Typical canine allergic reactions are itchy skin or gastrointestinal signs that develop over time. With anaphylaxis, things happen quickly. Anaphylactic shock is a full-blown, immediate reaction to an allergen.

What Is Anaphylaxis?

Anaphylaxis is a “type 1 hypersensitivity reaction,” which is an immediate, huge reaction to an allergen. It’s an overreaction, basically, with a massive output of histamine by mast cells.

In people, the first reaction is usually respiratory. In dogs, diarrhea and vomiting are the most reported first signs, as the liver is a primary target organ. Swelling (hives), drooling, shock, seizures, difficulty breathing, and death may follow quickly.

Dogs Anaphylaxis Timeline

Signs of anaphylaxis tend to start within 5 to 30 minutes of exposure to the offending antigen and worsen. In dogs, drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea are usually noticed first. If an insect bite or sting is involved, you may see hives or obvious tissue swelling right away. When anaphylaxis hits, it can quickly become anaphylactic shock.

In anaphylactic shock, the dog’s blood vessels dilate, so less oxygenated blood is available to the tissues. The heart speeds up to compensate, but vital organs like the brain and the heart itself are deprived. Anaphylactic shock is not common, but it can be fatal without rapid treatment. If you suspect this severe allergic reaction, head to the nearest veterinary clinic ASAP. Call them on the way, so they know you’re arriving.

Treatment for Dogs with Anaphylactic Shock

Treatment aims at counteracting the histamine release that is behind the clinical signs. Your veterinarian will administer corticosteroids and antihistamines along with epinephrine to work to constrict those dilated blood vessels. Dogs who are severely affected may need an endotracheal tube placed to ensure breathing is not threatened. Intravenous fluids may be required to restore vascular homeostasis (blood vessel function).

People known to suffer from anaphylaxis are often dispensed an EpiPen so they can get epinephrine right away. There are currently no EpiPens for dogs. However, because epinephrine is the main drug for treatment, your veterinarian may prescribe an EpiPen “off label” with very clear instructions for use, if a dog is at risk for anaphylactic shock. This may not be possible with small- or medium-sized dogs.

Prevention of Anaphylaxis

Obviously, if your dog has suffered an anaphylactic event, you want to avoid a recurrence. If the reaction was due to an insect sting, you will need to be super vigilant about checking your yard and home for insects such as bees and wasps.

If you can identify a food trigger, avoid that food. The same for a medication trigger. There are almost always other medications that can provide the same, or very similar treatment.

With vaccinations, if the reaction was mild (simple swelling of the muzzle for example), your veterinarian may break your dog’s vaccines down and limit him to only the necessary core vaccines, given a month apart.

Veterinarians often will pre-medicate the dog by having you come in early for an appointment and giving your dog some corticosteroids, for example. They will often then have you wait for at least 30 minutes before leaving the clinic to catch any possible reaction early on. For some dogs, going to titers to verify immunity is a solution, although many states will not accept titers for proof of rabies vaccination.

The post Anaphylaxis in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

You may notice a small amount of clear serum, or even some blood leaking from the incision post op. This should stop after a day or so. You need to gently clean this from around the incision and watch for any skin irritation.

Some dogs experience “clipper burn” from their hair being shaved and may appreciate some lotion on the red areas. Problems like an infected (red, inflamed) or swollen spay incision should be reported to your veterinarian immediately. As a guideline, consider that:

Minor concerns require observation and reporting to your veterinarian if they worsen. These include:

• Small amount of swelling with no or minimal clear discharge (might be pink tinged)
• Slight red irritation around incision (like clipper burn)

More serious concerns should be reported to your veterinarian. These include:

• Swelling, discharge that might look like pus
• Swelling is red and/or painful
• Fever, not eating well
• Continued bleeding (small amount) from the incision

Emergency concerns mean get to the vet now. Call the veterinarian or emergency clinic immediately to say you’re on your way if you notice:

• Swelling that is painful with an opening to the abdomen palpable
• Gastrointestinal signs such as vomiting or diarrhea
• Incision is open to the abdomen, possibly intestines outside the abdomen
• Non-stop bleeding from the incision

Most dogs come through spay surgery just fine and are back to normal activity and a flat belly in no time. Healing tissues are fragile, however. It is your responsibility to make sure your dog stays quiet. Overexertion can cause a post spay hernia.

Pay attention to the instructions you receive post-surgery, which may include very short leash walks and no running or romping with other dogs. The less movement in the area, the faster the tissues can heal.

Stop Licking or Chewing at the Incision

It is vital to prevent your dog from licking or chewing at the incision. She might remove sutures well before the outer layer is healed, which then allows her access to inner layers too. Your dog’s mouth and saliva are not sterile so she could introduce bacteria into the damaged tissues and cause an abscess.

If licking and chewing lead to infection, your dog will need to go on some antibiotics. She may also need warm compresses to help any abscessed area drain.

Licking and chewing can be stopped in many ways:

• The infamous Elizabethan collar. This is the inexpensive a wide, hard plastic collar we’re all familiar with. It is effective, but dogs tend to not adapt well to them.
• A soft donut-shaped collar. Kind of like a wide pillow around her neck that she can’t reach around.
• A neck brace. Be very careful with fit to be sure your dog sure your dog can’t reach around and still lick or chew.
• A post-surgical suit. These suits look like close-fitting pajamas that protect the incision site from licking and chewing. An inexpensive option is to try a human baby onesie, which will cover the incision and fit closely enough to protect it.

If you choose to use a surgical suit or a onesie, be sure your dog can eliminate without getting the suit soiled, which may entail you unbuttoning it. Most importantly, it should be comfortable for your dog to lie down in, walk around in, and sleep with it on.

Understanding Spay Incision Healing

A spay incision has a multilayer closure. After removing the uterus and ovaries, your veterinarian sutured the abdominal wall, the subcutaneous tissues, and the skin. The skin closure may have obvious sutures or may be closed with subcuticular stitches (you can’t see any sutures with this method). Other options are wound glue, which is not used very often, and skin staples.

Incisions heal side to side and not end to end, so a long incision heals as fast as a short one. Older dogs, chubby dogs, and deep-bodied dogs often require slightly longer incisions for your veterinarian to safely tie off all blood vessels and remove both ovaries and the uterus. Don’t go comparing incision lengths with your friends! It will be different for each dog.

With a perfect recovery, your dog will basically have a flat abdomen. If she gets swelling at the incision site it could be a couple of causes:

A seroma. In this case, the body puts some fluid in the area due to irritation or a mild allergic reaction to the suture materials. In this case, there is no redness, minimal heat or pain associated with the swelling. With time, the fluid will resorb, and your dog will be svelte once more. Warm compresses may be recommended to speed up resorption times.

A post-surgery hernia. This is an uncommon event but requires a veterinary visit ASAP. In this case, the inner suture lines have broken down. That leaves an opening from the abdomen to under the skin. Unfortunately, intestines could be trapped there with serious consequences, especially if they twist and the blood supply is cut off, which can lead to necrotic, dead tissue. Most dogs with a hernia will show pain, many have gastrointestinal upsets, and an opening may be palpable. If the incision totally opens, it is an immediate emergency!

Most Spays Are Simple

If your dog is young with a good weight, and healthy, her recovery will go quickly and smoothly. Even so, I would wait for three to four weeks before doing things like herding sheep or running agility, especially if the dog is older. Remember that your dog has lost some muscle and fitness with the time for surgery recovery, so plan to build her back up a bit.

If your dog’s spay was in conjunction with a C-section, pyometra (infected uterus), or cancer surgery, expect her recovery to be a bit slower. She will most likely be put on antibiotics and may have more extensive restrictions on activity. If she was producing milk, you will need to watch for signs of mastitits: a red, swollen, painful gland; fever; unusual discharge (not normal milk).

The post Warning Signs After Spaying a Dog appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

“The difference between ingesting a frog and a toad can be quite massive, as toads can be very poisonous for dogs,” says Dr. Anna Robinson, a small animal veterinarian in New Braunfels, Texas.

“Frogs in North America mostly cause mild to moderate gastrointestinal issues with your dog. You’ll typically see some vomiting and diarrhea that’ll correct itself over the span of a few days many times without veterinary intervention required. For frogs, you just pretty much wait it out and just comfort your dog while he goes through the symptoms,” she says. “Just make sure he doesn’t become dehydrated. If so, then you need to call your veterinarian.”

If you can’t reach your veterinarian or an emergency animal clinic, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 or the Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661. There will be a charge for their services, but it’s well worth the cost. If you call, be sure to also get your case number to follow-up with your veterinarian.

Toads Secrete Poison

Certain species of toads can secrete a toxin that can poison animals who attempt to ingest them. Whether a dog licks or completely ingests a toad, he can suffer from excessive drooling, vomiting and/or irritation in the mouth or worse.

More severe poisonings can happen with the cane toad and the Colorado River/Sonoran Desert toads. The cane toad is typically found in Florida, Hawaii, Louisiana, Texas, and other tropical areas. The Colorado River/Sonoran Desert toad can be found in Arizona, California, New Mexico, and Texas. Both toads can cause life-threatening poisoning.

Signs of Poisoning

Symptoms you may see:

• Pawing at the mouth or vocalizing
• Gums may become very red and irritated
• Vomiting and diarrhea
• Stumbling (progressive)
• Tremors/seizures (progressive)
• Abnormal eye movement (progressive)
• Difficulty breathing (progressive)
• Decreased heart rate and abnormal heart rhythms (progressive)

Whether it was a frog or a toad, immediately flush the mouth with large amounts of running water using a hose or garden sink sprayer. Doing so will decrease the amount of poison absorbed, which decreases the severity of the clinical signs. However, make sure you point the water out of the dog’s mouth, as you do not want him to swallow or inhale the water. And then get to the veterinarian’s office ASAP.

