A Look At Indoor Potty Products

Indoor dog bathrooms come in a variety of styles including: real grass, artificial grass, pee pads, other absorbent materials, and plastic units. Our preference is for boxes that use some type of natural substrate, but here are some examples of each:

• Doggie Lawn: At the top of our list because it uses real grass (grass sits in a plastic tray), reducing confusion for dogs who are expected to eliminate outdoors as well as indoors. It comes in multiple sizes, from Standard (24 x 15.5 inches) to XL (24 x 48 inches) to accommodate a variety of different-sized dogs. Price ranges from $34 to $103 depending on size; you also order a subscription for their “soil-less” hydroponically grown grass for easy, compostable cleanup and replacement. Downsides: Real grass requires more maintenance than artificial, and isn’t good for dogs who have grass allergies.

• Bark Potty: Shredded and absorbent tree bark in a cardboard frame with an inner plastic tray. We like this one because it’s a natural material your dog can find outside for bathroom purposes. Netting over the surface prevents your dog from scattering the bark. Available in two sizes: Standard (16 x 20; $37) and Large (20 x 31; $58). Downsides: Some dogs may chew the box and the bark. Also although marketed to last a month, urine smell may become noticeable after three weeks.
• Petmaker Artificial Grass Puppy Pad: A four-layer unit consisting of an artificial grass mat, which sits atop an odor-resistant cloth mat, which covers a plastic drainage insert, which sits inside a durable plastic collection tray. Three sizes, from Small (16 x 20) to Large (20 x 30) from $25 to $45. Downside: Grass pads may wear out quickly.
• Doggy Bathroom Dog Litter Box: A plastic box with tall sides! Ideal for dogs who lift their legs to pee; absorbent pee pads attach to the sides of the box. Recommended for small dogs (up to 20 inches) – comes in two sizes: Mini ($189) and Regular ($209). Downsides: Cost and size limitation.
• BrilliantPad Original Indoor Dog Potty: The dog steps onto a low platform that has absorbent material stretched across it; the material is contained in rolls that are encased in plastic tubes on either side of the platform. After the dog eliminates on the pad, you can advance the pad to expose a clean section; the soiled section is contained until the entire roll (which contains 21 full pad advances) is soiled and discarded. A high-tech version (BrilliantPad Smart) allows you to advance the pad using an app on your phone. Downsides: Expensive ($230 – $250, plus rolls for $50 each) – and only for dogs 25 pounds or less. Motion activation could be aversive to some dogs.

Disposable Pee Pads: Lots of brands to choose from, so it can come down to personal preference; you may want to do a deeper dive into your own research and testing. Two we found that look promising are:

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• Bulldogology Carbon Tech – Top rated from numerous sources and reported to be super-absorbent. These pads don’t easily wrinkle, flip, or move. The 24- x 24-inch pads have six layers, including an odor neutralizer (carbon); layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and a waterproof liner to prevent leaks. $57 for 100 pads.
• Kirkland Extra-Large Absorbent Pads – Costco sells these affordable, extra size for larger dogs (23 x 30 inches), with four layers including absorbent cloth, layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and plastic liner to prevent leaks. $21 for 100 pads.

Washable/Reusable Pee Pads: Again, there are multiple brands to choose from; here are two that are highly rated:

• Green Lifestyle Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These thick and highly absorbent, eco-friendly, machine washable pads have reinforced seams that last for many washes. A waterproof backing prevents leakage. They come in two sizes – 30 x 34 inches and 34 x 36 inches and in a pack of four or six. $29 to $44 at Chewy.com.
• Max and Neo Washable Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These pads are quick-drying but extra-thick (four layers, with an inner layer that locks in liquid), and an inviting, quilted top layer. They come in one size (30 x 36 inches). $20 for two.

How to teach a dog to use an indoor potty

Some dogs catch onto indoor potty use very quickly, others take more effort, especially if they’ve been scrupulous about their housetraining habits in the past. Here are some tips:

• Place your dog’s bathroom in a quiet location that is easily accessible for her, on an easy-to-clean surface with good ventilation to minimize odor.
• Introduce your dog to the potty; show her where the indoor dog potty is and encourage her to check it out on her own so she can get comfortable with it. Do not put treats on it to get her to walk on it; dogs tend not to eliminate where they get food!
• Collect a urine and stool sample to place on the potty surface to give her the idea.
• Use positive reinforcement. When she uses the indoor dog potty, mark, praise, and give her a treat (away from the potty!). This associates using the potty with good things, making her more likely to use it in the future.
• As with any housetraining, consistency is vital. Take your dog to the indoor dog potty regularly, especially after meals, naps, and playtime.
• Give your dog time. Remember, it may take time for her to learn to use the indoor potty. Don’t get discouraged if your dog has accidents at first. Stick to your routine and reinforce good behavior. If you’re struggling, try taking your indoor potty outdoors to your dog’s normal bathroom spot, get her to use it there several times, then take it back indoors. Be patient!
• Teach a bathroom cue. Use a specific cue (such as “Potty!” or “Go pee!”) when taking your dog to the indoor dog potty. If you already use one for outdoor elimination, use the same one indoors.
• Be sure to clean up any accidents thoroughly and use an odor neutralizer on any elimination “mistakes,” to help clarify where your dog should and should not be eliminating.
• And one final tip for dogs who lift their leg to pee: Put a sturdy, absorbent-covered or washable post in the middle of the pad or box. If you can, collect a little of your dog’s or another dog’s urine (even a few drops!) and drip or spray the post with it; this will help show your dog where to lift a leg!

The post Indoor Dog Potty appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Always have yummy treats ready for your training sessions, so you can capture and reward desired behaviors whenever they occur. Let’s start!

Teach Attention

All dogs need to be able to pay attention to their humans, but with deaf dogs, it’s critical. Because the dog can’t hear, training a deaf dog requires that he learn to look at you. Start with your dog on a six-foot leash.

This will take patience, but your dog will look at you. When he does, reinforce with a treat. Do this a half-dozen to a dozen times, and then end the session. You can repeat the session later. After he gets the idea that looking at you is the desired behavior, just give the attention cue and reward him when he looks at you.

You can train a “pay attention to me” cue, like pointing to your face, but if simply you treat each time he looks at you – consistently! – he will happily and frequently look at you, hoping it pays off with a yummy treat.

If He Ignores You

If your dog looks away too much, don’t worry. Just remember to reward him when he looks at you. To increase his attention, you can:

• Make vibrations. As you approach your dog, he may feel the floor vibrating and turn to look at you. If not, you may stomp your foot or hand on the floor to get his attention. Treat when he looks at you.
• Use a flashlight. Turning a flashlight on and off a few times should get your dog’s attention inside any time or outside at night. Do the light flashes inside near him first, so that you can give him a treat immediately after he looks at you. You want him to understand that’s the desired behavior. You can even use a porch light turned on and off to get attention at night. Caution using light sources though: Some dogs may develop OCD and compulsively chase the lights, especially lasers.
• Gently touch his shoulder or on his back above his tail. Before doing this, you need to condition him that this is a positive action so that you don’t startle him.
• Use a vibrating collar. This can be used to get your dog’s attention. The point is to communicate, not punish. Some dogs may be sensitive to the vibrations and become stressed. If so, use a different method to get his attention. Never use a shock collar, which is always aversive.

Hand Signals

You can use traditional hand obedience-competition signals: adapt some from American Sign Language, or make up your own. Dogs are experts at reading body language. Whatever you select, it’s crucial that you and everyone working with your deaf dog are precisely consistent in the signal used, including which hand is used. Each hand signal must be distinctive from the others.

When using hand signals, you can speak the word for the behavior cue. Even though the dog can’t hear it, you will probably be more natural if you simultaneously say the cue as you give the signal.

Use lure-reward training when teaching a cue using a hand signal. The dog will naturally follow the motion of the lure. “Sit” is a basic behavior to start with. Have a yummy treat in your hand and hold it just above your dog’s nose. Slowly move it toward the back of his head, then lift your elbow up toward a 90-degree angle. As soon as your dog’s posterior touches the ground in a sit, give him his reward treat.

In another training session, you can teach him to lie down on cue. Make a sweeping motion with a treat in front of his nose down to the ground when he’s sitting, luring him down. Treat and reward when his elbows come into contact with the ground.

Frankly, hand signals help any dog – with or without hearing – pay more attention to you. Even if your dog still has his hearing, many lose it as they age. And, just as with us, background noise can get in the way of the dog hearing a verbal cue. Plus – there may be times you can’t (or don’t want to) speak – like when you’re on the phone with a client.

Mark the Behavior

Since your dog can’t hear the traditional “good job” reward marker such as the click of a clicker or a verbal “Yes!” you need a different reward marker. This can be a thumbs-up, the action of clapping your hands, or even nodding your head a few times. And smile! Your dog will notice. Use your reward marker signal after he performs the desired behavior cue, then immediately provide him with his reward treat. Remember that every time you mark a behavior you must treat or provide some other high-value reinforcer.

If at any time your dog is reactive, aggressive, or you’re not making progress, get professional help before proceeding. Take your deaf dog to the veterinarian to be sure there aren’t any physical issues. You can also contact the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants or the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists to find a behavior specialist in your area. If you need help with the training itself, you can contact the Pet Professional Guild or the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.

The post How To Train a Deaf Dog appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

If your dog has arthritis or is recovering from an injury or has a condition that restricts her range of motion, a variety of assistance devices ranging from simple to sophisticated can help her live a more comfortable, active life.

Dog Steps and Ramps

Steps and ramps are affordable, portable aids for dogs who need help getting onto or off of furniture or into and out of vehicles.

If your dog needs only a little help with a few stairs, nonskid strips from a home-improvement store may provide all the support she needs.

Longer distances, such as from the floor to a bed or sofa or from the ground to your car seat or the back of your SUV, may require a ramp. For a wide assortment of pet steps and ramps, search for these items at Amazon.com, Chewy.com, Wayfair.com, and other retailers.

Study products and their return policies carefully, for not all pet ramps and steps are stable, comfortable, or safe for your dog. As Michael Petty, DVM, explains in Dr. Petty’s Pain Relief for Dogs (Countryman Press, 2016), “If your dog needs a ramp for two or three steps, I recommend that you invest in a custom-built, semi-permanent ramp.” That’s because temporary ramps are often wobbly, many dogs refuse to use them, and temporary ramps can slide out of position, injuring you or your dog. Several websites offer do-it-yourself construction plans for ramps and pet steps.

Depending on your dog’s condition, a ramp may be so steep that it stresses the spine or painful joints, in which case a large step arrangement may work better. For examples, see the Free Standing Foldable 2-Step Pet Stair by Pet Gear or the Pet Loader dog steps.

Look for a step or ramp that is easy for you to position, wide enough to be stable, sturdy enough to support your dog, and which has a durable nonskid surface. If the configuration is unfamiliar to your dog, introduce it gradually with plenty of rewards and encouragement.

Elevated Dog Bowls

We’re not usually fans of elevated bowls, because studies have shown that raised bowls can increase the risk of bloat in large breed and other susceptible dogs. For dogs with neck or spine injuries or osteoarthritis, however, elevated food and water bowls may help reduce pain (or anxiety about pain) from reaching down to eat or drink from low bowls. Some elevated bowls come with adjustable legs, so you can experiment to find the best height for your dog. Search online for “raised dog bowls” or “elevated feeding stations,” or ask your independent pet supply store to order one for you. The ProSelect Adjustable Dog Diner ($50 from Amazon) is an example.

