve also found that anything made of wicker can be particularly appealing to puppies.
• Toys and small objects: Children’s toys, knickknacks, and other small objects can be choking hazards for puppies or, if swallowed, may lead to potentially deadly intestinal blockages. Anything that falls into this category should be removed from areas where your puppy will be spending time.
• Food: If it is food—or might be mistaken for food—chances are good that your puppy will try to eat it. Store dry goods out of reach and make sure pantry and cupboard doors shut firmly. If necessary, invest in child safety locks.
• Trashcans: Trashcans are often a source of exciting, smelly, off-limits things. Don’t fool yourself into believing that a trashcan with a lid is the answer. Many determined puppies develop strategies for opening lids—or knocking over bins—to get what they want. Invest in a trashcan with a locking lid or move trashcans to a spot the puppy can’t get to.
• Books: I’ve had several puppies who liked to take books off of bookshelves for use as chew toys. If your puppy shows an inclination toward exploring shelves, you may need to clear off any shelf he can reach, revoke his access to rooms with a lot of stuff on the shelves until he is more mature and better trained, or cover lower shelves with something like plywood so he can’t get to them.
• Valuables: Like kids’ toys, small items with interesting textures, such as jewelry and eyeglasses, are a favorite for many puppies. That goes double if it is something you wear regularly enough that it smells like you. Make sure these things are stored somewhere out of reach and start reminding yourself early not to casually set your glasses down on the coffee table.

Other Considerations

I have learned the hard way that “high up” doesn’t necessarily mean “safe from the puppy.” When it comes to things on countertops, assume your puppy will attempt to investigate any surface he can reach. During a growth spurt, especially for a large breed youngster, that level can get higher quickly. Some puppies, even very young, very tiny ones, can climb quite high if the idea strikes them. Keep a close eye to see if you need to clear the countertops of anything dangerous or important to you (keys, coins, jewelry, paperwork, etc.).

Once you are done securing all of the spaces your puppy will have access to, ask yourself what might happen if he slips past someone and gets into a room where he’s not allowed. Is there anything immediately hazardous—such as chemicals—that he could grab before you can get to him? Also, is there anything of value that he might damage in a burst of puppy enthusiasm at finding a new place to play? It’s best to assume the worst and do some basic puppy proofing even in rooms you aren’t planning on letting him visit until he’s had some training.

While separate from puppy proofing, there are two things I do with my new puppies that go a long way toward keeping them safe in the house until they’re well-trained enough to be trustworthy. The first is crate training. Teaching a puppy to be comfortable in a crate means there is always a safe spot she can go when I can’t keep both eyes on her. Second, I often use a leash or tether to keep my new puppies close to me. This gives the puppy some freedom but doesn’t let her get so far away that I can’t see what she’s doing.

For more tips on how to prepare for a new puppy, see “What to Know as a First Time Dog Owner.”

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Potty training is actually more about training you than it is about training your puppy. You have two goals:

1. Read your puppy’s body language so you know when she needs to go outside.
2. Be proactive to prevent accidents from happening in the first place so that your puppy quickly develops good habits.

Understanding Your Puppy’s Needs

Young puppies have very small bladders and are still developing muscle tone. Because of this, when they need to go, they go! And this happens frequently.

Puppies naturally want to keep their living space clean. However, for a puppy, your house is a big place. It will take time for your puppy to understand that first an entire room and then the whole house counts as their living space.

Key times that puppies frequently need to pee or poop include:

• After naps
• After meals
• When a play session starts to wind down

Your puppy is already able to tell you when he needs to pee or poop. The trick is you learning to recognize his signals, and then over time improving your communication with each other.

A Crate is Your Best Friend

Crates are the very best tool when house training a puppy. Even if you don’t intend to use a crate frequently throughout your dog’s life, crate training is a life skill that every dog should have for both their peace of mind and ours, and it makes house training much easier!

Choose a crate that is big enough for your puppy to comfortably lie down, but not much bigger. For large-breed puppies, you will need to increase the size of the crate as your puppy grows (some crates come with a divider so you can change up the space your puppy has over time). Why the small size? If your puppy has a large space at his disposal, it is very easy for him to choose one section of the area as his napping and playing space, and another corner as the peeing and pooping spot. Not what you want. You want the crate to be small enough that your puppy prefers to not pee or poop in there.

