Periodontal disease is the inflammation and infection of the periodontium. The periodontium are the structures that support and surround the teeth. This includes the gingiva, cementum, periodontal ligament, and alveolar bone. Let’s examine the role of each structure in protecting and maintaining your dog’s oral health.

Each tooth has two parts—the crown and one or more roots. The crown is the part of the tooth you can see. Its role is to tear, chop, and grind food. The crown extends to just below the gumline. The roots anchor the tooth in the jaw and provide a blood and nerve supply to each tooth.

Each tooth root sits in a socket in the jaw. The socket is made of alveolar bone lined with a protective layer called cementum. The socket surrounds and supports each root. The root is attached to the cementum and alveolar bone by a periodontal ligament. Gingiva (also known as the gums) is the pink or pigmented fleshy tissue that covers the alveolar bone and the first part of the crown.

Infection and inflammation of these supporting structures leads to destruction of cementum and alveolar bone, loosening and destruction of the periodontal ligament, and gingival recession. Without the support of these structures, teeth become diseased, loose, and fall out.

What Causes Periodontal Disease in Dogs?

Periodontal disease begins with the accumulation of plaque on the crown of each tooth—both the part you can see and the part just below the gumline. Plaque is a combination of food particles, proteins and minerals in saliva, and bacteria that normally exist in the mouth. Think about that fuzzy feeling you get on the surface of your teeth if you haven’t brushed them in over a day—that’s plaque.

Plaque is initially soft and can be easily broken down and removed if the teeth are brushed. But left undisturbed, plaque continues to accumulate layer by layer on the teeth. Over time, minerals in saliva harden plaque and create calculus. Calculus is the hard, brown layer that you might see on your dog’s teeth.

Although calculus on the crown of the tooth looks awful, it’s the plaque and calculus under the gumline that starts the process of periodontal disease. Think about the last time you ate popcorn. Inevitably, the thin skin that covers a popcorn kernel gets stuck in your teeth, prompting you to perform an impromptu flossing. That kernel skin is actually getting stuck in the thin space between the crown of your tooth and the gingiva.

Plaque and calculus that accumulates in that thin space induces an inflammatory response in your dog’s mouth. Inflammation causes the gingiva to become red, irritated, and painful. This is gingivitis and is the first stage of periodontal disease.

Irritated and inflamed gingiva begins to break down and separate from the tooth and alveolar bone. This creates a space known as a periodontal pocket. Plaque and calculus move into this pocket, creating more inflammation. Destruction of alveolar bone and cementum begins, exposing each root under the gumline. The gums may bleed easily when touched. This is the second stage of periodontal disease.

As the periodontal pocket expands and fills with more plaque and calculus, more alveolar bone and cementum are destroyed. The strength of the periodontal ligament holding the tooth root in the socket is compromised and the tooth becomes loose. This is the third stage of periodontal disease.

The fourth and final stage of periodontal disease is characterized by greater than 50% alveolar bone loss around the roots. The tooth can now be easily moved in all directions within the socket.

All dogs are at risk for developing periodontal disease. Small and toy breed dogs are particularly predisposed to periodontal disease. Periodontal disease is more prevalent in dogs that have diabetes mellitus or hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). Dogs with a malocclusion (misaligned teeth) or crowded teeth in a small mouth are particularly at risk for developing periodontal disease.

Treating Periodontal Disease

Early periodontal disease (stages 1 and 2) in dogs may be treated with a professional dental cleaning under general anesthesia. Removing the plaque and calculus that has accumulated under the gumline is essential to treating periodontal disease—the only way to safely accomplish this is when your dog is anesthetized. See the article “Dog Teeth Cleaning” for more information.

Treating moderate to advanced periodontal disease (stages 3 and 4) requires more advanced techniques to save the teeth. These advanced techniques include open root scaling and planing, gingival curettage, and installation of bone grafts and protective membranes. A board-certified veterinary dentist is the most qualified professional to complete these techniques.

Teeth affected by periodontal disease that cannot be saved will need to be extracted. Tooth extractions can be done by most general practitioners. Teeth that have become brittle, abscessed, or ankylosed in the socket by scar tissue may need to be extracted by a veterinary dentist.

Preventing Periodontal Disease in Dogs

The best way to prevent periodontal disease in dogs is with proper at-home dental care and annual comprehensive oral health assessment and treatment (also known as a dental cleaning or dental prophylaxis) performed by your dog’s veterinarian.