Orthopedic Dog Beds and Bed Warmers

Beds are not really assistance devices, but they are important because our dogs spend most of their lives lying down. An uncomfortable bed can worsen a painful condition and interfere with restful sleep.

For mattress-shopping advice, see “The Best Orthopedic Dog Beds,” (March 2016), which describes nine leading orthopedic dog beds. Consider basic structure, mattress thickness, how much support the mattress provides, whether the cover is removable and washable, and whether your dog sleeps curled up in a snuggly ball or stretched in all directions. Whole Dog Journal recommends ignoring bed sizes defined by breed or weight. Instead, measure your dog from nose to tip of tail and from toe to the top of the shoulder. Then order a bed that’s at least 12 inches longer and wider than the dog’s measurements.

Bed warmers can provide warmth and comfort to aching joints. Examples include HipHugs, which are rice-filled blankets that can be warmed in a microwave and placed across your dog’s hips or joints, and Buddy Bags, a similar product from DogLeggs. Another similar product, the K&H Microwavable Pet Bed Warmer, is a neoprene bag filled with a nontoxic liquid that stays warm for hours after microwaving. It’s meant to be used inside a dog bed only.

Improving Foot Traction for Dogs

Sliding or skidding on a slippery surface is more than inconvenient; it can be a health hazard for older, three-legged, arthritic, or injured dogs.

CarpetSaver makes lightweight, nonskid, soft-fabric floor and carpet protectors that provide extra traction for pets and people. They come in different shapes, colors, and sizes, and are easy to move and machine washable. Placing yoga mats on a floor’s slippery areas is another way to improve traction.

Nonskid socks for dogs, which are similar to nonskid socks used by hospital patients, help dogs maintain their balance on wood, vinyl, and tile floors. For examples, see Drs. Foster & Smith Rubber Bottomed Knit Dog Socks, Ultra Paws Doggie Socks, or Power Paws by Woodrow Wear. A fabric paint or rubber material applied to the socks prevents slipping. Look for nonskid patterns that extend up the sides so that if the socks twist on your dog’s feet, they will still prevent slipping and sliding. Buying the right size is important because a too-large sock won’t stay on. Follow measuring instructions.

Disposable balloon socks, such as Pawz, are rubber socks that improve traction on slippery surfaces, but because they don’t breathe, they can trap moisture and lead to yeast infections if left on all day. For best results, remove them after exercise.

Dr. Busby’s ToeGrips are small, non-slip rings that fit over a dog’s toenails, adhere by friction, and grip the floor. ToeGrips work best on dogs who don’t drag their feet because of an injury or neurological disorder. Watch the before-and-after videos on the ToeGrips website!

Paw-Pads are nonskid adhesive bandages shaped to fit a dog’s paws. Because they are thin and allow the skin to breathe, dogs don’t usually notice them. These stick-on traction aids, which are said to stay in place from two to 10 days depending on weather and activity, are recommended for all dogs, including those with neurological deficits that cause feet to rotate. Available from Pupgear Corporation and other online retailers.

Rosin, a solid resin from pine and other evergreen trees, is used by tennis players and gymnasts to keep their hands from slipping. Rosin products for human athletes or sprays labeled for canine use, such as Bio-Groom Show Foot Professional Anti-Slip Spray, can be applied to your dog’s paw pads. Rosin has to be reapplied as needed and doesn’t protect as well as nonskid socks, but can be helpful for dogs who don’t like socks or keep taking them off.

Dogs with long hair between their toes lose traction, too, so keep the feet groomed by trimming foot hair as well as toenails.

Dog boots, as described in “The 4 Best Winter Dog Boots Out There,” (November 2016), provide warmth, traction, and protection from slippery ice, snow, and other outdoor hazards.

Body Lift Harnesses for Dogs

Sometimes dogs need help going up a flight of stairs, getting into a car, or just walking from one place to another. Support harnesses can make this job more convenient and comfortable for both you and your dog.

Some harnesses feature a single front handle while others have one at the shoulders and another above the hips. A front-handle harness takes care of most situations, but a two-handled harness helps dogs rise from a prone position and provides extra support on stairs, when getting into or out of vehicles, or when in pain because of hip dysplasia, illness, or injuries.

Ruffwear’s Web Master Harness is a single-handle harness designed to assist dogs up and over obstacles. According to Ruffwear’s website, the harness, which comes in two colors and five sizes, “is the preferred dog harness used by many avalanche rescue dog teams in the United States. This harness makes a great collar alternative and is ideal for hiking, scrambling, and mobility assistance.” This harness primarily supports the front end and middle of the dog. The Web Master harness sells for $60.

Ruffwear also makes a harness that adds support for the dog’s rear end. The Doubleback harness ($125) is meant for lifting and lowering dogs on mountain climbing adventures, so it’s strong and comfortable, and could certainly be used to support a dog who was wobbly on his legs. Ruffwear sells its products directly as well in select pet supply stores.

There are also a number of products made specifically for mobility support. The Help ‘Em Up Harness consists of separate front and back sections, each with a well-designed, comfortable handle. With 11 separate adjustments, it’s more complicated than most harnesses, but the website video, printed instructions, and fully assembled delivery make it easy to use as well as versatile.

I purchased a Help ‘Em Up Harness for a friend’s Labrador Retriever five years ago when he stayed with us in his old age, and later adjusted the same harness for my own Lab when a muscle injury made stair climbing painful. The Help ‘Em Up Harness comes in five sizes and offers two hip lift designs to accommodate male anatomy.

See more harnesses described in the Whole Dog Journal article “Orthopedic Equipment for Dogs Designed for Increased Mobility and Extra Support,” (March 2011).

Braces and Other Mobility Support Products for Dogs

Splints, wraps, braces, orthotics, and prosthetics can help dogs with disc disease, joint problems, cruciate ligament injuries, and other conditions that interfere with mobility. Most of these products are sold through veterinarians.

Thera-Paw Assistive and Rehabilitative Products include splints and wraps that support legs and joints.

The Woundwear A-Trac Dynamic Brace for dogs with cruciate ligament injuries was designed for use before, after, or instead of surgery to support and strengthen the leg.

Therapeutic Dog Hock and Leg Wraps from Back on Track are said to relieve pain and inflammation, help injuries heal, and ease arthritis pain.

Ortho Pets makes custom orthotic and prosthetic devices, including Hoppy and Wheelie Vests for dogs with or without the use of their front legs.

For dogs unable to use their hind legs, canine wheelchairs include:

Best Friend Mobility

Walkin’ Wheels

K9 Carts

HuggieCart Dog Wheelchairs

Eddie’s Wheels

For additional information see Handicapped Pets and Dog Mobility.

CJ Puotinen is the author of  The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books.

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A decade later I was asked to participate in the creation of a new animal assisted therapy (AAT) program at a local hospital’s physical-rehabilitation department. My service dog Peek, a 10-pound Papillon, enjoyed interacting with people without soliciting their attention, and he had become bombproof in public. It seemed like a perfect fit for both of us; he enjoyed active participation and tasks, and I enjoyed bringing laughter into the physical-therapy department.

Peek and I had been through therapy-dog training and testing with Pet Partners® and were registered and insured to do both Animal Assisted Activities (AAA) and Animal Assisted Therapy (AAT). In AAT, the dog is an actual part of the patient’s individual treatment plan as a clinical tool, and the dog’s work is documented and kept as part of the patient’s medical records.

Peek enjoyed visitation, but he really came to life when allowed to do more physically interactive exercises and use his growing skill set. Common service dog tasks – such as retrieving, holding items, carrying items from one person to another, pushing and pulling objects – all became skills the physical therapists (PTs) could use to help make therapy sessions more enjoyable, and break the monotony of repetitive exercises. PTs found that patients doing their exercises while interacting with dogs were much more motivated to attend, and actually looked forward to their therapy sessions. Patients worked more diligently and tried harder when working with a dog.

Dogs working in physical-therapy sessions can help patients increase their strength, balance, mobility, flexibility, memory sequencing, reflex response, range of motion, endurance, and gross motor skills. As one therapist said, “Dogs help the grumpiest patients play longer and more complex therapeutic games.”

Because Peek and I enjoyed canine freestyle (dancing with dogs), this activity gave me another skill to help reward extra efforts of the patients who liked dogs. I’d taught Peek to respond to either voice or hand signals. I would show the client how to give the signal for Peek to stand up on his hind legs and turn around in a circle: “Pretend your finger is a spoon and you are stirring your coffee.” Then I’d show them the hand signal for a quick drop into a down position. The patients loved to end up their therapy sessions with a bit of dog dancing and fast drops.

Memorable AAT Dog Clients

Peek and I assisted in the rehabilitation of dozens of patients with a range of physical challenges and treatment goals, including:

Jenna was recovering from a stroke, and needed to do lots of gross and fine motor skill exercises. Instead of just squeezing a soft foam ball while the therapist watched and counted the repetitions, Peek would hold the ball while Jenna got a good grip on it, then he would stand patiently while Jenna squeezed the ball 10 times; then Jenna would throw it for Peek to retrieve. Exercising with resistance was done by having Jenna and Peek play tug and release. The dog would hold steady pressure on the rope as many seconds as planned by the therapist, and I’d cue him to release when the exercise was finished. Those ball-squeezing, resistance, and ball-tossing exercises were a whole lot more interesting with a dog.

Jenna also had to do exercises to restore hand facilitation and strength. Learning to manipulate buttons, snaps, clasps, and zippers again was much more fun when she could put clothing on Peek, and fasten and unfasten the closures. She also enjoyed learning to grasp and move a brush, by brushing Peek and learning to stroke the brush on his hair in a rhythmic fashion. At the end of her first therapy session with Peek, she said, “I never looked forward to therapy before. Now I can’t wait to get here!”

Joe had suffered a head injury in a farm-equipment accident and had to learn to use his legs and arms again. A ranch hand, Joe used to be a horseshoe-tossing ace, and his favorite therapy exercise was tossing rubber rings onto a board affixed with wooden dowels to catch the rings. Instead of the therapist gathering the rings and taking them back to Joe to be tossed again, Peek became the ring gatherer, and brought each rubber ring back and placed it on Joe’s lap after it had been thrown. Joe stepped up his pace and worked hard to get those rings on the pegboard, because he loved watching Peek jump up to retrieve them.

Joe also needed to do balance and stretching exercises. The PT would give me positioning points, and Peek would stand quietly in that position, so that Joe could stretch toward and try to reach Peek’s back. Peek would be directed to move around Joe’s wheelchair at various positions and angles so that Joe could reach and stretch to each side and the front of his chair.

Mr. Jenkins was learning to walk again, and had graduated from wheelchair to walker. He would push the walker and take a couple of steps while holding onto the dog’s leash. Peek would adjust his pace to Mr. Jenkins’. Each time Mr. Jenkins would stop for a little rest, he’d reach over and pat the dog, and say, “Just give me a moment, boy, and we can go another lap down the hallway.” What was once just a boring exercise had become fun and interactive with the dog at his side.

Is This An Activity For You and Your Dog?

Which skills are needed to work in a physical-therapy department with your well-mannered, well-socialized dog? The dog should be able to work off-leash, and do basic loose leash walking on both sides of your body, as well as next to a wheelchair, walker, cane, or crutches.

A trip to a local senior center or hospital can offer many opportunities to help your dog gain confidence around medical equipment. You can work your dog outside, practicing sits, downs, and standing in position until cued to do another behavior. Automatic doors that whoosh open and close, people pushing IV poles on casters go by, wheelchairs, walkers, and crutches are also abundant. Vehicles may pull in at the door to unload passengers from lift-equipped vans. People will exhibit lurching gaits, and the scent of disinfectant, alcohol, and other chemicals used inside hospitals and rehab centers will waft through the doors and linger on patients’ clothing.

