Keep in mind that grooming costs can vary widely depending on factors such as:

• Your dog’s breed, size, and coat type
• Your location (regional area, city, suburbs, rural)
• Your groomer’s training, experience, equipment, and grooming facility
• Your dog’s coat condition and previous grooming experience

How Much Dog Grooming Costs on Average

Basic grooming sessions usually include a bath and brush-out, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and a simple haircut or trim. Based on size, nationwide averages for these basic dog grooming services are:

• $30 to $50 for small dogs (up to 20 pounds)
• $50 to $80 for medium-sized dogs (20 to 50 pounds)
• $80 to $120 for large dogs (50 to 80 pounds)
• $120 to $200 for giant breeds (over 80 pounds)

More extensive dog grooming services include a deep-cleaning bath, detailed haircut, anal gland expression, teeth brushing, or other specialized treatments. Comprehensive grooming packages average:

• $50 to $80 for small dogs
• $80 to $110 for medium-sized dogs
• $110 to $150 for large dogs
• $150 to $250 for giant breeds

Special dog grooming services add additional fees to basic prices. Examples include:

• De-matting treatments that remove snarls, tangles, and mats ($10 to $100 extra depending on the coat’s condition)
• Flea baths and flea treatments ($10 to $45 extra)
• Medicated baths or specialized skin treatments ($15 to $45 extra)
• Shed-control treatments (price depends on size and coat)
• Stand-alone nail trims, which can often be done on a drop-in basis for an average fee of $15.

When to Go to a Professional Groomer

Professional grooming is most important when your dog has a complex coat, you don’t have time to perform thorough at-home grooming, or your dog has a skin condition that requires specialized care.

Keep in mind that prices vary by region. In general, grooming prices are highest in large cities and lower in rural areas. In addition, mobile groomers, who come to your home, are more expensive than groomers who work in salons. In the end, everything depends on supply (the number of qualified, experienced groomers and the services they offer) and demand (the number of dogs and owners needing their attention). For accurate estimates in your area, contact local groomers and grooming salons.

Grooming Factors to Consider When Getting a Dog

If you are shopping for a dog or planning to adopt one, start with an understanding of the different breeds’ grooming requirements. If you don’t enjoy brushing dogs (for some breeds it’s a daily requirement) or if you can’t afford frequent visits to groomers, think twice about living with a dog with a high-maintenance coat.

For example, Poodles, Shih Tzus, and Afghan Hounds—and mixes with similar coat types—cost from $50 to $200 per grooming session. These dogs often need monthly appointments. Similarly, breeds that are heavy shedders like Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, and German Shepherd Dogs can be expensive to groom when the seasons change. In contrast, short-haired and smooth-coated dogs typically cost $40 to $50 for basic grooming.

How to Reduce Grooming Costs

If you have a puppy or adult dog who isn’t used to professional grooming, start with short training sessions that will help him relax and enjoy the experience. Do this with short, gentle, reward-filled brushing sessions, massage your pup’s paws daily, gently touch his face and head with the back of a spoon or spoon handle (this will help him relax around scissors), set your phone to vibrate and simulate the vibration of clippers, and encourage him to stand still for bathing and brushing.

Ask for meet-and-greet introductions to any groomer you’d like to try. In a few minutes, an experienced groomer can recommend grooming options, explain their fees, answer your questions, and help your dog feel comfortable in the salon.

Your groomer can recommend combs or brushes to use at home, how often to brush your dog, how often to bathe and with what products, and other suggestions for routine maintenance.

If your dog’s coat has tangles and mats, bathing may worsen them and trap moisture on the skin, potentially causing more problems. There is no simple way to remove mats and tangles without shaving the dog, though in some cases they can be picked apart. A professional groomer will know what approach to take.

Why Is Dog Grooming So Expensive?

Dog grooming most closely resembles human hair styling. If you have a favorite hair stylist or barber, you’re likely to schedule regular appointments, tip well, and develop a personal relationship. You respect your stylist’s training, experience, equipment, and efficiency. As groomer Lara Fasekas explains, “Dog grooming can cost more than a human haircut because there’s so much involved. It’s also more physically demanding because groomers have to lift and position dogs of all sizes. Dog grooming equipment has come a long way with the help of innovations that cost money, like belly straps that fasten to the groomer’s wall to keep dogs closer and help them feel safer. Quality scissors and clippers are serious investments, costing hundreds of dollars. In addition, there is a nationwide shortage of experienced groomers, and all of this adds to the cost of grooming.”

The post How Much Does Dog Grooming Cost? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Signs that your dog may have tasted the Christmas tree:

• Excessive drooling
• Shaking head or pawing at mouth
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Irritated mouth
• Not wanting to eat
• Lethargy
• Weakness

Dogs are more likely to experience stomach upset and other issues if they eat a large amount of the Christmas tree (or lick up a bunch of sap). Small dogs are, of course, at higher risk than big dogs.

If the Christmas tree sap or needles irritate your dog’s mouth, even a small amount can cause drooling and other signs of discomfort. This can also happen simply because your dog doesn’t like the taste.

Most mild symptoms should go away quickly. If your dog has diarrhea or is vomiting for more than a day, call your veterinarian to get medications to calm his system down.

The more concerning symptoms are ones that are more severe, such as both vomiting and diarrhea at the same time, muscle weakness, or symptoms that persist over time. Vomiting and diarrhea at the same time is an emergency due to rapid dehydration. If your dog has a poor appetite and doesn’t seem to feel well, he may have an intestinal blockage or perforation from the branches or pine needles. These problems will require surgery.

Pets Drinking Christmas Tree Water

Christmas tree water carries the risk of sap, but it can also contain worse things for your dog. These potentially dangerous toxins include fertilizer and preservatives intended to keep the tree alive longer, as well as bacteria and mold that can build up over time.

Avoid treating your Christmas tree’s water with any fertilizers, and if purchasing your tree off a lot, ask if it has been treated with preservatives. Change the water regularly to prevent buildup of mold and bacteria.