Brushing your dog’s teeth every day disrupts plaque as it forms on the teeth and prevents the formation of calculus. See the article “At-home Dental Care for Dogs” for more information on how to brush your dog’s teeth and promote good oral health at home.

Your dog should undergo a comprehensive oral health assessment and treatment once a year. This is a dental cleaning, visual examination of the teeth, probing of gingival pockets, and radiographic assessment of the tooth roots and alveolar bone. Gingivitis can be treated and reversed during this procedure before it progresses to more advanced stages of periodontal disease.

With proper at-home oral care and annual oral exams by your veterinarian, your dog’s oral health and life span can be improved. And that’s good news for us dog lovers that want to have as much time as possible with our canine best friends!

The post Periodontal Disease in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Slightly Squishy Swollen Face

An abscess is a pocket of pus, bacteria, white blood cells, and dead tissue that can develop when a wound or other enclosed space becomes infected.

In the case of a tooth root abscess, bacteria find pockets in the gums a perfect place to live—warm, wet, and little-to-no oxygen. The bacteria quickly reproduce, and then the immune system sends in white blood cells to fight the bacteria. All this can damage the surrounding tissues, resulting in a slurry of nastiness that forms the abscess.

Abscesses are painful because of the pressure they exert on the surrounding tissues. Since there isn’t much space in a dog’s jaw, the infection expands where it can around the infected root, usually resulting in a firm lump on the side of the dog’s face.

Any tooth can develop a root abscess, but the canine teeth (the big pointy ones in the front) and carnassial teeth (the big chompers in the back) are the most common culprits. These teeth have long roots that go deep into the jaw. Note: The crown of the tooth is the part that we can see, and then the root extends into the gums and attaches in the jawbones. The deep roots anchor the teeth in place and protect the nerves and blood vessels that keep the living parts of teeth healthy.

Tooth root abscesses usually only occur on one side of the face and will be a firm or slightly squishy swelling. The swelling may feel warm to the touch, and your dog will likely be uncomfortable and not want to have his face handled.

Symptoms of a Dog Tooth Root Abscess

• Firm swelling on the side of the face, usually midway between the nose and eye or under the eye
• Not wanting to chew on that side of the mouth
• Poor appetite
• Rubbing at the face
• Fever
• Acting subdued and uncomfortable

Treatment

Small tooth abscesses may resolve with antibiotics alone. If you suspect your dog has a tooth root abscess, take him to a veterinarian to make sure that is truly what is going on. An abscess can often be diagnosed via exam alone, but your vet may also recommend a skull X-ray to look at the jaw and see where exactly the problem is.

Antibiotics may be able to kill off all the bacteria and clear the infection, but a deep-seated infection can be difficult to clear. If the tooth abscess does not respond to antibiotics or if the swelling returns, your veterinarian will recommend scheduling a dental cleaning and extraction to remove the infected tooth.

Removing the infected tooth does several things. First, it removes the damaged tooth, which is probably painful if the nerves have been breached by the infection. Second, it opens up the area so that the abscess pocket can be flushed clean, physically removing bacteria and debris so the pocket can heal.

You will notice that your dog feels better within days after the dental extraction.

There is no effective dog tooth abscess home treatment. Unless the abscess bursts, you cannot access it to clean out the bacteria and dead tissue causing the trouble, and the bacteria will continue to thrive. take him to a veterinarian to make sure that is truly what is going on

What to Do if Dog Tooth Abscess Bursts

If a tooth root abscess goes untreated, it will continue to grow. For shallower teeth, like the incisors or premolars, the abscess may eventually drain into your dog’s mouth. But for those canine and carnassial teeth, it is a long way from the tip of the root to the surface of the gum. This is why abscesses around these teeth show up as bumps on the side of the dog’s face. Given enough time, some of these abscesses will burst through the skin and cause an oozy, bleeding mess.

A ruptured abscess is gross, but it does relieve the pressure on your dog’s face and jaw and open up the area. Your vet will flush and clean the wound, then prescribe antibiotics to kill any remaining bacteria and speed up healing.

Your dog may still need to have the affected tooth removed, as a root damaged by an infection can continue to be vulnerable to future abscesses.