At the Vet’s Office

The veterinarian will prescribe treatment depending on the signs that develop as well as the type of toad and amount of ingestion. Treatment might include:

• Intravenous fluids
• Anti-nausea medication
• Muscle relaxants
• Medications to control the heart rate or seizures
• Possible surgery to remove ingested toads

“It can be difficult for an owner to be able to distinguish between a frog and a toad, but it’s important to know your amphibians,” says Dr. Robinson. “It could save your dog’s life.”

The post My Dog Ate a Frog (or Was It a Toad?) appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

The symptoms of xylitol poisoning can start within 20 minutes. Signs include:

• Vomiting
• Decreased activity level
• Weakness and collapse
• Difficulty walking or standing
• Shaking or seizures
• Coma
• Liver failure
• Bleeding problems

Xylitol is a sugar substitute known as a sugar alcohol. It can be found in many different household items toxic to dogs. Including sugar-free gums and mints, adult and children’s chewable vitamins and supplements, baked goods, mouthwash and toothpaste, cough syrup and other liquid medications, and even some brands of peanut butter.

How xylitol affects dogs

Xylitol stimulates a dog’s pancreas to produce large quantities of insulin. Insulin is the hormone that allows glucose (sugar) to be taken up from the bloodstream and into the body’s cells. A sudden large influx of insulin causes so much glucose to be taken up by the cells in a dog’s body that his blood glucose drops to dangerously low levels. This is known as hypoglycemia.

Hypoglycemia from xylitol ingestion can occur quickly, often within the first 10 to 15 minutes of ingestion. Low blood sugar can cause ataxia (wobbly gait), vomiting, tremors, weakness, and seizures. Untreated xylitol ingestion can progress to coma and death.

Xylitol can also cause liver damage when ingested in high quantities. Dogs with xylitol-related liver damage may develop difficulty clotting. This can cause bruising and internal bleeding.

Treatment for Xylitol Poisoning

If your dog has ingested xylitol, your veterinarian will recommend that your dog be hospitalized on intravenous fluids. He will need to receive intravenous dextrose (a form of sugar) and have his blood glucose levels monitored every two to four hours. Dogs who have ingested xylitol are typically hospitalized for 24 to 48 hours until they are able to maintain a normal blood glucose without dextrose supplementation.

Dogs who develop xylitol-induced liver damage require more intensive care. They often require one or more transfusions of fresh frozen plasma – a blood product that contains proteins and clotting factors but not red blood cells – to replace the clotting factors their livers are not able to produce. They also are given medications to help support and protect their livers from further damage. Dogs with xylitol-induced liver damage are typically hospitalized for three to five days and sometimes longer, depending on their response to treatment.

If your veterinarian is not able to provide round-the-clock care for your dog, she may recommend that your dog be transferred to an emergency and critical care hospital. Upon transfer, your dog will be hospitalized in an intensive care unit in order to receive continuous monitoring and dedicated nursing care.

Dogs who receive quick intervention and appropriate treatment for xylitol ingestion have a good chance of a fast recovery. Dogs who develop xylitol-induced liver damage will have a prolonged recovery that may require medications and follow-up bloodwork for a month or more following discharge from the hospital.

Why do I need to call poison control if my dog ingested xylitol?

We know that xylitol is toxic to dogs. So why do I need to contact poison control if my dog has ingested a product containing xylitol?

Although xylitol may be in a product’s ingredient list, the amount of xylitol is not specifically listed on the label. You may notice an entry for “sugar alcohol” on the nutrition label. Most products that contain xylitol also contain other sugar alcohols, like maltitol and sorbitol. These are not toxic to dogs but are included in the total gram count of sugar alcohols on the label. This means that we cannot rely on the amount of sugar alcohol on the label to tell us how much xylitol a product contains.

The amount of xylitol a product contains can vary by flavor. For example, the popular sugar-free gum Ice Breakers has a wide variety of flavors. Each gum flavor contains a different amount of xylitol. Therefore, a dog who ingested strawberry daiquiri flavored Ice Breakers may have received a different dose of xylitol than a dog who ingested the grape flavored Ice Breakers.

ASPCA Poison Control maintains an extensive database of potentially toxic products and the amount of toxin each product contains. This organization is staffed by veterinary toxicologists, veterinarians, and licensed veterinary technicians that have been trained in toxicology. The information and advice they provide is constantly being updated based on the latest science, toxic product information, and medical knowledge about our pets.

When you and your veterinarian consult with ASPCA Poison Control, they formulate a customized treatment plan tailored to your dog and the toxin he ingested. Your veterinarian will also be able to follow-up with an ASPCA toxicologist during the course of your dog’s treatment. There is an initial consultation fee charged by ASPCA Poison Control that covers creating your dog’s customized treatment plan and any adjustments to that plan.

The level of treatment intervention may vary depending on how much your dog weighs, how much xylitol he ingested, any medications your dog receives, and your dog’s current health condition. The amount of xylitol-containing product recovered from making your dog vomit, how long it has been since your dog ate the product, and whether or not your dog is already showing symptoms of xylitol ingestion will also influence the treatment plan.

If the amount of xylitol your dog ingested is within a certain range, then your dog may only require monitoring and treatment for hypoglycemia. But if your dog ingested an amount that is known to potentially cause liver damage or failure, then it may be recommended to begin interventions to protect your dog’s liver before the damage or failure becomes clinically apparent.

Contacting ASPCA Poison Control when your dog has ingested a xylitol-containing product is one of the best things you can do to help your dog!

The post Xylitol Poisoning appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Last month, we covered one of the most common orthopedic injuries in dogs – the cranial cruciate ligament tear. This month, we’re going to talk about how to fix it.

The 4 Most Common Options for Treating Dogs’ Cruciate Ligaments

The most common options discussed after the diagnosis of a cruciate ligament tear are:

1. Braces
2. Lateral suture
3. Tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO surgery)
4. Tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA surgery)

There are other procedures out there, but there’s a reason these are the four most common treatments offered.

The truth is, we do not have a perfect solution. Research is constantly evolving and we are still in search of the perfect fix. In humans, a synthetic or biologic ligament is placed where the damaged ligament used to sit. This was tried in dogs, but the outcomes were never good. The replacement ligaments were just not well tolerated. Consequently, something different had to be done.

Braces for Ligament Injuries

Bracing the stifle is no small task. It’s an incredibly dynamic joint that provides spring, shock absorption, and the ability to turn on a dime. The key to a brace is stability and fit.

Braces for a cruciate tear may cost $1,000 or more. There are inexpensive options, but bargains are not a great idea when it comes to your dog’s lifelong comfort.

Ideally, a knee brace is custom-fit for your dog, sometimes involving a mold made of his joint. This ensures good fit and appropriate flex. Remember, the knee still needs to bend to be useful! A brace cannot provide complete stability, but it can alleviate some of the pain from a joint that is moving improperly.

The two canine-brace companies most often recommended by vets are OrthoPets and Hero Braces. It’s important to remember that a brace does not fix a cruciate tear, it simply helps to stabilize the knee. Success depends on selecting the right brace, a good physical therapy program, and a commitment to refitting as needed.

The Lateral Suture Procedure

The lateral suture procedure (also known as the extracapsular repair) is the closest thing to the repair done in humans. This does not make it the best choice. This is one of the first surgeries developed when it was determined that repairing the ligament directly was not a good option.

In this procedure, a heavy gauge suture is placed outside of the knee joint in the same direction that the cranial cruciate ligament used to run. A hole is drilled through the front of the tibia (the lower leg bone). The suture is passed through this hole and then up and around a small bone, called a fabella, behind the femur (the upper leg bone). The creates a loop that is similar in location and direction to the cranial cruciate ligament, but outside of the joint.

This is an important distinction. Because this surgery does not involve opening the joint, the meniscus (the cartilage cushion that provides shock absorption in a joint) is not always evaluated for tears. The jury’s still out on this procedure, but most surgeons feel a torn meniscus can cause persistent pain.

Ultimately, the goal of this surgery is not to repair the cruciate ligament, but rather to direct the growth of scar tissue. Basically, the suture provides a scaffold for scar tissue to form along the same path as the torn cruciate ligament, thereby stabilizing the joint. Over time, this suture will break down. It’s not meant to last forever, just long enough for enough scar tissue to form.

This procedure is quick, relatively inexpensive (typically $1,500 to $2,000) compared to other surgical repairs, and can often be performed by your regular veterinarian. However, it’s not for every case.

If the suture breaks before sufficient scar tissue is laid down to stabilize the joint, the entire surgery becomes ineffective. If a dog is too big or too active, you can almost guarantee failure. Most veterinarians recommend this surgery only for dogs who are less than 40 pounds or dogs who are happy being couch potatoes. Having said that, finances are an important part of any veterinary decision, and this is definitely the least expensive surgical option.

TPLO and TTA Surgery

The tibial plateau leveling osteotomy (TPLO) and the tibial tuberosity advancement (TTA) procedures are both aimed at mechanically altering the joint to make the cranial cruciate ligament unnecessary. Both surgeries require the surgeon to open the joint, so the meniscus can be evaluated for tears. These are somewhat complicated surgeries and involve a complex understanding of the knee joint, but we’ll cover the basics.

In last month’s article, I described the structure of the canine stifle joint and how it differs from the human knee. The slope to the tibia is one of the biggest contributing factors to this injury. In the TPLO surgery, this slope is taken out of play. A circular cut is made in the top of the tibia and the slope is rotated into a neutral position. A plate is used to secure the bone in its new position. This creates a knee joint that closely resembles the human knee joint. Without that slope, the cranial cruciate ligament is no longer as important; the knee is stable without it. This surgery is typically performed only by boarded surgeons and costs around $4,000.

This procedure has the fastest reported return to normal activity, meaning dogs who get this surgery are able to return to a comfortable life faster than any other procedure out there. However, it’s not without drawbacks.

Aside from the cost, there is risk of failure. When a dog is too active immediately after surgery, the plate can break or move. Failure of the plate can be catastrophic. Recovery is an eight-week process, involving first crate rest, then physical therapy, and a gradual increase back to running in the yard.