Note: Poinsettias and mistletoe are both toxic holiday hazards for pets.

Are Artificial Trees Safer?

Artificial Christmas trees have some of the same risks if our dogs chew on them. Older fake trees may shed needles, which your dog might eat. Your dog may also choose to chew on the branches. Eating part of an artificial Christmas tree can cause injuries in the mouth and/or an intestinal blockage.

How to Keep Dogs Away from Christmas Trees

Need to keep pets away from your Christmas tree? Try these tips:

• Use a baby gate to keep pets out of the room with the tree
• Use a short decorative fence to keep dogs away from the tree and presents (this will likely not deter cats)
• Place fragile and tempting ornaments (fuzzy animals, balls, candy canes, popcorn strings, etc.) high up on the tree where your dog can’t reach
• Crate your dog in another room when you can’t supervise him around the tree
• Have plenty of fresh water available in the usual locations so your dog isn’t tempted to try to tree water
• Cover the tree water with a tree skirt or other covering
• Anchor the tree so it can’t tip over
• Don’t “invite” your dog to every holiday gathering.

The post Are Christmas Trees Toxic to Dogs? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

And your house is perfect for fleas all year round. Even if the outdoor weather is sufficient to eliminate fleas, every life stage will be nice and cozy in our warm homes that are complete with nooks and crannies to hide and hosts to feed on.

This is why indoor-only pets can get fleas, too. The initial flea might have hitched a ride on another pet or your clothing, or could have traveled from a neighboring apartment. And mice can bring fleas into our homes to infest our pets. And, yes, ticks are active in the winter, too.

The Flea Life Cycle

A flea’s life starts as an egg. Female adult fleas lay their eggs on their hosts and in the surrounding environment, so flea eggs can be both on your dog and in his bed, the carpet, your sofa… you get the picture. Eggs can hatch as soon as one day after being laid if the conditions are right. Other times they might incubate for 10 days before hatching.

When the egg hatches the flea enters the larval stage. Flea larvae live wherever their parents were hanging out, eating their feces (flea dirt) as well as blood. This stage lasts five to 20 days depending on the conditions.

Next the larvae spin protective cocoons and become pupae. Pupae are safe inside their cocoons and can stay like that for months. This is the primary stage that gets dog owners in trouble during the winter! You may think that all the fleas in your yard are dead because of the cold, but the pupae are still there, waiting for a warm day.

The adult flea waits to emerge from the cocoon until both the conditions are favorable, and a host (your dog) is nearby. All it takes is your dog lying in a pile of leaves on a surprise warm day in the middle of January to restart a flea infestation.

From there the adult fleas bite your dog to drink blood, mate, and lay eggs to continue the cycle.

Breaking the Cycle

If you find fleas on one of your pets, you will need to treat all pets in the household and your home itself for three consecutive months to break the cycle. Severe infestations may require longer if you miss some pupae when vacuuming and they hatch after you have stopped treating your dogs.

I usually treat my dogs and cat for fleas year-round. Even residents in the northern United States are seeing more popup days in the winter with temperatures above freezing. My dogs travel with me and attend dog shows, where they could potentially be exposed, and while my cat is primarily indoors, she does hang out on our screened porch. I would much rather prevent a flea infestation than have to try to eradicate one.

The post Do Fleas Die in Winter? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Any time your dog is having difficulty breathing, it is an emergency and she needs veterinary care immediately. For mild allergic reactions, diphenhydramine (Benadryl) may be appropriate.

How Do I Know if My Dog is Having an Allergic Reaction?

Recognizing allergic reactions in dogs depends on what the dog is reacting to. Plants, bugs, household cleaners, and other chemicals are common causes of dog allergic reactions, but food and medications can also cause a reaction.

Dog allergic reaction symptoms include:

• Red, irritated skin
• Hives
• Chronic itchiness
• Sudden increase in itchiness
• Itchy ears
• Chronic ear infections
• Runny eyes
• Runny nose
• Sneezing
• Swelling
• Difficulty breathing (severe)
• Vomiting (severe)
• Diarrhea (severe)
• Pale gums (severe)
• Abnormal heart rate or cardiac arrest (severe)
• Collapse (severe)
• Tremors (severe)

Severe allergic reactions can result in death.

Dogs who are allergic to something that they inhale from the environment or to a food item usually have generalized itchiness and skin irritation. Chronic ear infections are a classic sign of a dog with allergies. Even if your dog is being treated for allergies, she may have breakthrough reactions if she misses a dose of medication or if she gets a particularly big exposure. In most cases, these allergic reactions are not life threatening, but they can be annoying for both you and your dog.

When a Dog Allergic Reaction is an Emergency

A dog allergic reaction is an emergency if she has:

• Difficulty breathing
• Pale mucous membranes (gums)
• Vomiting and diarrhea
• Weakness or collapse
• An abnormal heart rate
• Severe swelling, especially if it does not respond to antihistamines
• Unconsciousness

If your dog has any of these symptoms, contact an emergency veterinarian immediately. Your dog will likely need intravenous medications to stabilize her condition and prevent or treat anaphylactic shock, as well as supportive care to restore hydration and keep her comfortable.

What Can I Give My Dog for an Allergic Reaction?

If this is your dog’s first allergic reaction, or if it is more severe than previous episodes, we strongly recommend seeking veterinary care. Most allergic reactions that start out mild stay mild, but they can progress rapidly and put your dog in danger.

Antihistamines such as diphenhydramine (Benadryl), loratadine (Claritin), and cetirizine (Zyrtec) are safe for most dogs to temporarily alleviate allergic reaction symptoms. Call your veterinarian to get the right dosage for your dog. Always check the ingredients before giving any over-the-counter medication to your dog—avoid combination meds that contain multiple active drugs and avoid anything that has the artificial sweetener xylitol in the inactive ingredients, as these can be extremely toxic to dogs.