The post No Home Treatment for a Dog Tooth Abscess appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Parasites. Take a fresh fecal sample to your veterinarian. While internal parasites are more likely to cause weight loss in puppies, even adult dogs can be dragged down by a heavy parasite load. If your dog is losing weight, it makes the most sense to get that fecal sample, so you know what you’re dealing with and can deworm for that parasite. Whipworms can be the worst and might require multiple samples to be identified. Your veterinarian may decide to deworm your dog just in case, which is not a bad plan.

Dental disease. If your dog’s teeth, gums, or mouth hurt, he may not be eating normally. That, obviously, will contribute to weight loss. A dog who approaches his food but won’t eat may have a painful tooth or could be nauseous.

Environmental changes. Next, look at behavior and environment. Ask yourself these questions:

• Is your dog eating his meals?
• Is your other dog bullying him out of all or part of his food?
• If he is not eating, has anything changed about where or when he is fed?
• Have you changed foods or even flavors within the same brand?
• Have you changed bowls or noticed a chip in his old one? For whatever reason, your dog may be unhappy with his bowl.
• Is your dog in heat or is another dog in the house in heat? Hormonal turmoil can upset an entire household. Both males and females may decide to skip meals.

Serious Causes of Dog Weight Loss

If your dog appears to be eating his normal meals, he may later vomit the food back up once he is outside in your yard – and possibly (yuck, I know) another dog is cleaning it up or he’s vomiting in a spot you don’t normally notice. Watch him when he goes out to see and look at the vomit. Check his stool, too. He could be pooping blood. A soft stool or diarrhea could indicate an illness. Getting to the cause for weight loss in your dog due to vomiting and/or diarrhea requires a gastrointestinal workup by your veterinarian. This will likely include a blood chemistry panel, ultrasound, and/or radiographs.

Dogs with diabetes often eat voraciously but lose weight. The same is true of some dogs with cancer, although other dogs will stop eating well and become very finicky.

Dogs with serious heart problems may stop eating due to cardiac cachexia, which is unintentional weight loss due to heart failure.

Many metabolic disorders such as adrenal problems, hyperthyroidism, pancreatitis, and intestinal, liver, and kidney conditions can all cause unwanted weight loss.

Act Quickly to Help Your Dog

If you can’t quickly resolve the problem through the environmental reasons above for your dog’s weight loss, you need veterinary help. Unintentional weight loss in a dog is a call for heads up. Waiting will only make things worse.

With any luck, a fecal sample check or quick behavior and environment check will show a reason for the weight loss. Otherwise, the best course of action is a full veterinary exam and diagnostic workup.

The post Why Is My Dog Losing Weight? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Best Way to Freshen Dog Breath

To start, get your dog’s teeth professionally cleaned by your veterinarian. This will give you a big boost in trying to freshen dog breath at home. Just like when you get a dental cleaning, your dog’s teeth will be scaled and polished to remove the nasty plaque and tartar that contribute to bad breath. Periodontal disease is a major cause of bad breath.

If your dog has signs of infection in his mouth, your veterinarian will prescribe antibiotics to kill the bacteria. Oral infections create a particularly pungent odor.

How to Freshen Dog Breath at Home

At home, work to keep your dog’s mouth sparkly clean.

You can brush your dog’s teeth with an enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs. Introduce brushing slowly – start by just letting your dog lick the toothpaste off a toothbrush. The enzymes in enzymatic toothpaste work to break down plaque just by being in the mouth. Over time, you will be able to add brushing action to really clean your dog’s teeth, but even if that never happens, the enzymatic toothpaste will help. We like the PetSmile system, which has enzymatic toothpaste and applicators without bristles; you can rub the stuff right on the teeth and gums, and many dogs prefer this method. Homemade toothpastes may be more economical, if you’re willing to do the work (no human toothpaste, as it isn’t made to be swallowed).

Dental chews and water additives are another easy way to help prevent plaque buildup on your dog’s teeth that cause odor. A prescription dental food may help dogs with chronic tooth issues and bad breath.

If you want to naturally freshen dog breath, provide your dog with safe chew items. These include raw marrow bones (given under supervision), carrots, apples, and even celery. Chewing works similarly to tooth brushing by physically removing the bacteria that creates plaque. Note: dental sprays aren’t highly regarded as effective.