Similar to the TPLO, the TTA changes the forces in the knee joint to render the cranial cruciate ligament unnecessary. In this case, a cut is made in the front of the tibia. This piece of bone is moved forward, which pulls on the patellar tendon and neutralizes the backward motion of the femur during weightbearing. This lets the dog move comfortably without an intact cruciate ligament.

In this case, a specialized device consisting of a “cage” and a “fork” is used to secure the bone in its new position. Over time, it heals fully and is very stable. If it were to fail, a TPLO procedure can still be performed.

The recovery time for these two surgeries is similar, but dogs typically take a little longer to be fully comfortable after the TTA surgery. The cost is a bit less than a TPLO, but it is also an expensive procedure – usually in the $3,000 to $3,500 range. It is typically performed only by boarded surgeons, but there are some general practitioners who are comfortable with it and have the necessary equipment.

Don’t Self-Medicate

When your dog hurts, you may tempted to look in the medicine cabinet for something to ease her pain. But there are very few over-the-counter human medications that you can safely give your dog.

Many years ago, we used aspirin for pain in dogs. However, studies have shown that the pain control offered by aspirin is pretty minimal and it has serious side effects. Aspirin increases bleeding tendencies by inhibiting platelets, a key component in clotting blood. Aspirin use also limits the options that your vet has to treat your dog’s pain because of how it interacts with other medications.

Ibuprofen should never be given to dogs as it can cause irreversible liver damage and can even be fatal. Tylenol (acetaminophen) has its place in veterinary medicine, but only under the guidance of a veterinarian because, with certain other diseases, it can be very dangerous.

If your dog is in pain, resist the urge to toss her a human pain-killer. Your veterinarian has an arsenal of medications that are safe for dogs and will work much better than what you have at home.

If Your Puppy Is a Lemon, Make Lemonade!

Shortly after our dog Agnes was born, she was considered the pick of the litter for Paws with a Cause, a local organization that trains service dogs. However, at her very first veterinary appointment at just eight weeks old, she was found to have hip dysplasia and “trick knees” – which, in her case, had her kneecaps slipping to the outside of the joint.

Because of these problems, she couldn’t be a service dog and she couldn’t be adopted to the public. She needed thousands of dollars in surgery to fix her back legs! Euthanasia was being considered for this little “lemon” of a puppy. In a lucky twist of fate, she found her way to our doorstep, just when we were looking for a new companion for our family.

Agnes underwent three major surgeries at just four months old. A local veterinary surgeon offered her services pro bono, using Agnes as a teaching case to learn a new procedure. Agnes’ pelvis and both of her knees needed corrective procedures. Fortunately, her recovery was smooth and she grew into a lovely and beloved dog.

Shortly after she turned three years old, Agnes came up lame after playing with a puppy. Due to her history, we were immediately worried that it was one of her hips, but her limp was intermittent and it didn’t seem painful when her hips were manipulated. It gradually became clear that one of her knees was the problem and she was diagnosed with a partial tear of her left cranial cruciate ligament.

For the next six weeks, Agnes was placed on strict cage rest and a physical therapy program to try to keep her injury from progressing. But three months later, when she was finally allowed to play, she immediately came up three-legged lame; she had torn her ligament completely.

We took her right away to a board-certified surgeon who assessed her knees and we came up with a plan. She underwent a TPLO procedure the very next day to repair her joint yet again. Because of Agnes’ other orthopedic problems, her young age, and her generally wild demeanor, we decided that a TPLO was the best option for a good long-term outcome. This surgery stabilized her joint and decreased her risk of arthritis down the road.

Her rehab seemed far longer than the eight weeks it actually was, especially since she felt comfortable after just a day post-surgery! But the surgery was worth every penny and the rehab was worth every minute of activity restriction. Now, two years later, she’s back to her old antics and shows no sign of lingering discomfort!

Ligament Injury Treatment Conclusions

Again, there is no perfect solution. Every single option is valid for a different circumstance. The important thing is figuring out which solution works for your dog. Older, smaller dogs who are less active often do great with a lateral suture repair! A two-year-old Lab with bad hips needs a bit more stability in the knee, so a plate repair (either the TPLO or TTA) would be a better option.

Your location might make the decision; most surgeons learn one procedure and stick with it, so both might not be offered near you. The two procedures have similar success rates and are both recommended for larger, more active dogs.

Bracing and what’s often referrred to as “conservative management” is simply not as successful as the surgical options, but when surgery is not an option, it’s better than nothing.

With time, the limp from a cruciate tear will improve without any intervention. Scar tissue will form and the joint will be useable, but the arthritis that will develop will limit the dog’s quality of life. This is not an emergency injury, but the sooner it’s addressed, the less arthritis and the better the long-term outcome.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, talk with your veterinarian! Be up front about financial constraints, recovery concerns, and long-term goals so that you can come up with a plan that’s right for you and your four-legged friend.

Kyle Grusling, DVM, practiced emergency medicine for three years before switching to a general practice, Northland Animal Hospital in Rockford, MI.

The post Cranial Cruciate Ligament Repair for Dogs: Your Options appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Because of her age and the fact that her growth plates were not yet closed, we decided the best option for the time being was conservative management, rather than surgery. Sirius healed well for a time and was medically cleared to return to low-impact sport training.

Sassafras Lowrey

Multiple Cruciate Ligament Tears in One Dog

This past summer, at 20 months old, Sirius began limping again. Just as before, there was no precipitating incident, and we were being assiduous in maintaining her low-impact lifestyle; we always lifted her in and out of cars, etc. Yet diagnostics showed that she had – again – partially torn her right cranial cruciate ligament and significantly torn her left CrCL.

This time, thankfully, her growth plates were closed, making Sirius an ideal candidate for surgery. We began meeting with and interviewing veterinary surgeons.

At the time, we were living in a multi-story Brooklyn townhouse. For some time, my partner and I had been talking about a move to the West Coast; suddenly, this seemed like the perfect time to make the move. We realized that if we moved first and Sirius had the surgery there, she could have an easier rehabilitation than would be possible in a home with as many stairs as our townhouse. That’s how we came to spend a couple of weeks sleeping on an air mattress and living downstairs (since Sirius couldn’t do stairs) as we packed up our life and put our house on the market. Then we drove cross-country with our three dogs (and three cats!) to our new single-story home in Portland, Oregon.

Sirius’ TPLO Surgery Plan

As we learned in our independent research and from meeting with multiple veterinary surgeons, the TPLO surgery has become the gold-standard treatment for this kind of knee injury, especially in very large, strong, young, athletic dogs. While waiting for Sirius’ growth plates to close, we saw firsthand how conservative management worked – and then didn’t. We were looking for a treatment option that gave Sirius the best chance at the kind of fun and normal life she deserved, one that would allow her to return to the activities and sports training that she loved.

We had a surgical consultation scheduled for right after we arrived in Portland, and Sirius was scheduled to go in for surgery a few days later.

Sassafras Lowrey

Sirius had bilateral TPLO – both knees operated on at the same time. It was determined at the time of surgery that Sirius had one fully torn knee (left) and one partially torn knee (right, with scar tissue from the months of conservative management we had to do when she was too young for surgery).

In addition, the surgeon recommended one more procedure: a meniscus release in both knees. There are actually two menisci in each knee, and in some cases, they can become “caught” on protrusions from the tibia within the knee joint, causing further pain and injury. In the meniscus-release procedure, some connective tissue is severed to divide the menisci and ensure that they can no longer get caught. The procedure decreases the chances of a subsequent meniscal tear, so we told the surgeon to go ahead.

TPLO Surgery Recovery and Rehab for Dogs

I have to say – recovery was no joke. My partner and I both work from home, so we were able to arrange our schedules in order to provide Sirius with around-the-clock care and supervision when she came home from the hospital; this started the day after surgery. It was incredible to see how she was bearing weight already! We didn’t leave Sirius alone for a minute until the staples came out, 16 days after surgery.

The day after the staples were removed, we began weekly visits with a veterinary physical therapist. Sirius’ treatments included laser therapy, time on an underwater treadmill, and guided structured exercise. The latter was essential, as it also gave us a tailored daily exercise plan to work on at home, as well as a schedule for daily walks that increased in length and intensity under the guidance of her therapist.

Sirius had her final surgical recheck at eight weeks post-surgery and had new x-rays taken. Her knees had healed beautifully. In total, we had done eight sessions with a physical therapist before Sirius graduated and was fully cleared to resume all normal activities and all sport training.

Prior to her knee injuries, Sirius was swimming regularly. To be extra safe, we booked a consultation with a veterinary swim specialist at a dog pool/swim center, to ensure that she was still a strong and collected swimmer. It was determined that surgery had no impact on her swim style and that it was safe for her to resume regular swimming and begin water work training next season.

At nine weeks post-surgery, Sirius returned to low-impact Rally obedience training; at 13 weeks post-surgery she competed in her first Rally trial.

Today, at not quite five months post-surgery, Sirius’ quality of life is beyond what I could have imagined. She completed her Champion Trick Dog Title, has returned to Rally training, enjoys hiking and visiting the beach, walks for more than an hour a day, runs in the backyard with my other dogs, swims in rivers, and basically is loving life in the Pacific Northwest. TPLO surgery gave back my young, exuberant, athletic dog the ability to live life to its fullest.

Sassafras Lowrey

Sassafras Lowrey is an award-winning author and Certified Trick Dog Instructor. Sassafras’ forthcoming books include Tricks in the City: For Daring Dogs and the Humans That Love Them, Healing/Heeling, and Bedtime Stories for Rescue Dogs: William to the Rescue.

The post Double TPLO Surgery for Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

One of the most common athletic injuries in humans is damage to the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in the knee. If they haven’t torn it themselves, most people know someone who has. In human athletes, this is known as the “plant and twist” injury. It’s seen most frequently when the foot is planted firmly and the knee is then either twisted or run into (picture those cringe-worthy clips of soccer and football players being hit from the side).