Diphenhydramine is typically given every eight hours until symptoms resolve or you have been able to get your dog to the vet’s office. This medication is generally very safe for dogs, but it is still always best practice to speak to a veterinarian before giving it to be sure it is appropriate for your dog.

For bug bites and stings, you can ice the area of the bite to decrease circulation in the area and relieve some of the discomfort and itchiness.

For contact allergies to something like a new laundry detergent or a floor cleaner, a bath with a gentle shampoo or with Dawn dish soap may be helpful to get the offending substance off your dog’s skin.

If your dog has previously been diagnosed with allergies and is experiencing a flare-up of her chronic symptoms, treat according to your veterinarian’s instructions. If you are out of meds and can’t get to the vet right away, a bath with an oatmeal shampoo can help to soothe irritated skin.

Even if your dog responds to treatment at home, touch base with your veterinarian to let them know what happened. She may be able to help guide you in identifying the cause of the allergic reaction or come up with a plan to prevent future reactions.

Common Canine Allergens

Flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) is a common allergy in dogs. These unlucky canines experience sudden, severe itchiness when even a single flea bites them. Dogs suffering from FAD often have red, bumpy, irritated skin, especially on the hind end. They may also have hair loss from all of the scratching and inflammation. Thankfully, FAD is easy to manage—treat all pets in your household for fleas year-round so that your allergic dog doesn’t get exposed to stray fleas. And be sure to treat the dog with FAD with a product that repels or kills fleas on contact and does not require a bite.

Household cleaners and chemicals usually cause reactions on the part of your dog that comes into contact with them. For these cases, your dog might have signs of a reaction on her paws, muzzle, side, or belly. For example, if she has an allergic reaction after lying on a bed washed in a new detergent, the redness and irritation will appear on parts of her body that touched the bed. Dog allergic reaction bumps may be itchy or may just show up as raised skin. Symptoms of the allergic reaction will go away once the dog is no longer exposed to the trigger.

Wasp stings, spider bites, and other bug bites typically cause localized reaction symptoms, but these can range from mild to severe. For example, one of my dogs gets big welts any time she is bitten by a bug. This is not an emergency, but it is uncomfortable for her.

Spider bites and severe reactions to wasp stings can cause dramatic allergic reactions in dogs, with severe swelling, difficulty breathing, itchiness, and even shock. The swelling from bug bite reactions is usually located right around the bite, but severe reactions can cause swelling throughout the body.

The post How To Identify a Dog Allergic Reaction appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Getting a sick dog to drink can be tough to do, but we have ways to entice a dog to drink. Start with the most basic requirement: Cool, clean, and fresh water. If I notice one of my dogs drinking, I get up when he is done and rinse and refill the bowl. My older male Belgian Tervuren leaves the water bowl rather “slimy,” and my girls prefer a clean bowl and water. In hot weather, many dogs will drink more if you put some ice in their bowl.

Note: An elderly dog or any dog post dental work might prefer room-temperature water, as cool or cold water might be painful.

Flavorings for Dog Water

Beyond cool and fresh, you can add some flavoring to see if that helps increase your sick dog’s water intake. You can try:

Low-sodium bouillon. A small amount of bouillon in the water bowl is a tasty option with a nice aroma that even provides a little nutrition.

Tuna juice. Many dogs love the juice from tuna canned in water. The tuna juice also has an inviting smell that may inspire a sick dog to drink.

Chicken soup. We all laugh about chicken soup for sick people, but the attractive odor will get many a dog to lap some up. Once again, you provide a few nutrients, too. Just be sure to test that it is not hot!

Make a slurry. If your dog has a favorite food, you can often add water or put it in the blender and make a slurry. Canned food has more moisture than kibble, so try feeding some canned food for extra hydration.

How Much Water Should a Dog Drink?

Most internal medicine specialists generally agree that normal water consumption for healthy adult dogs, resting in a temperature-controlled environment, is 50 to 80 milliliters of water per kilogram of the dog’s body weight per day (mls/kg/day). To convert this to ordinary household measures, there are 30 mls in an ounce, 8 ounces in a cup, and .45 kg in a pound of body weight. What this works out to is rather simple: Normal water consumption is about an ounce of water per pound of the dog’s weight per day.

While this guide gets you in the ballpark of normal water consumption for an average dog, there are individual factors to consider:

• Active dogs (and yes, some dogs will chase a ball even when ill), need extra fluid.
• Dogs who are panting, whether due to hot weather or activity, need extra water. Dogs lose fluids via panting
• Brachycephalic dogs (think short muzzles and faces, like Pugs), pant routinely and need extra water.
• Sick dogs, especially with a fever, need extra water to stay properly hydrated.
• Dogs battling liver or kidneys problems require plenty of fluid.
• Any dog who has a gastrointestinal illness and is vomiting or has diarrhea or both is losing fluids and needs extra fluid intake to stay hydrated.

Warning Signs of a Dehydrated Dog

There may be times when you can’t stay ahead of your dog’s hydration needs despite your best efforts and he becomes dehydrated. His gums may be tacky to the touch and his mouth looks dry. If you tent his skin over his withers (highest point of his shoulders), it stays up (means he is really dehydrated) or returns to place slowly (somewhat dehydrated). Dehydration with no willingness to drink indicates a trip to the veterinarian for the possible administration of fluids (usually administered subcutaneous, or under the skin).

In many cases, your veterinary clinic staff can teach you how to administer subcutaneous fluids, so you can bring some home with you. Be sure to follow the protocol carefully to keep everything clean. These fluids will be absorbed over a couple of hours and can supplement anything you give orally. For severe cases, your dog may need to stay in the hospital and receive IV (intravenous) fluids.

The post How to Get a Sick Dog to Drink Water appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Whiskers, also known as vibrissae, play a crucial role in your dog’s perception of the world around him and trace back to his breed’s ancestry. For example, hounds and terriers have longer, more pronounced whiskers, while other breeds without the genes for hunting and tracking may have shorter or less-prominent whiskers.