The post How to Freshen Dog Breath appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

You can experiment to design a custom toothpaste for your pup. The basic recipe calls for some sort of edible oil, which makes the lubricating base for the dog toothpaste; I love to use high-quality unrefined or “virgin” coconut oil for this purpose. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is used as an abrasive cleaning agent. And you can use a variety of foods as flavoring agents that will help your dog enjoy the brushing experience.

Is baking soda bad for dogs?

Baking soda is the most popular DIY toothpaste ingredient because it is widely available, inexpensive, and cleans teeth mechanically by scrubbing plaque and surface stains with mild abrasion. In addition, it helps prevent bad breath.

Some veterinarians warn that baking soda shouldn’t be used in homemade dog toothpaste because if enough is swallowed, it can upset the stomach and digestive tract (remember, dogs don’t spit out the toothpaste, but will end up swallowing much of what you use). However, according to Blackwell’s Five-Minute Veterinary Consult by G. Oseiler,et al (Wiley-Blackwell, 7^th Edition, 2021), symptoms of baking soda toxicity tend to occur after a dog has ingested 10 to 20 grams of baking soda per kilogram of body weight, which equates to about 1 to 2 tablespoons baking soda per pound of weight. Dogs are unlikely to be harmed by the tiny amounts that end up in their mouths, given that the baking soda is used in a relatively small amount, combined with other ingredients, and applied in tiny amounts on the toothbrush.

Ingredients to use in homemade dog toothpaste

Dog toothpastes often employ an edible fat as the base. Keep in mind that the toothpaste should be refrigerated after mixing the ingredients together. Here are some good choices to consider for the base:

• Coconut oil is recommended for canine tooth cleaning because its medium-chain fatty acids have antimicrobial effects. In addition, coconut oil has a soap-like consistency when it interacts with saliva, which helps prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. To melt coconut oil, place it in a measuring cup placed in hot water or briefly microwave.
• Olive oil and other vegetable oils are attractive to most dogs and, in small amounts, they are effective flavoring agents. In addition, they help distribute other ingredients during brushing.
• Pan drippings from roasted meat or chicken combine favorite flavors with gelatin that, when refrigerated, stays on a toothbrush and encourages dogs to enjoy the brushing process.

Candidates to use as flavoring agents for dog toothpaste have to appeal to dogs, not us. So forget the minty flavors that humans enjoy. Here are better choices for dogs:

• Bouillon, a concentrated meat stock sold as a paste or powder, can be added to home-prepared toothpastes. Look for salt-free or low-salt bouillon, or use very small amounts.
• Brewer’s yeast is a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is used in beer making, hence its name. It is sold as a nutritional supplement powder because of its high vitamin B content, minerals, and amino acids, and it is added to some dog foods to enhance their flavor.
• Yogurt and kefir are fermented milk products known for their beneficial bacteria, which help maintain a balanced oral (as well as digestive) microbiome. Use plain, unflavored products.
• Herbs and spices like mint, ground cinnamon, and parsley are often recommended. Try them, but let your dog decide whether they’re worth including.

To make the dog toothpaste, combine 1/4 cup coconut or other vegetable oil with 2 tablespoons baking soda, 2 tablespoons yogurt, and a few pinches of any other dog-safe flavoring agents in a small glass jar. If you want to use bouillon, stir 1 teaspoon beef or chicken bouillon into 1 tablespoon hot water and then mix into the base with the other ingredients. Stir well, refrigerate, and when ready, apply some to your dog’s toothbrush.

The post Homemade Dog Toothpaste appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Different Bacteria

Human strep throat is usually caused by Group A Streptococcus, while dogs are more susceptible to Group G Streptococcus. Dogs could, in theory, pass an infection between two people without getting sick themselves, but this is unlikely and can be avoided with basic hygiene such as washing hands and covering coughs and sneezes when sick.

Can Dogs Get Strep Throat?

Dog tonsillitis, or inflammation of the tonsils, occurs when a bacteria or virus either infects the tonsils directly or causes the dog to irritate their tonsils by coughing or vomiting. Thankfully, tonsillitis is much less common in dogs than in people.

Signs of dog tonsillitis include:

• Red, swollen tonsils
• Difficulty swallowing
• Fever
• Coughing or gagging
• Lethargy
• Poor appetite

The exact symptoms depend on the underlying cause of the tonsillitis. Periodontal disease is a common cause of bacteria in the mouth that can easily spread to the tonsils. Any disease that causes a cough or vomiting can also lead to tonsillitis.