In dogs, we see this same injury, often resulting from the same sort of forces, but we also see chronic wear and tear leading to cruciate ligament tears. To fully understand why this is so, you need to appreciate the mechanics that lead to cruciate ligament injuries.

Canine Knee Anatomy

The knee joint in a dog is the point where the thigh bone (femur) and “calf bones” (tibia and fibula) come together and interact. Refer to Figure 1 (right) so you can fully understand what the dog’s knee is up against, literally and figuratively! Here are the anatomical terms you’ll need to know:

Femur – Upper leg bone extending from the hip to the knee.

Tibia – Primary lower leg bone extending from knee to ankle.

Fibula – Secondary lower leg bone extending from knee to ankle.

Stifle – Knee joint.

Cranial cruciate ligament (CrCL) – This ligament provides front-to-back stability (and a tiny bit of rotational stability) between the femur and tibia in the knee joint.

Meniscus – C-shaped cartilage cushion that provides shock absorption in a joint.

Dog Knees vs. Human Knees

Picture your dog standing: His knee joints are slightly bent, ready to propel him forward like a coiled spring. Now picture yourself standing next to your dog: Your knees are straight, possibly even locked in place. The disparity in the posture of our knees when we are standing is one of the biggest differences between dogs and humans – and it contributes to the frequency of injuries to dogs’ knees.

The bottom of the femur is rounded in both dogs and humans. The top of the tibia is flat. When a human is standing, that round femur rests neutrally on a flat surface. It takes very little effort to keep that position – and gravity helps. A round structure on a flat surface will pretty much stay in place, as long as that flat surface is level.

Now, think back to the dog. His knee is bent. That means that the round end of the femur is on a tilted platform. Something needs to keep that femur in place.

That something is, in large part, the cranial cruciate ligament. As the name implies, the cruciate ligaments – both caudal (toward the tail) and cranial (toward the head) – form an “X” in the knee joint, holding the femur to the tibia. The cranial cruciate ligament starts at the back of the femur and attaches to the front of the tibia. It is constantly being strained by the natural position that the dog stands in. The slope to the top of the tibia, combined with the round end of the femur, means that the femur is always trying to fall off the back of the tibia.

Ligament Tears in Dogs More Common Than in People

A loose string can be moved around with little risk of breakage, but the more you increase the tension on the string, the easier it will tear. The same is true of a ligament. So, in dogs, with this ligament under constant strain, tears are more common than in the human knee. In fact, this is the most common orthopedic injury that veterinarians see. In humans, this ligament gets periodic “rest” breaks and is really under strain only during physical activity. In dogs, it is in constant use – and over time, especially in large-breed or overweight dogs, it wears out.

A CrCL injury in a young, healthy dog is typically an athletic injury. In older dogs, it is usually an injury of chronic wear and tear. This explains why it’s so common for a dog who has damaged the CrCL on one side to then tear it on the other side. When you take one back leg out of commission, the work load shifts to the other, increasing the strain on the ligaments of the “good” leg.

This is simplifying things a bit. There are many contributing factors to this type of injury, from the dog’s build (conformation) to his activity level. Some things that can predispose a dog to this type of injury include obesity, a sedentary lifestyle, and other joint problems (such as “trick” knee caps). Overweight dogs experience far more strain on their joints than their fit counterparts. Dogs who are not very active also strain their ligaments more, as their untoned muscles don’t contribute much to the task of holding things in place.

Dogs Don’t Have ACLs (They Have CrCLs)

The ligament that provides front-to-back stability in the knee is called the cranial cruciate ligament (CrCL) in the dog, but the same ligament in the human knee is called the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL). Why the different anatomical names?

It has to do with how the front of a quadriped (four-legged animal) is described as compared to the front of a biped (two-legged animal).

In a quadriped, the “cranial” refers to the head end of the animal. The cranial side of the dog’s knee is the side closest to his head.

In an upright biped like a human, the same surface of the knee (as just one example) can’t accurately be described as being closest to his head. Instead, the “front” is called the anterior or ventral surface.

This can be confusing, especially when people refer to a dog’s ACL. It’s not the correct term, but when it’s used, it is meant to indicate the CrCL.

To add to the confusion, the cranial cruciate ligament is sometimes abbreviated as CCL and sometimes as CrCL. Since CCL could also stand for caudal cruciate ligament, we prefer the more precise abbreviation of CrCL.

Dogs Most At Risk for Torn Cruciates

Let’s look a bit deeper at the patients who most commonly present with this injury: small dogs, young big dogs, and old big dogs.

When a small-breed dog, young or old, is diagnosed with a torn cruciate ligament, it’s very important to check for a specific, concurrent problem – medially luxating patellas. This is a fancy way of saying knee caps that slip to the inside of the joint. This is a very common congenital problem for dogs under 20 lbs. When they are born with knee caps that move incorrectly, they are at higher risk for ligament tears because of the abnormal forces on the joint. This is important because it can and should be fixed at the same time as a torn cruciate ligament.

When a young large-breed dog is diagnosed with a torn cruciate, I look for conformation problems. Do his legs bow like a cowboy? Do his paws turn out like a duck? I also ask about activity level, since these are the dogs who will most commonly get this injury through athletic injury, just as with humans.

If it’s an older, bigger dog, it’s usually a wear-and-tear injury, which increases the risk for a tear in the other back leg.

All of these dogs have one thing in common, though: Their risk of a ligament tear is lower if they are fit and at an appropriate weight! Overweight dogs are at a much higher risk for joint problems in general, from arthritis and strains to fractures, dislocations, and ligament tears. Keeping your dog (young or old), active and at a healthy weight will stave off many potential problems.

Diagnosis of Canine Cruciate Ligament Injuries

So now we know the anatomy and the “why” of this injury. Let’s talk about how it’s diagnosed. Any dog who comes in with a back leg limp should be checked for a torn cranial cruciate ligament.

The first clue is a knee joint that feels swollen. Anytime the knee joint is swollen I am on high alert for a ligament tear.

To look for this injury, veterinarians do something called a “drawer test,” which involves moving the tibia in relation to the femur. If I can move the lower leg bone forward in the knee, the cranial cruciate ligament is not doing its job. Sometimes, in a big, strong dog, this requires sedation. But in small dogs, it’s pretty easy to do during a routine physical exam.

Once this injury is suspected, x-rays are the next test. Now, let me say this and say it loud: YOU CANNOT SEE A LIGAMENT ON AN X-RAY. Nevertheless, x-rays are still very important, because they let us double-check for other injuries (such as small bone fragments) and help us evaluate whether arthritis might already exist.

The position of the leg bones (as seen in the x-rays) will also give us clues as to whether and how severely torn the cruciate ligament might be; certain changes in the position of the bones can indicate that the ligaments are not stabilizing the joint properly. Finally, x-rays also help with planning for how to treat the injury (which we’ll talk about in the next issue).

Complicating Factor

A torn meniscus is one concurrent injury that can be suspected, but not diagnosed, until surgery. This is another injury that’s common to both human and canine knees.

The meniscus is a little piece of cartilage that provides cushioning and shock absorption in the knee. When the cruciate ligament is torn, that cartilage starts getting squished and rubbed in an abnormal way, which can lead to tears in the meniscus. A chronically torn meniscus may lead to further arthritis and discomfort in the future. There is no good data on whether or not removing a torn meniscus improves long-term pain control in the joint. Some surgeons recommend removal and some do not, but that’s a discussion to have on a dog-by-dog basis with your doctor.

Future Options

The stifle is a complex joint with a lot of working parts. The joint is prone to injury because of the way it’s formed and the way it’s used in the dog. A cranial cruciate ligament tear is not an emergency, but it’s worth a trip to your veterinarian to talk about options.

Cranial cruciate disease is a constellation of signs and symptoms that have a lot of different management options. We’ll dig into those options in the next issue. Until then, keep an eye on your dog. I bet you’ll notice a lot more of the dynamics of his knees than you did before!

A 2011 graduate of Michigan State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, Kyle Grusling, DVM, practiced emergency medicine for three years before switching to a general practice. Dr. Grusling works at Northland Animal Hospital in Rockford, Michigan.

The post Torn Cruciate Ligaments in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

1. Start a dog emergency fund.

Often, pet illnesses and injuries are sudden, unexpected, and very expensive. There are several ways to be prepared. Start a savings account for your pet. Also, consider pet insurance when adopting a new family member. Last, consider financing through a company such as CareCredit. These are credit cards available to use in the event of certain medical emergencies (including veterinary), and there are many options currently available.

Pro tip: Check ahead of any emergencies to see what payment options your emergency veterinarian offers.

2. Contact ASPCA Poison Control (888-426-4435) or the Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661).

Consult one of these hotlines for advice on what to do should your dog ingest a potential toxin or foreign object. For a flat fee, they will tell you what treatment can be administered and whether a trip to the emergency vet is needed. For instance, the silica packs found in many products are not toxic when eaten, but they can cause an obstruction in the small intestines of small dogs.

Pro tip: Post the poison-control numbers in a visible place in your house; save them in your mobile phone contact list, too.

3. Do not administer medications to your pet without consulting a veterinarian first.

There are many medications that, while safe at appropriate doses in humans, can be toxic to your pet. While acetaminophen (the active ingredient in Tylenol) serves as a fever reducer and pain reliever in humans, it can cause liver failure in dogs. Naproxen, a common pain reliever used in human medicine, can cause severe GI bleeding and kidney failure in dogs when used at almost any dose.

Similarly, giving aspirin to your dog can impede the veterinarian’s ability to treat your pet effectively. Aspirin can inhibit blood clotting for up to seven days after a single dose. If your pet needs surgery, this could be a major problem. Further, if your pet needs treatment with steroids or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory, it may have to be delayed for two to three days.