While whiskers may vary in appearance across breeds, all dogs have them and understanding their function will help you make informed decisions about their care and answer questions such as should you cut your dog’s whiskers (no!).

Why Do Dogs Have Whiskers?

Whiskers are sensitive and embedded in follicles that connect to nerves, allowing dogs to detect even small movements and changes in their environment. The role of whiskers includes:

• Navigation. Whiskers help dogs navigate their surroundings by providing information about objects, obstacles, and potential threats. This is particularly important in close quarters because dogs’ sense of sight is better suited for longer distances. Supplemental vibrissae extensions have even been found to assist blind dogs
• Sensory awareness. Whiskers are sensitive to touch and pressure, detecting even the faintest breeze or the presence of nearby objects, enabling dogs to react quickly to changes in their environment.
• Detecting prey. In their primal days, whiskers were crucial for hunting. They helped dogs detect prey, track their movements, and avoid obstacles in the dark.
• Expressing emotion. Along with body posture, tail position, and vocalizations, whiskers play a subtle role in expressing a dog’s emotions. For example, when a dog is relaxed, their whiskers typically rest in a natural position. If a dog is curious, whiskers may become more erect or twitch. When a dog feels threatened or aggressive, their whiskers might flare out sideways or downward, indicating discomfort or a readiness to defend themselves.
• Protection. Whiskers can serve as a protective mechanism. For example, those near your dog’s eyes may trigger a reflexive blink when they are touched, helping to shield the eyes from potential harm.

Can You Cut Dog Whiskers?

While your dog’s whiskers will grow back if you cut them, it’s important to remember that you’re compromising their sensory abilities. Trimming whiskers might tempt you for aesthetic reasons, especially if you’re showing your dog and need to meet specific requirements.

“If you touch his whiskers, your dog will often reflexively blink because of the information the whisker transmitted to the brain: Something is near the face, protect the eye! Whiskers serve an important sensory and protective function for your dog,” says Syracuse, N.Y., veterinarian and Whole Dog Journal contributor Dr. Andrea Lee. This sensory area is particularly concentrated in the regions associated with whiskers, which highlights their importance for a dog’s neurological function.

If your dog’s whiskers are becoming overly long or matted, consult with a professional groomer who can trim them carefully without compromising their functionality. Your veterinarian can also provide advice on how to maintain your dog’s whiskers and keep them clean and healthy.

The post Why Do Dogs Have Whiskers and Should You Cut Them? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Acepromazine for Dogs

Acepromazine is a commonly used drug for dog sedation, but it is not a good choice. It has no effect on pain and does not reduce anxiety—all it does is keep your dog somewhat immobile—not the best way to get a dog accustomed to being groomed. Acepromazine is also on the list of drugs to use with extreme caution in dogs with the MDR1 genetic defect.

Acepromazine can lower blood pressure and interacts with a variety of gastrointestinal medications and flea and tick treatments. Acepromazine is not reversible, and some dogs take a long time to completely come out of its sedative influence.

Veterinarians are more likely to reach for trazodone, which is a human medication used for depression. It also has some interactions and side effects, of course, but your veterinarian will guide you. If your dog truly needs full sedation for grooming, you need to find a safe option.

OTC Dog Sedative for Grooming

If your dog doesn’t really need full sedation but just the excitable “edge” taken off, you might want to try some over-the-counter options. Many herbal and oil combos can mellow a dog, such as Canine Calm, which is an essential oil mix that can help your dog to view grooming more positively.

Hemp bites and chews may help your dog through the stress of grooming, but before you buy any, ask your veterinarian for reputable sources as some brands are not consistent from batch to batch.

Dog pheromones help settle some dogs. Try an Adaptil collar, bandana with spray, or find out if they have a diffuser in the grooming salon.

With any of these OTC options, you need to experiment to see how long it takes your dog to respond to the products. Not all dogs are affected the same way.

Skip Sedation for Nail Trimming

Nail trimming is over so quickly that sedating your dog is basically overkill. The OTC options may work, but the best way to handle nail trimming for a phobic dog is to use time, patience, and baby steps.

First, handle your dog’s toes and feet while providing treats until he doesn’t pay any attention to that. You can add in snapping the clippers so your dog can hear them, also while feeding a couple of great treats. You may need to repeat this for several days before moving beyond this step.

Once he seems to think “treat” instead of “scary noise,” gradually bring the clippers closer until you can clip a small portion of one nail. You may end up trimming one nail a day eventually, but that is still progress.

Some dogs are OK for a regular nail clipper and others prefer a Dremel nail grinding tool. (Careful! Don’t care tangled up in them!) Experiment to see what’s best for your dog.

Don’t dismiss the idea of a muzzle. If your dog has been trained to accept a muzzle, many dogs calm down as soon as it is put on. Again, this requires effort by you ahead of time.

Choose Your Groomer Wisely

Find a groomer willing to work with you and your timid dog, but you should also be prepared to pay extra. Schedule your dog when he is the only one at the salon. Less activity means less stress. Only do as much as your dog is ready to handle, so you may need a bunch of 15-minute appointments. Your dog might be better with you there to hold his paw, or he might be better behaved and less stressed if you’re not there. This is especially true if YOU are stressed.

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Mastitis is an inflammatory condition of the mammary glands of intact female dogs. It can involve infection (bacterial or rarely, fungal). Mastitis is most likely to occur in situations of sudden decrease in milk consumption by puppies, for example, after abrupt weaning of the litter, or after death of nursing puppies. Sometimes mastitis can occur in late pregnancy, or in female dogs who experience pseudocyesis (false pregnancy).

Note: Swollen mammary glands in dogs not pregnant may be caused by a variety of problems, including cancer, so the dog should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.

