What is Canine Dysfunctional Behavior?

Canine dysfunctional behavior is an idiopathic condition, meaning that we don’t yet know what definitively causes it. It is believed that dogs with canine dysfunctional behavior are deficient in mirror neurons, which are believed to be important for helping dogs and puppies “mirror” other dogs’ behaviors when socializing. Canine dysfunctional behavior is currently poorly understood but is thought to mimic a number of autism-like behaviors in humans. Indeed, researchers have identified dogs as a model for many human neuropsychiatric conditions, including ASD due to the similarities in symptoms.

Symptoms of Canine Dysfunctional Behavior

Although a definitive list of symptoms of canine dysfunctional behavior is currently lacking, there are a number of common symptoms that are believed to indicate canine dysfunctional behavior. These include:

Obsessive compulsive behaviors

These include repetitive or stereotypical movement or actions such as tail chasing, circling, fly snapping, excessive licking or chewing, or pacing in the yard along a well-worn path. Obsessive compulsive behaviors interfere with normal function and can negatively impact wellbeing and welfare.

Inappropriate responses to situations or stimuli

A dog with canine dysfunctional behavior may overreact in response to stimuli or situations considered quite normal for a dog. For example, they may yelp in response to gentle touch, over-react to sudden noises, or shut down and retreat from unfamiliar environments or situations.

Poor communication

Dogs with canine dysfunctional behavior may be poor at communicating their feelings and emotions with us and other dogs through their behavior and body language. For example, avoiding eye contact.

Trance-like behavior and episodic aggression

Sudden explosive aggression and trance like behavior have been observed in dogs and is believed to be linked to canine dysfunctional behavior.

How Is It Diagnosed?

Canine dysfunctional behavior is difficult to diagnose due to its similarity to several other conditions such as canine compulsive disorder, canine anxiety disorders, and other neurological disorders. Furthermore, canine dysfunctional behavior is not yet well understood. If you believe canine dysfunctional behavior is the cause of your dog’s behavioral issues, it’s best to seek professional help from your veterinarian for a thorough examination and informed diagnosis. This may involve a referral to a veterinary specialist for further investigation.

What Does the Research Say?

Currently, very little research exists investigating canine dysfunctional behavior in dogs. However, the available research has found that some dog behavioral issues such as tail chasing in Bull Terriers may serve as an indication of autism-like behaviors. Tail chasing is a stereotypical behavior closely associated with owner-directed explosive aggression, trancing, social withdrawal, and a persistent obsession with objects (Topál et al., 2019) [1]. Furthermore, dogs that tail chase have been found to cope poorly with stressful situations. Interestingly, male dogs are affected more often than females (Moon-Fanelli et al., 2011 [2]) which is also the case with autism in humans.

In another study, results from a dog owner survey on the social behaviors of Miniature and Standard Poodles indicated autism-like behaviors in individuals of these breeds (Zamzow, et al., 2017 [3]). It has also been found that puppies that react negatively to being touched by a human handler are more likely to be withdrawn from the guide dog training program than more sociable subjects (Asher et al., 2013 [4]). In a study by Protopopova et al. (2014 [5]), dogs that showed a predisposition for stereotypic behaviors differed from the normal population in terms of their cognitive flexibility. The researchers found that they showed increased resistance to extinction in a reversal learning task.

How To Manage Canine Dysfunctional Behavior

There is no known cure for canine dysfunctional behavior. However, identifying your dog’s triggers can be help you manage or avoid the situations that may set your dog off and exacerbate their behavior. It is also important to understand that some aspects of canine dysfunctional behavior may not improve, such as your dog’s social interaction skills, and these dogs are best managed in a way so as to avoid causing distress.

Dogs that have been diagnosed as having canine dysfunctional behavior may benefit from the implementation of a consistent routine including regular exercise and mental stimulation to help minimize stress and anxiety. They may also benefit from behavior modification training to improve their ability to cope with triggering stimuli or situations, and in some cases, your veterinarian may prescribe medications to help reduce anxiety and compulsive behaviors.

References:

[2] Moon-Fanelli, A. A., Dodman, N. H., Famula, T. R., & Cottam, N. (2011). Characteristics of compulsive tail chasing and associated risk factors in Bull Terriers. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 238(7), 883-889.

[3] Zamzow, R. M., Lit, L., Hamilton, S., & Beversdorf, D. Q. (2017). Characterizing autism-relevant social behavior in poodles (Canis familiaris) via owner report. Journal of Comparative Psychology, 131(2), 139.

[4] Asher, L., Blythe, S., Roberts, R., Toothill, L., Craigon, P. J., Evans, K. M., … & England, G. C. (2013). A standardized behavior test for potential guide dog puppies: Methods and association with subsequent success in guide dog training. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 8(6), 431-438.