4. Don’t forget your pet’s medical records!

If you find yourself heading for the vet ER, don’t forget to bring along any medications that your pet takes. Also, don’t forget to tell the veterinarian if you’ve given your dog any medication or remedy. This includes aspirin, Benadryl, Pepto-Bismol, Pepcid AC, supplements, and any prescription medications. It is imperative that we know everything in the pet’s system, especially when treating a possible toxin ingestion.

Pro tip: Download a pet medical record app for your phone such as VitusVet or PawPrint.

5. Be prepared to wait!

If you have to wait in the emergency room with your dog, it’s a good sign! That means his condition is not life-threatening enough to warrant being rushed to the treatment area. Just as human ERs can have extended waits, so can pet ERs. Be patient with the doctors and staff. They are trying to give close attention and time to each patient. This ensures that pets receive the attention they need and the best treatment options.

Dealing with a pet emergency can be a stressful and scary experience. With a little forethought, you can help make a trip to the emergency veterinarian a significantly less stressful event.

Catherine Ashe, DVM, practiced ER medicine for nine years. She now works as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, North Carolina.

The post How to Prepare for An Emergency Animal Hospital Visit appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Here, in no particular order, are a dozen simple tips to help you avoid a visit to the pet emergency room.

1. Keep your dog’s toenails trimmed.

As an emergency vet, I saw at least one torn toenail per shift. Bleeding toenails are not life-threatening, but they are extremely painful for the dog and can become infected.

Keep your dog’s nails short so that the tips do not snag. In some extreme cases, small breed dogs with long thick hair that obscures their feet will have toenails that have grown into the footpads. This is a painful condition and can lead to infection. Check your pet’s nails frequently! When in doubt as to whether they are too long, consult with your vet or groomer. (And read “Common Toenail Injuries on Dogs,” from this issue.)

2. Do not give your dog donut-shaped marrow bones.

Marrow bones can easily slip over the lower jaw of a dog and become lodged behind the canine teeth. While they go on with ease, it usually requires a trip to the emergency veterinarian to have them removed (often under sedation). Don’t believe me? Try a Google image search for “marrow bone dog jaw” – and don’t be surprised by how many photos you will find.

3. Keep fish hooks stored away from curious noses.

The smell of fish on a hook can often be too enticing for a dog. Even worse, the sight of a live, wriggling fish on the end of a fishing pole can drive a dog to unpredictable behavior. It is easy for a dog to grab or paw at a hook, but not so easy to dislodge it. Many hooks are trebled – possessing three barbs that must be cut and then pushed backward through the wound. This generally requires heavy sedation to accomplish, especially when stuck in a sensitive area such as the nose, tongue, mouth, or foot pad.

4. When driving, secure your dog with a well-fitted harness and dog seatbelt, or in a carrier that is firmly fastened in the car.

Do not let dogs stand in truck beds unsecured. Do not let them hang out of an open window. It is very common for a sudden turn to cause a dog to lose its balance and fall from the window or truck bed. In the event of an accident, a tethered or crated dog has less chance of injury, as well as causing injury to others in the car. Read more about car safety for dogs here.

5. Make sure that your yard is secure and that your dog has an identification microchip.

Hit-by-car injuries can be severe and deadly, as can fights with other dogs and wildlife. Always supervise your dog when he’s loose in the yard; dogs can be very adept at climbing over or digging under fences and underground fences (which are not recommended by Whole Dog Journal) don’t work for every dog. They also do not prevent other animals – domestic or wild – from wandering into your yard. It’s fast and easy to microchip your dog, and the chip will identify him if he gets loose for a quicker return to your home.

6. Recognize the common diseases that occur in your dog’s breed, so you can take appropriate action, fast.

For example: Brachycephalic breeds such as Bulldogs and Boxers often have upper-airway problems. They oxygenate poorly due to a combination of very short noses, small nostrils, and excessive tissue in the oropharynx (area of throat in the back of the mouth). This can lead to heat stroke. Heat stroke can happen to any dog if left in the wrong circumstances, but brachycephalic dogs are particularly prone to this. They can also overheat from simple excitement.

Need more examples? Geriatric Labradors are known to frequently suffer laryngeal paralysis, and as they age, this can become severe, leading to swollen upper airways and difficulty breathing. They produce a characteristic stridorous breathing – a high-pitched, wheezing sound.

Great Danes and other large-breed dogs are prone to a condition called “bloat” or gastric-dilatation and volvulus, the symptoms of which are discomfort, abdominal distention, salivating, and non-productive retching. This is a fatal condition if not treated with rapid recognition at home and emergency surgery.

Becoming familiar with the symptoms of these conditions can help you stop a crisis before it occurs. When in doubt, ask your vet for any breed-specific symptoms and preventative steps you should be aware of, such as prophylactic gastropexy for your giant-breed dog.

7. Keep medications secure.

Common household pain relievers like naproxen and ibuprofen can cause GI ulcers and kidney failure if ingested by your dog. Further, popular over-the-counter supplements such as 5-HTP, used in the treatment of a variety of disorders, can have severe consequences for pets. Ingestion of 5-HTP can lead to seizures, heat stroke, coma, and death.

8. If you have a puppy (or any dog who chews on random items) be sure to pick up small toys, socks, and underwear.

Many dogs love to chew and tear objects. Sometimes, they accidentally swallow them. Toys and clothing can cause obstruction of the GI tract requiring surgery to remove.

9. Don’t feed your dog fatty meats, fat cut from steaks, or fat from a roast poured from a broiler pan.

Pork, beef, and other fatty treats can cause pancreatitis, as well as significant GI upset including vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and loss of appetite. Cooked bones and inadequately chewed raw bones can cause obstruction of the GI tract, and in some cases, perforation of the GI tract. The signs of this may not manifest immediately, lulling you into a false sense of security about feeding these table foods.

10. Keep tasty treats well out of reach.

No- make that, keep anything edible out of reach! It’s tempting to believe that your dog can’t get on the counter, but if you spend five minutes on YouTube, you will rapidly realize how nimble our canine friends can be!

Of particular concern are rising bread dough, chocolate, grapes, raisins, and candy or gum that contains xylitol, a sugar substitute. These are all potentially lethal to your dog.

In addition to keeping your counters cleared of food, take care to keep meat skewers or knives that were used to prepare food out of reach. Dogs have been known to lick skewers ad knives, and have even swallowed them. Yes, dogs will swallow knives! (The x-ray below is from a real dog who swallowed a serrated bread knife! And lived, thanks to surgery to remove it.)

11. Closely supervise and manage any interaction between dogs who are unfamiliar with each other.

When introducing a new dog into the house (particularly small puppies), always closely monitor. Do not leave puppies unsupervised with adult dogs, as this can lead to unintentional injury. Even the best dog has a limit, and sometimes, older dogs will nip or snap. This can lead to head and mouth trauma.

12. Be careful with lawn and car products.

It’s very common for dogs who are outdoors frequently to come into contact with chemicals such as antifreeze, snail bait, and rat poison. Choose a pet-safe antifreeze (the main ingredient is propylene glycol). Avoid using slug and snail baits, as your dog’s exposure to these can cause tremors, seizures, and death.

If you choose to use a rat poison in your yard or house, make sure it is contained within dog-proof traps, and always make sure to keep the box (or ask the pest-control company for information on the type used) so that in the event of accidental ingestion, you know exactly what your pet consumed.

Compost piles present another common threat to dogs, as they can grow mycotoxins, a type of mold that when eaten leads to severe tremoring, high body temperature, and seizures. All compost piles should be fenced off from dogs.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

Most dog owners can attest that many canine emergencies happen at the most inopportune times – but it’s a good idea to cultivate a good relationship with your local general practice veterinarian in case of a daytime emergency. Keep the national pet poison control number (888-426-4435) posted prominently in your house and saved in your cell-phone contacts, too.

If you follow these steps with your dog, you will significantly decrease the chances of needing to visit the veterinary ER. With careful attention to health and your dog’s environment, you can keep your canine companion healthy and well for years to come.

Catherine Ashe graduated the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine in 2008. After a small-animal intensive emergency internship, she has practiced ER medicine for nine years. She is now working as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, North Carolina, and loves the GP side of medicine. In her spare time, she spends time with her family, reads voraciously, and enjoys the mountain lifestyle.

The post 12 Tips to Avoiding Trips to the Emergency Vet appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Then one day, should our dog be injured or undergo surgery, we’re instructed by our vet to keep Fido quiet – maybe even immobile! – during a recovery period that can range anywhere from a few days to weeks or (gasp) months.

When our own doctor gives us strict orders to take it easy for two weeks while we recover from surgery or an injury, we understand that doing so is for our own good. We know that going against instructions can land us back in the doctor’s office with a secondary problem and can make our recovery time even longer. That’s often incentive enough to do what we’re told to stay out of trouble!

Our dogs, though, don’t follow the same rationale. When they start to feel better, they want to resume their daily activities immediately. They’re ready to jump and run and chase and play. It’s our responsibility to keep them quiet, and this can become an exercise in frustration for everyone involved.

How Do You Keep a Dog Calm?

So what can you do when your dog needs to chill against his will? These tips should help you get through your dog’s recovery time:

1. Your vet may prescribe a tranquilizer for your dog.

Seriously consider it. As someone who’s just recently gone through a week with a highly energetic post-surgical dog (we’re on Week Two as I type), I can vouch for the benefits of accepting that prescription with glee. I’m not talking about something that will knock your dog out cold, but something that can help take the edge off.

We were prescribed Trazodone, a tricyclic antidepressant that has the added effect of a mild sedative. Without it, Bennigan, my Border Terrier, would have felt ready to resume his twice-daily “zoomies” routine far too soon – up and down the stairs, on and off the couch, usually while barely touching the floor.

While medicated, Bennigan is able to walk around as normal. He’s not staggering or “out of it.” He’s just much more serene and will happily curl up and snooze for most of the day – which is exactly what the doctor ordered. When he’s awake, he is perfectly alert and enjoys playing brain games. His appetite for treats is alive and well, making training sessions more than possible.