Treating Dog Tonsillitis

If your dog has infected tonsils, your veterinarian will determine why your dog’s tonsils are inflamed. If the dog has dental disease, a dental cleaning is needed to clean the dog’s mouth. Viruses are treated with supportive care, and bacterial infections are treated with antibiotics.

You can protect your dog from tonsilitis and strep throat by keeping her up to date on core vaccines, avoiding contact with sick dogs, and providing regular dental care.

The post Can Dogs Get Strep Throat from a Human? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

If, in contrast, your dog normally has a good appetite, but suddenly stops eating his food, you should be concerned – and even more so if you dog has any other signs of illness, such as lethargy, panting, fever, signs of pain or discomfort, or diarrhea. In that case, get him to a vet! Any time our dogs change their normal behavior, there is likely something wrong that needs investigation. Ignoring early symptoms usually costs us, and our dogs.

Potential causes of a lack of appetite

There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat:

• Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.
• Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food.
• Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain.
• Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.
• If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Do not add flavor enhancers or human meal leftovers to tempt him into eating the food he rejected, because if it turns out that the food is dangerous, he may be harmed by eating it! Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem. If your dog eagerly accepts the new food, take the rejected food back to the store!
• Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.

Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.

If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.

The post Dog Sniffing Food But Not Eating appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

A study published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science in 2021 determined that chewing was not motivated by play or activities, but 94% of households provide their dogs with a chew object.

In 2020, a study published in Frontiers in Psychology determined that chewing sticks was similar to the use of a tool. In other words, “If chewing is caused  by, at least in some cases, a pain in the teeth and some inclination to chew sticks given that pain, or occurs after consuming food that is likely to get stuck in their teeth, this direct and immediate function of the behavior should qualify as tool use.” Researchers hypothesized that a dog probably doesn’t understand the difference between chewing on a wood stick from the woods and wooden furniture. Maybe dental chews would help here.

What Dog Experts Think

Since dogs aren’t talking and scientists can’t find a solid reason for why dogs chew on wood and other things, we looked to dog experts for some consensus.  Here’s what we found

Wood likely offers a natural smell with a satisfying hardness that the dog can chew and pull apart. It’s just nature’s favorite toy. Note: Remember, wood chewing is fraught with potential veterinary emergencies, from splinters in the mouth to pieces lodged in the gastrointestinal tract and more.

Puppies need to chew, as it helps soothe sore gums, just as it does a baby who is teething.

For adult dogs, boredom appears to play a part in chewing. You leave your dog every day while you go to work or school. He probably sleeps for most of that time, but eventually he gets tired of looking at four walls and through the window at a pesky squirrel. So, one day he gnaws on a nearby table leg – and it’s fun and handy.

Anxiety can cause a dog to chew. Take that same dog but change his temperament to one that is anxious about being alone, who hears noises and voices everywhere. To calm himself, he chews up a chair from the kitchen table.

The third reason is somewhat supported by research, at least the tool idea. It’s oral health. Dogs may have an instinct to exercise their jaws and clean their teeth- or just a drive to make them feel better. Sticks and furniture are hard and rough, so they’re good for that.

What Can You Do?

Buy him safe chew toys! The type of chew toys you get depends on your dog. A Chihuahua or Miniature Poodle won’t want anything big or too hard, but a strong chewer like a Doberman or German Shepherd need big and strong toys. Kong and Planet Dog are just two companies approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council that make toys that will probably last your dog’s lifetime.

More exercise or activity will help your dog – and you. Take him on longer walks, especially before you go to work. Make more play time. Take him places to stimulate his brain.

Deterrents

To stop compulsive or confirmed chewing right away, you can mix apple cider vinegar with water and then spray or paint it on the things you don’t want him to eat. It has a sour taste that dogs don’t like, and it won’t hurt him.

But the long-lasting effect of behavior modification – with toys and exercise – is what you really need to discourage your dog’s craving for furniture.

The post Why Does My Dog Chew on Wood? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

If your dog is excessively licking and has bad breath, it’s time to look in his mouth. Dental disease (tartar, gingivitis, infection, periodontal disease, loose teeth), growths and foreign bodies in the mouth can all cause oral pain and drooling, which can result in excessive licking. Be sure to look at the roof of the mouth. I can’t tell you how many times I have found a stick or a bone lodged across the roof of the mouth with the dog licking excessively to try and dislodge it.

