Scared Dog? Stay Calm

You are your dog’s person, his caretaker and partner in life. When he is scared, he will naturally look to you for comfort. Your job in these situations is to stay calm and be his rock.

Talk to your dog in a slow, soothing tone. High-pitched baby talk can be tempting, but this may just exacerbate a fearful dog’s distress. Channel your inner Morgan Freeman to calm your dog. It doesn’t matter what exactly you say, but some easy options are to talk your dog through what is going on and what you are going to do next or use human panic attack strategies such as listing things in the environment that you and your dog can see, smell, hear, touch, and taste. Grounding yourself will help to ground your dog.

Keep your movements slow and fluid, avoiding jerking motions. Taking a few deep breaths can help you to physically relax, which in turn signals to your dog that he can relax.

Doing a “slow blink” when your dog is looking at you is a calming signal. This says to your dog, “See—I’m comfortable closing my eyes. There is nothing to worry about.”

Safety First

Quickly assess your dog’s safety—is she in a secure location? Does she have a well-fitted collar or harness and leash? Frightened dogs often bolt and are not thinking straight when motivated by fear. You want to prevent your dog from running into the road or disappearing into woods or your neighborhood.

While not a long-term solution, a slip lead is the most secure for these situations. If there is any chance that your dog can get out of her regular collar, you can create a makeshift slip lead by pulling the snap end of the leash through the handle to create a loop. Then place the loop over your dog’s head so that it will slide and become snug if your dog pulls or bolts.

The other plus to a slip lead is that you can make the loop large to carefully put it on a nervous dog without touching her. This is perfect for fearful dogs who may snap or bite if you try to grab their collar.

Offer Physical Comfort

Physical contact is beneficial for many scared dogs. Pet your scared shaking dog with long, slow strokes from head to tail. You can also gently massage her ears to promote relaxation.

If your dog enjoys cuddling, hold her close to your body so she can feel your heartbeat. Take slow, deep breaths to encourage your dog to relax and match your breathing patterns. These slow breaths will also help to slow your heartbeat. If your dog is not keen on being held, holding her may not be helpful.

If you do not know the dog that you are trying to comfort, proceed with caution. A scared dog may snap or bite if she feels cornered. If the dog becomes more agitated as you approach or reach for her, step back a little and break eye contact until she relaxes.

Distractions

You can use a variety of distractions to calm a scared, shaking dog. Treats are an excellent option if you have food available—many dogs love food and the act of eating provides comfort. You can use whatever food you have on hand as long as it is not toxic to dogs (save the chocolate to comfort yourself!).

You can also talk to your dog, engage her in play, or ask her to perform some easy behaviors that she knows well. When using training as a distraction, praise any effort that your dog makes. For example, maybe when she is relaxed she has a really reliable hand touch where she presses her nose to your hand. If she is scared, praise her if she even flicks her head toward your hand when you ask her to touch. Your goal is to make it easy for her to succeed and then tell her how wonderful and smart she is. Gradually she will focus more and more on you and less on whatever scared her.

Identify Triggers and Avoid

Whenever possible, identify what is causing your dog to be scared and get her away from it. Here are some examples:

• If your dog is afraid of the running vacuum, take her outside or to another room where she can’t hear it as loudly.
• If your dog is upset by construction noises outside, play classical music or put the TV on to help drown out the scary sounds.
• If your dog is afraid of a person approaching on the sidewalk, cross the street or make a turn to get away from the person.
• If your dog is scared of a dog running toward her, pick her up or place yourself between the two dogs as a barrier.

Shelter in the Storm

If you can’t avoid whatever is scaring your dog, try to provide him with a hiding place so he can feel a little more secure. This might mean putting a blanket over your lap so he can hide under your legs in his own private fort or moving out of the center of a busy crowd and finding a quiet spot against a wall so your dog doesn’t have to worry about someone sneaking up on him from behind. Crates are an excellent “safe spot” for many dogs.

The post How to Calm a Scared Dog appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Loss of Appetite in Dogs

Some health conditions can lead to a loss of appetite. A dog with kidney or liver problems may feel nauseous and not want to eat. Many of these dogs will approach their meals, drooling even, but will turn and walk away.