Signs of Mastitis in Dogs

Clinical signs of mastitis involve abnormal changes to the mammary glands: redness or other discoloration, firm swelling, heat, and pain. Milk might be difficult to express, bloody or discolored. In severe cases, there can be fever, ulceration of the mammary glands, development of abscesses, or necrosis. In mild cases, the only clinical sign might be nursing puppies who fail to gain weight.

If mastitis is suspected, a physical exam by a veterinarian is recommended. A complete blood count might be normal in the early stages; more severe cases will result in an increase in white blood cells. Milk cytology will show an increased neutrophil count. Milk should be cultured from an aseptically obtained sample to direct antibiotic therapy.

Treating Canine Mastitis

Treatment of mastitis involves broad-spectrum antibiotics for suspected infection. Antibiotic choice will need to take into consideration whether there are puppies still nursing from the patient, and duration of treatment is usually for two to three weeks.

Cabbage leaf compresses can be used to address inflammation. Raw cabbage leaves can be applied to the affected glands and secured in place with a wrap for two to three hours, then removed for three to four hours (puppies can nurse when the cabbage leaves are removed). Therapeutic cold laser can also be helpful to address inflammation.

For nursing mothers, expressing the milk in the affected gland every six hours can help with swelling and pain. Massage and warm compresses can also help bring blood flow into the affected tissue and break up the congestion within the gland. Pain management should be considered.

If there is systemic illness, hospitalization might be necessary for intravenous fluid therapy and antibiotics. In severe cases, especially those involving gangrene, surgical debridement or mastectomy is necessary.

Note: If the patient is in a false pregnancy, do not express milk, as that will encourage more milk to be produced. Try to remove the objects she treats as her “puppies” to help decrease the production of the hormone prolactin, which also stimulates milk production. There is an oral medication that can help decrease prolactin levels (cabergoline).

Preventing Mastitis in Dogs

Prevention of mastitis involves keeping the nursing environment as clean as possible. It’s wise to try to prevent trauma to the mammary glands by eliminating sharp objects in the whelping box and trimming the puppies’ toenails. Make sure the puppies are nursing from all the teats to keep the glands drained (in small litters, rotate through each of the teats).

Mastitis can be a stressful complication of raising a litter of puppies, but it is rarely life-threatening if long as prompt veterinary attention is sought as early in this disease process as possible. Breeders should monitor the state of the mammary glands starting prior to whelping through past weaning to catch those early clinical signs.

The post Mastitis in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Soft dog food is great for senior dogs because, compared to dry foods, it offers:

• Ease of consumption
• Higher palatability
• Hydration
• Increased digestibility
• Stronger aroma

Soft food does, however, come with the drawbacks of a higher cost, refrigerated storage, and a short shelf-life after opening it.

Variety of Formulations

Canned food comes in multiple formats, from patés to chunks in gravy and is formulated to meet every life-stage, from puppies to seniors. These formulations use a variety of different protein sources, from conventional proteins like chicken and beef, to novel protein sources, such as venison and rabbit. Veterinary formulations are also available for dogs who need specialized nutrition for health reasons, and there are foods formulated specifically for senior dogs.

Old Dog Dental Issues

Canned food is often easier for senior dogs to chew and digest compared to dry kibble. As dogs age, they can experience dental issues or reduced jaw strength, making softer food a more comfortable option than dry, hard foods.

For seniors with dental issues, eating hard food can be painful and may lead to reduced food intake. Often, dental cleaning or tooth extractions are needed to solve the problem, but feeding wet food can help provide some relief to your pet in the meantime.

Canned Food Is More Appetizing to Dogs

In addition to being easier to eat, soft food may be more palatable due to its higher moisture and strong aroma. As dogs age, a decrease in their sense of smell can have negative impacts on their appetite. For dogs that have diminished appetites, or are historically picky eaters, selecting a strong-smelling food, such as a canned diet, may help entice your senior at mealtimes.

Benefits of a Wet Food

The higher levels of moisture in canned foods are not only beneficial for palatability, but also for hydration. Senior dogs are more prone to dehydration than their younger counterparts, so providing moisture during their mealtimes will help ensure they have the water necessary to maintain healthy bodily functions, including supporting kidney and urinary health.

Canned Food Is Gentler

Canned dog food can be gentler on the digestive system than conventional kibble, which is advantageous for older dogs with sensitive stomachs. Wet foods typically contain higher inclusions of meat ingredients, which are protein-rich and highly digestible. High-quality protein sources are important, especially for seniors who often struggle to maintain lean muscle mass. Finding a canned food that is formulated specifically for seniors can also provide additional benefits for our aging companions, as senior formulas are often enriched with nutrients to support joint health, decrease inflammation, and promote digestion.

Downsides of Soft Dog Food

Despite all the pluses to feeding soft food to senior dogs, there are some cons. Canned dog food generally has a shorter shelf life compared to kibble, especially after it has been opened. Proper storage and refrigeration after opening are necessary to prevent spoilage. This can result in increased food waste if your dog does not consume it quickly enough.

Feeding a diet of only soft dog food is more expensive than feeding kibble, which may make it cost-prohibitive, especially for those with multiple pets or large breeds. Because of the water content present in canned foods, the volume you need to feed to meet your dog’s energy and nutrient requirements is much higher than that of a dehydrated diet.

If your older dog—or any dog—stops eating, be sure to consult with your veterinarian to be certain he isn’t ill. And, while you’re there, talk to your veterinarian for help determining the best diet for your senior dog and their health needs.

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Causes of Dandruff in Dogs

Flaking dandruff can be caused by seborrhea, a condition where new skin cells move too quickly to the skin’s surface often accompanied by overactive glands that cause greasy skin. Researchers suspect a genetic connection because the condition is common among certain breeds, like American Cocker Spaniels, English Springer Spaniels, Doberman Pinschers, Dachshunds, German Shepherd Dogs, and West Highland White Terriers.