The crate should have a blanket or bed that is appropriate for the climate, and a couple of toys that your puppy can play with. I recommend feeding meals in the crate to help make it a positive place for your puppy.

Using a Crate at Night

Place the crate right next to your bed. This way your puppy knows you are close by, and you can even reach down with your hand for him to nuzzle. The other plus to having your puppy close is you can hear any fussing.

If your puppy wakes up in the middle of the night and needs to pee, he will fuss rather than make a mess in his crate. For some puppies this is just a little whining, while others may bark or scream. When you hear your puppy fussing, quickly either carry him outside or encourage him to run to the door and yard. Place him in the grass and praise when he pees or poops.

Once done with your little bathroom break, place your puppy back in his crate with a treat and go back to bed.

Tips:

• The first couple nights home with a new puppy may be challenging. This is normal, and your puppy will settle in to his new routine.
• Use a treat that takes a couple minutes to chew as a bedtime snack. This helps to encourage your puppy to settle down and calms him at bedtime.
• No playtime during midnight pee breaks. Some older puppies may try waking you up for a game of tug or chase—don’t give in. The rule is that when your puppy fusses, he gets a trip outside for a short walk, then back to bed.
• Stay calm, even when you’re exhausted (we’ve all been there). Your puppy is learning and growing, and these things can take time.

Using a Crate During the Day

As much as you are able, you will want to be watching your puppy directly and interacting with him (more on that later). But this is not always possible. Whether you are getting some work done, making dinner, running errands, or taking a nap, the crate will help you maintain house training criteria when you can’t be watching your pup every minute.

Set the crate up somewhere that you can hear and/or see your puppy. Give your puppy a treat or toy when putting him in the crate so he has something to do. Take him out for regular bathroom breaks—with puppies 8-12 weeks old, I like to do this every hour if possible. It can feel excessive, but bringing your puppy outside frequently gives him lots of opportunities to take care of business, reducing the risk of accidents in the house.

Listen for signs that your puppy is waking up from a nap or getting fussy, as these indicate that it is time to go outside.

As your puppy gets older and you get a feel for his schedule and bladder strength, you can gradually increase the amount of time between bathroom breaks. A general rule of thumb is that puppies can go one hour for each month of age—for example, a five-month-old puppy can go five hours without peeing. But this can vary between individual puppies.

Learn Your Puppy’s Signals

When you are able to keep an eye on your puppy, she can roam more freely. But remember your two goals—reading your puppy’s body language and being proactive to set your puppy up for success and prevent accidents.

Every puppy communicates in their own way, but there are common signals that a puppy needs a trip outside. Watch your puppy for one or more of these behaviors:

• Circling
• Wandering away from play
• Whining

If you see your puppy do one of these things or notice any other sudden change in behavior, take her outside to see if she needs to go.

When in Doubt—Go Out!

False alarms can be frustrating, but it is much better to take your puppy out when she doesn’t really need it than to cause her to have an accident.

Over time, your puppy will learn that she has the ability to “make” you take her outside. By responding to her subtle signals that she needs to pee or poop, you are giving those signals value and strengthening them over time.

One of my dogs has a particular whine and pace that he does when he really needs to go out. Another stares at me like she’s trying to fry my brains with her laser eyes. And the third gets my attention and then leads me to the door to ask to go out (yes, she has spoiled me!).

Praise for Good Habits

Praise and reward your puppy for peeing and pooping outside. Tell her what a brilliant and perfect puppy she is, and pet her or give her a treat. You can also play a little after she eliminates outside.

You are trying to build the pattern for her that the urge to eliminate means it is time to go outside, which is a really good thing!

How Long Does It Take to Potty Train a Puppy?

Six months of age is a rough ballpark for when your puppy should be fully housetrained. That said, some puppies are house trained as early as four months, while others may take a full year.

Young puppies will take longer to house train, while older puppies generally catch on quicker (plus they have better bladder control).

Small and toy breed puppies tend to take longer to house train because of their tiny bladders and small size.

Your puppy’s upbringing before coming to your house will also impact house training. If your puppy was in a really messy situation, he may not value cleanliness at first. And if your puppy has only eliminated on cement in a kennel run, he may be confused about the new rules about needing to eliminate on grass. Be patient.

How Long Can a Puppy Go Without Peeing?