[5] Protopopova, A., Hall, N. J., & Wynne, C. D. (2014). Association between increased behavioral persistence and stereotypy in the pet dog. Behavioural processes, 106, 77-81.

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Maybe all of the above. You can rest assured they’re not doing it to drive you crazy or to exact revenge on you for skimping on their treats.

The Role of Genetics

Some dog breeds are genetically predisposed to digging.  In Dachshunds, for example, a key breed characteristic is digging to follow small prey into underground burrows and tunnels. This instinct is so strong that merely finding a disturbance in the soil can be enough to stimulate their prey drive, and thus inspire the digging behavior. The same is true for breeds like terriers, beagles, schnauzers, and even hounds. And of course, when those dogs end up discovering a tasty morsel like a grub after digging—or they actually encounter that elusive gopher, which in turn triggers a wild and gleeful chase—that digging behavior gets reinforced.

That being said, it’s important not to equate breed with behavior: although a dog’s breed can help us predict how likely a certain behavior is to occur, breed alone isn’t responsible for an individual dog’s disposition: in fact, breed accounts for less than ten percent of a dog’s overall behavior. Certified behaviorist Victoria Schade says that “a dog’s overall life experience is a better predictor of the way they’ll interact with the world around them than what their breed standards says.”

And yet, all dogs are “hard-wired” to dig: their ancient ancestors dug to locate or hide food, to find a place to give birth, to create dens to keep their pups safe and warm, to mark their territory, to find cooler ground to lie in on hot days. Even though many of these traits have no real purpose in our modern world, they’re so engrained in dog DNA that the behavior endures. As annoying or destructive as it may appear to us, in most cases digging is a perfectly rational, innate canine behavior.

In recognition of this, the AKC has even developed an Earthdog Test that measures how good a “digger” your dog really is in pursuing and finding rodents underground.

Other Reasons That Dogs Dig

Studies have clearly shown that not just a dog’s breed, but his personality, current environment, anxiety level, as well as earlier life experiences can have a profound effect on digging behavior. For instance, if you live in a place where summers are hot and your dog is a thick-coated Nordic breed like a Samoyed, Siberian Husky, or Malamute, you’re much more likely to see them digging a hole to get to the cooler ground below.

Aside from instinctual hunting impulses and the desire to regulate their body temperatures, there are other reasons why your dog might become a digging fool.

Hoarding. In their wolfish past, canines instinctively dug holes in order to stockpile food for lean times or for winter when food was scarce. This can be seen in today’s dogs, when even though their caretakers provide ample food, they may revert to this behavior by burying items like bones.

Escape. In most cases, escape routes involve digging under, jumping over, or even climbing up fences. These canine escape artists might want to reach another dog for play or mating, they might have been prodded by a child teasing them from the other side of the fence or another dog acting aggressively, they might want to socialize with humans at a neighborhood get-together (or, like my dog Frankie, simply hang around construction workers at a neighbor’s house because she thinks that being with people means it’s a party), they might have been frightened by something in the yard, or they may simply want to explore.

Attention-seeking. It may seem counter-intuitive, but some dogs dig holes in order to get their caretaker’s attention. It doesn’t matter if the human’s reaction is negative, because for the dog, simply having the attention of their caretaker is enough. Certified animal behaviorist Maddie Messina explains it this way: “If digging earns them attention from their human companions, dogs may continue the behavior as a means of seeking interaction. There’s nothing more rewarding to a social animal like a dog as their human giving them attention, so if a dog learns this works for them, the unwanted behavior will be reinforced.” And it will continue.

Lack of space or exercise. Animal researcher Dr. Johannes Odendaal makes the point that large and active dogs kept in a small back yard often suffer from insufficient exercise due to lack of space. Unless their caretaker takes pains to walk them frequently, digging can become their way of exercising.

Anxiety or boredom. Some types of dog behaviors have boredom or stress as an underlying cause; digging becomes just another way for them to cope with tedium, extreme energy, or emotions. Research shows that separation anxiety in particular can cause many destructive behaviors, including compulsive digging. For instance, if a dog with separation anxiety is confined in a yard while their caretaker is away, it may start digging, explains veterinarian Dr. Stacy Johnson. “These dogs may incessantly dig—even to the point of injury—to reunite with their owner.” A dog that’s highly motivated to do something but is physically unable to do it may start digging in frustration: an example would be a dog that feels territorial aggression toward another dog, but is prevented from acting on that territoriality because it’s behind a fence.

Play. We know from interacting with our dogs that their mouths and front legs are the main sources of their kinetic energy: they play tug-of-war, carry around toys, wave their legs in the air when they get a belly-rub, and use their feet to paw at us. It makes perfect sense that if they’re looking for a way to entertain themselves, they’ll chew on an object or dig holes. (Or dig a hole and bury their treasure in it!) We humans may see it as destructive behavior, but for the dog it’s probably just a form of play.