If your dog’s dandruff outbreaks coincide with dry winter weather, the trigger may be a lack of humidity combined with indoor heating, both of which dry the skin. Too-frequent bathing or the use of harsh shampoos can also cause skin to crack and flake.

Environmental and seasonal allergies can cause or worsen dog dandruff by exposing dogs to pollen and other substances that contribute to dry, flaky, itchy, or inflamed skin.  Nutritional deficiencies, including insufficient or poor-quality protein or a lack of Omega-3 fatty acids, have a similar effect.

Itchy paws, flaky skin, and an unpleasant skin odor can also be signs of a yeast infection such as Malassezia. If simple home remedies don’t eliminate dandruff, schedule a vet visit to check for yeast, fungi, mites, or other underlying factors. In some cases, hypothyroidism (an underactive thyroid gland) or auto-immune diseases cause dandruff in dogs.

How to Reduce Dog Dandruff

Gentle daily brushing is an important treatment for your dog’s skin and coat because it stimulates blood flow, promotes natural oil production, and distributes oils throughout the coat.

• Slicker brushes covered with short, tightly packed wire pins angled to avoid skin scratches are recommended for most pups, including long-coated, wire-coated, or curly coated dogs.
• Pinhead or wire-pin brushes with medium-spaced wire pins that may have rubber tips to protect the skin are recommended for most breeds, finishing long coats, smoothing hair, and removing dust and dirt.
• Bristle brushes made with natural or synthetic bristles work well on short-haired dogs and dogs with silky coats.
• Rubber or silicone brushes with short, flexible bristles are also called bath brushes because they can be used to massage shampoo or conditioner into the coat as well as brush short coats between baths.
• Grooming mitts, which are gloves with silicone or rubber ridges or nodules that remove dead hair and smooth the coat, combine grooming with petting, which may help anxious dogs relax and help owners feel closer to their pets while improving their coats. Increasingly popular, grooming mitts or gloves come in a variety of shapes and sizes for left and right hands.

Visit pet supply stores or grooming salons to compare brushes and ask a groomer for advice about which will work best for your dog. Look for a brush with a comfortable handle or ergonomic design that will be easy for you to use. Frequent brushing helps the coat shine, helps prevent tangles and matting, and reduces dandruff.

Improved nutrition changes a dog’s coat, especially when the quality of a food’s protein is upgraded. As explained in How to Find Healthy Dog Food, look for foods that name animal protein sources at the top of the ingredient list. Add fresh foods like eggs, meat, fish, yogurt, or cottage cheese to your dog’s dry food to improve its nutritional content. Try an Omega-3 fatty acid supplement like salmon oil or other fish oil to support the skin’s elasticity, making it less brittle and less inclined to crack or flake. Dehydration contributes to dry skin as well, so help prevent it by placing extra bowls of fresh water in convenient locations for your dog.

Moisturizing shampoos and conditioners relieve flakiness and irritation. Human dandruff shampoos are considered too harsh for pups, but gentle products designed for dogs can make a difference. Oatmeal and aloe vera are popular ingredients, and natural anti-itch sprays or conditioners applied after bathing or between baths help reduce symptoms. Products recommended for dogs with dandruff include

Warren London Dog Shampoo, Buddy Wash Shampoo & Conditioner,  4-Legger Hypoallergenic Shampoo, Pure & Natural Pet Hypoallergenic Organic Conditioner, and Skout’s Honor Probiotic Pet Spray.

The post How to Treat Dandruff in Dogs Naturally appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Breed Can Influence Shedding

Some dogs lose only a little hair throughout the year while others shed heavily when seasons change, and some dogs shed every day of their lives. Among purebred dogs, the heaviest shedders are:

• Siberian Huskies
• Alaskan Malamutes
• German Shepherds
• Golden Retrievers
• Labrador Retrievers
• Dalmatians
• Akitas
• Chow Chows

These dogs shed more because they are double-coated. The outer layer of a dog’s hair is the topcoat, also known as guard hairs. The topcoat is usually coarse in texture and effective at repelling water and protecting the skin. In addition, double-coated dogs have an undercoat of short, dense hair that traps air close to the skin, providing insulation and protecting against both heat and cold. Because undercoats grow quickly and shed dramatically, “blowing their coat” is an accurate description when dogs respond to seasonal changes in spring or fall by releasing no-longer-needed hair.

One popular belief is that long-haired dogs shed more than their short-haired cousins, which anyone with a Lab knows is a myth. Another misconception assumes that all Doodle dogs (Poodle crosses) are hypoallergenic and never shed. The truth lies in their DNA, where two key genes (MC5R and RSPO2) determine a dog’s shedding pattern by defining the shape and behavior of hair follicles. Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, Bernedoodles, and Aussiedoodles can shed just like their Golden Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Bernese Mountain Dog, or Australian Shepherd parents. Although many Doodles shed less than other dogs, there is no guarantee that their Poodle genes will control their coats.

Age, Health, and Hair Loss

Puppies shed less than adult dogs because their hair is fine and soft, but when their adult coats grow in, which usually happens by six months of age, puppies can lose a lot of hair.

Most healthy adult dogs develop a predictable shedding pattern and their coats’ behavior remains constant through middle age. In contrast, senior coats become thinner, less dense, and more prone to matting, all of which can change their shedding schedules.

If at any age your dog’s skin becomes flaky, discolored, or patchy, or if the coat becomes dull and dry, there may be an underlying medical condition. Skin parasites (fleas, ticks, or mites), hormonal imbalances, autoimmune disorders, bacterial or fungal infections, physical injuries, pregnancy, and even the stress of 4^th of July fireworks, relocations, or other interruptions of a dog’s comfortable routines can trigger hair loss. So can environmental allergies to pollen or grass. Schedule a checkup if unusual symptoms accompany excessive shedding, such as weight gain, fatigue, excessive itching, or increased thirst or urination.