Working outside a hospital emergency room can condition your dog to sirens, people rushing, and carrying in people on gurneys. I like to bring along a tin pan of some type, a book, and an umbrella. Dropping the book and the pan, letting the dog get used to the thump and clatter that is a normal part of any hospital rehabilitation unit, is very helpful. Open and shut an umbrella in every possible place, so the dog gets used to quick changes in the appearance of objects. You may also use this to help teach directions – right, left, and around – in a stimulus-rich environment.

With so many people enjoying dog sports and other activities with their companion and competition dogs, it might be worth evaluating how any of your dog’s current repertoire of behaviors might be turned into a skill that could help motivate and engage people in a physical-therapy setting. Of course, a dog with a good retrieve will always be in high demand, as there are so many ways to integrate retrieval games into physical-therapy exercise plans.

You can always start with core canine good citizen behaviors and refine and shape new behaviors as needed. A dog working in any AAA or AAT setting should be comfortable with people of all ages, sizes, cultures, and races, and not be stressed by busy, noisy environments.

A calm, relaxed, friendly dog who can walk on a loose leash and be comfortable being handled, groomed, and interacting with strangers will have what it takes to start a career as an animal-assisted physical-therapy dog. The dogs who already have obedience or rally skills will be in high demand. Off-leash work is also highly coveted. It’s a chance to show off your dog’s skills while doing something to help others. It can be as nourishing and fun for the dog and handler as it is for the patients who are fortunate enough to get to work with them.

Attributes of an AAT Dog

A great animal assisted therapy (AAT) dog can be of any breed or mix of breeds, and either sex. What’s important is that the dog is able to respectfully interact with all people without exhibiting stress. I’ve worked along side 3-pound Yorkies and 180-pound Mastiffs. Some patients will prefer to work with smaller dogs and some with larger ones. There will always be people who are not comfortable interacting with certain breeds, no matter how friendly and well mannered the dog may be. I recall a Holocaust survivor who loved dogs, and wanted to be part of the AAT physical therapy program, but was uncomfortable working with any dog resembling a German Shepherd, because it reminded her of the dogs used in the concentration camps. Some people view bully breeds as threatening, and others have been bitten by small dogs and cannot relax in their presence. It’s important that the handler not take it personally if a patient is uncomfortable working with a specific type of dog.

The personality of the AAT dog requires a dog who is comfortable being handled and interacting with people of all races, cultures, sexes, and ages. The dog should be friendly, sociable, and reliable in distracting environments. In addition, the AAT dog must be able to interact comfortably with other dogs (and sometimes cats!) working in the same room. The therapy room can get quite congested at times, so the dog should be able to remain calm and focused in crowded areas.

While AAT dogs should be friendly and sociable, the dog should also have acceptable public behaviors, and not sniff, jump, lick, paw at people, or coerce attention. The dog must also be confident enough to be handled awkwardly, and be comfortable being touched on all parts of the body.

The handler’s communication with the dog is equally important. Because physical-therapy dogs often work off-leash, the handler directs the interaction with the patient, and will cue the dog from different positions. The dog-handler relationship is one of trust, and the dog will be expected to interact with a stranger as directed by the handler, under the physical therapist’s guidance. Just as the dog is expected to remain focused on the tasks at hand, the handler must remain focused on the dog, and ready to give a cue to change from one behavior to another.

The more behaviors the dog has on cue, the more creative the therapist can be in including the dog in the patient’s treatment plan. Being able to respond to direction changes, position changes, sits, downs, and doing retrievals is extremely helpful. However, it’s not mandatory.

If your dog has good manners, is comfortable being handled and interacting with new people, isn’t stressed around medical equipment or crowds, and responds to basic obedience cues, then the dog may well enjoy doing AAT work.

It’s a team effort, however. The handler is as important as the dog, and should know how to read her dog’s stress signals and know when the dog may need a short break to just relax, sniff outside and eliminate. Though therapy sessions are normally only a couple of hours at most, it’s intensive concentration for both the dog and handler. Knowing your dog’s needs sets up both the handler and dog for success.

Debi Davis is a retired professional calligrapher and service-dog trainer. She is a former faculty member of Clicker Expo, and has presented at service-dog training seminars and workshops.  Debi is an advocate for reward-based training, and enjoys being an informal ambassador of goodwill in the service-dog and disability communities. She currently lives in Las Vegas with her husband and service dog in training.

The post How Your Dog Can Help with Physical Therapy appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

I’ve yet to meet a dog owner who does not have at least one embarrassing story to share, of an unguarded moment in time, when in a public place, his or her dog acted in a socially inappropriate way.

Part of learning is making mistakes, and as trainers or companion dog owners, we learn to survive those “oops” moments. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t times when we wish we could don a cloak of invisibility.

As a now-retired service dog trainer, I’ve spent countless field trips teaching my dogs to work comfortably and reliably in public environments. We teach service dogs to respond appropriately in places where pets are not allowed; obviously, we also teach them to display appropriate behaviors in public places as well. Our wonderful canine companions help us with many tasks as we accomplish our errands and work, but they must also behave appropriately during our leisure actitivities in public, such as when we meet a friend for a cup of coffee at an outdoor café, attend an art festival, or enjoy a festive picnic in a park.

It happens when we least expect it: Our dog is standing quietly by our side on a loose leash, ignoring distractions, when he suddenly unloads his bladder while waiting at a crosswalk for a light to change, splattering shoes of other people also waiting to cross the street.

We might be browsing items in a booth at an outdoor art festival with our dog standing or sitting quietly at our side, and our attention is drawn away from our dog for a moment. In the single second we take our eyes off our dog, he swivels his head and sticks his nose into another shopper’s crotch, inhaling dreamily. Though we instantly cue the dog to focus on us again, it’s too late. The crotch sniffer has already goosed his gander.

We may have thought we’d adequately prepared for these kinds of responses by allowing our dog ample time to “empty out” before going into stimulus-rich environments, and we may have practiced “leave it” in as many diverse environments as possible. But sometimes, especially with young, more easily distracted dogs, the occasional “oops” will inevitably happen when we least expect it.

It’s Not a Criticism, Just Information

I chalk these moments up to “learning experiences” for the trainer/handler, and see it as simply helpful “information” – a hint that we need to be more vigilant and proactive during future training outings. It’s also a chance to suck up our embarrassment, and learn to laugh through the red-faced moments. We learn along with our dogs – our greatest teachers.

When I was a novice service-dog trainer/handler, my first service dog was a 10-pound Papillon named Peek. He was nearing the end of his first year of training, well on the way to becoming a very reliable service dog, and was generally extremely well mannered in public. I knew the first rule of public access-training was to never take your eye off your dog for very long, and to always be aware of your dog’s body at any given time.

Peek was becoming so reliable in stores, never sniffing nor soliciting attention from other shoppers, that I began to relax my guard a bit; honestly, I became somewhat complacent. Inside a craft store, I focused more on the craft items I wanted to buy that day, and too little on the fact that my dog was still learning lessons in appropriate public behaviors.

Stopping at one aisle for a few minutes, I lost my focus on my dog, gathering items to put in my lap basket as I rolled through the store in my wheelchair. I’d occasionally glance down at my dog, but he remained nicely in a heel position, so I kept shopping. Finding my last item, I headed to the cashier’s counter and put my items on the conveyer belt. When the cashier had scanned all the items in my lap basket, she paused, smiled, and said, “I’m just waiting for your last item, ma’am.”

I looked down at my lap, thinking perhaps something had come out of my basket and was between my legs or stuck between my leg and the seat of the chair, but I saw nothing. I looked back up at the cashier in bafflement. She whispered, “Your service dog is carrying your last item, ma’am.”

Knowing I hadn’t asked him to hold anything, I looked down, this time looking at his head, not just seeing that his body was parallel to the wheels of my power chair. I didn’t notice that though he had stayed in perfect heel position, he had a death grip on a white rabbit pelt, which he’d somehow pilfered off a bottom shelf when I wasn’t paying attention. It was now clamped securely between his chops, dripping with ropy drool.

Horribly embarrassed, I tried to cover by saying, “Oh, I’m so very sorry – I completely forgot about that item.” I cued Peek to release the item into my hand. Peek released the item to me, and never moved, but he drilled a hole through that rabbit pelt with his eyes, willing it back into his mouth.

Holding the pelt by two fingers, I try to wipe it off with a couple of wadded-up tissues, but it was hopeless. That ropy, sticky drool was embedded in the thick white rabbit pelt. The cashier looked at the dripping pelt, grimaced, and said, “That’s okay, ma’am. You just read the numbers to me and I’ll key it in manually instead of scanning it.” No way was she touching that slimy object.

It was a sobering moment to realize my inattention had allowed my dog to shoplift an item from a store. Yes, it was back to “Dog Zen” and refining the dog’s ability to bypass the urge to sniff and pilfer items he had not been asked to carry.

Beware the Rewarding Environment

Another time, when I lived in the Sonoran desert, I had a 6-month-old puppy named “Dandy,” a young service-dog hopeful. For desert dogs, water is an excellent primary reinforcer. After a nice down-stay or a sit, a cupful of water is a most coveted reward. Dandy, however, was a duck-in-training. Papillon by birth, he seemed to be more waterfowl or fish by nature.

On our river walk that day, the green Palo Verde trees on the newly landscaped path were being watered by effluent -recycled water used for irrigation. It’s common in the desert for landscapers to dig moats around the trees for the water to pool up and gradually soak into the hard, desert sand and clay soil.

Young Dandy trotted along next to my wheelchair on a loose long leash, as it was a relaxing “sniff and jog” trip, and he’d stop every few bushes to hike a leg and post a pee-mail message.

Suddenly, Dandy darted to the left, pulling the long leash loose from my hands as he spotted the irrigation sprinklers pop up and spurt fountains of water up into the air around a tree.

Before I could get “Dandy, COME!” out of my mouth, he’d jumped into the water, and started swimming around the tree, wrapping the leash twice around the thin tree trunk. Dandy looked up, shook off (standing in water that was over his belly), and tried to move toward me, but he could only walk a few steps before the securely wrapped leash stopped him.

He began swimming back and forth, paddling water, ducking his head, lifting it out of the water, shaking his head and diving his head back under the water again. He looked like a mallard duck in training.

I realized I had no choice but to slide out of my wheelchair and crawl across the dirt and cacti, into the moat of muddy water, to untangle his leash. I crawled from my chair to the water’s edge, and slid into the waist-deep effluent and attempted to untangle the leash.

Happy for a playmate, Dandy snapped at the fountains of water coming out of the irrigation tubes, then rolled over, submerging his body, and leapt up like a dolphin to grab another sip, vaulting over the top of the rubber tube. Clearly, this was the best water park he’d ever seen.

Dandy was happily barking at the spurting water as I laughed heartily while unclipping the leash from the top of his harness. I giggled out the recall cue and Dandy swam toward me, glad to be unfettered. Reaching me, he climbed up onto my lap, leapt over my shoulder and dove back into the water.

We splashed each other with water until we were both covered with mud, and I have to admit that on that 100 degree day, it felt mighty refreshing.

A lone, perspiring jogger dashed by, tipped his baseball cap at us, and quipped, “Nice day for a swim, isn’t it?”