To scent-mark. Observational studies show that dogs often dig at or scratch the ground after urination or defecation, which can deposit scent from the urine or feces as well as from the scent glands on their feet. In addition, some researchers believe that the ground disturbance may act as a visual cue to other animals. However, at this point these theories are very speculative, since the behavior hasn’t been formally researched enough to arrive at unequivocal conclusions. “Stand by for more discussions of why dogs ground scratch,” says ethologist Dr. Mark Bekoff, author of The Emotional Lives of Animals. “There still is much to learn, and it’s clear that there is much more going on than meets our eye.”

When Digging Becomes a Problem

If your dog is being truly destructive in his digging, one strategy is to redirect and reward him for digging in a designated digging spot. That might be something like a corner of the yard, a sandpit or sand pile, or even a kiddie pool containing either sand or scraps of old fabric and toys.

If the behavior appears to be extremely repetitive or compulsive and the dog is in genuine distress, you need to get professional veterinary advice so she can be properly diagnosed and treated.

As for training your dog not to dig, that can be problematic at best. First, you need to determine what’s at the root of his problem digging. Is it boredom? Lack of exercise? Frustration? Aggression? Is he just having fun? Or is there something more serious going on that needs veterinary consultation? Each one of these causes requires a different approach and, unfortunately, the reality is that no matter what you do, you’ll probably be unsuccessful in your efforts to make him stop, since digging is as natural to him as eating.

But no matter what the underlying reason is for your dog’s digging proclivities, chances are that you may have to simply grin and bear it and recognize that she’s just being a dog.

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And yet, there is an explanation. Rather, several explanations.

What IS This Sucking Behavior?

We’ve all seen human babies sucking on pacifiers, their thumbs, or even on blankets and child experts tell us that this kind of instinctive sucking calms babies and makes them feel more secure. The same is likely true for puppies, who are born with an innate need to suckle and knead. Even after the mother dog has long since stopped producing milk, some pups will attempt to suckle, perhaps as a way to soothe themselves.

In addition, puppies will often look to something similar to their mother’s soft skin and fur for comfort: something like a supple, velvety stuffed toy or blanket.  Most of the time, a puppy will grow out of this behavior, but what happens if it doesn’t? What happens if your adult dog continues to knead her old threadbare blanket or suck on her ancient stuffed hippopotamus? Should you be worried that you’ve inadvertently created an canine psychoneurotic?

Is Blanket Sucking a Harmless Behavior?

The answer in most cases, there’s nothing inherently wrong with an adult dog who is still mouthing and kneading her blanket or toy.  We’ve all had dogs that choose one particular stuffed toy as their inseparable companion: years ago, my dog Casey claimed a stuffed penguin that he carried around everywhere, even to the construction site of the house I was building where it got run over by a tractor, dropped in a culvert, smeared with concrete, and buried in three feet of dirt . . . yet even then, even when it was totally dilapidated, he refused to give it up.

Gwen Bailey, author of more than a dozen books on dog behavior and member of the U.K.’s Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, says this kind of “object-sucking” is usually quite harmless, the canine equivalent of a toddler who inexplicably latches onto a favorite “blankie” and carries it everywhere. She explains that while this behavior in adult dogs isn’t terribly common, it’s not deviant by any stretch of the imagination; it’s also not breed-specific, so you’re just as likely to see it in a Great Dane as in a Dachshund.

If, however, your dog’s blanket- or toy-sucking behavior is persistent and unremitting, and you’re unable to distract him from it, the behavior may have become compulsive. If you’re concerned about this possibility, talk with your veterinarian about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating compulsive behavior.

There is one other situation where a caretaker needs to be concerned: so-called “flank-sucking,” which is especially prevalent in Doberman Pinschers and Weimaraners.  Flank-sucking—when a dog repetitively sucks or holds in his mouth a piece of its own flank skin–is a type of canine compulsive disorder that can cause physical injury to the dog’s skin, and calls for veterinary intervention.

And Then There’s Chewing

Some dogs don’t suck on their blankets, they chew them. Constantly. Until the blanket is, as the Coroner sings in the Wizard of Oz, not only “merely dead, but really most sincerely dead.”  Again, this isn’t necessarily harmful, unless your dog is actually eating the blanket or toy. In that case, you need to find a way to keep him away from those objects, and provide an alternative like a stuffed Kong, an all-natural edible dog chew, or dental bones. Remember, though, that just because a dog treat may be edible, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe, making supervision a must. For instance, if your dog breaks off a large chunk of a chew and swallows it, there’s a risk of him either choking or developing an obstruction.