How Seasonal Changes Affect Shedding

Double-coated dogs, including those who shed every day, are notorious for heavy shedding as they react to changing daylight hours and warming temperatures by releasing their winter coats in spring. They may also shed as winter approaches and their bodies prepare for new insulating hair growth by releasing their summer coats. In other words, heavy shedding in spring, fall, or early winter can be normal and predictable.

What to Do with All That Dog Hair

Cleaning up after a shedding dog can seem an unending task, but technology helps. For the latest in vacuums that handle shed hair, see the Bissell Pet Hair Vacuum,

Hoover WindTunnel Tangle Guard Upright Vacuum,  Kenmore Pet-Friendly Bagged Upright Vacuum, or Black & Decker Furbuster Cordless Handheld Pet Vacuum.

Tiny polyester fibers in Swiffer Pet Floor Sweeping Cloths and in other dry Swiffer cloths create a static charge that attracts and removes dog hair, dirt, and dust particles from hard floors. The highly rated Turbo Microfiber Mop Floor Cleaning System  can be used wet or dry to trap and remove pet hair.

Air purifiers pull household air through a filtration system, capturing and trapping microscopic pet allergens, odor, dander, and hair. Recommended filters for homes with shedding dogs include the Bissell Air400 Air Purifier, Levoit Advanced Air Purifier for Pets, and BlueAir 311i Max Pet Dander Air Purifier.

Since its introduction in 2012, the ChomChom Roller Pet Hair Remover has won rave reviews from Consumer Reports, the Good Housekeeping Institute, and other organizations for its effect on furniture, pillows, and even carpet. It’s the only tested tool that gathers and collects all the pet hair it touches with simple forward-and-backward swipes. For use on clothing, try the Evercare Extreme Stick Lint Roller. To remove dog hair from clothes in your laundry, try Bounce Pet Hair Mega Dryer Sheets, which out-perform other dryer sheets in pet hair laundry tests.

Can You Reduce Shedding at the Source?

Yes. You can often reduce how much your dog sheds by improving her diet along with doing basic grooming and routine maintenance such as regular brushing and bathing.

Nutrition and Shedding

Nutritional deficiencies contribute to shedding because the strength and flexibility of guard hairs and undercoat depend on the quality of protein and other nutrients in a dog’s diet. Adding fresh protein such as eggs, meat, fish, yogurt, or cottage cheese to your dog’s dry food, can help, and so can upgrading to foods whose first ingredients are meat and meat meal rather than corn, soy, wheat, or legumes. Food allergies or sensitivities can contribute to itchy skin, skin infections, and hair loss. Because dehydration contributes to dry coats and shedding, give your dog extra bowls of fresh, clean water and add warm water, bone broth, or goat milk to his dinner, especially when winter weather and indoor heating dry the air.

Brush and Brush Some More

Brushing can remove excess hair before it lands on your floor.

• Slicker brushes, such as those from Chris Christensen, feature short, tightly packed wire pins that are angled to remove loose hair while avoiding the skin. Slickers are versatile and work well on different types of coats, especially wire-coated, curly-coated, medium-coated, and long-coated dogs. Some are self-cleaning, thanks to a button that retracts the brush’s wire pins.
• Bristle brushes, like the Kenchii Boar and Nylon Grooming Brush, are made with natural or synthetic bristles and work well on short-coated dogs. Use as a finishing brush on double-coated dogs.
• Pin brushes, like the Andis Medium Pin Brush, are covered with medium-spaced wire pins, often with rubber tips to prevent skin injury. They work well as finishing brushes for long-haired dogs and to remove tangles from wire-coated dogs. Some double-sided dog brushes, such as the Hartz Combo Brush, have pins on one side and bristles on the other.
• Resembling curry combs for horses, shedding blades for dogs, such as the Frisco Shedding Blade Dog Brush, remove loose or dead hair and reduce shedding with a single metal blade that has coarse teeth for thick coats on one side and fine teeth for shorter coats on the other. The handle separates to create a single blade to cover larger areas.
• The most popular and well-known shedding tool for double-coated dogs is the FURminator, whose stainless steel edge reaches through guard hairs to remove loose hair and undercoat without damaging the topcoat or injuring the dog’s skin.
• HandsOn Shedding Dog Gloves are covered with non-abrasive, flexible rubber nodules that massage the skin while removing excess hair. They can be used wet or dry and are appropriate for all breeds, plus cats and horses.
• Rubber or silicone curry combs or bath brushes, like the Kong ZoomGroom, double as massage tools and grooming brushes.
• Stainless steel grooming combs, like the 10″ Andis Steel Comb, work well on wet dogs covered with shampoo or conditioner. In fact, combing your dog as you condition his coat can remove substantial amounts of soon-to-shed hair.

Bathing Helps Reduce Shedding

Several shampoos and conditioners claim to control or reduce shedding, such as

EZ Out Deshedding Shampoo, Coat Handler’s Undercoat Control Deshedding Dog Conditioner, Furminator’s deShedding Shampoo, Earthbath Shed Control Shampoo, and Nature’s Miracle Shed Control Shampoo & Conditioner. Most contain herbal ingredients like aloe vera or green tea, natural oils like shea butter, nutrients like vitamins A, D, and E, or omega-3 and -6 fatty acids. Groomers often describe conditioning as a final step that detangles, moisturizes, and seals hair shafts, protecting the coat from injury, improving its overall appearance, and releasing loose hair before it can shed.

Follow your grooming product’s label instructions for best results. Most recommend that you brush your dog’s dry coat well, remove excess hair with a de-shedding tool, then bathe your dog. Follow shampoo recommendations, which may involve working the product into your dog’s wet coat and letting it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing. Do the same with a conditioner, if you’re using one. Rinse well and towel dry. A force dryer, such as the Shelandy Pet Dryer, can remove shedding hair while drying your dog. When the coat is dry, follow with additional brushing.