Check your dog’s mouth for any sign of injuries such as ulcers, a stick or bone caught across the roof of his mouth – it happens more often than you may think! – or an electrical burn from chomping on a cord. Many of these dogs will act fine, at least for a while, despite not eating.

Some dogs just seem to be naturally finicky, like, this week beef is the favorite protein but last week only salmon would do. This is where it pays to know your dog.

Loss of Appetite in Breeding Dogs

If your dog is an intact male and you have an attractive girl in heat (basically ANY girl in heat is attractive), your boy may be perfectly healthy but in lust. This includes any bitch in the neighborhood, not just in your household.

For most males this will only last for a couple of days, right around when the female is in “prime time.” Provided he does not have any health problems that could be exacerbated by fasting for a few days, simply figure you are saving on dog food.

Another healthy-but-not-eating scenario can occur in a female who is pregnant and suffering from something similar to morning sickness. This tends to happen around two to three weeks post breeding. Generally, these females will eat something at some point during the day. Occasionally, even false-pregnant bitches will do this, too.

Adolescents

On to the non-sex-related anorexic dogs, although somewhat related. Adolescent males often will not eat well. Despite your most tempting offerings, they will walk on by. Meanwhile, they are burning up calories and can get quite thin. This is usually a stage somewhere in between 6 to 12 months of age. Most of them do eat something, but it can be very frustrating to owners. This too shall pass.

Canine Secret Eating

Then we get to the tricky non-eaters. First, be sure that someone else is not feeding your dog. Another family member, a kind neighbor, your cat (usually inadvertently on the cat’s part). Some dogs are such gluttons that they will eat these extras plus their own meals, but others admit they are full. This includes dogs who hunt and scavenge on their own. If your dog is out catching and eating squirrels or rabbits, he truly may not be hungry. It could also be a change in the dog’s bowl you haven’t noticed.

If your dog won’t eat, you have a small window of time to evaluate the situation, The better you know your dog, the easier it is to decide. Taking the dog’s temperature, pulse, and respiration and watching for diarrhea, constipation, and changes in urine output is wise. Keep your veterinarian in the loop if your dog is at all very young, old, or battling a chronic disease. We don’t want you to take chances, but you usually don’t have to panic either.

The post My Dog Is Not Eating appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

And yet, there is an explanation. Rather, several explanations.

What IS This Sucking Behavior?

We’ve all seen human babies sucking on pacifiers, their thumbs, or even on blankets and child experts tell us that this kind of instinctive sucking calms babies and makes them feel more secure. The same is likely true for puppies, who are born with an innate need to suckle and knead. Even after the mother dog has long since stopped producing milk, some pups will attempt to suckle, perhaps as a way to soothe themselves.

In addition, puppies will often look to something similar to their mother’s soft skin and fur for comfort: something like a supple, velvety stuffed toy or blanket.  Most of the time, a puppy will grow out of this behavior, but what happens if it doesn’t? What happens if your adult dog continues to knead her old threadbare blanket or suck on her ancient stuffed hippopotamus? Should you be worried that you’ve inadvertently created an canine psychoneurotic?

Is Blanket Sucking a Harmless Behavior?

The answer in most cases, there’s nothing inherently wrong with an adult dog who is still mouthing and kneading her blanket or toy.  We’ve all had dogs that choose one particular stuffed toy as their inseparable companion: years ago, my dog Casey claimed a stuffed penguin that he carried around everywhere, even to the construction site of the house I was building where it got run over by a tractor, dropped in a culvert, smeared with concrete, and buried in three feet of dirt . . . yet even then, even when it was totally dilapidated, he refused to give it up.

Gwen Bailey, author of more than a dozen books on dog behavior and member of the U.K.’s Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, says this kind of “object-sucking” is usually quite harmless, the canine equivalent of a toddler who inexplicably latches onto a favorite “blankie” and carries it everywhere. She explains that while this behavior in adult dogs isn’t terribly common, it’s not deviant by any stretch of the imagination; it’s also not breed-specific, so you’re just as likely to see it in a Great Dane as in a Dachshund.

If, however, your dog’s blanket- or toy-sucking behavior is persistent and unremitting, and you’re unable to distract him from it, the behavior may have become compulsive. If you’re concerned about this possibility, talk with your veterinarian about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating compulsive behavior.