As a bonus, his tranquil state makes it far easier for him to accept wearing his Kong Cloud “donut” (an alternative to the classic plastic Elizabethan collar or “cone of shame”). He’s also taken more easily to wearing his post-surgical onesie pajama, designed to prevent him from licking his wound or pulling at his stitches – activities he’s proven he can’t resist.

Bennigan is particularly sensitive to two things he finds very aversive: Confinement (like a crate) and having something on his body like a harness (which we’ve been working very hard to address, successfully!). The prescribed medication completely eliminated the need to physically confine him in a crate in order to control his movements (which would cause him undue stress), and it also erased any sensitivity to the onesie on his body. He wore it happily, which proved to be an immense help (in addition to being absurdly cute).

2. Use mentally tiring, low-key activities to wear him out.

We know that engaging your dog’s nose is an activity that doesn’t require much (if any) physical exertion. We also know that scent work can be immensely satisfying and tiring for your dog.

If your dog has permission from your vet to move around quietly, you can hide his food or some treats around an area in your home that’s safe for him to maneuver and encourage him to sniff out the goods. You can also hide some treats or kibble in a snuffle mat – an ideal solution for a dog who should move around as little as possible. With the snuffle mat, he can stay in one place while engaging his nose.

Weather permitting, you could sprinkle kibble in the grass in an enclosed area small enough to prevent your dog from running or jumping around. A temporary enclosure can be created with an exercise pen.

3. Low-activity training lessons.

There are still plenty of training activities you can engage in while keeping your dog relatively quiet. Naturally, all the high-energy sports are out of the question, but what about those that are low-key?

Jessica Hekman DVM, PhD, recently needed to adjust her dog’s training activities. Dash, an 18-month-old English Shepherd, is an active dog whose recurring issues with one of his shoulders has led Jessica to explore the possibility of orthopedic surgery. While they wait several weeks for their meeting with the orthopedic surgeon to discuss the next steps, Dash needs to stay quiet and can’t participate in his usual activities like agility practice.

But how do you minimize the physical activity of an athletic dog like Dash without driving him stir-crazy?

“Dash now does Rally with my husband at the same venue where we used to train in agility. We are also doing an online nose-work class through Fenzi Dog Sports Academy,” says Jessica.

Even though Dash can’t participate in high-impact sports, he and Jessica have managed to stay plenty busy by learning lots of tricks. They’ve even earned Dash his AKC Novice Trick Title while on “rest”!

“We practice our toy play, food play, and personal play. Coincidentally, we have some guest cats staying with us for a few months. Dash is overly excited by them, so they live in their own room. A couple of times a day, I let him interact with them and reward for calm behavior. This is great enrichment for him and hopefully will lead to more freedom for the cats. We’re making great progress!

“I’ve also taken him to pet supply stores or Home Depot/Lowe’s on leash and let him meet interested people. He gets a stuffed frozen Kong daily, but this was always the case. It’s just more important now.”

Check out how to teach your dog the names of objects here – it’s the perfect training game for when your dog has a lot of down time.

4. Play advanced brain games.

Some of the low-energy training exercises mentioned above are terrific ideas for the dog who’s at least able to move around, but what about the dog who should be as immobile as possible?

That’s when you and your dog both really need to use your brains. Object discrimination games – while lots of fun – can be very intellectually demanding for the dog. It’s a great way to challenge and tire out a stir-crazy dog who needs to be on complete rest.

With discrimination games, the idea is to teach your dog to differentiate between various objects. You can teach him the “name” of a few objects and ask him to target them with his paw or his snout, or to pick them up on cue. It’s a great way to teach your dog what his toys are called! This game can be played without your dog needing to move at all, so it’s perfect for the canine patient who’s supposed to be on strict rest.

Get more brain games to play with your dog here.

5. Practice impulse control exercises.

Take advantage of your dog’s needing to stay calm by practicing behaviors that require him to be immobile, like Stay, Wait, and Off (aka Leave It). It’s a perfect time to practice handy behaviors, all while continuing to rest!

6. Give your dog relaxing massages.

Learn canine massage techniques. I don’t know about you, but a good massage will put me in a zen state of mind that will last for several hours. Your dog can experience the same relaxing sensation with proper massage techniques.

Keep in mind the location of his injury – depending on the nature of it – you may want to either avoid it or target it! Choose a quiet spot in your home, play some relaxing music, and spend some one-on-one time massaging your dog. You’ll find it’s relaxing for both of you!

7. Keep the dog’s mouth busy.

If your dog can’t move his body, let him work on something with his mouth. A frozen Kong is an easy choice, since you can stuff it with low-calorie ingredients. You’ll want to watch your dog’s food intake while he’s less active. Putting on extra pounds can make recovery harder.

Prepare Your Dog Ahead of Time

Recovering from an injury or surgery isn’t an easy process, and it’s made more difficult by the fact that we can’t simply explain to our dogs why they need to lay low for a while. But with a little creativity and some planning, you’ll both get through it!

Even if your dog is currently in excellent health, take the time now to practice a few things that will come in handy later. Play games to help him make a positive association with a crate, an Elizabethan collar (the plastic cone or equivalent), a body wrap (like a onesie), or a sock on a limb.

Nancy Tucker, CPDT-KA, is a full-time trainer, behavior consultant, and seminar presenter in Quebec, Canada.

The post Get Your Dog to Rest After Surgery appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

It is normal for dogs to lick a wound, incision, bug bite, or irritated skin as part of normal grooming; it’s when that licking becomes excessive that a barrier device becomes necessary in order to prevent further injury.

Most dogs adjust to wearing a recovery collar fairly easily, but it can be an additional trauma for other dogs. Some will not eat or drink while wearing one and thus the collar must be temporarily removed at these times. Particularly shy or fearful dogs often have more difficulty navigating and become more concerned with the world when they have to wear a recovery collar. Some dogs become hypersensitive when their peripheral vision is hindered. And all dogs who are in discomfort and stressed will be more likely to act out aggressively in situations that would not normally bother them – and the stress can hinder healing, too!

Fortunately, there are many dog cone alternatives to protect your dog’s stitches, hot spot, wound, or what-have-you. Some dog cone alternatives are designed to prevent the distress that some dogs experience when wearing a recovery collar; others are designed to work better with dogs of certain proportions (i.e., dogs with “no” necks, dogs with very long bodies or long legs, very small dogs, etc.).

Traits of Good Dog Cone Alternatives

If your dog is bothered by the impairment of his vision, look for products that allow him to look around, or are made of translucent material.

The sound of Velcro® or generic hook-and-loop closures can be scary to some dogs, so if your dog is one of these (or is phobic about odd noises), consider products that fasten with some other mechanism. These fasteners might also be problematic for dogs with long coats. A final consideration about hook-and-loop: the lifespan of the collar may also be reduced as the material degrades.

Properly fitting collars should be short enough to allow eating and drinking, yet prevent the wearer from reaching the area(s) of concern with his tongue or teeth. It should fit securely – you should be able to fit two fingers comfortably between the collar and neck – and yet not restrict breathing or swallowing. Unless provided and fitted by your veterinarian, you’ll need to know the circumference of your dog’s neck. An easy way to measure this is to remove your dog’s collar and measure the collar length. You may also need to know the length of your dog’s muzzle. Follow the manufacturer’s guide for measurements.

How to Use the Recovery Collar

It’s a great idea to shop for a recovery collar before your dog’s surgery, when he’s still feeling well. (If your dog is, fortunately, not scheduled for surgery, consider buying one in advance of any injury that might befall your dog!)

If possible, have your dog “try on” several different products, wearing them around the store for as much time as you can afford, to see how he deals with each product’s challenges. (And if your dog may have to wear one of these products for an extended period of time, consider buying a couple or several, so you can find the one that works best for him.)

Once you’ve settled on a product, and it’s time for the rubber to meet the road – or rather, for the dog to meet the collar – allow him to become familiar with the product before putting it on him; let him see and smell it first. Arm yourself with extra-delicious treats, and take your time when putting it on, rewarding him richly for his cooperation. Continue to offer him praise and reinforcement (treats) as he learns how to navigate wearing the new accessory. Carefully monitor your dog on his first days wearing a recovery collar, to see whether he can reach his wound around the collar – or reach the collar itself and destroy it!

Assist and guide your dog through doorways and up and down stairwells, as stairs can be a tripping hazard if they come into contact with the collar. Owners might consider clearing pathways and areas of items that can be knocked over by an inadvertent swipe of the recovery collar. Remember to give your dog breaks from wearing the collar when you’re home and can monitor him closely, so he doesn’t take the first opportunity to lick his wound.

Collars can get gross. Do take them off and wash them occasionally. Check daily around your dog’s head and neck for any area of irritation. Be aware that this accessory can get caught on objects, and paws can get caught in the collars themselves. When used for long periods, be mindful of your dog’s ears; some of these collars can trap moisture and heat, resulting in yeast growth or other ear issues.

The Best Kinds of Dog Cone Alternatives

There is no single style of recovery collar that fits all dogs and protects all wounds. Every dog is different in shape, flexibility, and emotional response to a recovery collar. The products reviewed here are sturdy, made of tough, flexible materials, reusable, and easily cleaned; all of them will store flat and some you can trim to size. Some will work better than others for certain dogs.

We’ve provided manufacturer information for the collars we reviewed, but bought them through Amazon. While we love the fast delivery (and often, the prices) from online sources, if the product doesn’t fit well, or fails to prevent your dog from reaching his wound, it might be more of a hassle to return it to an online seller than to take it back to a local pet supply store or veterinary hospital. (And, of course, you can bring your dog to a store and try them on there.)

Here is a comparison chart that highlights the various traits of recovery collars and cones. Scroll further to get written reviews of each collar tested.