As stated above, the general rule of thumb is that a puppy can go one hour for each month of age. So a three-month-old puppy can go three hours, a six-month-old puppy can go six hours, etc.

This can vary based on your individual puppy’s bladder strength and any extenuating factors, such as drinking a bunch of water after playing.

Overnight is the exception. Most 8-week-old puppies are capable of sleeping through the night but may not always, so keep the crate close so you will hear your puppy fuss if she needs to go out. But you do not need to set alarms every two hours for walks—as long as your puppy is resting, you can too.

Handling Long Stretches Between Walks

Despite our best efforts, sometimes we can’t stick to our puppy’s ideal potty break schedule. In these situations, set your puppy up with a larger space and a couple of pee pads to provide an okay place to go if she needs to.

Accidents Happen

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No matter how awesome of a puppy mom or dad you are, sooner or later you’re going to slip up and your puppy will have an accident in the house. It’s okay! Here are some things to keep in mind:

• Your puppy isn’t a bad puppy. Poop (and pee) happens.
• Yelling won’t help. Your puppy has no idea why you’re yelling—all she knows is that you are being really scary.
• If you catch your puppy in the act, scoop her up and rush her outside, then praise for finishing the job in the yard.
• Try to identify what “went wrong.” Maybe your puppy stood up in a funny way and you weren’t quite sure it meant she needed to pee. Maybe you got too caught up in the World Cup and forgot that it was time for a trip outside.
• Nature’s Miracle is great stuff, and safe on most rugs and carpets. Clean messes up thoroughly using an enzymatic cleaner so that the area doesn’t have a residual smell.

Be patient with both your puppy and yourself through house training. Potty training a puppy is a process—you’ve got two different species learning to communicate with each other, and one of those beings is growing rapidly and having to relearn her body on a weekly basis.

If you stay consistent about taking your puppy outside frequently to set her up for success, praise for eliminating outside, and use a crate to help when your attention needs to be elsewhere, you and your puppy will get there!

Additional Tips

• Use baby gates or exercise pens to create smaller sections in your house. This gives your puppy a little more freedom during the day, but still keeps her partially confined and limits how far away from you she can get.
• Ask your puppy’s breeder if they litter box training the puppies or what material they used in the puppies’ bathroom area. For example, if your puppy is used to eliminating on wood chips, placing some wood chips in your yard can help clue your puppy in to that area being the designated bathroom spot.
• When taking a shower, bring your puppy in the bathroom! This can be a fun alternative to going in the crate, and keeps your puppy close enough you can make sure she isn’t getting into trouble.
• Housetraining will take longer if your puppy was raised in unsanitary conditions. Be proactive and take these puppies outside as often as possible so you can minimize accidents and maximize opportunities to praise for eliminating outside.
• Housetraining can take longer for small and toy breed puppies. These guys are just so little that they can’t fathom why it is a problem to poop in a corner of the living room—and their tiny bladders don’t help either. Be proactive about taking these puppies outside frequently, and use crates and baby gates to limit your puppy’s space when you can’t watch her closely.
• If your puppy had been doing well with housetraining but is suddenly peeing in the house frequently, take a urine sample to your veterinarian to have it checked for a UTI.
• If your puppy has diarrhea for more than 24 hours or if at any point she is both vomiting and having diarrhea, call your veterinarian. Puppies can get dehydrated rapidly and she may need medical care.

The post How to House Train a Puppy appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Puppies are a lot of work. Housetraining, frequent meals, teaching household manners and basic life skills, midnight pee breaks. It’s seemingly endless! These little guys are learning how to be real dogs and how they fit into our world, plus coping with the changes that come with growth and maturity. As the owner of a puppy, you are that puppy’s guide on this journey.

If you’re trying to raise more than one puppy at once, it’s easy to fall short on providing enough guidance. If each of the puppies isn’t getting all the attention, socialization, and training that they need, they can become dependent on a sibling and develop a wide variety of behavioral issues.

Littermate Syndrome Is Not a Disorder

Veterinary behaviorists do not recognize littermate syndrome as a disorder because it isn’t the presence of a littermate that causes the issues. Instead, these dogs’ behavioral problems are the result of insufficient socialization and enrichment. We can even see these problems in puppies who were raised by themselves and not given the support and training they need.

Puppies who don’t get proper socialization and training may show aggression, fear, separation anxiety, and lack of trust. None of these things are fun to deal with.