If you notice sudden bad breath or persistent, chronic bad breath in your dog, it’s time to schedule a veterinary exam. Your doctor will do a thorough oral examination as well as a full physical exam. If dental disease is identified, a dental cleaning and evaluation under general anesthesia is usually recommended. If the mouth looks healthy and the source of the bad breath is not revealed during the physical examination, a general diagnostic work up may be recommended to include blood tests and possibly chest and abdomen x-rays.

If your veterinarian determines that your dog appears to be generally healthy but has bad breath, a home dental-care program may be recommended.  The gold standard of home dental care in dogs is daily tooth brushing with a veterinary enzymatic paste. If your dog will not tolerate tooth brushing, you can visit the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) website for effective alternative approaches to home dental care including diets, chews, water additives, wipes, sprays, and gels.

The post Bad Breath in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Before the dog’s teeth cleaning begins

After your dog is checked in to the hospital, his dental team will begin preparing him for the dental procedure. A veterinary technician will place an intravenous (IV) catheter, and collect a blood sample for pre-anesthetic blood work, including a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel. The CBC checks for anemia and any problems with his platelets or white blood cells. The chemistry panel gives his team a view of his overall organ function, including kidney values, liver enzymes, proteins, and electrolytes.

Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical examination of your dog. Your veterinarian will contact you if any abnormalities are found on his physical exam or blood work that may increase his risk for an adverse event under anesthesia. Your dog’s dental procedure may be rescheduled for another day after these abnormalities are either addressed or resolved.

A customized sedation and anesthetic plan will be created by his veterinarian. This plan takes into account your dog’s age, pre-existing health conditions, and any medications your dog may be taking. Your dog will receive medications first to sedate him and then to induce anesthesia.

Once your dog is anesthetized, the veterinary technician will place an endotracheal tube in his airway (trachea). The endotracheal tube delivers both oxygen and anesthetic gas directly to his lungs and keeps him asleep during his procedure. It also protects his respiratory system from the bacteria that will be aerosolized during his dental cleaning.

The next step is to connect your dog to the anesthetic monitoring equipment that will be keeping a constant vigil over his vital signs while he is anesthetized. His heart rate, respiratory rate, temperature, oxygen and carbon dioxide levels, blood pressure, and electrocardiogram (ECG) are displayed on an anesthetic monitor. This allows the veterinary team to intervene should changes to his vital parameters occur during his procedure.

Tools and techniques for a dog dental cleaning

The veterinary technician begins the dental cleaning by removing dental calculus from his teeth using an ultrasonic scaler – the same tool that your dental hygienist uses on your teeth. The technician will also use the ultrasonic scaler to remove tartar that has accumulated underneath the gum line.

Then dental radiographs are taken of all your dog’s teeth. Most adult dogs have 42 teeth: 20 on the upper jaw and 22 on the lower jaw. Depending on the size of your dog, as few as three teeth and as many as eight teeth can be imaged on a single x-ray. Smaller dogs will need six radiographs to image all of their teeth while larger dogs may require up to 14 radiographs.

The veterinarian will then begin the process of examining the crown – the visible part – of each tooth. She will look for fractures, excessive wear, discoloration, and mobility of the teeth. Teeth that are fractured, gray or black, or that can be wiggled back and forth will likely need to be extracted.

The vet will use a dental probe to look for deep pockets between the teeth and the gingiva (gums). The presence of a deep pocket is indicative of underlying periodontal disease. She will also examine the radiographs of his teeth and take note of any damaged or diseased tooth roots or bone loss around the teeth. Teeth that have damaged or diseased roots or that have significant bone loss around them will likely need to be extracted.

Dog tooth extractions

Extracting a dog’s tooth is a multi-step process. The first step is to numb the region where the offending tooth is located by injecting a local anesthetic. Dogs can still feel pain even when they are under general anesthesia. Injecting a local anesthetic prior to extracting a tooth ensures that your dog will not feel pain during the procedure.

The next step is to create a gingival flap. A small incision is made in the gingiva on either side of the tooth. A flat, spoon-shaped tool called a periosteal elevator is used to lift the gingiva away from the tooth and the underlying bone. A high-speed dental drill is used to carefully burr away the bone that overlays the roots of the tooth. This process is called “making a window” over each root. Each tooth root is completely surrounded by bone. The only part of the bone that is removed is the part that covers the most superficial section of the root. This allows the veterinarian to visualize the root’s position within the bone and aids in extraction of the root.