RECOVERY COLLARS AND BEST ALTERNATIVES
4 paws = great		3 paws = good		2 paws = adequate		1 paw = inadequate
PRODUCT	PRICE	SIZES	FASTENER	VISION	HEARING	COMFORT	EASE OF MOVEMENT
STANDARD CONES (for comarison, not reviewed): stiff, opaque, plastic cone from your veterinarian	varies widely	many	usually tied to your dog’s collar with gauze

Recovery Collar Reviews

Note: The products we reviewed are described in alphabetical order.

BiteNot

The BiteNot is designed like a cervical collar used by humans, and limits how far the dog can bend his neck, thus limiting the movement and reach of the dog’s head. It’s constructed with flexible plastic and foam, and wraps around your dog’s neck. It’s secured by a hook-and-loop (Velcro-like) closure and a harness strap that threads underneath the dog’s front legs and buckles at the back of the neck. The manufacturer states that it protects the back, rump, base of tail, flanks, chest, abdomen, and genitals. It is not designed to protect the ears or face, and the dog can reach the lower portion of his legs.

The BiteNot doesn’t interfere with the dog’s peripheral vision or ability to eat and drink. The length of collar must fit from behind the dog’s ears to the top of his shoulder, so sizing is key. This is the only collar of those reviewed here that caused a noticeable change in my dog when I tried it on him; he immediately became subdued. Which, if you need your dog to recover from something, might not be a bad thing – or a very bad thing, for a dog who got freaked out by the restriction of his neck movement.

PROS: Easy to put on. Does not inhibit vision. Interior nicely padded. Difficult for dog to remove. Machine washable.

CONS: Must be sized properly or it can hurt shoulders or ears. Heat and moisture can build up beneath collar. Has some potential for rubbing. Edges are hard; could be padded more.

Comfy Cone

The Comfy Cone is a soft cone-shaped collar constructed of water-resistant nylon fabric, laminated to ½-inch foam, producing a cone that is soft and yielding, yet sturdy and protective.

It comes with removable stays that provide extra stability and stiffness for dogs/situations that call for this. The vertical Velcro-type strips allow for varying adjustments in size and fit; however when collar is fitted for maximum circumference the extra hook-and-loop strips are exposed and only one extra strip cover is provided. When the stays are removed, the edge of collar can be folded back to facilitate eating and drinking; but if you can fold the collar back, so can your dog.

The collar direction can be reversed for shoulder, chest, or upper back issues, as well as to cover IV lines and feeding tubes. When worn this way (see photo on cover), supervision is needed to ensure that your dog’s paws don’t get caught in the inverted cone.

PROS: Both a soft collar and hard collar. Water-resistant but machine washable. Has reflective binding for night safety. Conforms to different shapes. Heavy-duty hook-and-loop fastener secures collar well. Seems generally comfortable.

CONS: Solid fabric blocks peripheral vision. Interior is black; becomes hot and humid. Because edges can bend, some dogs may chew on it. Heavy duty Velcro-type fastener is noisy.

ElizaSoft Recovery Collar &
Trimline Recovery Collar

These soft-sided collars provide protection and freedom of movement for the head, neck, and body. Some veterinarians like this design because dogs tend to like it so owners like it, resulting in good compliance. Durably constructed, it withstands chewing and clawing, and is water repellent and machine washable. Sizing is flexible as the drawstring tie adjusts to different neck sizes. These work especially well for dogs in close confinement and for long recoveries.

PROS: Lightweight. Easy to put on. Built-in tie fastener is highly adjustable. Springs back to its original shape. Allows dog to sleep and lounge in comfort. Can be worn reversed to protect shoulder/back areas.

CONS: Because it is very flexible, dog can easily cause it to crumple and fold. Limits vision, as it is solid fabric.

FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone

The FOREYY Recovery Pet Cone is a “softer” version of the standard plastic collar. It’s a slightly truncated cone with a wide band of breathable mesh fabric at its base. The “cone” is made of clear plastic, affording good visibility for the dog; this material is firm without being rigid, and the plastic edges are covered with fabric. This collar should provide good protection of most body parts if fitted correctly. The snap and buckle closures are secure and easily accessible.

One caution: This product has a built-in stainless steel D-ring, intended as an attachment for a leash. Leading a dog by the “cone” could seriously injure him; disregard this ring!

PROS: Snap closures (no Velcro). Allows dog to relax and sleep comfortably in any position. Easy to clean.

CONS: Limited size range; available only for small to medium dogs. Some dogs may reach tail and front paws. Might aggravate noise phobia.

KONG Cloud Collar

The KONG Cloud Collar (a.k.a. the airplane neck pillow that I am taking with me the next time I fly) is a well-designed and comfortable recovery collar. It allows dogs to eat, drink, and sleep and does not interfere with peripheral vision.

It is easy to put on – simply thread your dog’s regular collar through the interior of the pillow and inflate via the pinch and blow air valve, inflating to full but not hard. Its security is dependent on the fit of your dog’s regular collar; if the collar can slip or be pulled over his head, he will be able to get the Cloud Collar off, too. My dog Tico had this collar off in seconds off by putting his paws behind the donut and pulling his head right out.

The Cloud Collar is not good for any issue around the face or ears and may not prevent access to some areas on the body, such as the tail. It is a good option for brachycephalic dogs because it’s difficult for them to get off. Some users report that the hook-and-loop closure can rub.

PROS: Machine washable, scratch-, tear-, and rip-resistant fabric. Does not mark or scratch furniture. Great for playing and easy for dog to adjust to. Seems to be more comfortable than other styles. Dog can eat, drink, and sleep easily.

CONS: Has potential for deflating (popping/leaking air) and for irritation due to heat. Prevents dog from being able to lie flat.

NACOCO

Perhaps the goofiest-looking recovery collar we tried, the NACOCO is made of soft, hollow, expanded polyethylene foam, covered in a water-resistant nylon fabric. Very soft and lightweight, it’s potentially useful for shoulder and chest issues. It doesn’t impede the ability to eat, drink, see, or hear. Because it is so large, I thought dogs wouldn’t like wearing it; surprisingly, none of the dogs I tested it on had any difficulty adjusting to it.

PROS: Does not hurt when it collides with humans. Lightweight. Flexible enough to bend when going through a narrow doorways and to allow dogs to lay down comfortably.

CONS: Can be an impediment to movement of the front legs; does not work well for short-legged dogs as it hits the ground. Flexibility also poses potential for chewing or for dog to reach his wound around collar. The fixed snap closure does not allow for any adjusting of size.

Novaguard

The Novaguard is much narrower than standard plastic cones, giving the dog greater freedom of movement. It resembles a transparent knight’s helmet – but one that’s ergonomically designed to fit a dog’s head.

The plastic is hard and the edges are not padded, but the manufacturer addresses this with the explanation that this keeps the product affordable; it suggests that customers can create custom cushioning or trim the edges if necessary with medical tape.

The pre-scored grooves at the outer rim allow for individual sizing for muzzle length. This is a good option for dogs with long, lean necks or long muzzles. The company also makes The Optivizor, for eye and face protection.

This is one of those products that will either fit your dog perfectly or not at all, depending on his shape. Even though we had this fitted snugly on one of the models (and it has the potential to be set too tight) the construction is such that it slipped forward and then off the model’s head without undoing the hook-and-loop neck strap.

PROS: Slim design, fits closer to head and thus protects eyes and muzzle. The dog’s ears are outside of collar, eliminating sound amplification and buildup of moisture or heat around ears. Should protect most areas of trauma except ears.

CONS: Not many adjustment points. Hard plastic could be uncomfortable; potential for rubbing. Assembly required.

ZenCone Soft Recovery Collar

A hybrid design, ZenCone is made of alternating bands of soft canvas and plastic windows, which offer peripherl vision. It attaches to the dog’s regular collar with elastic loops, and the cone shape and size easily adjusts with strips of hook-and-loop material.

PROS: Flexible and comfortable for sleeping. Human- and house-friendly. Easy to put on and take off. Fabric reduces the distortion and amplification of noise caused by some cone designs.

CONS: When sized for smaller dogs, exposed strips of unused hook-and-loop fasteners can collect lint and stick to carpet and fabrics. May not be deep enough and too flexible to prevent long-nosed or determined dogs from reaching wounds.

Custom Collars

Sometimes, none of the purpose-made recovery collars will work. My friend Joanne made her own recovery collar for her dog out of foam and heavy-duty fabric; I think she should start production and sales! At times, temporary measures are needed. With a little creativity, you can quickly create a makeshift collar with a few household items. People have been known to use cardboard, actual lampshades, wastebaskets, and plastic flowerpots. Whatever works!

Erin Einbender, a volunteer at Chicago-area rescue group One Tail at a Time and an artist studying at the School of Art Institute in Chicago, combined her passion for dogs and photography and created the Cones of Fame project. Think “art meets dogs meets recovery collars.”

Erin not only creates art using recovery collars as a canvas, but also helps find homes for the canine models. While we can’t recommend using these types of collars for
actual recovery, we do support the endeavor. Check out Cones of Fame (and adoptable dogs!) online.

Barbara Dobbins, a former dog trainer, writes about dogs and studies canine ethology. She lives in the San Francisco Bay area with her mixed-breed adolescent dog, Tico.

The post 2017 Best Dog Cone Alternatives appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Dogs are such over-compensators, in fact, that they often will display Olympic aspirations, trying to chase squirrels, barrel through doors, and leap out of cars without so much as a care that they’ve just had a complex orthopedic procedure with more stitches than Betsy Ross’s flag.

It’s up to you, then, to be the spoilsport, and to keep your dog calm, quiet, and otherwise compliant during the recovery period, which can last weeks and even months, depending on the procedure.

With all that in mind, here are some tips for managing your dog’s post-surgery recovery—along with warnings about what to look for when things just aren’t going right.

Before You Leave the Vet Post-Surgery

Of course you will be eager to take your dog home, especially if his hospitalization was longer than a day or two. But make sure you understand every post-surgical care instruction given to you by the veterinarian or her staff before you head home. Take a good look at the surgical incision if it’s uncovered, so you know what it looks like before you are left alone with it (so to speak). Get clear on how long any dressings, pain patches, or bandages are supposed to be left in place.