As long as your dog is simply chewing and not devouring, there’s no need to worry, but it’s important to teach her what is and isn’t appropriate to chew on. If she’s a blanket-chewer, restrict her to her own blanket, not the one on your or your child’s bed. The same is true with toys versus things like shoes or clothes. If the chewing turns destructive—you come home to a couch that’s in tatters, or your down pillow looks like a deflated balloon—then you have an entirely different problem on your hands. Adult dogs can engage in destructive chewing for a variety of reasons, including separation anxiety, boredom, anxiety, or as a coping mechanism. Again, you need to speak to a behaviorist to get to the root of the problem and find a solution.

What About Licking?

Some dogs are inveterate lickers. They don’t suck their blankets, they don’t chew their blankets, they simply lick them. Constantly.

It’s important to remember that dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Often, they lick objects to simply understand and gather information about them. At the same time, licking blankets, toys, and their beds can be just as comforting and soothing to your dog as sucking. It also releases endorphins—those “feel-good” hormones—that help them relax and feel comfortable.

But like excessive chewing, dogs can also engage in nonstop licking out of pure boredom, which can easily lead to obsession. Any behavior that continues for a length of time should be discussed with your veterinarian, as there could be an underlying medical condition that needs to be addressed.

In the end, whether your dog is sucking her blanket, kneading it, chewing on it, or licking it, chances are there’s nothing wrong—she’s just trying to make herself feel good!

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Pica is another reason why dogs eat dirt and other inedible items. Pica in dogs is a behavioral condition where the dog frequently chooses to eat non-food items. Besides being annoying, pica can lead to broken teeth, intestinal blockages, or even toxicity.

Dog Suddenly Eating Grass Like Crazy

Eating grass is a normal behavior for dogs. Dogs are omnivores, and many seem to legitimately enjoy eating grass! It’s also widely believed that dogs sometimes eat grass when their stomach feels off or to induce vomiting, but eating grass alone does not mean your dog is definitely sick.

Grass is not typically a target for dogs with pica, but it is possible. Suspect pica if your dog is eating large quantities of grass multiple times a day, especially if he is also eating non-food items such as your carpet.

Pica: Why Dogs Eat Dirt, Rocks, and Fabric

Dirt, rocks, and fabric items (such as clothing or upholstery) are some of the more “popular” things for dogs with pica to eat, but it could be anything. Dogs often like to chew on wood, too.

The key difference between normal dog chewing behaviors and pica is that the dog seeks out the non-food item(s) repeatedly.

Pica in Dogs

Pica can be caused by behavioral and medical disorders.

If your dog consistently seeks out non-food items to eat, your veterinarian will start by doing a medical workup. Your dog will receive a full physical exam, bloodwork, and a fecal analysis. Health problems in the digestive tract, such as inflammatory bowel syndrome (IBS), intestinal worms or other parasites, or malnutrition, are some of the more common medical causes of pica in dogs.

Once medical issues have been ruled out, your veterinarian will investigate behavioral disorders that may be contributing to your dog’s pica. You should know how to recognize the signs of stress in a dog because it can be a cause of pica, along with anxiety, boredom, and obsessive-compulsive disorders. This is because the act of eating releases endorphins that make the dog feel better.

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Comfort a dog in heat by giving your dog a little extra attention during her heat cycle. Make sure she continues to eat but don’t force her to eat more than she wants. Let her sleep if she needs it and keep noisy distractions to a minimum.

Once her heat cycle has started, your dog will begin spotting blood from her vulva. She may spend a lot of time licking her vulva to keep that area clean. Dogs with thick fur may require your assistance with keeping the fur around the vulva free of discharge.

You can help support her by making sure that her bedding is always clean. Consider laying an absorbent pad (like a pee pad) on top of her bedding to absorb discharge from her vulva. Dogs who experience moderate to heavy discharge may benefit from wearing a sanitary diaper until the amount of discharge begins to decrease.

How to prevent unwanted pregnancy during your dog’s heat cycle

A dog’s heat cycle typically lasts about two to three weeks. There are two phases to a dog’s heat cycle. Intact male dogs will be attracted to her during both phases, but she will become receptive to mating and can become pregnant during the second phase.

If you do not want your dog to become pregnant, do not leave her unattended outside during the second phase of her heat cycle. Avoid off-leash walks and dog parks. And most importantly, do not let her out in the fenced-in yard without direct supervision. A fence is no match for an intact male dog who wants to mate with your female dog!

Since her outdoor activities will likely be curtailed during her heat cycle to prevent mating, she will need additional indoor activities to keep her occupied. Consider getting her an interactive puzzle toy to provide her with both mental stimulation and physical activity. Play indoor games of fetch or hide training treats inside boxes or blocks that she can search for and find.