No shampoo or conditioner can prevent your dog from releasing dead hair, but when combined with regular brushing and appropriate tools, shed-control grooming products can help your dog maintain a healthy coat while you maintain a (mostly) shed-free home.

The post Why Is My Dog Shedding So Much? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Some dog paw problems focus around the dog’s nails, or claws. Note: A dog’s nails are technically “claws” because they are pointed, curved, and grow out of the end of an appendage. Nails are flatter and more rounded and grow over the end of the appendage. We will use both terms in this piece, however, because “dog nails” is the more common term.

Unhealthy Dog Nails

Regular trimming of your dog’s nails can prevent some problems and promote normal body stance and movement.

• Overgrown claws. If your dog’s claws are too long, they change the way he stands and walks. Ideally, your dog’s nails should be short and close to the paw, so that they can be used to grip when needed but don’t get in the way the rest of the time. Some dogs wear their claws down naturally, but many require weekly nail trims to obtain ideal nail length.
• Broken claws. If your dog catches her nail on something, it can break. If the break occurs in the keratinized portion of the claw, it will not hurt. But if it affects the “quick,” which has blood vessels and nerves in it, it will both hurt and bleed. Broken claws are more likely to occur if your dog has long claws that are not trimmed regularly. In some cases, you may be able to trim the broken claw yourself, but if it is bleeding or painful you may need a veterinary appointment for removal under sedation.
• Ingrown claws. Untrimmed claws continue to grow and may eventually curl under and into the paw. This is painful, and the resulting wound is susceptible to infection. If your dog’s nails tend to curl (we’re looking at you, Pugs and Beagles), keep on top of regular nail trims. An ingrown claw will require a vet appointment to potentially trim the nail and clean the wound under sedation, plus prescribe antibiotics to resolve any infection that may be present.
• Infected claws. Dog nails can become infected by yeast or bacteria. You may notice that your dog’s paws smell weird, and that the texture of the claws has changed. Infected nails may appear bloody, greasy, discolored, or feel soft when you try to trim them.
• Symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy (SLO). This is an autoimmune disease that causes inflammation of the claw bed, which in turn leads to abnormal claws. Dogs with SLO often have sore, painful paws, and the claws frequently fall off and grow back with an abnormal shape or texture. This condition will require long-term medications and management to keep your dog comfortable.

Unhealthy Dog Paws

Claw problems aren’t the only things that may go wrong with your dog’s feet. Some potential dog-paw problems include:

• Run off pads. Active dogs who like to run over hard surfaces such as asphalt, cement, rocks, or hard-packed dirt can damage the thick pads on the bottom of their paws. The friction between the paw and the ground causes the pad layer to separate from the sensitive underlying tissues. While this is not a dire situation, it is painful. Your dog will need to rest while the weak spots in the pad(s) heal and may need pain meds or antibiotics from your veterinarian.
• Longhaired dogs seem to love to get things stuck in the hair between their toes, which can cause uncomfortable knots to develop. Carefully clip existing mats to relieve discomfort. Prevent future mats by keeping the hair on your dog’s feet trimmed.
• Yeast and bacterial infections. Dog paws can be an ideal spot for microbial infections. Common signs include a characteristic “corn chip” odor, oozy or flakey skin on the paws, and licking or chewing. Your veterinarian will do a skin scrape to determine the cause of the infection and treat it with appropriate topical or systemic medications.
• Dogs with allergies—especially environmental allergies—often get itchy feet. You will notice your dog constantly licking and chewing his paws, and the characteristic dark rusty staining of the hair from all the licking. Some dogs may feel better with just Benadryl, but many may need prescription meds such as Apoquel, Cytopoint, or allergy injections to quell the itch. Some dogs have seasonal allergies, while others experience symptoms year-round.
• Paw lacerations. A cut paw hurts! Your dog will limp, and bleeding may seem excessive because of the many blood vessels in the paw. Initiate first aid by applying pressure to stop bleeding, then call your veterinarian to get the wound cleaned and some antibiotics.
• Broken toes. Dogs can break their toes in many ways, even by getting a toe stuck in a crate door or by being stepped on. Most of these fractures can heal on their own with strict rest. If the bone heals poorly or continues to bother your dog, amputation may be the best choice. Dogs do fine with a missing toe or two.
• Sarcoptic mange. The mites that cause sarcoptic mange like to live in dogs’ skin, and they cause an extreme itch along with red, irritated skin. Your vet can check for mange with the same skin scrape that checks for bacterial and fungal infections. Thankfully, sarcoptic mange can be treated with many of the same medications that we use to prevent fleas and ticks.
• Keratin overgrowth. While most common in brachycephalic breeds such as Boxers or Bulldogs, some dogs have excessive growth of the hard keratin on their paw pads. Instead of being smooth with a slight cobblestone pattern, these dogs have long thin projections all over the paw pads. This condition is not usually painful but can impact how your dog walks. Excess keratin can be trimmed back by your veterinarian.
• Interdigital furunculosis. This condition is most common in short-haired breeds such as Bulldogs and may be referred to as interdigital cysts, although the bumps are not true cysts. Interdigital furunculosis is when the hair follicles on the paw become inflamed, resulting in painful swelling on or between the toes. This condition is often related to allergies, and it can predispose the dog to deep bacterial infections in the paw that require long treatment courses with antibiotics.
• Pemphigus foliaceus. This is an autoimmune disease that causes crusts, sores, and severe irritation on the paws. Dogs with pemphigus foliaceus may also have secondary yeast or bacterial infections, which make their paws even more uncomfortable. Your veterinarian will treat any infections directly and address the pemphigus with an immunosuppressive medication.
• Squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma are two common cancers that can develop on dogs’ paws. If you notice a growth on your dog’s paw—especially if it is growing rapidly—schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible.

Bottom Line

Truly unhealthy dog paws and unhealthy dog claws are not common, but they can be painful. Set your dog up for success by trimming his claws regularly and checking his paws any time you notice lameness or excessive licking and chewing.

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