Dogs have two types of teeth: single-rooted teeth and multi-rooted teeth. Multi-rooted teeth may have two or three roots. Prior to extraction, the crown of a multi-rooted tooth must be split into single-rooted sections. A high speed dental drill with a long cutting bit is used to carefully divide the crown along the position of each root.

Each tooth root is attached to the surrounding bone by a band of tissue called the periodontal ligament. This ligament needs to be carefully stretched and torn in order to release the root from the bone. A tool called a dental root elevator is used to stretch the periodontal ligament.

A dental root elevator has a long stem with a tapered half-moon shape at the end. The end is inserted into the space between the tooth root and the bone; this space is called the root socket. Then the elevator is gently rotated in one direction within the socket and held for 10 seconds. Pressure is released and then the elevator is rotated in the opposite direction and held for 10 seconds. This process is repeated until the root is mobile and can be elevated from the socket.

Elevating a single tooth root can take as little as 30 seconds for roots that are already loosened by severe periodontal disease. But if scar tissue has developed around the root or the root has become brittle, it can take up to 15 minutes to cleanly extract a single root. Brittle roots can break into multiple pieces, creating a situation where more of the surrounding bone has to be removed in order to retrieve each piece of root from the socket. This can be a long and frustrating process – and many swear jars have been filled to the brim during these types of dental procedures!

Once the tooth has been extracted, a dental radiograph is taken of the region to verify that all of the tooth roots have been completely removed. Any sharp edges of the surrounding bone are softened with a high speed dental drill using a rounding burr. The gingival flap is pulled over the top of the bone and sutured to the gingiva on the other side.

What happens after the dental cleaning

The final steps of the dental procedure include polishing your dog’s teeth and applying a dental barrier sealant. Polishing the teeth buffs out the microscopic scratches that the ultrasonic scaler can leave on the enamel. Plaque loves to grab on to those scratches and hang on, so polishing the teeth reduces the grippiness of future plaque deposits. Applying a barrier sealant prevents plaque-forming bacteria from attaching to the teeth for the first two weeks after a dental procedure.

After the dental procedure is finished, your dog will be woken up from anesthesia. His veterinary technician will remove his endotracheal tube and stay with him while he recovers from anesthesia. He will be ready to go home with you once he is able to stand and walk.

Your veterinarian will give you specific instructions about when to give your dog his first meal after his dental procedure and what to feed him over the next several days. You may observe some blood-tinged drool and facial swelling over the next 24 to 48 hours that will gradually subside. Your dog will go home with pain medications to take over the next several days. If he had a tooth root abscess, your dog may also be sent home with an antibiotic.

You will also be given instructions on how to maintain your dog’s clean and healthy teeth. This at-home dental care plan will likely include daily tooth brushing or dental chews (see “At-Home Dental Care for Dogs”). An annual dental prophylaxis (routine cleaning and examination under general anesthesia) will also be recommended.

The post Dog Teeth Cleaning appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

We brush our teeth at least twice a day. You may have noticed that the surface of your teeth will start to feel fuzzy when you get close to the next time you are due to brush your teeth. When you eat and drink, bacteria in your mouth begin to accumulate on the surface of your teeth. This creates a biofilm, which feels fuzzy when you run your tongue over it.

As the biofilm accumulates layer upon layer, plaque is formed – both on the surface of your teeth and below the gumline. Over time, plaque that is not removed by brushing and flossing becomes hardened and mineralized, forming dental calculus.

This same process occurs in your dog’s mouth. It does not matter if your dog eats canned food, dry kibble, frozen fresh food, or a home-cooked diet. Any food in the mouth promotes the production of biofilm, plaque, and dental calculus. The exception to this are kibble diets that have been specifically formulated to remove plaque and tartar accumulation, such as the Hills t/d prescription diet.

Brushing your dog’s teeth twice a day promotes good oral health and minimizes the risk of developing periodontal disease. However, even brushing just three times a week has been shown to provide a benefit.

How to brush your dog’s teeth

The key to introducing a dog to tooth brushing is to take it slow. Start with just rubbing your finger or a soft damp washcloth on the outer surface of your dog’s front teeth. Rub with a back and forth motion and concentrate on where the teeth meet the gums.