The best way to provide comfort to a dog in heat is to not have her go through a heat cycle at all! Having your dog spayed eliminates the risk of developing pyometra (a life-threatening infection of the uterus) and minimizes the risk of developing mammary cancer. Talk to your veterinarian about the best time to spay your dog.

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What do dogs like to watch on TV? There are lots of things on TV that we watch and dogs ignore, but most dogs recognize and will pay attention to other animals on the screen. For some dogs, this attention will be momentary and be limited to animals – especially dogs – who are running, barking, or engaged in activity, but other dogs will watch any animal doing anything on TV. If a program or commercial features high-pitched sounds, whistles, squeaky toys, or barks, it’s more likely to trigger a response.

Why do some dogs watch TV and others don’t? Young dogs, dogs with little TV experience, or dogs with strong prey drives may act as though animals on television are there in the same room with them, perhaps behind the TV, while some dogs realize right away that the images aren’t real. The fact that televised animals don’t smell like anything probably makes them less interesting, as dogs depend as much on their amazing sense of smell as their vision.

Your dog may have already demonstrated that televised animals are fascinating, but if that hasn’t happened yet, pay attention when pet food ads, commercials featuring dogs, or nature programs come on. If their colors are mostly blues, greens, or yellows, the action should capture your dog’s attention. Look for focusing eyes, alert expressions, changes in posture, head tilts, tail wags, or expressive sounds like growls, barks, or whines. You’ll be able to see whether your dog is interested, enjoying herself, uncomfortable, or indifferent.

Should you leave the TV on for your dog?

That depends on your dog and the programs. Some veterinarians discourage the practice because they have seen dogs who have injured themselves while chasing something on the screen or dogs who have been frightened, confused, or stressed by sights and sounds. Action movies may interest dogs because of their motion, but dogs are less likely to enjoy explosions, fireworks, arguments, or gunfire. Make it easy for your dog to stay or leave the TV area while you’re away. Behavioral experts remind dog owners that televisions can’t substitute for human companionship, but familiar sights and sounds may help dogs relax or entertain themselves during the day.

There is even a TV channel for dogs. As the DogTV  website explains, “We’ve worked with experts like Professor Nicholas Dodman at Tufts University, Niwako Ogata of Purdue University, and organizations like the Center for Canine Behavior Studies to learn from their observations.” The channel’s colors and high number of frames per second coordinate with canine vision, and its offerings range from stress-reducing scenes of dogs relaxing to dogs enjoying more stimulating activities, such as surfing at the beach.

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But your convenience isn’t the only compelling reason to teach these behaviors to your dog. When dogs learn that the act of remaining calm and still earns them treats and praise – when they learn that you will generously reinforce these behaviors – they will offer them more often.

In addition, when our dogs act calm, they will actually become calmer. Gradually, the physiological state of relaxation will develop as a conditioned response to reinforcement for the outward behavior.

Two Very Useful Calming Behaviors

I teach “Settle” and “Relax” as two separate behaviors:

I use the cue “Settle” to mean the behavior of relaxing while lying down on one hip for an extended period of time – several minutes or longer – on a mat or rug.

“Relax” takes the lying-down behavior one calm step further; I teach Relax to mean “lie flat on your side for an extended period of time.” I know a dog has dependably learned this behavior when she falls asleep shortly after being cued and rewarded for relaxing flat on her side!

How to Teach “Settle”

This exercise teaches your dog to lie quietly at your side while you are otherwise engaged. It’s a great behavior to practice while watching television; you’re just hanging out anyway!

1. Sit in a chair with your dog next to you and invite her to lie down with a cue for this behavior. (Although it’s preferable if she already understands a cue for Down, if she doesn’t, you can lure her into the Down. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”)
2. Mark the moment she lies down (click or say “Yes!”) and give her a treat; then, before she has time to get up, quickly mark again and give her another treat. Note: If your marker tends to excite her, you can just feed the treat without marking. Make sure you feed treats directly to her mouth and low to the floor so she doesn’t stand up to reach the treat.
3. If she’s not already lying with her weight shifted onto one hip, encourage her to rock onto one hip by moving the treat to the side in a semi-circle toward her ribs.

Do this in small steps (lure-shaping) until she voluntarily rocks onto her hip; if you try to do too much, you risk making her uncomfortable and having her get up. Even worse, you can give her a negative association with the settle process, and then she won’t want to do it at all. For the same reason, do not ever try to physically push her onto her hip.

Many dogs will settle more easily on one side than the other, so if you’re having trouble getting her to do this, try luring her toward the other side. Repeat numerous times.