It is possible to raise two littermates—or two unrelated puppies that are the same age—at the same time and do it well. The key is to embrace each puppy as an individual and recognize that each one may have unique needs as they grow up.

Socialization

Socialization is the process of safely exposing your puppy to a wide range of people, places, and things so that she can be a confident adult dog.

Children are socialized by bringing them along to stores, parks, restaurants, and other people’s houses. We can do many of the same things with our puppies. Allow your puppy to observe the world and experience places and situations that will be part of her life.

It is critical that each puppy gets individual socialization outings, without their sibling. Each puppy may have different tolerance levels for new places and things, so you will need to adjust their experiences accordingly. During socialization, you want your puppy to always feel safe, so that she trusts that new things are usually fine and that you will never put her in a situation that she can’t handle. She needs to learn how to navigate the world on her own.

For example, some puppies might love greeting groups of people from the get-go. Other puppies might be more comfortable with one-on-one greetings with strangers at first. If one puppy is sensitive to loud noises, you will want to keep her farther away from things like construction zones so that she can take in the scary sounds at a distance where she is still relaxed.

Housetraining

Just because two puppies are littermates doesn’t mean that they will housetrain at the same rate. Remember that a large part of housetraining is us learning to read our puppy’s body language and understand when she is telling us that she needs to go outside. If you are raising two puppies, you will need to keep an eye on both and learn their individual signals.

Enrichment and Training

Both puppies need to learn things like sit, down, wait, coming when called, and to walk on a leash. You might be able to train both puppies at once sometimes, but it is usually best to give each puppy individual training time. This helps to foster your bond with each puppy and minimizes confusion as they learn new things.

It can be easier to teach puppies to walk nicely on a leash one at a time. If they are together, they are more likely to bounce and play, egging each other on and causing more pulling. Set a good foundation of leash manners individually, then practice group walks.

When doing play or enrichment activities with your puppies, be sure that each one is getting their fair share of fun and attention. Sometimes one puppy likes to hog the toys, or each puppy prefers different games. Foster each puppy’s unique preferences and have individual play sessions to improve your bond and learn more about each puppy’s personality.

The post What is Littermate Syndrome in Dogs? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

How Do Dogs Get Canine Herpesvirus?

Canine herpesvirus is transmitted between dogs and puppies through direct contact with ocular, nasal, oral, or vaginal secretions. Nose-to-nose contact and sexual transmission are the usual routes of infection. This virus does not survive long in the environment and is easily killed by disinfectants.

After the initial infection, dogs become carriers of canine herpesvirus for life. They may experience periods of recrudescence (shedding of the virus). These dogs can transmit the virus to other dogs and puppies when they are actively shedding the virus in their tears or other secretions.

Puppies Are Extremely Susceptible

A pregnant dog that is exposed to canine herpesvirus in the last three weeks of her pregnancy may transmit the virus to her unborn puppies. These puppies may be delivered stillborn. Puppies that are born alive will often die within the first few days of life.

Puppies that are exposed to canine herpesvirus in the first three weeks of life are the most likely to die from this disease. Canine herpesvirus is able to replicate rapidly in a puppy whose body temperature is cool (about 95 degrees Fahrenheit).

Puppies younger than three weeks of age are unable to maintain their own body temperature. They rely on their mother, the additive warmth of their litter mates, and a warm cozy environment to maintain a normal body temperature between 96 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Puppies less than three weeks old that are not kept sufficiently warm are at the highest risk of dying from canine herpesvirus.

Symptoms of Canine Herpesvirus

Puppies younger than three weeks of age may develop a bloated belly, difficulty breathing, weakness, and be cool to the touch. This illness is painful and they will cry inconsolably. Death comes quickly, usually within 24-48 hours of becoming ill.

Adult dogs and puppies older than three weeks of age may develop signs of an upper respiratory infection, including coughing, sneezing, and nasal discharge. Signs of conjunctivitis—such as teary eyes, green or yellow ocular discharge, squinting, or corneal ulcers—may also develop. Blisters on the vulva of female dogs or the prepuce of male dogs may be observed.

Symptoms in adult dogs are typically mild and resolve without complications. Puppies older than three weeks of age may see their upper respiratory symptoms progress into a potentially life-threatening bronchopneumonia. Adult dogs that have been exposed to other viral or bacterial infections at the same time may also develop bronchopneumonia that can become serious or fatal.