New Behaviors

I had a lovely Border Collie named Finn, a change-of-career dog. He was a gift from Virginia (Broitman) Dare, after I lost my service dog Peek prematurely from congestive heart failure. Virginia thought that all Finn’s past media work for print and video could easily transfer over to service work with just a bit of tweaking to turn a trick into a task.

Finn was used to crowds, noisy equipment, bright lights, and lots of people scurrying around. Nothing much fazed him.

When Virginia delivered him to me, we went for a training outing at a local casino here in Las Vegas. Finn flawlessly pressed handicapped door openers, picked up trash and put it in the trash bins, did nice sits and downs for extended periods, and ignored all the distracting food treats we’d thrown on the floor to test him.

I’d spent a decade using a different set of cue words and phrases for my own service dog. Virginia wrote down as many words and phrases she could think of that were already in his repertoire, admitting she could not remember them all. I cued Finn to pick up his leash, accidentally using my own default cue phrase of “Get your leash.” Finn’s cue for that behavior was “Take it.” Finn had never heard my particular cue words coupled together, but he knew “Get your. . . .” And he filled in the blank with a behavior he thought I might have meant.

 He reached back, picked up his left rear leg, and held it in his mouth. Virginia and I broke out in laughter at my miscued directive, and we couldn’t stop laughing while Finn stood there holding his left leg in his mouth. He remembered a behavior he’d once been taught years prior, of “get your leg.”

 In moments, a crowd had gathered, watching in amazement as this dog stood there holding his back leg and beckoning us with his eyes for the release cue. New handler error! And of course, there was a nice reward for the problem-solving dog who had no fear of trying new behaviors, as he’d been shaped regularly to think up compound cues and adduction.

 As trainers, handlers or companion-dog owners, we all have experienced those moments of enjoying the ecstasy and enduring the agony. But it’s also a journey filled with unexpected mirth and great lessons, which makes every outing fresh and original.

Debi Davis is a retired professional calligrapher and service dog trainer. She is a former faculty member of Clicker Expo, and has presented at service dog training seminars and workshops. Peek, her first service dog, was a 1999 National Service Dog of the Year and participated in animal assisted therapy in a hospital rehabilitation department. Davis and Peek carried the Olympic torch during the Salt Lake City Games. Debi is an advocate for reward-based training, and enjoys being an informal ambassador of goodwill in the service dog and disability communities. She currently lives in Las Vegas, NV, with her husband and service dog in training, Cooper. 

The post Productive Ways to Train Your Dog appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

1. Fetch the Newspaper

Of course there’s the old standby of bringing in the newspaper. Trainer Clarissa Bergeman, CPDT, owner of In Canine Company, in Round Hill, Virginia, enjoyed sharing a walk down the driveway with Anny, her Pembroke Welsh Corgi, to get the newspaper or the mail. Anny was always happy to carry the paper or a magazine on the walk back. Anny is gone now, but Bergeman’s new Corgi, Simon, is learning the task in her stead.

2. Sort Laundry

I thought this one might be particularly up my 8-year-old Scorgidoodle’s (Bonnie) alley, since she loves to hold soft things in her mouth. In fact, I often have to search Bonnie’s crate for socks; if she finds any lying on the floor, she stashes them in her bed.

Since dogs are partially color-blind, it’s probably too much to expect she could sort clothes by color herself, so I started by placing an article of laundry in each of several spots that I named accordingly: Whites, Jeans, Brights (pronounced “Buh-rights,” to help distinguish it from “Whites”), and Towels. The piles were generously far apart at first (six to eight feet between) so I could point to the proper pile without confusing her. I started by handing her a piece of clothing from the basket, gave the cue, pointed to the appropriate pile, and moved with her to the spot. Then I gave her the “Trade” cue, and when she dropped the item on the pile to “trade” for a treat, I clicked my clicker (one could also use a verbal reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”, to indicate that she performed the desired behavior) and gave her a treat.

I quickly faded my movement toward the appropriate pile, finding that the pointing gesture alone sufficed to send her to the proper spot. The “Trade” cue prompted her to drop the item, and a click-treat brought her back to me for the next piece of laundry. We just started this recently, so it’s still a work in progress. Our next step will be to fade the pointing gesture and see if she can identify the proper pile with just a verbal cue.

3. Close Doors

Susan Giordano, CPDT, owner of K9U in Atlanta, Georgia, taught her dog Potter to close the refrigerator, pantry door, and any cabinets that are open. Potter will also fetch a towel so Susan can wipe off the counters. Susan says when they are finished with the chores, they dance!

It’s relatively simple to teach your dog to close doors. Begin by teaching her to target with her nose or paw (hint: using your dog’s nose to close doors rather than a paw reduces the likelihood of scratches to the finish). Offer the palm of your hand to your dog at her nose level. When she sniffs it, click (or say “Yes!”) and treat. Repeat until she eagerly bumps her nose into your hand, and then add the cue “Touch!” as you offer your palm. (If she thinks your offered palm is the cue for “Shake” try the back of your hand, or offer her the knuckles of your closed fist.)

When you are confident she understands the “Touch” cue, hold a plastic lid (such as the top to a tub of cottage cheese or yogurt) in your hand and ask her to touch that. First hold it so it covers your palm, then eventually hold it by the edge.

When she will touch the lid reliably, attach it to a door or drawer with double-stick tape or rubber cement and cue her to touch it there. You may need to start with your hand near the lid and gradually fade the presence of your hand. When she reliably targets her nose to the lid, shape for more powerful touches until she touches hard enough to close the door or drawer. (For tips on using a target stick to teach this behavior, see “Utilize Target Training,” January 2007.)

4. Pick Up Trash

Lots of dogs have been taught to pick up their own toys and put them away in a basket designated for that purpose. Dana Ebbecke, one of the trainers at My Pet’s Teacher in Horsham, Pennsylvania, suggests a variation on that behavior: teaching your dog to pick up trash and put it in a garbage can. This is a perfect behavior to “backchain” – where you teach the last piece of the behavior first, and build the chain backward from there.

Offer your dog a piece of trash (that she won’t want to eat) directly over the center of a garbage can and say “Take it!” When she takes it, praise her, then cue her to “Drop.” If she already knows a “Drop” cue, she will drop the trash and it will fall in the can. Click (or use another reward marker) and treat. If she doesn’t know the “Drop” cue yet, say “Drop” and offer her a treat. When she opens her mouth for the treat the trash will fall in the can. Click and treat.

When the “Drop” is working over the center of the garbage can, move the trash slightly to one side, but still over the can, and cue the “Drop.” If it falls into the can, click and treat. If it misses, say “Oops!” and try it again. Gradually move the “training trash” farther from the center of the can, until it’s no longer even over the can. You are helping the dog understand that she needs to move it back over the middle of the can to make sure it falls inside, not outside the can.

When she can bring the trash that you hand her to the can from some distance, start offering it to her closer to the ground, so she understands she has to lift it up and move it to the can. Finally, place the trash on the ground, and add your “Pick up the trash!” cue before you say “Take it!” In fairly short order you should be able to fade the “Take it!” cue and your “Pick up the trash!” should prompt her to pick up that item and drop it in the can.

Now you’ll need to generalize the cue to a variety of different trash items. Make sure you don’t leave valuable objects on the floor when you ask her to pick up the trash! You can’t expect her to make good judgment calls about what is trash and what is treasure; your smart phone could end up in the garbage.

Ebbecke suggests adding to the “Wow! factor” of this behavior by using a garbage can with a push-pedal lid, and teaching your dog to step on the lid to open the can before she drops the trash in. (Just don’t teach this one to a dog who is likely to help herself to items in the can rather than putting more trash there.)

5. Pick Up/Find/Bring

The “seek back” used to be a behavior performed in advanced obedience competition. You walked around the ring and, when cued by the judge, dropped an item, such as a glove. Your dog was supposed to continuing heeling with you until you stopped and gave him the cue to, go back, get it, and bring it back to you. Very useful!

It’s relatively simple to get your dog to pick up something you just dropped. Your “Pick it up!” cue (from “pick up the trash”) can generalize to anything you indicate you want your dog to pick up – and it sure beats stooping over to get it yourself.

Just think how even more useful it would be if your dog could search for and find, by name, items you’ve misplaced such as your car keys, the TV remote, your cell phone, or your glasses. I realized many years ago how capable dogs are at finding lost stuff when our wonderful Terrier-mix, Josie, found our missing tortoise without even being trained to do so.

I didn’t realize I had taught Josie to associate the word “Turtle” with Fred and Wilma, the two yellow-footed tortoises we had adopted from the shelter where I worked at the time. But apparently I had. One day I couldn’t find Fred. I frantically searched the yard, repeating aloud to myself, “Where’s the turtle?” I eventually realized that Josie was coming to me, and then running to the spot where Fred had fallen behind a retaining wall. Because of that amazing little dog, Fred was found, safe and sound.

Chaser, the brilliant Border Collie and subject of multiple cognition studies, now knows the names of more than 1,000 objects, and can retrieve them by name.  Surely your dog can learn the names of a handful of objects, then learn to find them for you when they go missing.

You’ve probably already taught her some, simply by using object names in your conversations with her. “Fetch the ball!” “Go to your bed.” “Get in the car.” So it’s not a stretch to think you can teach her more.

Use your targeting cue, followed by the name of the object. Hold the TV remote in your hand and say “Touch, Remote.” Click (or say “Yes!”) and treat when she does it. Hold your car keys and say “Touch, Keys.” Click and treat. Then place them on a table or floor (one at a time) and do the same. When you’ve done it several times with each item individually, place both on the floor six to eight feet apart, stand six to eight feet away, and ask her to touch one. If she gets the right one, click, treat and party! If she goes to the wrong one, cheerfully say “Oops!” and try again.

If she gets more misses than hits, go back to working with just one object at a time for a while, then try again. Eventually teach her the names of other objects you’d like her to be able to find for you.

When she’s identifying the correct object at least 80 percent of the time, start adding the “Find it!” element. If you’ve already done nose games with your dog, this will be easy as pie. Just as you have been doing already, place one of the objects on the floor in plain view and say “Find Remote!” When she goes over and sniffs it, click and treat. She found it! Repeat several times.

Now start hiding it. First have her sit and wait, and let her watch you hide it in a very easy place. Return to her side and cue, “Find Remote!” When she goes to where it is, click and treat. If you want to teach her a “tell” – a behavior she performs to tell you she found it – start asking her for that behavior when she locates the object. You could have her sit or lie down at the spot where the item was, or she could come back to you and touch you with her paw to let you know she found it, then lead you to it.

Gradually hide objects in harder and harder places, and eventually hide them when she isn’t watching and then ask her to find them. The final step is to have her find things when you’ve really lost them.

You can even take this one step further by teaching her the names of family members and having her find them. Just as you did with objects, have your human hide first in easy places, then harder and harder. If, heaven forbid, a family member is ever truly lost, your dog can join in the search!

6. Reveille

Now that you’ve taught your dog the names of family members, you might as well make every day use of it. Send her to wake up family members who are sleeping in too long. Teach her to pull the covers off the sleepyheads! Have her deliver messages to the kids – carried in her mouth or attached to her collar. Ask her to bring everyone to the table at dinnertime. The sky’s the limit!

Unexpected Help

A dog trainer friend, Deborah Lee Miller-Riley, from Monroe, Connecticut, posted this on her Facebook wall, just as I was writing this article. It’s a great testimonial for the value of teaching your dog a few general purpose helping behaviors. Miller-Riley wrote:

“This morning I attempted to change a small latch on a screen door. I was standing on a 4-foot high front porch, which is bordered by 6-foot high bushes. In my clumsy attempt to screw in the small metal bracket, it flipped out of my hands and landed under the bushes next to the house – a place I would have great difficulty reaching.