4. When your dog will settle onto one hip easily, say “Settle” just before you lure her onto her hip. Fade the lure (gradually stop using the lure) as soon as she’s easily settling onto one hip. Eventually she will settle when you give the cue, without needing the lure.
5. Gradually increase the duration of the relaxed-on-one-hip position by increasing the time between treats so she stays down by her own choice, waiting for the next mark and treat. As you decrease the number of marks, substitute calm praise (with no treats) in between the marks/treats. If your click or verbal marker tends to excite her, switch to praise sooner.
6. When your dog will stay down in the Settle position for 20 seconds or more, start using Settle cue without asking her to Down first.
7. Continue to decrease your rate of reinforcement (marks and treats) until she can lie quietly at your feet for an extended period with very little reinforcement.

How to Teach “Relax”

You can add Relax to your dog’s repertoire when she does Settle easily and with moderate duration, as this is an even more relaxed position than the rocked-on-one-hip pose.

First, ask your dog to Settle. Then with a treat in your hand, encourage her to roll flat onto one side by moving the lure in a “C” shape toward her ribcage, then up toward her spine. Be sure to roll her in the same direction you already started with the Settle. Again, you will likely need to lure-shape. Many dogs get a little stuck at the point when they actually have to tip over. Be sure to stay within her comfort zone to avoid making her uncomfortable, and again, do not ever try to physically push her onto her side. Add your Relax cue when you can easily lure her onto her side, then work on duration as described in Steps 5, 6, and 7 above.

Use a “Place Mat” for Portable Calm

Make sure to generalize your Settle and Relax cues by practicing these behaviors in a wide variety of different locations.

There is also great value in teaching your dog to settle and/or relax on her own personal “place mat” by practicing the behaviors on an easily portable towel, blanket, or mat that you can transport easily. That way, your dog will develop a strong association with being calm and relaxed on her mat for long periods. Then you can take the mat with you anywhere you go, significantly increasing your likelihood of success with your calm cues when bringing your canine pal with you to dine at an outdoor cafe, watch your child’s baseball game, visit friends, or wait in your vet’s lobby.

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Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

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A study published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science in 2021 determined that chewing was not motivated by play or activities, but 94% of households provide their dogs with a chew object.

In 2020, a study published in Frontiers in Psychology determined that chewing sticks was similar to the use of a tool. In other words, “If chewing is caused  by, at least in some cases, a pain in the teeth and some inclination to chew sticks given that pain, or occurs after consuming food that is likely to get stuck in their teeth, this direct and immediate function of the behavior should qualify as tool use.” Researchers hypothesized that a dog probably doesn’t understand the difference between chewing on a wood stick from the woods and wooden furniture. Maybe dental chews would help here.

What Dog Experts Think

Since dogs aren’t talking and scientists can’t find a solid reason for why dogs chew on wood and other things, we looked to dog experts for some consensus.  Here’s what we found

Wood likely offers a natural smell with a satisfying hardness that the dog can chew and pull apart. It’s just nature’s favorite toy. Note: Remember, wood chewing is fraught with potential veterinary emergencies, from splinters in the mouth to pieces lodged in the gastrointestinal tract and more.

Puppies need to chew, as it helps soothe sore gums, just as it does a baby who is teething.

For adult dogs, boredom appears to play a part in chewing. You leave your dog every day while you go to work or school. He probably sleeps for most of that time, but eventually he gets tired of looking at four walls and through the window at a pesky squirrel. So, one day he gnaws on a nearby table leg – and it’s fun and handy.

Anxiety can cause a dog to chew. Take that same dog but change his temperament to one that is anxious about being alone, who hears noises and voices everywhere. To calm himself, he chews up a chair from the kitchen table.

The third reason is somewhat supported by research, at least the tool idea. It’s oral health. Dogs may have an instinct to exercise their jaws and clean their teeth- or just a drive to make them feel better. Sticks and furniture are hard and rough, so they’re good for that.

What Can You Do?

Buy him safe chew toys! The type of chew toys you get depends on your dog. A Chihuahua or Miniature Poodle won’t want anything big or too hard, but a strong chewer like a Doberman or German Shepherd need big and strong toys. Kong and Planet Dog are just two companies approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council that make toys that will probably last your dog’s lifetime.

More exercise or activity will help your dog – and you. Take him on longer walks, especially before you go to work. Make more play time. Take him places to stimulate his brain.

Deterrents

To stop compulsive or confirmed chewing right away, you can mix apple cider vinegar with water and then spray or paint it on the things you don’t want him to eat. It has a sour taste that dogs don’t like, and it won’t hurt him.

But the long-lasting effect of behavior modification – with toys and exercise – is what you really need to discourage your dog’s craving for furniture.