Some adult dogs may become infected with canine herpesvirus but are asymptomatic. This means that they have no symptoms of illness when they become infected.

Survivors of canine herpesvirus will become carriers of the virus for life. The virus hides and lies dormant in the trigeminal nerve of the face and in lymph nodes and salivary glands. Viral replication and shedding will begin during periods of stress or illness—this is called recrudescence. Dogs that are receiving immunosuppressive doses of prednisone may also begin shedding the virus.

Carrier dogs that are experiencing recrudescence may squint one or both eyes and have increased tear production. They may sneeze and have nasal discharge. Some may develop corneal ulcers. And then there are dogs that are actively shedding the virus but have no symptoms at all!

Any dog that is actively shedding the virus can transmit canine herpesvirus to puppies and other dogs. This includes dogs that are showing symptoms of canine herpesvirus, dogs that are acutely infected but asymptomatic, and carrier dogs that are actively shedding the virus in their oral, nasal, and ocular secretions.

Diagnosis

Canine herpesvirus can be diagnosed with a simple blood test. A blood sample from your dog can be submitted to an outside laboratory for a PCR test. It can take several days to run this test, so your veterinarian may begin treatment for canine herpesvirus before knowing the results of the test.

A puppy that dies acutely for an unknown reason can undergo a necropsy to help determine the cause of death. A necropsy is like an autopsy, but for animals instead of people. Samples from the puppy’s organs can be tested for canine herpesvirus and other infectious diseases.

Treatment for Young Puppies

Treatment for puppies less than three weeks of age that become ill with canine herpesvirus is typically unsuccessful with a nearly 100% fatality rate. The following interventions may be able to save the remaining puppies in a litter that have not yet become ill:

• Keep all of the puppies warm with a body temperature between 96 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. You can achieve this by making sure their environment stays a toasty 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the first 4 days of life. The ambient temperature can be gradually lowered to 80 degrees Fahrenheit by 7 to 10 days of age and then gradually to 72 degrees by the start of the fifth week of life. Keeping them warm will lower the replication rate of the virus inside their bodies. Use warming devices made for puppies, such as incubators or heat lamps. Do not use heating pads made for people as this may cause thermal burns.
• Serum from an adult dog that has antibodies against canine herpesvirus can be administered to each puppy. This provides them with antibodies that can fight a canine herpesvirus infection.
• There is limited evidence that antiviral medications—such as famciclovir and acyclovir—are effective against canine herpesvirus. Not much is known about effective dosages and potential adverse effects of these medications. Use them with caution and only under the direction of a veterinarian.

Treatment for Dogs and Older Puppies

Treatment for dogs and puppies older than three weeks of age is largely supportive. Symptoms and complications are treated as necessary. Dogs and puppies with corneal ulcers caused by canine herpesvirus may benefit from ophthalmic antiviral medications, such as idoxuridine, trifluridine, or cidofovir.

Prevention

Canine herpesvirus is easily transmitted between dogs and rarely causes serious illness in adult dogs and mature puppies. The only way to truly prevent your dog from getting canine herpesvirus is for your dog to never have contact with other dogs. This is just not possible nor advisable.

Prevention tactics are aimed at the most vulnerable of our population—young puppies and puppies not yet born. Pregnant dogs should be isolated from other dogs in the last three weeks of their pregnancy. Puppies and their mothers should be isolated from other dogs in the first three weeks following whelping.

There is no vaccine for canine herpesvirus currently available in the United States. A vaccine has been available in Europe since 2001.

The post Can Dogs Get Herpes? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

1. He has had major life changes. He is leaving the only home he has known, leaving his canine family, and moving to a new place with new people and maybe new animal friends. Diarrhea is a common stress reaction. Hold off on friends visiting your new puppy. Give him some time to settle in with quiet time and rest.
2. Diet change. Most breeders send you home with a bag of the same food your pup has been eating. Stick with that food to start and go slow on treats (treat with the puppy’s kibble!). If you wish to change to a different food or diet plan, do it gradually.
3. Parasites and illnesses. Anytime a dog has diarrhea, but especially with a puppy, parasites and illnesses need to be considered. Even if your breeder or rescue has dewormed him, take a fecal sample into your veterinarian. Better safe than sorry. Parasites like Giardia and coccidia can be missed with just one check or treatment.