“So I called for Rivets, my service-dog-in-training. I showed her a short pathway to the spot where the item fell and told her to ‘Bring,’ her cue to seek and bring something back to my hand. The object would have my fresh scent on it and would most likely stand out to her like a bright color to us. She went right into the bushes, nosed around and pawed at the object. I said, ‘Yes, bring!’ She picked it up, crawled out and delivered it to my hand. She is such a cool dog, her mind and willingness astonishes me. I completed my door repair after a treat fest with my little paw-hero.”

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for dog trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training.

The post Teach Your Dog to Help With Chores Around the House appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

The authors, Rita Martinez and Sue Barns, are among those who have pioneered diabetic alert dog (DAD) training and protocols. Along with assisting clients in training their dogs, Martinez is a frequent speaker with trainer groups and service dog organizations looking to learn more about training DADs. Barns is an experienced service dog trainer, and the founder of the Diabetic Alert Dog program at Assistance Dogs of the West.

With clicker training protocols throughout, the authors’ positive methods match the positive tone of the book. They recommend that individuals with diabetes work with a qualified service dog trainer rather than try to train on their own. However, the training advice is so clear that even a novice trainer could follow the steps and practice the basics between sessions. And for the rest of us training enthusiasts, it is simply fascinating to learn the steps involved in training a medical alert dog.

One of the things I liked best about this book is the support it shows for the diabetic alert dog, or any service dog for that matter. While showing great sensitivity and respect for the needs of the person, this book is also clear that only a dog who enjoys the job should ever be doing this work. The authors emphasize partnership and appropriate job matches.

The book defines the most important qualities  a dog must have to become a DAD. Among those are that a DAD must be easygoing, naturally resilient, and confident in all settings to be considered for public access partnership (the type of service dog that accompanies the person everywhere). The book also says that it is unfair to require a dog to be in situations where he is not comfortable. Although I would have loved to have seen even more on the actual training for public access, realistically that is beyond the scope of this focused book.

Martinez and Barns bring a combined 50 years experience in dog training – and it shows in Training Your Diabetic Alert Dog. They have written a book that shares their experience and provides a terrific resource for anyone wishing to learn more about the process of DAD training.

This book is available through createspace.com/4157849, as well as Amazon and other book retailers. – Mardi Richmond

The post Book Review: Training Your Diabetic Alert Dog appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

No one knows this better than Sisi Belcher, whose dog Nicolina has sounded the alarm on more than a few occasions. Perhaps the most dramatic happened one time when Belcher was at work.

Nicolina had accompanied Belcher to her office, which was at the police department on a university campus. Keeping blood glucose in the proper range is a constant challenge for someone with Type 1 diabetes. If Belcher failed to respond to an alert or was having a problem, Nicolina had been known to go to Belcher’s coworkers for help. On this particular day, however, Belcher was alone in the office when her blood glucose crashed. Nicolina likely looked for help from the usual coworkers, but when she couldn’t find anyone, this resourceful dog took matters into her own paws.

Nicolina traveled down the hallway of the building and ended up at a break room where a group of police officers were hanging out. The officers quickly assessed the situation: What was Nicolina doing there alone? Where was Belcher? They went to investigate, knowing something must be wrong. The police officers found Belcher unable to respond, but, thanks to Nicolina’s efforts, they were able to call for medical assistance and Belcher received the help she needed.

Only Nicolina knows exactly what went through her mind that particular day, but it is evident that this diabetic alert dog was creative and resourceful, and took her job as a tattletale dog very seriously.

A DOG ON THE JOB
Fortunately, and in most cases, a diabetic alert dog (also called a DAD) can alert the person before outside medical intervention is needed. In fact, one of the advantages of living with a DAD is that they can often detect changes in blood glucose well before it registers on a blood glucose meter or continuous glucose monitor.

Martinez says that over the years, the experiences of people who are paired with a DAD show that dogs generally detect and alert to raises or drops in blood glucose 15 to 30 minutes before the changes show up on a meter.

“That means [people with diabetes] can act on correcting their blood glucose level sooner, before it gets as far out of range,” says Martinez. Treating glucose fluctuations sooner means better disease control and may help protect against the eye, brain, and kidney damage that is so often caused by diabetes. Most people who live with a DAD have improved management of their disease.

Dogs cannot replace the other interventions and support a person with diabetes must use, but a DAD does offer another option. Belcher notes that Nicolina has alerted her many times before the meter registered changes. As Belcher watches her dog, she says, “Just look at her nose. It is always going.”

ALL ABOUT THE NOSE
Just how can a DAD beat out a glucose meter? Scientists are not entirely sure why, but when a person’s blood glucose changes, it creates a specific scent or odor. This scent surrounds the person and is found in breath, saliva, and sweat. The change in scent is easily detected by a dog’s amazing sense of smell, and with more than 220 million scent receptors (as opposed to the mere 5 million that people have) recognizing odor is a natural job for a dog. A diabetic alert dog, however, does more than just recognize the odor. A DAD is trained to provide a clear sign, called an alert, whenever the odor is present. He can show if glucose is high or low, and most DADs are also trained to go find help if the person does not respond.

The protocol that Martinez uses and describes in Training Your Diabetic Alert Dog begins by teaching the dog the alert first, before any scent work is added into the training. Using clicker training methods, each dog is taught a specific initial alert behavior (often a nose nudge for larger dogs or a soft pawing action for smaller dogs). Each dog is also taught two additional signals: one for high glucose and one for low glucose.

For example, a dog may nose-nudge the person’s leg to indicate there is a scent change. This is the initial alert signal. Then the person being alerted can present a flat hand and the dog may nudge the hand upward for high glucose and downward for low glucose. Martinez recommends that the dog’s handler choose alert and signal behaviors that a dog can easily do anywhere, at any time.

Once the alert and high and low signals are completely reliable and on a verbal cue, only then does the scent work begin. To teach the dog how to recognize the odor, a sample of saliva can be taken during a high or low glucose period. The samples can be kept in a freezer and brought out for training sessions. To start off, the dog is presented with the sample, and is rewarded when he recognizes the scent. Martinez calls this the imprinting step and says that dogs will generally learn to recognize the scent very quickly, over a few short sessions.

Once the dog knows the alert behavior and has imprinted on the scent, then he is trained using an alert chain. The alert chain in training may look like:

Dog recognizes the scent; the person gives a verbal cue for the alert behavior; the dog performs the alert behavior; the person clicks and treats.

Quickly, the dog will begin to pair the scent as the cue for the alert behavior. The scent becomes the environmental cue for that behavior. The chain, once established, will transform to:

Dog recognizes the scent; the dog offers the alert without being asked; the person then clicks and treats.

Training, of course, does not stop here. DADs need to learn to offer the alert spontaneously, not just when they are “playing the game” and training cues are present. The high and low signals can be added to the chain. The dogs must learn to do the alert and signals in a variety of situations, such as in public and in a car. They must learn that alerting is important even when they are playing. They must learn to wake up and alert at night.

There are many steps to training a DAD to understand that giving the alert reliably and in every situation is what will earn them a reward. Martinez emphasizes that it is a labor-intensive process, and you need to take your time in order to have a dog who both loves his job and does it consistently and accurately.

DOG’S REWARD?
For the person, having a dog to help with disease management is an obvious reward. And, for the dog lover, getting to spend 24/7 with his or her dog is an added bonus.

But what about the dog? Being a DAD is hard work. DADs must be aware all of the time. They must sometimes leave something they are enjoying to offer an alert.

Like any dog, the reward is a critical part of the job. In order for a DAD to be reliable, the “paycheck” must be very valuable and it must be given generously. For Nicolina, that paycheck comes in the form of a hot dog.

“She will do anything for a hot dog,” says Belcher.

But the paycheck is only one piece of what drives a DAD to do the job. Belcher and Martinez agree that the bond that forms between the handler and the dog is also part of the motivation puzzle. Both person and dog benefit from this tight relationship, and like any good relationship, it just grows stronger over time. But there is another piece that really makes this a special kind of work for a dog.
“These dogs love their job, they are thrilled they are able to do it,” said Martinez. “A dog using his nose is one of the most natural things there is. For them to be able to do it, and have fun, and make someone happy – well, there is nothing better.” But Martinez also emphasizes that this is not a job every dog will take to and you cannot force a dog to perform it.

“He has to want to do it,” says Martinez. All dogs have the nose to be alert dogs, but for a really reliable DAD, the dog must also want to do it and enjoy doing it. Much the way a herder loves to move sheep, a DAD must love to recognize odor and play the alert game.

DIFFERENT FROM OTHER SCENTING DOGS
DADs and other medical alert dogs are recognizing scent, but they do so in a much different way than your typical search and rescue dog, law enforcement dog, or even a dog who enjoys the sport of nose work.

Searching for a missing person, a cadaver, drugs, or the birch oil used in the sport of nose work all involve the handler giving a cue first, and the dog searching for the scent second. Dogs that search know when they are on duty, and have plenty of time in their life when they are not on duty.
A DAD must be on the lookout for the scent at all times. The DAD must take initiative and announce (tattle) when the scent is present. They don’t have the benefit of the handler saying: There is something for you to find here. Go look.

Another thing a DAD must do is to keep pushing, even if you dismiss or do not listen. They are trained to continue alerting until someone listens (and they are given their reward).

THE LIFE-SKILLS OF A GREAT DAD
The enthusiasm that makes for a great DAD is something that can be encouraged, but the dog has to possess the right personality traits to start with. Martinez says that the type of dog who does well as a DAD is alert enough to recognize the scent and act on it independently, without any prompts.

Like all service animals, a DAD who is certified for public access must also have a comfort level with odd situations and be secure enough not to need to investigate new places, people, or animals.

A DAD has to be a dog who naturally walks that fine line between too much enthusiasm (some would call it drive) and not enough enthusiasm. A good DAD candidate is a thinking dog who feels confident when she needs to take initiative, but does so in a calm manner.

Nicolina, by all casual appearances, is a typical low-key yellow Lab. She kicks back, resting quietly at a coffee house. She can hang out with Belcher at work all day. She is comfortable with other animals and loves children. She travels through airports and is not fazed by the screening or security. But once she is on the scent, she becomes insistent and determined. And that balance of persistence and calm is what makes a DAD do her job well.

For example, when Nicolina smells or detects a change in Belcher’s scent, she will sit in front of Belcher and stare intently. This is her first alert. If Belcher does not respond, Nicolina ups the ante to a nudge. If Belcher still does not respond, Nicolina will bark at her, and if there is still no response, Nicolina will calmly find Belcher’s husband, coworker, or another helper.

FINDING A DAD
A DAD can be any type of dog, as long as he has the right personality for the job. A calm, friendly terrier or a Lab with enthusiasm will both enjoy the job of a DAD. You can start with a puppy but a well-socialized rescue dog with the right personality can be just as good a candidate. You can train a dog yourself, with the help of a qualified service dog trainer. Or you can choose to find a dog through a service dog program.

Getting a dog from a service dog program is a good option for some people. The program trains the dog first, and then trains you how to live with the dog. The advantages are that you get dogs that have a proven record of enjoying the job and that have been public access certified. The disadvantages are that there is often a long waiting list, there may be some restrictions regarding the placement of the dog, and the organization may retain ownership of the dog. Some organizations provide DADs free to a qualified person; but others charge a lot of money for a trained dog.