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I think that part of the problem is that people take walking together for granted; they just sort of expect their dogs to know to stay near them. But if you’ve ever walked with your dog off-leash, you know that the way most humans walk doesn’t come close to the way that most dogs walk. We tend to move forward with purpose – we know where we are going and we tend to travel at a steady pace. In contrast, left to their own devices, almost all dogs will run ahead, stop to smell things, fall behind, race to catch up, and run ahead, repeating this cycle for any but the longest walks. On very long walks, they might start to walk with us out of sheer tiredness – but the sight of a strange bird or bunny or friend ahead on the trail will stimulate them into another race ahead/fall back/run to catch up sequence.

Also, our walking speed tends to be faster than the walking pace of many dogs, but slower than their usual trot. They have to constantly adjust – walk, trot, walk, trot – to match our monotonous trudge, and that’s annoying! But not nearly as aggravating as the fact that we hardly ever stop to smell anything.

The reality is, most people are just as vexed with their dogs’ leash manners as their dogs are with the humans’ lack of recognition of canine needs and wants. Frustrated dogs, getting few opportunities to do anything enjoyable on the walk, start to tune out and ignore their human’s effort to guide or control them, which tends to lead to the purchase and use of pain-inflicting dog-management tools such as prong, pinch, or choke collars. I call them management tools rather than training tools, because no one seems to use them in a way that would teach the dog to stop pulling; sadly, most dogs I see wearing these collars are still pulling and ignoring their owners! It’s just that the owners have a little more leverage than they did with a flat collar.

If you’re struggling with your dog on walks, don’t delay any longer. Invest in a few private or group dog-training lessons with a force-free trainer who can show you how to make it worth your dog’s while to walk alongside you. You (and your dog) will be so glad you did.

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Types of Barking

Strategies for modifying barking behavior vary depending on the cause. Here are the most common reasons for canine vocal communications, as well as the most effective strategies for dealing with each:

• Alarm Barking. The dog who alarm-barks may save you from danger: “The house is on fire!” She’s doing her job – letting you know there’s something to be concerned about.

Alarm barkers can save lives, but sometimes their judgment about what constitutes an alarm-appropriate situation can be a little faulty. Sometimes it’s just someone walking past your house.

To manage alarm-barking, reduce your dog’s exposure to stimuli that can cause arousal. Baby-gate her out of the front room, move furniture away from windows so she can’t jump up and see out, close drapes, or use opaque film on the lower half of the windows to obscure your dog’s view. Outdoors, you can install a privacy fence, attach a solid barrier to your see-through chain-link fencing, or put up an interior fence to block her access to the more stimulating parts of the yard.

You can use counter-conditioning and desensitization to modify alarm barking: Sit with your dog at the window. When someone walks by, let her look, feed a high-value tidbit, let her look again, feed again, until the passerby is out of sight. When you’re not there to feed, prevent access to windows that look out on passersby.

It’s also useful to teach a positive interrupt to stop your dog in mid-bark. (See “The Positive Interrupt,” below.)

Before you use the interrupt, however, investigate why your dog is barking. Perhaps your house really is on fire!

• Alert Barking. This is a less-aroused communication to tell you there’s something of interest; a hawk perching on the back fence, or Dad’s car pulling in the driveway. You can manage and modify in the same manner as alarm-barking, and use the positive interrupt. This is usually easier because the emotional level is lower.
• Anxiety Barking. This is a complex and challenging behavior to modify and manage, because true anxiety is a real panic attack – the dog truly cannot control her behavior.

Significant anxiety usually requires the intervention of a positive behavior consultant, and often, behavior modification drugs. You will need to consult with a professional behavior counselor and manage the environment to minimize exposure to anxiety-producing conditions while you help your dog learn how to cope. See “Extreme Anxiety in Dogs,” WDJ February 2022.

• Boredom Barking. The backyard barking dog is often lonely and bored. Boredom barking is usually continuous, with a monotonous quality. This barking is very annoying to neighbors and may elicit a visit from a local animal control officer.

The answer here is relatively easy. Bring the dog inside. Many outdoor barkers are perfectly content to lie quietly around the house all day and sleep peacefully beside your bed at night. If your dog isn’t house-safe, crates, exercise pens, dog walkers, exercise, and doggie daycare can keep her out of trouble until she earns house privileges. Employ environmental enrichment, such as interactive toys (food-stuffed toys and puzzles), to keep her brain engaged and her mouth busy. See “The Best Food-Dispensing Dog Toys,” April 2019, for some of WDJ’s favorites.

• Demand Barking. A demand barker gets what she wants (usually attention or treats) by making noise. An adorable little grumble can quickly turn into insistent, loud barks. Preempt the development of demand barking by randomly giving your dog attention and treats for being quiet, before she starts barking.