There is one other situation where a caretaker needs to be concerned: so-called “flank-sucking,” which is especially prevalent in Doberman Pinschers and Weimaraners.  Flank-sucking—when a dog repetitively sucks or holds in his mouth a piece of its own flank skin–is a type of canine compulsive disorder that can cause physical injury to the dog’s skin, and calls for veterinary intervention.

And Then There’s Chewing

Some dogs don’t suck on their blankets, they chew them. Constantly. Until the blanket is, as the Coroner sings in the Wizard of Oz, not only “merely dead, but really most sincerely dead.”  Again, this isn’t necessarily harmful, unless your dog is actually eating the blanket or toy. In that case, you need to find a way to keep him away from those objects, and provide an alternative like a stuffed Kong, an all-natural edible dog chew, or dental bones. Remember, though, that just because a dog treat may be edible, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe, making supervision a must. For instance, if your dog breaks off a large chunk of a chew and swallows it, there’s a risk of him either choking or developing an obstruction.

As long as your dog is simply chewing and not devouring, there’s no need to worry, but it’s important to teach her what is and isn’t appropriate to chew on. If she’s a blanket-chewer, restrict her to her own blanket, not the one on your or your child’s bed. The same is true with toys versus things like shoes or clothes. If the chewing turns destructive—you come home to a couch that’s in tatters, or your down pillow looks like a deflated balloon—then you have an entirely different problem on your hands. Adult dogs can engage in destructive chewing for a variety of reasons, including separation anxiety, boredom, anxiety, or as a coping mechanism. Again, you need to speak to a behaviorist to get to the root of the problem and find a solution.

What About Licking?

Some dogs are inveterate lickers. They don’t suck their blankets, they don’t chew their blankets, they simply lick them. Constantly.

It’s important to remember that dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Often, they lick objects to simply understand and gather information about them. At the same time, licking blankets, toys, and their beds can be just as comforting and soothing to your dog as sucking. It also releases endorphins—those “feel-good” hormones—that help them relax and feel comfortable.

But like excessive chewing, dogs can also engage in nonstop licking out of pure boredom, which can easily lead to obsession. Any behavior that continues for a length of time should be discussed with your veterinarian, as there could be an underlying medical condition that needs to be addressed.

In the end, whether your dog is sucking her blanket, kneading it, chewing on it, or licking it, chances are there’s nothing wrong—she’s just trying to make herself feel good!

The post Why Do Dogs Suck on Blankets? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Dogs also pant when they are stressed. This could be due to a loud noise, being in a place that your dog doesn’t like, or general anxiety. Other signs that your dog is distressed include tense face and posture, ears turned back and the whites of the eyes showing, and carrying her tail low and close to her body. She may also whine and pace or show destructive behaviors.

More concerning is the dog who is panting because she is having trouble breathing. Senior dogs can develop laryngeal paralysis, where the vocal folds in the throat are unable to move properly and can block the airway. These dogs frequently pant as a means of forcing air through. Other causes of difficulty breathing include respiratory infections, pneumonia, cancer in the lungs, and heart failure.

Other signs that your dog isn’t getting enough air include:

• Pale, bluish, or purple tongue and gums
• Stretching the head and neck out straight from the body
• Collapse, especially during exercise
• Abdomen moving in and out dramatically as the dog breathes

My Dog Keeps Panting and Won’t Settle at Night

We get it: A dog endlessly pacing and panting at night is annoying at best. It can prevent you from sleeping, which is a problem.

Dog May Need to Go Out

Not wanting to settle may mean that your dog needs to go outside, especially if she is a young puppy or a senior dog. These guys don’t have quite the bladder capacity of adult dogs in their prime. If your dog tends to pee only a small amount at a time, walk her long enough that she can completely empty her bladder before coming back inside.

Urinary tract infections and gastrointestinal upset that leads to diarrhea may cause your dog to need more frequent bathroom breaks. This discomfort can also lead to panting because your dog is stressed. Some medications, such as prednisone, can also make your dog urinate larger amounts and more often.

If your dog settles after a quick bathroom break, nothing to worry about. If these extra trips outside become a frequent issue, however, it is time for a vet visit.

Stress

Dogs may pace and pant at night if they are stressed. Possible triggers could be an alarm sounding somewhere in the house, moving to a new home, adding a new family member, fireworks, or storms.