Whether you want to get a dog from an organization or train one yourself with the help of a qualified service dog trainer, always do your due diligence. Check out the trainer or the organization carefully. Ask how long they have been doing it, look into their reputation (not just what they say on their website), and check references.

The advantages of working privately with a trainer include that you will have the opportunity to bond during the socialization and training phase, and you will learn from the process how to keep your dog’s skills up. And a reputable service dog trainer will have the same stringent requirements and certification for public access that an organization should possess.

The disadvantage is that you won’t have confirmation of your puppy or adult dog’s aptitude until about four months into the process; will the dog you have really want to do this job? Martinez says that it can be difficult to find just the right dog, one who wants to do the job, but is also naturally relaxed. If your dog does not pass the “want to” test, or for some other reason is not the right dog for the job, will you be able, emotionally, to place her in a good home and start again?

Either way, getting a dog via a service organization or working with a private trainer to train your own dog, you will need to continue the foundation training throughout your dog’s life. Belcher says that she and Nicolina practice the public access behaviors and alert behaviors every day, and they get recertified once a year.

LIVING WITH A DAD
Martinez says that living with a service dog is not for everyone. The DAD will become someone who accompanies you everywhere. They are not tools or servants, but life partners. They will also become someone whose needs are equal to your own as you go through your day.
Living with a DAD will take your time and energy and add another expense. Your entire family will be impacted. If you have other pets in the house, they will also be affected.

One of the most important requirements for living with a DAD is meeting his  need to be a dog and engage in dog activities. For example, Belcher works hard to make sure that Nicolina has plenty of opportunity to enjoy life. Nicolina, says Belcher, is a fun-loving and social dog. She enjoys greeting people, playing with her Wubba Wubba toy, chasing a Frisbee, and long walks.

Living with a DAD, Belcher says, will change your life dramatically. If you love dogs, the walking and playing will be enjoyable. For a person living with a DAD, the public access requirement may bring the biggest rewards and also some of the biggest challenges, says Belcher. You will become a walking billboard that says: I have a medical problem.

“Nicolina draws a lot of attention,” says Belcher. “You have to be very patient with people.” Belcher says when you live with a DAD, you have to be comfortable with strangers knowing there is a reason you need a service dog and asking questions about your medical condition and about your dog.
Belcher says she sometimes feels like a public educator. She also acknowledges that there are rare times when she just doesn’t want to talk with or educate strangers. But she’s also had some wonderful conversations from interactions that some might consider an intrusion. She’s been able to let other diabetics know about DADs as partners, and about some of the medical studies and treatments that she’s participated in.

Martinez says that it is also not uncommon for a person who has a service dog to be discriminated against. It is illegal to prevent access to people with service dogs, but not all business owners and landlords know this. It is sometimes necessary for a person to insist on her right to public access. Being assertive and comfortable speaking up is helpful if you live with any type of service dog.

Martinez emphasizes that it is very important to respect a person’s right to have a dog to aid him or her with a disability. And, while most people who approach to talk with the person or pet the dog mean well, it is still an intrusion. It is important to be sensitive and not distract service dogs.

FIRST AND FOREMOST, DADS ARE DOGS
Martinez and Belcher both emphasize that having a dog will not fix your diabetes, or make you better. Dogs are not perfect. They make mistakes or may miss a signal. Belcher is quick to point out that people also make mistakes and that the equipment used for checking and monitoring glucose is not perfect either.

It is about the teamwork. Belcher says, “I have my medical interventions, I have my husband, and I have my dog.” A DAD is one part of the support team that can help a person with diabetes stay healthier. It is also a job that is naturally suited for some of our canine friends.

Special thanks to Rita Martinez and Sisi Belcher for their contributions to this article.

Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA is a writer and trainer who is having a lot of fun learning about all types of scent work! She lives in Santa Cruz, California with her partner and a heeler-mix named Chance.

The post Diabetic Alert Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Kids and dogs. Everyone agrees they go together, but for children with autism, dogs can be far more than best friends. They can be therapists, comforters, mood stabilizers, and conversation starters. They can help wandering children stay home, help distracted children stay focused, improve a child’s communication and social skills, and help everyone in the family relax.

Wisconsin residents, Rachel and Terry, knew their daughter, Prudence, was different. Two years ago, at age four, she was diagnosed with Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD). Prudence didn’t interact with other children, had a short attention span, struggled to express herself, was easily distracted by sounds, tastes, smells, and movement, often felt anxious, and found comfort in repetitious behaviors and language. “The autism diagnosis scared us but it made sense,” says Rachel. “We searched for anything that could help her.”

Rachel discovered Blessings Unleashed, a nonprofit organization that pairs autism service dogs (also called autism assistance dogs) with children. In early 2011, a yellow Labrador Retriever named Kaiya officially became Prudence’s service dog. According to the Americans with Disabilities Act, service dogs have been trained to do work or perform tasks that benefit individuals with disabilities and must be allowed access to businesses and organizations that serve the public.

As soon as the two met, Prudence lay next to Kaiya and didn’t want to leave her side. At the family’s initial orientation at Blessings Unleashed, Prudence said without prompting, “Kaiya makes me feel better.”

Now, six months later, Rachel and Terry are amazed at how in tune Kaiya is to Prudence’s needs. “If Prudence cries or screams,” says Rachel, “Kaiya is immediately at her side to provide comfort. Kaiya sleeps on Prudence’s bed every night and we often wake to hear Prudence talking to Kaiya, which is wonderful for her speech development and pragmatic language skills. One day we went to a party where we couldn’t take Kaiya, and the experience was difficult for Prudence. As soon as we returned home she ran to the dog and said, ‘Kaiya, I wish you were at the party – I missed you so much!'”

Kaiya’s most significant impact may be her calming effect. “Prudence is much more present and less anxious with Kaiya around,” says Rachel. “We have noticed less scripted speech and more spontaneous conversation. An added benefit is the improvement we have seen in Prudence’s awareness of others. Because she’s responsible for feeding and brushing Kaiya, she has started to show a greater interest in others. She now plays with baby dolls. She feeds them, holds them, sings to them, walks them in a stroller, and puts them to bed every night. She showed little interest in this before Kaiya arrived. She also plays and talks with her little sister. We couldn’t be more thrilled with these new interests!”

Six years ago at the Southeast Regional Facility of Canine Companions for Independence (CCI), an organization that breeds, raises, and trains service dogs for children and adults with disabilities, Xander Rousseau met his service dog for the first time. “It took three days of working with several different dogs before we had our official ‘match,’ ” recalls his mother, Adrienne Levesque, “and Xander had his heart set on a black Lab named Woody. The entire class cheered when his wish was granted.”

On their first Friday night at CCI, Woody slept in the family’s dorm room. “It was the first night in Xander’s illness history that he slept through the night,” says Levesque, who is a founding and current board member of the National Autism Association. “It was a miracle! At the conclusion of the two weeks, Xander was answering simple questions about ‘his dog’ and he hugged Woody’s trainer! Wow! In two short weeks we rejoiced over major milestones!”

For the past six years, Woody has provided Xander with constant acceptance and affection, accompanying the boy to hospitals where he underwent tests and surgeries as well as to grocery stores, Walmart, and other places that had previously been overwhelming.

“He made it possible for us to navigate a parking lot without the fear that Xander would run away. Woody visited school at the beginning of each year so that Xander could transition successfully, and he became Xander’s motivation to work hard in the various therapy programs we used.”

With Woody’s help, Xander moved from the nonverbal, self-stimulating world of rocking and moaning to a life less dominated by ASD symptoms. “Is he cured? No,” says Levesque. “We still face communication and social hardships. We still battle digestive and seizure disorders. Hopefully we will continue to prevail, battle by battle, until we can say we have completely defeated autism.”

Today 13-year-old Xander is heading into eighth grade, where he is enrolled in academically advanced classes, enjoys the swim team, and plays year-round soccer. “We rejoice over the fact that he has many friends,” says Levesque, “the best of which remains his faithful Lab, Woody.”

Autism Dogs

Although the demand for autism dogs has created many approaches to this type of therapy, the field’s established foundations focus on careful breeding, raising, training, placement, follow-up, and support for these special animals and the families who adopt them. The traits that make good service dogs are well documented and can be tested for at a young age. Because of their stable temperament and intelligence, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, and Golden Retriever-Labrador Retriever crosses are widely used.

These dogs can be trained to go after a child who is running away and return the child to the parent, interrupt repetitious or self-harming behaviors, calm a child who is having a tantrum by crawling onto the child’s lap, alert parents if the child wakes at night, and improve the child’s verbal skills by responding to spoken commands.

At Blessings Unleashed, Kaiya was trained to lean or “snuggle” on Prudence when the girl is having a meltdown, interrupt repetitive behaviors by nudging or licking her hand to break the cycle, and to track and find her if she becomes separated from her family.

Eighteen years ago, in what she calls the “dark ages” of autism, Patty Dobbs Gross turned to Canine Companions for Independence on behalf of her son, Danny, whom the organization paired with Madison, a Golden Retriever. “Madison helped Danny grow into the emotionally balanced and socially confident young man he is today,” she says. “He is currently a graduate student at the University of Southern California’s School of Cinematic Arts.”

Madison so inspired Gross that she went on to create North Star Foundation, which during the past 10 years has placed over 100 unique assistance dogs with children who face social, emotional, and educational challenges. Her program differs from that of most service dog organizations because instead of placing trained adult dogs with children, North Star places carefully screened puppies with carefully screened families. Puppy and child grow up together, and the entire family participates in the puppy’s training.

“We educate parents carefully over a long period of time to be sure they provide the necessary supervision and training,” says Gross, “and we screen out children who lash out physically when upset. Having this happen is the only reason besides neglect for which we would remove a dog from a home; we once went to court to do this. In a service dog/child team it is very important to meet the dog’s needs as well as the child’s to keep the placement safe as well as effective. Our dogs ‘work’ for their children, not just the parents, but this is because we actually breed specifically for dogs who take a shine to children, and then we socialize them for children in general and for their own child specifically.”

Gross and her trainers use positive reinforcement training methods exclusively, so North Star dogs are never punished. Instead, they are encouraged to think and act independently.

“We strongly disapprove of programs that use ‘tether dogs’ or ‘babysitter dogs’ that are physically tied to children with autism,” she says. “That’s cruel to the dog and dangerous for both. On five separate occasions, North Star dogs have kept their children safe from wandering, once by delivering a warning bark when the child was taking off, once by nudging the child homeward, and three times by simply following the wandering child until someone noticed the team, read the dog’s collar, and notified the family. But safety is not our primary goal. Our primary focus is meeting our children’s social, emotional, and educational needs.”

Scientific Support for Autism Assistance Dogs

For years reports about the benefits of canine companionship for children with autism were considered heartwarming anecdotes of no scientific importance.

Then researchers began taking a closer look. In 2008 the Journal of Veterinary Medical Education described challenges faced by families with autistic children paired with service dogs, including public-access issues, learning to understand canine behavior, the extra work involved, training commitments, financial responsibilities, and the dog’s impact on family dynamics. “Despite the effects and consequences of these challenges,” researchers concluded, “parents overwhelmingly reported that having a service dog to keep their child safe and to provide companionship was well worth the many inconveniences of service-dog ownership.”

At Maryville College in Maryville, Tennessee, Ariane K. Schratter, PhD, Associate Professor of Psychology, developed an ongoing community-based research partnership with Wilderwood Service Dogs to study the effects of using specially trained dogs for children with autism.