When to Worry With Puppy Diarrhea

If the diarrhea is accompanied by vomiting, any blood in the stool, and signs of sickness such as a fever, lethargy, and not eating, your pup needs to be seen by your veterinarian. Puppies can dehydrate quickly, especially toy breed puppies who are susceptible to hypoglycemia – low blood sugar – as well.

If your puppy has diarrhea but is still playful and otherwise going gangbusters with some soft stool, you may be able to manage this at home with some care and careful observation:

1. Keep him clean. The hardest problem with a playful, active pup with diarrhea is keeping him clean. Change bedding frequently and rinse off his rear and feet in the sink or the bathtub with warm water.
2. Be sure he is hydrated. Make sure your pup is drinking. Dehydration is always a concern with a puppy with diarrhea. You can add a little electrolyte solution such as Pedialyte to his water, if needed.
3. What to feed a puppy with diarrhea. Stick to bland food and skip the treats for now. A chicken and rice food or home-cooked plain (no seasonings) chicken breast and plain white rice are easy to digest. Canned mackerel is easy on the system. Add a small amount of plain canned pumpkin (not the pie version, which contains spices!) to help firm up stools. If stools don’t start to firm up in 24 to 36 hours, a veterinary visit is in order.

The post Why Does My Puppy Have Diarrhea? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

These days, there are an overwhelming number of puppy teething toys to choose from. When selecting toys, safety considerations like size and durability should always come first. It’s also important to get a good variety of toys and pay attention to what types and textures your individual puppy likes best.

Picking Puppy Toys for Teething

There are four main things to keep in mind when finding the right puppy teething toy:

1. Finding a properly sized teething toy for your young dog boils down to how big your puppy is currently and how much he is likely to grow. As with older dogs, chew toys for puppies should never be small enough to swallow. This is especially important as puppies grow rapidly during the same time period they are teething. A toy that was the right size for a 25-pound four-month-old could easily become a choking/swallowing hazard for a 40-pound seven-month-old. Pay attention to how much your puppy has grown and make sure to immediately remove any toys that are getting too small. When in doubt, a larger toy is better than a smaller one.
2. There are a lot of materials to choose from when it comes to puppy teething toys. The biggest consideration here is to find toys pliable enough that a good chew doesn’t risk breaking puppy teeth, which are smaller and more fragile than their adult counterparts. Selecting toys labeled specifically for puppies is generally a good way to go. In addition, it’s worth avoiding raw bones or hard chew toys at least until your puppy’s adult canines have come in. Overall, puppy teething toys should have some give when you squeeze them.
3. With a developing puppy, you may not yet know what kind of chewer you have on your hands. Do you have a delicate nibbler who will be carrying the same stuffy with him until old age or a dedicated chewing machine who will tear the strongest rubber toy to bits in an hour and a half? Buying well-made, sturdy puppy teething toys is a good place to start, but no toy is destruction-proof. Chewing sessions should be monitored and a toy should be swapped out for something more durable if the puppy starts to pull pieces off of it. If you have a heavier chewer, don’t be surprised if anything designed for less enthusiastic chewing isn’t suitable for him.
4. Pay attention to what kind of texture your puppy prefers. Some like soft plush toys for teething while others would rather have something more substantial to sink their teeth into. Finding a texture that appeals to a puppy can keep them from going in search of something he likes better such as your shoes or his human sibling’s favorite stuffed bunny.

Good Options for Puppy Teething Toys

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What kinds of toys meet these criteria? As it turns out, there are quite a few. Here are three of our favorites:

• Kong Puppy Chew Dog Toy: Kong makes puppy-specific versions that stand up well to some serious chewing but are still squishy enough that breaking puppy teeth is unlikely. There are a variety of sizes and they can be stuffed with different foods and treats for long-lasting play. It can also be frozen to provide additional relief for sore gums.
• Nylabone Teething Ring Puppy Chew Toy: This toy comes flavored and can be frozen. The texture can help stimulate the gums and relieve some of the pain and pressure of new teeth breaking through. The unique shape can help your puppy reach their back teeth.
• Booda Multi Color 2-Knot Rope Bone Dog Toy: A well-made rope toy is also good to try with teething puppies. The texture gives them something to sink their teeth into and the material will stand up to some heavy chewing—not to mention it makes for some good games of tug and chase. This product has five different sizes and a variety of colors. It’s also machine washable.