If you can identify something that is stressing your dog, try to eliminate the cause or dampen its sound. You can also make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise before bedtime so that she is tired and more likely to go to sleep.

If your dog has more generalized anxiety that shows up during the day or just doesn’t resolve, she may need anti-anxiety medications from your vet or a veterinary behaviorist.

Pain

Pain can cause dogs to pant and pace. If your dog is hurting, she will have trouble getting comfortable, and may keep moving in an effort to find a better spot to rest. Pain also causes stress, resulting in the panting.

If you suspect your dog is in pain, schedule a veterinary exam to find out where your dog hurts and why so she can be treated appropriately.

Cognitive Dysfunction

Just like humans, dog brains can get a little bit addled as they age. Doggy dementia is called canine cognitive dysfunction, or CCD. Classic signs of this disorder are senior dogs wandering around, especially at night, and then sleeping at weird times of day. Your dog may also seem disoriented or have other personality changes.

Thankfully, there is a treatment for canine cognitive dysfunction. The medication selegiline (brand name Anipryl) is helpful for many dogs, and can restore your dog to her normal personality and habits. Enforcing a normal sleep schedule by keeping your dog active during the day can also help.

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What is Displacement Behavior?

Displacement behavior is when your dog does something normal, but at a weird time that feels out of context. This occurs when your dog is experiencing conflict or frustration.

Conflict is when your dog feels pulled between reactions to a situation. The pressure can result from two different things that are positive to the dog but can’t be done at once, or one option could come with fear or anxiety. Some examples include if your dog:

• Wants to visit you when you get home, but also wants to chase cars.
• Wants to approach another dog, but is nervous.
• Wants to pull on the leash, but knows he isn’t supposed to.
• Wants to go to the person calling him, but is scared of an obstacle, such as a shiny floor.

Frustration is when your dog wants to do something, but is blocked or otherwise prevented from doing it. For example, she:

• Wants to visit a person, but on a leash.
• Wants to approach another dog, but is behind a fence.

Examples of Displacement Behavior

There are many things that a dog might do as a displacement behavior. These include:

• excessive licking
• yawning
• circling
• whining
• barking
• sniffing
• tongue flick
• grabbing a toy
• drinking
• eating
• scratching
• mounting

Which behavior the dog does can vary by the situation and the individual dog.

Here are three examples of displacement behaviors in action:

1. Many dogs want to greet other dogs but are unsure about how the other dog will respond. They respond to this conflict between wanting to play and wanting to maintain a safe distance by licking excessively, eating grass, or yawning.
2. My oldest dog prefers to be with me at all times. If my husband is holding her leash – even if I am within sight – she whines and paces side to side. She is with a person she likes, but is prevented from reaching me, her favorite person. This frustration comes out as whining and pacing.
3. My youngest dog is always in a hurry and tends to pull on the leash. I have worked on this a lot, primarily by standing still when she puts tension on the leash. She understands that keeping a loose lead means the walk will continue, but she really wants to go fast! Her solution to this conflict (wanting to be good and get to walk, but wanting to go faster) is to smush her face between my knees and walk beneath me for several steps.

What Displacement Behavior Means

If you notice your dog showing a displacement behavior, consider his overall body language and the situation that he is in. Is he mostly loosey-goosey and relaxed, or is his body language stressed? Displacement behavior can be a response to stress, but stress isn’t always a bad thing.

Stress is a normal part of life. Your dog experiences positive stress when he is excited about something, and negative stress when he is anxious. Short bouts of stress from conflict or frustration are nothing to be concerned about. The issue is when stress becomes a frequent occurrence or if it is interfering with your dog’s ability to enjoy day-to-day life.

If your dog quickly bounces back and is relaxed and happy or playing after showing displacement behavior, it just means he was temporarily unsure about or frustrated by the situation. For example, maybe he started eating grass as he approached another dog, but then they greeted each other politely and started playing. This is nothing to worry about.

However, if your dog continues to show signs of distress even after the initial conflict has resolved, or if frustration can’t be addressed, this could be problematic in the long term. Let’s go back to the example of a dog worried about a shiny floor. His owner is calling him, and he wants to go to her, but is afraid of the floor and starts whining and licking his lips. He finally goes to his owner but continues to pant and be tense with the whites of his eyes showing for ten minutes after the event. This dog is distressed.