It’s easiest to extinguish demand barking early – as soon as you notice that your dog has learned to do this. The longer a dog has been reinforced, the more persistently she’ll bark when you try to ignore her. However, ignoring is the best answer. No treats, no attention – not even eye contact. The instant the barking starts, utter a cheerful “Oops!” and turn your back. When she’s quiet, say, “Quiet, yes!” and reinforce the quiet behavior by returning your attention to her.

When you’re extinguishing a behavior by ignoring it, your dog may initially increase her “I WANT IT!” behavior. This is called an extinction burst. If you stick it out and wait for the barking to stop, you’re well on your way to making it go away. If you give up and look at her, thinking extinction isn’t working, you’ve reinforced more intense barking, and your dog is likely to get more intense next time. Try to never give in when your dog is exhibiting an extinction burst, but reinforce as quickly as possible when she’s quiet.

• Frustration Barking. Dogs with a low tolerance for frustration bark persistently when they can’t get what they want. This is an “I WANT IT!” communication similar to demand barking, but directed at the thing she wants, rather than at you.

You can use the positive interrupt and counter conditioning to redirect frustration barking. If you consistently offer high-value treats in the presence of frustration-causing stimuli such as another dog yours wants to greet, your dog will learn to look to you for treats when the other dog is present rather than erupt into frustration barking.

• Greeting/Excitement Barking. If your dog hails you with hellos when you return home, shift into ignore mode. Stand outside and wait for the cacophony to subside, then enter calmly; no hug-fests or “I missed you!” sessions. Greet your dog when she’s calm and quiet. If she starts to bark again, mark the unwanted behavior with an “Oops!” and ignore her some more.

For high-volume greetings directed toward arriving guests, again, go into calm mode. Loud verbal reprimands just add to chaos. Use your positive interrupt and calmly put your dog in another room – then greet your visitors. Alternatively, use counter-conditioning to get her to anticipate treats rather than barking when visitors arrive.

• Play Barking. As other dogs – or humans – romp and play, the play-barker runs around cheerleading. If neighbors won’t complain and the other dogs tolerate the behavior, you might just let it be. With children, however, the behavior is not appropriate; for some dogs, excitement can escalate into play biting, so it’s best to remove your dog from the kids’ play area if she’s getting too aroused.

To modify play-barking you can try “negative punishment,” where the dog’s behavior makes the good stuff go away. When the barking starts, use a time-out marker such as “Oops!” and gently remove your dog for one to three minutes; a short leash attached to the collar, just long enough to grab but not so long that it drags, can make this easier. Then release her to play again. As she comes to realize that barking ends the fun, she may get the idea. Or not; this is a pretty strong genetic behavior, especially with herding breeds.

Another tactic is to teach your dog to hold a favorite toy in her mouth; it’s hard to bark with a toy in your mouth!

Be Proactive with Barking Modification

Uncontrolled barking can be frustrating. I know this all too well, with three vocal dogs currently in my family. However, our dogs sometimes have important things to say. One day I was engrossed in writing an article and our dogs were alarm barking ferociously in the backyard. I reluctantly got up to investigate. No, the house wasn’t on fire, but I did find a sick groundhog in the yard.

You want to be able to have some influence over your dog’s voice, but don’t lose sight of the value of her vocal communications; she may be saying something important. If you ignore her, she might do combat with a rabid skunk in the yard, a thief might steal the car out of the garage, or the house might burn down!

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We suspect there are a lot of reasons why dogs roll and, while behaviorists are amazing scientists, the dogs aren’t talking. One thing we know for sure – because dogs tell us with their body language and the above study says they saw it most during play – is that rolling feels good!

Dogs My Roll Because of Itchy Skin

Some dogs do roll because they’re trying to scratch an itch they can’t reach any other way. This is perfectly normal. The one thing we know for sure – because they tell us with their body language and facial expressions – is that it feels good to them, especially rolling in grass.

Excessive scratching, however, especially to the point of damaging the hair or the skin, could be a sign of a problem, such as fleas, ticks, parasites, pain, or an allergy. If that is the case, veterinary help is necessary.

Dog Roll to Hide Their Scent

Animal experts believe another cause of rolling goes back millions of years – to when dogs were wild and had to hunt for food. They roll in a scent other than their own to hide their own scent, so their prey won’t smell them as they approach.

And usually the smellier it is, the better it is. Other animals’ urine or feces, or even a dead animal, are best for the job of masking.

We know that dogs smell in layers, unlike humans. For instance, when we find a rose that smells like a skunk sprayed it, we only smell the skunk spray. But a dog smells the skunk spray and the rose.

Similarly, a dog can smell a tree that two or more dogs have marked with urine and identify those dogs. And when you see your dog sniffing the breeze, he’s identifying scents familiar and foreign, and dogs have an uncanny ability to smell things, which is one of the reasons they are such an asset in criminal investigations. Dogs enjoy scent, which may be one of the reasons scent games are increasing.

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