In addition, plush toys are a favorite of many young dogs. The soft material can be comforting and is often easier to chew when puppy teeth are loose and too much pressure on them can hurt. The caveat is that plush toys are the least likely to stand up to chewing. If the fabric gets too worn or stuffing starts to fly, it’s time for a different toy.

While not a puppy teething toy in the traditional sense, fresh carrots can serve the same purpose. Pick a carrot that is big enough that the puppy won’t be able to swallow it whole then wash, peel and cut the ends off of it. From there, the carrot can be given to the puppy raw, lightly steamed, or frozen depending on the dog’s preference. Keep an eye out. You should take it away before it gets small enough to be a choking hazard. However, the remains can be cut into bite-sized bits that can be used as training treats or added to a meal.

The post How to Choose the Best Puppy Teething Toys appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Typically, when a puppy needs a complicated harness put on, muddy paws wiped off, or an ear cleaned out, we humans tend to just hold him still and do it. We don’t bother to slow down and wonder how exactly this new experience feels to the puppy. If we did, we’d realize that this unusual handling – something that does not happen naturally on Planet Dog – may make our puppy anywhere from uncomfortable to downright frightened.

Think I’m being overly sensitive? Think the puppy just has to cope? Well, sure. The little puppy does just have to cope, because we can manhandle him at this point. But someday he’ll be an adult, with a strong jaw and teeth capable of damage. That’s when it becomes crystal clear that it would have been smart to teach him that all of this handling is nothing to be anxious or defensive about.

I recommend making a plan to teach your puppy to enjoy human touch as much as possible. By intentionally creating a strongly positive association with body handling, you’ll make your own life easier while setting the stage for less stressful (and cheaper!) handling at the vet or the groomer. The first step is to learn how and where he naturally likes to be touched.

What Kind of Touch Does Your Puppy Like?

Have you ever gotten a massage that you hated? Maybe it was too hard, too soft, too fast, too variable, or too much in one spot. We all have our preferences – and so do our dogs. But people often miss dogs’ subtle reactions and continue petting even as a dog flinches away. Alas, that dog may be learning she has to advocate more clearly, perhaps with her teeth, later on.

Let’s avoid that! Instead, look hard for those body language clues, and use that information to adjust your style. Is the puppy leaning into the touch, or looking away and pulling out of reach? As a starting point, keep in mind that most dogs prefer slow, consistent strokes with gentle pressure. (Without realizing this, many people seem to go for frenzied, hard patting, or light feathery touches – both of which seem to bug many dogs.) As for location, many dogs lean into butt scratches but shift away from head pats.

The bottom line: Become a connoisseur of your puppy’s favorite way of being touched. Help guide other family members and friends in her orbit: “Oh, hey, you know what she really likes? Watch this.” Soon you have a puppy trotting happily over to people rather than scooting away from outreached hands. This is huge, folks. Take time with this wonderful step that can pay off in a friendly puppy who looks forward to engagement.

This consent-based approach to petting goes for picking up, too. It is hard to resist picking up a cute puppy all the time, but try, especially at first. Some puppies sadly learn to flee from their family members (or growl at them) because they know they’ll soon be trapped in somebody’s arms! Take the time to let the pup choose and soon you may have a pup who does indeed love being picked up. (See “How to Pick Up a Puppy,” May 2022.)

Gently, Gradually Handle Feet, Ears, Mouth

Once you’ve learned how to create a great petting experience for your particular puppy, it’s time to slowly push the envelope. Obviously, vets and groomers need good access to a dog’s ears, eyes, mouth, and feet – all of which are often no-go zones at first from a dog’s perspective. You can work to change that. Here’s how to begin:

• Create a daily practice of finding your pup when he’s sleepy and calm – maybe it’s while you’re watching TV at night – and giving the kind of massage session you’ve learned that he enjoys.
• As he relaxes, experiment with gently touching the ears for just a second . . . then quickly go back to regular massage. If there is little or no reaction, go ahead and increase that ear duration to a few seconds. Still OK? Then go ahead and incorporate ear massage into your regular daily massage session.
• Slowly, as the days and weeks go on, repeat this process for mouth/teeth, eye area, and feet. Don’t get ahead of yourself; if you try to make too much “progress,” you may ruin your lovely massage tradition! Ideally you can get to a place where the daily massage is a time to  deepen the lesson  that it’s actually quite fine to be touched in all of those tricky places.
• Once things are going that well, experiment with being even more invasive. Rather than just touching or massaging, go ahead and look in that ear for a second, or lift up that gum to examine the teeth for a moment. Whenever you take a step forward like that, quickly go back to calming massage before pup even has a chance to think about it. This is a classic go-slow-to-go-fast situation. If you rush into doing a full pretend exam, you may set back the all-important level of trust.