“After the first year with their service dog,” says Dr. Schratter, “parents tended to report decreased problem behaviors such as aggression, fear, and arousal, and an increase in adaptive behaviors, such as eye contact, joint attention, and social inhibition. Many of the children showed improvement in their overall level of functioning.

“The dogs likely elicit positive social interactions in public, helping children with autism successfully interact with others. The dogs’ presence may also reduce physiological arousal at the root of some problem behaviors while providing clear and consistent nonverbal communication cues that children with autism can interpret, thus increasing their adaptive skills. The data suggest that the innovative use of specially trained service dogs may be an important tool for helping the social and language behaviors of children with autism.”

One of the most widely reported benefits of canine-child interaction is reduced anxiety. Now researchers think they know why dogs have such a calming effect. In September 2010, the medical journal Psychoneuroendocrinology published a study that compared levels of the stress hormone cortisol in 42 children with ASD before and during the introduction of a service dog into their families and after the dogs were removed for a short period.

“We found that the introduction of service dogs translated into a statistically significant diminished Cortisol Awakening Response (CAR),” they reported. “Before the introduction of service dogs, we measured a 58 percent increase in morning cortisol after awakening, which diminished to 10 percent when service dogs were present. The increase in morning cortisol jumped back to 48 percent once the dogs were removed from the families…. These results show that the CAR of children with autism is sensitive to the presence of service dogs, which lends support to the potential behavioral benefits of service dogs for children with autism.”

Therapy Dogs at Work

Service dogs aren’t the only four-legged therapists that help children with autism. Therapy dogs make a difference, too. Unlike service dogs, which are permanently paired with their human partners, therapy dogs belong to volunteers who take them to nursing homes, hospitals, schools, and other facilities, usually for an hour at a time. Their visits are considered Animal Assisted Activity or Animal Assisted Therapy depending on whether the visits have specific therapeutic goals and are documented.

For more than 10 years, Reading Education Assistance Dogs® (therapy dogs participating in the READ® literacy program) have visited schools and libraries, where children read out loud to them.

Seven-year-old Joshua (seen in the photos below) had trouble making sense of human emotions until one of his therapists started taking him to read to a dog in the READ program named Journey. “Until then,” says his mother, Ginger Rasmussen, “he was indifferent to animals, as though they were a piece of furniture or a stuffed animal. But after he began reading to Journey, he started petting his own dog and cat, started talking to them and interacting lovingly with them, and before long he began caring and asking why the baby was crying or why mom was happy. He began to feel empathy. Reading to Journey gave Josh the last piece of the puzzle to make him whole. The quiet patience of a READ dog opened a door that we thought was locked forever.”

As reported in the New York Times in November 2010, visits from therapy dogs have become part of the curriculum at the Anderson Center for Autism in Staatsburgh, New York. One nonverbal 11-year-old boy who at first hid from Shadow, a black Labrador Retriever, now asks to walk, pet, and feed her, interactions that help him communicate with teachers and fellow students.

A California teacher who brings her therapy dog to school tried for years to teach one boy to say hello and goodbye. He began greeting the dog, then the teacher, and now he says hello and goodbye to his classmates. 

What Parents Need to Know About Autism Assistance Dogs

It would be wonderful if dogs improved the lives of all children with autism – and if all dogs paired with children lived happy, relaxed, fulfilling lives of their own. But service dogs aren’t for everyone, and not every child is a good match for a dog. Here are some factors for parents to consider before applying for an autism service dog.

Expense. Because of their successful fund-raising, Canine Companions for Independence and Guiding Eyes for the Blind provide service dogs to children with autism at no cost, but most service dog organizations ask families to pay part or all of the considerable cost of raising and training these special animals.

North Star asks families to raise half of a service dog’s $10,000 placement cost ($5,000). Wilderwood Service Dogs requires families to raise the full cost of each service dog ($12,000), as does Autism Service Dogs of America ($13,500). Blessings Unleashed asks families to pay the full cost of a service dog ($10,500) or companion dog ($5,500). Companion dogs provide emotional support and do not require the extensive training that service dogs receive.

When Prudence’s parents began raising money to pay for Kaiya, they reached their goal in less than two months. “Fund-raising may seem like a daunting task,” says Rachel, “but it helps to just tell your story. People often feel helpless and don’t know what to say or do for a family affected by autism. Our supporters were excited about Kaiya and most had no idea that service dogs were being utilized to help autistic people.”

Commitment. Bringing a service or companion dog into a household requires commitment. In addition to basic care, these dogs need ongoing training with the entire family, close supervision from parents, and ample play, exercise, and down time. In many ways bringing a service dog into the family is like adopting a child. Families with canine experience, a fondness for animals, and good organizing skills have a head start.

As Rachel explains, “Our responsibilities for Kaiya include working on her service dog-skills daily, keeping her well groomed, feeding her a high-quality dog food, and keeping her in peak physical condition. When Kaiya is not working it is important for her to be a regular dog, so when she is at home we make time every day for her favorite game – Frisbee! We will also have to take yearly public access tests that demonstrate Kaiya’s service dog-skills in order to be re-certified as Kaiya’s handlers. Having a service dog is definitely an added responsibility with two small children, but the rewards have been many, and we are so thankful to have Kaiya in our lives.”

The Right Child. Not every child with autism can be successfully paired with a service or companion dog, such as children who are afraid of dogs, whose uncontrolled actions may harm a dog, whose families are not able to adjust to the needs of a dog, or whose parents expect the dogs to perform magic.

As K. Burrows, C. Adams, and S. Milman reported in the Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science in 2008, “There is a tendency for parents, especially those with little experience with dogs, to fall victim to ‘Lassie syndrome’ and the belief that real dogs are capable of the sorts of things that fictionalized dogs do, that they are capable of reasoning as humans do, and are qualified to babysit children.”

The Right Program. Researching autism dog programs can be exhausting, especially for those who are new to dogs, but informed parents are better equipped to make good decisions. The Burrows study, which examined 10 children and 11 dogs from a program that tethered dogs to children with autism, revealed problems that had not been addressed prior to the dogs’ placement.

Most of these children showed no interest in their dogs during the first six months of placement. Dogs bonded primarily with one of the parents and some showed signs of separation anxiety when forced to sleep in the child’s room at night or when sent to school without the parent. One dog was returned because it ran after another dog, dragging the child to whom it was tied. These dogs showed evidence of stress and fatigue, especially when sent to school with children because of the long hours and lack of down time, and dogs experienced stress when their child had a tantrum and aggressively struck at the dog.

Programs that emphasize family education, give parents realistic expectations, provide extensive training, follow-through, and support, select appropriate dogs for this type of work, prevent their dogs from suffering stress or abuse, and utilize positive rather than punitive training methods are most likely to generate positive results.

Freelance writer CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books, and is a frequent contributor to WDJ.

The post Autism Assistive Dogs can be Life Changers for Children with Autism appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Remember: the products mentioned here are only the tip of the iceberg. There are numerous companies making innovative assistive products; what we’re hoping to do here is to get you thinking about some of the possibilities!

No Slip Solutions

My husband and I purchased our home, in large part, to suit our dogs. What could be better than a one-level home with hard wood floors and no stairs to navigate? The single-level layout worked well as our dogs aged, but in their senior eyes, the hardwood floors have become a skating rink.

I dreaded the thought of buying carpet runners. They’d need a rug pad so they wouldn’t slip; they’d have to be vacuumed regularly; carpet is a breeding ground for fleas (especially here in the hot, humid south); and often, runners come with a dreadful chemical smell that takes a while to dissipate.

I was thrilled when I discovered a relatively inexpensive product called CarpetSaver, a lightweight, cotton blend, foam-backed terry runner that’s machine washable. I ordered a remnant roll and was able to cut the fabric easily with household scissors to varying lengths. Although this product will never make the cover of House Beautiful and is only available in four basic colors, I’ve been pleased with the quality, durability, and wash-ability of the product, along with the ease with which my elderly Bouvier, Jolie, now navigates through the house without missing a beat. I’ve gotten a return on my investment many times over! Suggested retail price is $20 and up; remnants and overstock sometimes available.

In some areas of our house, I’ve put down yoga mats for improved traction. They’re easy to keep clean; just pick up and shake out or vacuum. I recently learned that yoga matting is available in bulk rolls. A trainer friend lined the cargo area of her Honda Element with roll matting, making her English Mastiff very happy. The matting offers a great, grippy surface to walk on, but I’ve also found that guest dogs in our home gravitate to the mats as a comfy place to nap. Although I purchased Jolie’s yoga mats at a discount store for about $10 each, I recently found a 24″ x 104″ x ¼” roll of matting online for $125.

Front Limb Care

The signature product of DogLeggs Therapeutic & Rehabilitative Products is their Standard Adjustable DogLeggs. This product offers coverage, padding, and protection for elbow joints, and is regularly used to treat and prevent elbow hygromas – fluid-filled swellings at the point of one or both elbows, which can arise as the result of trauma or even from a dog lying for long periods of time on hard surfaces. In that case, over time, the point of the elbow bone traumatizes the soft tissue, causing inflammation and leading to the formation of a fluid-filled sac. 

Standard Adjustable DogLeggs can also be used to help with a variety of other conditions, including elbow arthritis, decubital ulcers, pressure sores, and calluses, and a full length model for more coverage is available as well.

Consumers can measure their dogs themselves and order this product direct from the company; however, company spokesman John-Henry Gross believes that the best results are achieved when the client works with her dog’s veterinarian to measure and order the leggings. It’s also important to involve your veterinarian to be sure that what you’re looking at on your dog is a hygroma. Suggested retail: $108 (standard); $128 (full).

Hind-End Support

In our March issue, we talked about full body harnesses. In some cases, such as when a dog requires only hind-end assistance (i.e., post surgery), a full body harness might not be necessary. For those times, the Walkabout Back Harness (as seen on the facing page) is a great option. It’s made of a neoprene fabric with polypropylene webbing straps. It’s sturdy; has long, substantial handle straps (to save our backs!); and fits both male and female dogs.

To put the harness on, lay it flat on the floor and put the dog’s hind legs through two holes; the harness then wraps up over the dog’s back, closing with Velcro and buckles. I’ve had the chance to see the harness in action while being used to get a large dog (post-surgery, with two fractured hips) up and outside to eliminate, and it worked very well. While homemade works in some situations, I’ve seen firsthand that a product like this beats the old towel-under-the-belly, hands down. Suggested retail: $35 – $78.

Also in March, we mentioned one canine wheelchair, suggested by a veterinarian who specializes in canine rehab, as an example of the canine wheelchair-type products available. There are a number of other canine wheelchair makers, and each has products with unique features, benefits, and drawbacks. If your dog would benefit from a mobility cart, check out the offerings from the following companies to see what might work best for your dog, situation, and budget:

Doggon’ Wheels
888-7-DOGGON; doggon.com

Eddie’s Wheels
(888) 211-2700; eddieswheels.com

K9 Carts
(800) 578-6960; K9-carts.com

Healing Heat

Heat can offer our pets’ aching joints relief from pain, especially in cold, damp weather. The HipHug is a 100 percent cotton, rice-filled pad that you can heat in the microwave. What’s unique about the HipHug is that its cute bone shape is actually utilitarian: the way the pad is cut, it envelops and shapes to the dog’s hips and lower back nicely. The rice creates moist heat, easing joint pain and relaxing muscles.

As someone who spent this past winter getting up early to heat a pad to warm 14-year-old Jolie’s back and knees before her morning walk, I can attest that heat used properly can make a big difference in loosening up painful joints. Suggested retail: $13 – $25.
 