Importantly, look carefully at the medicines that are being sent home with you—actually read the labels and open the bottles or tubes or boxes, so you are certain you understand exactly how much of which medication he is supposed to receive, how many times a day, and exactly how you are supposed to administer each one. If a medicine is given in a form you’ve never had to administer to your dog before (ear drops, eye ointments, pills, oral liquids), ask if someone could show you how to give your dog the first dose. Make sure you know whether the medication is supposed to be kept refrigerated or not.

Finally, it’s time to leave—but don’t head out to the car and just open the door and allow your dog to leap in like always! Anticipate the possibility that he will be so eager to leave the clinic and return to his familiar places that he may forget he’s wearing a cone, cast, brace, or bandages. Keep your leash taut and block his usual access to the car so that you (and perhaps a clinic staff member or family member, if he’s a big dog) can lift him gently into the car. If he’s too big to maneuver, use a ramp to help him climb slowly into the car, and be sure to have someone on each side of the ramp to steady him.

Ideally, someone could ride in the car with your dog in the back seat, or he could be safely crated in an especially well-padded crate for the slow, careful drive home.

Again, when he gets home, he may get very excited and eager to leap out of the car and back into his old life. Anticipate his enthusiasm and control his movements carefully.

The Post-Canine Surgery Overview

A dog views life pretty much at knee level. (Or, in some cases, ankle level.) Such a ground-hugging perspective leaves him that much more likely to get dirty. “Think about if you had knee surgery, and then you laid down on the ground and dragged that incision around,” says Dr. Tomas Infernuso of Veterinary Traveling Surgical Services in Locust Valley, New York. “Tell me: Is it going to get infected?”

Your dog might make a habit of plopping himself down on a favorite spot on the lawn, or lounging on the cool floor tiles in the mudroom. But in the days and weeks after surgery, he’ll need to be lying on clean sheets and bedding. If the dog bed is covered with a thatch of hair and God-knows-what-else, either give it a good go-round in the washing machine, or cover it with a clean sheet or comforter. Be sure to change the bedding frequently.

(All this talk about staying off dirty floors doesn’t mean your dog should seek higher ground: Climbing on couches and beds can strain incisions. Keep your dog off the human furniture.)

Unless it contradicts your veterinarian’s orders, make lots of water available so your dog can rehydrate after surgery. More water intake means more peeing, so plan on lots of walks—always on leash, please, even if it is just to the backyard—as well as the occasional accident if you get can’t out in time.

Controlling Your Dog’s Activity After Surgery

Keeping your dog off floors and less-than-sanitary surfaces is just the beginning. “Dogs are athletes,” says Dr. Infernuso. “Once the inflammation settles down and they feel better, they push themselves. Dogs just don’t get it. So it’s up to you to control their activity.”

While many owners feel sorry for their dogs, confinement is an absolute requirement after surgery. When not intensely supervised, your dog should be in his crate, and all walks need to be on leash—even strolls around the house.

Dr. Infernuso says he’s even had to amputate a dog’s leg as a result of an owner being too blasé about confinement: The dog jumped through a screen door 10 days after returning home, fracturing the surgery site, which later became impossibly infected. “That was 100 percent the owner’s fault,” he says. ” Now I tell people, if you can’t control your dog, I’m not doing surgery, because it’s going to be detrimental to the dog.”

Ripping stitches is another complication that can result from letting your dog do too much, too soon. Dr. Infernuso recalls another case, this time a 100-pound Rottweiler who tore his incision so badly his bladder and intestines were peering through the sewn skin. Initially proclaiming his innocence, the owner eventually admitted to letting the dog jump out of his pickup truck on the trip home.

With dogs who are prone to hyperactive or over-exuberant behavior, Dr. Infernuso will sometimes prescribe Acepromazine, a commonly used sedative. In very severe cases, he will keep the dog on the drug for as long as a month or two, until the healing process is well underway. While keeping a dog sedated that long is not ideal, it beats the alternative if an owner is unable or unwilling to confine a dog properly.

Speaking of confinement, make sure your dog has a quiet, warm spot that affords her lots of rest and few distractions for the first few days of her recovery. Make sure she can’t be bothered by other animals in the household, as well as any small children who can unintentionally push your dog past her limits, especially in the haze of post-surgical pain.

The Dreaded Dog Cone

A dog’s propensity for licking her wounds is another way that bacteria get a foothold; even a surgical site on the head or neck area isn’t safe, because of the potential for constant scratching. As a result, most convalescing dogs are required to wear an Elizabethan collar (also known as a “cone”) or some alternative product. While it does prevent a dog from worrying her wound, this lampshade-like barrier, which attaches to the collar, can obstruct her vision and makes navigating in small places very difficult. For whatever reason, many veterinarians sell Elizabethan collars that are made of very stiff, hard, and opaque plastic. Be advised that many pet supply stores sell similar products that are made of lighter, translucent plastic, which helps the dog see and carry the cone around.

Some owners eventually remove the cone before they should because they feel badly for the dog, who sometimes looks profoundly uncomfortable – or, at the very least, very annoyed. Instead, consider one of the soft fabric cones, which do much the same job without so much rigidity. Dr. Infernuso dissuades people from using inflatable cones, as he finds that while wearing them, “dogs can still reach incisions and open them up.”

Nursing Your Dog’s Wounds

Knowing how a wound heals—and what it looks like during the process—is tremendously important: Carefully monitoring the incision in the days and weeks after surgery can help you flag early signs of trouble.

Dr. Infernuso instructs his owners to clean the wound area twice a day with an antiseptic solution such as Betadyne or antibiotic ointment, wearing latex gloves to be sure they do not contaminate the incision.

“I don’t know how effective it is in decreasing the bacterial load, but I want people to pay attention to the wound,” he says. Requiring a twice-daily check of the wound not only makes owners feel useful, but it builds in time every day for them to notice any problematic changes.

Immediately after surgery, expect that the incision site will not look happy. “Bruising, swelling, and edema are completely normal,” Dr. Infernuso says, adding that the area might be bluish or reddish in color. In this initial inflammatory stage, which lasts about three to five days, you can expect to see a puffy and bruised area, as the body reacts to the trauma of surgery. The skin may appear to be puckered around the incision; this is normal.

If there is any drainage, it should be clear, but owners should not expect large amounts of it. “You should be concerned if the wound starts looking really hot, really painful to the touch,” Dr. Infernuso says. “Pre-infection, you’ll see serous fluids, followed by organized liquid, usually pus.” Any type of foul-smelling discharge is also not normal. At the first sight of these warning signs, contact your veterinarian, who will likely want a recheck.

After the inflammatory stage, your dog’s body will go into the healing phase. “This is the beginning of collagen formation, and of repair,” Dr. Infernuso explains. If you still see inflammation, redness, and soreness at this juncture, it’s another reason to call your vet.

Manage Your Dog’s Pain

Pain management is certainly important from a compassionate point of view: After all, no one wants to see a dog suffer. But keeping your dog’s pain under control can also have an impact on his recovery.

In the aftermath of surgery, the body can experience a “sympathetic surge,” in which the sympathetic nervous system—which is responsible for “fight or flight” mode—goes into overdrive. This stress response triggers metabolic and hormonal changes that can depress the immune system and impede the healing process. Controlling pain can curb this natural response, leaving the body free to devote its energy to the repair of damaged tissue.

Creating a chart of what medications to give when can be helpful in managing your dog’s prescriptions, which may include antibiotics as well as painkillers. Don’t add any supplements to your dog’s food during the convalescing period without consulting with your vet. If you’ve got one of those dogs who spits like a camel at any attempt to “pill” him, try hiding the capsule in a morsel of delicious food, like a chunk of steak, or Pill Pockets, which are soft treats with an indented center for hiding the pill.

Entertain Your Dog After Surgery

One of the ironic downsides of lessening your dog’s post-operative pain is that it will be more difficult to keep him quiet while he’s recuperating. In the pre-digital age, human convalescents received gifts of word-search books and paperback novels to help them while away the hours; today, bed-ridden hospital patients can be found tapping away at their smart phones and iPads. Dogs get bored, too, but they don’t have Candy Crush Saga as an option. Instead, you need to provide the mental stimulation they need to keep from going stir-crazy.

That old standby—a Kong toy stuffed with treats stirred into peanut butter or yogurt, then frozen—can provide a couple of hours of distraction. Hidden food puzzles, such as the Zoo Active toys developed by Nina Ottosson, and other interactive toys are perfect for keeping your dog’s brain engaged during this time. (See “Puzzle Fun,” WDJ June 2008, for a review of interactive toys.)

Teaching your dog simple tricks that don’t require a lot of physical exertion are a great way to keep his mind occupied and his body quiet: Rolling a ball, barking on command, picking up objects, targeting your hand—you can use shaping and clicker training to easily put these on cue. Scent-discrimination games are another low-impact activity that burn a tremendous amount of mental energy: Choosing between two objects, one of which has your scent, is a game that can be played even if your dog needs to be restricted to her crate.

The variety of games you can play is seemingly endless: A little Googling or a search on Youtube will give you lots of creative ideas.

Rehab Therapy for Dogs

As in human medicine, a variety of therapies are available to help speed your dog’s healing process, including cold-laser therapy, acupressure, and acupuncture.

Getting patients up and moving—always in a controlled setting, of course – can also be very beneficial. “Orthopedic surgeons will not do surgery on humans without physical therapy afterward,” Dr. Infernuso says. “Today, with all these rehab centers for dogs, I advocate for therapy right away.” Water therapy can be a great low-impact option, once concern about keeping your dog’s incision dry is no longer an issue.

For many conditions, physical therapy can enhance recovery, allowing the dog’s muscles to regain their strength in an organized fashion.

And that, in the end, is the whole key to your dog’s success after surgery: Slow, steady progress, in an environment that stresses rest and controlled activity, is the recipe for returning him to his bouncy, bright-eyed self.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 11-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband.

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