Trouble? Add Treats & Verbal Narration

Above I’ve outlined how to proceed if your pup calmly accepts each new level of handling. But what if he doesn’t? Most dogs have at least one fairly sensitive spot. What if, when you lightly touch a finger to their paw, they yank it away every time?

That’s when I bring in treats for some counter conditioning. I personally don’t start with food because sometimes it creates a level of excitement that interferes with progress. However, sometimes I clearly need some help. Cheese to the rescue!

Actually, cheese and Mr. Rogers. When dogs are nervous about things, I rely on the “Mr. Rogers Hack” from the Family Dog Mediation course presented by trainer Kim Brophey, CPDT-KA, CDBC. Since dogs have the receptive verbal ability of a human toddler, it is incredibly effective to use our words to help them better anticipate what’s next. So in this case I grab a tiny bite of cheddar, and say, “It’s OK, I’m just going to touch your paw.” The second after the smallest of touches, I pop the cheddar in the puppy’s mouth. At first the pup has no idea what those words mean, but soon they come to convey that a delicious treat will follow an innocuous paw touch. I repeat that until – ideally – I have a puppy who can’t wait to come running when I say I want to touch his paw. It becomes a game.

Getting Comfortable with Grooming

We humans are pretty obsessed with having perfectly clean dogs. Your dog will thank you to remember that that is not actually a dog thing. Eighty percent of the dogs in the world are free-roaming, not pets, and in that natural state they don’t get bathed, brushed, and clipped. And yet we somehow expect our dogs to immediately and fully tolerate brushes, clippers, and lengthy baths with strongly scented shampoo.

That’s why part of your body handling exercises must include the equipment and locations involved in whatever grooming process will be a part of your dog’s life. Show your puppy the brush/clipper/Dremel with Mr. Rogers’ help: “Oh, it’s OK! That’s just a brush!” followed by a nibble of turkey. A few days later, once puppy eagerly approaches the tool thanks to that positive association, experiment with a light touch from the brush, more narration, and a treat. Just remember: Great dog training is often boring because it involves so much repetition at a slow pace. Accepting that truth pays off in the end!

If you’re going to be using a groomer, find one who talks your ear off about how important the first visit is. If she suggests starting with a “fun visit” before an actual appointment, be thrilled rather than annoyed. A groomer who understands it’s critical to help the puppy feel calm is a keeper. (The wrong groomer can do all sorts of harm in terms of setting back your puppy’s trust regarding human handling.)

Prepare Your Pup for Vet Visits

Now it’s time to play doctor with your puppy! Once you’ve gotten your pup into the swing of intentional body handling that goes beyond simple cuddles, it’s time to work a one-minute pretend veterinary appointment into your days.

Using the same incremental, short-duration process (alternating challenging new handling with well-liked kinds of touch, treats, or play), mimic a vet appointment. Do a quick narrated restraint – “It’s OK! I’m just going to hold you for a sec!” – followed by a happy congratulations and a toy or a treat. Then a little ear check, a pretend vaccination, a glance at a tooth, and then check out with a big celebration. Repeat, repeat, repeat until your puppy knows the words that you can then use at her next appointment about checking ears, checking teeth, etc.

Note that you can go well beyond this into the wonderful practice of cooperative care, but that’s beyond the scope of today’s topic. For now, simply make a point of remembering to give your pup the chance to experience all of these unusual ways of being handled to the point that they no longer feel unusual.

The #1 Rule: Maintain your Puppy’s Trust

The first priority for every puppy owner should be establishing the fact that they are their puppy’s rock, their trusted guide here on perplexing Planet Human. Happily, there is a way to do these body handling exercises that truly supports that goal. If you go slowly enough, make a point of making each session 95% beloved touch style, and just 5% new experimenting sandwiched in there, in the end you are simply building trust and connection with every session.

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