DogLeggs offers a similar product, the Buddy Bag, for hot or cold therapy.

How to Introduce New Equipment

Trainer and behaviorist Jean Donaldson posted a short video on YouTube of her Chow Chow, Buffy, gleefully accepting and wearing a stifle brace. In December 2010, then nine-year-old Buffy was diagnosed with a CCL (cranial cruciate ligament) tear. Donaldson chose to manage the injury conservatively, rather than subject Buffy to surgery, and opted for a stifle (knee) brace from OrthoPets. The brace helps prevent re-injury while the dog builds scar tissue and muscle around the injured knee.

In the video, Buffy was pretty happy to have Jean put on her brace. Donaldson spent time desensitizing Buffy to the brace before asking her to wear it. In fact, she first prepared Buffy for the casting procedure performed by Buffy’s veterinarian Anne Reed, DVM, which was required for fabrication of the brace. Dr. Reed was so impressed with Buffy’s cooperation during the casting that she asked Donaldson to write up a protocol for her to share with other brace clients. Donaldson graciously agreed to share it with us as well (see below).

After the casting, Donaldson prepared Buffy for the brace itself. Here’s how, in her words: “Show brace, then big pay-off (chicken). Touch leg with brace, then big pay-off. Hold brace against leg, then big pay-off. Add duration, paying off throughout. Add duration, pay off at end. Put brace on briefly, paying throughout. Put brace on, pay with intervals between installments. Put brace on, short walkies. Longer walkies.” She says it took only a few days for Buffy to willingly accept the brace but admits that the training she did for the casting likely sped up the process.

Buffy was rested for about eight weeks, then exposed to a gradual increase in length of walks and activity level, given supplements, and kept lean. Donaldson reports, “Buffy wears the brace for any activity where she might attempt a ‘sudden sprint.’  OrthoPets’ recommendation is for a dog to wear it for a maximum of eight hours a day.  Buffy’s not a bouncing-off-the-walls kind of dog, so indoors she doesn’t wear it.” The plan is to gradually reduce the time Buffy wears the brace. See the video, “I’m Too Sexy for My Brace,” at tinyurl.com/buffybrace.

Lisa Rodier shares her home in Georgia with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.

The post Orthopedic Equipment for Dogs that Increase Joint Support and Overall Mobility appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

This concept is common – and dead wrong. Many people assume that deafness somehow makes a dog untrainable, or that training a deaf dog will require an enormous amount of extra training to prevent tragedy. In reality, training any dog requires time, regardless of whether she can hear or not. Training a deaf dog requires some common sense, but not a ton of extra training. It is unfortunate that deafness often results in a death sentence for perfectly healthy dogs.

Congenital Deafness

Congenital deafness is deafness that a dog is born with. Dr. George M. Strain, Professor of Neuroscience at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine, has found that congenital deafness in companion animals is most commonly inherited from a deaf parent, but may also skip generations.

Dr. Strain lists 92 dog breeds with reported congenital deafness, though he notes that individuals of any breed can have congenital deafness from a variety of causes. Breeds with white pigmentation are most commonly affected, with Dalmatians, Bull Terriers, Australian Shepherds, and Australian Cattle Dogs frequently reported to be partially or completely deaf. Out of more than 5,600 Dalmatians tested for deafness, 441 (7.8%) were reported to be bilaterally deaf, and out of 442 Australian Cattle Dogs tested, 11 (2.5%) were bilaterally deaf. Dr. Strain is currently gathering data on the prevalence of congenital deafness in other breeds.

Are deaf dogs different? It’s often suggested that deaf dogs are prone to biting when startled. The truth is that any dog can nip or bite when startled – it’s just easier to startle a deaf dog than a dog who hears your approach. It’s important to desensitize your dog, hearing or deaf, to touch (for more on this, see “Stay in Touch,” WDJ Jan 2011).

It’s also a good idea to choose a specific place (shoulder, hip, etc.) to lightly touch your deaf dog as a cue for “pay attention to me” – the equivalent of calling a hearing dog’s name. It’s best to start while your dog is awake and looking at you. Lightly touch this area and feed your dog a treat. Repeat many times. Work up to the point where you can give your dog a light touch while she is looking away and she turns her head toward you with a happy look.

I use a light touch to get my dog’s attention when other methods aren’t convenient. Other methods to get your deaf dog’s attention might include a good stomp on the floor, a flashlight, or a remote-controlled vibration collar. Before relying on these methods to get your dog’s attention, first teach your dog the meaning of them by pairing them with good things – treats, toys, and/or attention.

Another myth about deaf dogs is that you cannot call your dog back if she runs away from you into a dangerous situation. It goes without saying that you should not let a deaf dog run free in any place that you would not let a hearing dog run free. However, there may be an occasion when your dog inadvertently gets away from you. Teaching your deaf dog to “check in” with you frequently, and thus being able to see your non-verbal cue, will aid in preventing disaster.

You can also use a remote-controlled vibration collar to get your dog’s attention over some distance. These devices vary in their maximum range (from as little as 100 feet to more than a mile), but many have an additional shock element, which I do not recommend. Just as a hearing dog must be trained to respond to a recall cue, a deaf dog also must be trained to respond appropriately to a collar vibration. But remember, any dog can have selective “hearing” when recalled unless the behavior is practiced and proofed.

Not Any More Difficult Than Training Any Dog

Deaf dogs are not any harder to train than hearing dogs. It just takes a little practical consideration to train without sound. As a clicker trainer, I use a conditioned reinforcer to mark correct behavior. Since a completely deaf dog cannot hear a clicker, I have found that a keychain flashlight works well. I choose a small flashlight that turns on when the button is pressed and turns off when the button is released – just like a clicker.

As a backup marker, much like using the word “yes” when I do not have a clicker on me, I use a “thumbs up” gesture. It took practice for me to remember to put the thumbs up away quickly, instead of holding it up for an extended period of time and marking more than just the behavior I want. Another practical consideration is that when you mark a behavior with a thumbs up, the dog must be looking at your hand to perceive it. Thus, you must be in your dog’s line of sight while she does the behavior. I prefer the keychain flashlight, because the light can be perceived in the dog’s peripheral vision, thus allowing your dog to focus on what she is doing instead of watching for the thumbs up.

When I explain clicker training in my orientation seminar for basic obedience courses, I use my deaf dog as my demo dog. In my experience, deaf dogs take to “clicker training” just as well as hearing dogs. An added benefit to working with a deaf dog is that they are not distracted by background noises during training. Using my deaf dog in demonstrations highlights the fact that there is nothing magical about a clicker – it is just a convenient tool.

Some people ask if a keychain flashlight would be a good event marker for their hearing dogs. In my opinion, no; light is not quite as versatile as a clicker. It’s difficult to see in bright light, whereas the clicker is a distinct sound that can be perceived in most situations, even in a noisy room, and from a distance.

Some trainers use a “no reward marker” (NRM) during a training session when a dog is not on the right track. It would be easy to use a specific hand signal (maybe a thumbs down?) to act as a NRM.

What to Use as Cues?

Without hearing, deaf dogs must rely on their other senses. They are quite attuned to body language, human and dog alike. It makes sense that the majority of cues that they are taught would be visual, including hand signals, body posture, foot position, and eye contact.

Some owners of deaf dogs use American Sign Language (ASL) hand signals as cues. This lends consistency in hand signals for deaf dogs, and is a resource for possible hand signals for us unimaginative folk. Unfortunately, few people are fluent in ASL. Also, it’s inconvenient to use two hands for a cue, as one hand is needed to mark the correct behavior, deliver a treat, and possibly hold onto a leash during training.

I sometimes use letters of the ASL alphabet for behaviors ( “n” for nose touch,  “l” for lick) as they only require one hand and are distinct, but I made up most of the hand signals I use with my deaf dog. Her signal for “heel” is a double tap on my left leg. “Leave it” is a flat hand shaken side to side in front of her face. “Spin left” is a flick of the right hand to the right (toward her left side).

Just as you wouldn’t shout when you teach a new verbal cue to a hearing dog, hand signals need not be exaggerated, just perceivable by the dog.

To Talk or Not to Talk?

I do feel that clicker training a deaf dog has made me a better trainer for hearing dogs. It highlights the fact that verbal coaching while training is unnecessary, and can actually get in the way when trying to give consistent cues.

On the other hand, when talking to our dogs our body language naturally and unconsciously changes. Talking to your dog can actually aid in keeping her attention, and in conveying praise and excitement. By talking to your dog you actively engage her. Your entire body conveys that your attention is on her, and this is something which even a deaf dog will be able to pick up.

The lesson is to talk less when training new behaviors, but to talk when you want to keep your dog’s attention and as praise for a job well done.

For example, you want to keep your dog’s attention while heeling. Try silently heeling with your dog, then try happily talking to your dog while heeling. Your body language changes – when you talk to the dog, you will be more animated – and your dog will notice. If talking to your deaf dog produces better results, talk away!

What Does a Deaf Dog Need to Know?

Here are five things that I believe are the most important for deaf dogs to learn:

1. Socialization – Your dog should be comfortable with novelty; new places, people, animals, etc.

2. Touch – Your dog should be comfortable being handled all over.

3. Eye contact/attention – Remember, your deaf dog must be looking at you to perceive your cues.

4. Checking in – Your dog should regularly look to you in case you might give a cue.

5. Emergency recall – In an emergency, you must be able to cue your dog to come back quickly.

Note that these things are important for all dogs – not just deaf dogs. I tend to focus more on touch desensitization and checking in with deaf dogs than with hearing dogs, but otherwise work on the same concepts in the same amounts. If you do not have dog training experience, I would recommend finding a positive reinforcement trainer who is open to working with a deaf dog.

Deaf dogs are not more difficult to train than hearing dogs if you use common sense while training. They are very responsive to hand signals and body language and don’t often startle at unexpected noises. The things that are important for hearing dogs to learn are just as important to deaf dogs. If you find yourself with an opportunity to work with a deaf dog, consider it a learning experience!

Author and trainer Cindy Rich, KPA CTP, of The Canine Connection in Chico, California, has modelled for WDJ photos for a while, but this is her first written contribution to the magazine.

The post How to Train Hearing Impaired Dogs Using Hand Signals and Simple Gestures appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

She taught me early on to be consistent with my hand signals, and to be careful not to casually use my hands in ways that might be construed as a hand signal. For instance, our hand signal for sit was an open hand, fingers splayed, palm toward her. On walks, she constantly looked for signals that meant she could earn a treat. I started showing her that I didn’t have any treats at the moment by displaying my empty hands (fingers splayed, palms toward her). Shortly thereafter, she started turning away and finding something else to do upon giving her the “sit” cue. It took me a little time to connect the two hand signals. I retrained “sit,” giving it a new hand signal, and vowed to pay closer attention to what I was “saying” to Juneau.

Juneau is very attentive during training, and strives to keep her eyes on what I am doing at all times. “Stay” is not a problem for her when I walk a short distance away, but it’s a challenge for her to hold that stay if I walk behind her. Unfortunately, she hasn’t learned how to turn her head 360 degrees, so she often gets up and turns around to see what I am doing back there. I plan to recruit a helper to reinforce for holding a sit or down while I walk around her.

I have found that keeping an open mind, being consistent, and adhering to positive reinforcement methods of training have built a solid connection between me and each of my dogs, including Juneau.

The post Juneau’s Story – One of The Happiest Deaf Dogs You Could Ever Meet! appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.