Once your dog is accustomed to this routine, start advancing toward the back teeth. The teeth on your dog’s upper jaw overhang the teeth on his lower jaw, so you may need to open his mouth slightly to rub the lower teeth.

If your dog will let you open his mouth to access the middle and inner surfaces of his teeth, add this into the tooth-rubbing routine. Many dogs are resistant to this, so if this is a game-changer for him, then don’t push it. You want the tooth-brushing experience to be a good one, not one that he dislikes.

Now you can move on to the next step. Introduce a soft toothbrush or a finger brush to the routine. Again, start with the front teeth and gradually move to the back teeth. You can use a toothbrush that is made for dogs, a rubber brush that fits over the end of your finger, or a soft toothbrush made for human babies. If your dog objects to the toothbrush but is still comfortable with a damp washcloth, you can use the washcloth as your brush.

The final step is to introduce dog toothpaste. Dog toothpaste comes in many flavors, such as chicken, beef, peanut butter, and mint. Put a little dab of toothpaste on your finger and allow your dog to investigate the smell and flavor. If he reels away from it, try a different flavor!

Do not use human toothpaste; it is not meant to be swallowed. We are not able to instruct our dogs to “rinse and spit,” so we need to use a toothpaste that is safe for his gastrointestinal tract.

For even more toothbrushing tips, click here.

How to select a dog toothpaste and toothbrush

When selecting a dental health product, look for the seal of approval from the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC).

Look at the toothpaste you use for yourself and look at the label. You will probably notice a small emblem on the label that states “ADA Seal of Acceptance.” This means that the toothpaste has met the standards set forth by the American Dental Association to benefit your oral health.

Your canine companions have a similar organization looking out for their oral health. The VOHC was formed in 1997 and has the support of the Academy of Veterinary Dentistry and the American Veterinary Dental College.

The VOHC does not test dental products. Instead, they accept applications from manufacturers of dental products to receive the seal of approval. The VOHC completes a rigorous review of the scientific studies backing the manufacturer’s claims. If the product meets the stringent standards set forth by the VOHC, then the product is accepted and is added to the VOHC list of approved products.

This is a voluntary program. A product that does not carry the VOHC seal of approval does not mean that the product does not work. But a product that has the VOHC seal of approval gives you peace of mind that the product has met a set of stringent standards, is safe, and is proven to work as intended.

Look for the “VOHC Accepted” logo when selecting a dental product for your dog. A list of approved products can be found here.

Alternatives to tooth-brushing

If your dog really objects to having his teeth brushed, there is no need for despair. There are several treats, chews, and additives that you can put in your dog’s food or water to help minimize the production of plaque in your dog’s mouth. Twice daily tooth brushing remains the gold standard for at-home dental care, but using one of these alternatives will provide some benefit to your dog.

There are many treats, chews, and food/water additives that claim to be beneficial for your dog’s oral health.

Brushing your dog’s teeth is not enough!

It is important to note that starting an at-home dental care plan after periodontal disease has been diagnosed will not reverse that disease or stop its progression. If your veterinarian suspects that your dog has periodontal disease, the first step in addressing that problem is a professional dental cleaning and oral exam. Then you can successfully start an at-home dental care program once your dog’s mouth is a clean and healthy slate.

The post At-home Dental Care for Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

During this procedure, the operator uses a tool called a hand scaler to remove dental calculus from your dog’s teeth. A hand scaler is a long, thin metal tool with a hook on the end. The hook has a sharp edge on the inside of the curve and ends in a sharp point. If your dog moves his head even slightly during the procedure, the operator can lose control of this sharp instrument and cause serious damage to your dog’s gums.

Hand scalers are not effective at removing dental calculus from underneath your dog’s gums or between the teeth. Dogs may not allow the operator to reach the teeth at the back of his mouth, meaning that only the front teeth can be scaled. Most dogs will not allow an operator to scale the inside surfaces of their teeth.

Anesthesia-free teeth cleaning does not allow for a full oral examination of all tooth surfaces and the gums. And the majority of early to mid-stage periodontal disease is hidden below the gumline. Only dental radiographs can give us the full picture of what we cannot see on the surface.

Anesthesia-free teeth cleaning can be painful and traumatic for your dog. It may even make him averse to any dental care plan (like tooth brushing) you try to implement at home.

The post Anesthesia-Free Teeth Cleaning for Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.