If your dog barks hysterically out the window at dogs that he can’t approach for hours on end, he is staying in that stressed, hyper-aroused state for an extended period of time. This prolonged frustration isn’t great for him (plus it is probably driving you and your neighbors insane).

What to Do When You See Displacement Behavior

Consider what your dog is doing, why he is doing it, and how he behaves after the displacement behavior ends. All of these factors will affect how you should respond.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior stem from frustration? Try to identify the cause of the frustration and eliminate it. This will minimize your dog’s stress and prevent the reaction from becoming a bad habit. For example, if your dog screams when he sees other dogs out the window because he wants to play, prevent him from looking out the window by blocking access to that room or putting up opaque window clings.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from a place of insecurity and conflict, but then resolve positively? For example, the dog who is nervous about approaching another dog but then plays happily. You can reduce this displacement behavior by building up your dog’s confidence and comfort around other dogs. Arrange playdates with calm, friendly dogs that you know will be gentle with your dog so he can have a lot of positive experiences approaching and interacting with other dogs.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from fear, and have the potential to end badly? For example, a dog who alternates between barking and lunging at another dog and retreating fearfully, even if the other dog is calm. This dog is distressed and could potentially bite the other dog if pushed too hard. If you find yourself in this situation, get your dog out of there as quickly and safely as possible. Strong fear of other dogs should be addressed with the help of a veterinary behaviorist and/or your veterinarian.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from insecurity or fear, and lead to prolonged anxiety? For example, the dog who is afraid of the shiny floor and stays stressed out even after getting to his owner. You can reduce this displacement behavior by avoiding shiny floors, providing rugs or mats for your dog to walk on, and/or a desensitization program to help your dog become more comfortable with the shiny floors.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior itself have the potential to cause harm? For example, a dog who obsessively licks one spot on his leg when he experiences conflict or frustration. This dog could eventually create bald patches and even damage the skin if he continues licking. Try to identify the cause of your dog’s behavior and eliminate the source if possible. You will likely also need help from your veterinarian or a behaviorist to prevent physical damage and break the habit.

Redirected Aggression

Redirected aggression is similar to displacement behavior, but works a little differently. The classic example of redirected aggression is when a dog wants to attack a dog on the outside of his fence but can’t get to it, so he bites his owner or a housemate instead. A dog showing redirected aggression is extremely frustrated, but instead of finding an innocuous displacement behavior such as grabbing a toy or whining to vent that frustration, he does exactly what he wants to do to the first poor soul who gets in his way.

The Bottom Line

Periodic, mild episodes of displacement behavior are a normal response to conflict or frustration. When possible, identify the source of your dog’s conflict or frustration so that you can address both the feelings and the behavior.

If your dog’s displacement behavior itself could cause harm, or if the result of the situation causes distress for anyone involved, start by avoiding the situation while you seek help from your veterinarian and/or a veterinary behaviorist.

The post Recognizing Displacement Behavior in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

The way we humans move matters. For example, do you stand tall and walk toward your dog when you’re calling him? That may be why he doesn’t come to you. On Planet Dog, that direct-facing approach sends a message to stop or back up. (Much better to angle to the side and start moving back a bit as you call—that tells your dog to come along.)

But it’s not just our human movement that deserves attention. The subtleties of our dog’s movement matters, too. When you sit down next to your dog for a cuddle, does she look away or lean away? Does she yawn or lick her lips? If she does those things, but you continue petting her, you may have an answer for why she “doesn’t listen” to you in general: You’re not listening to her, either, so she feels a bit on her own.

Instead, when you see one of those signals, give your dog space. Back up a foot. Now does she come over for a snuggle? Great! If not, also great, because you listened to her, which will build some critical trust.

Canids + Primates = Misunderstandings

Canids and primates use their bodies differently. Dr. Patricia McConnell’s classic book The Other End of the Leash powerfully illustrates how that’s at the root of an enormous amount of dog-human misunderstanding. Many of the issues that send people to dog trainers—and eventually veterinary behaviorists, as things escalate—stem from our human lack of attention to body language. It’s also the hidden cause of the confusion and disappointment that runs through countless dog-human relationships.

“We humans are talking . . . but our dogs are watching,” Dr. McConnell writes. “Once you learn to focus on the visual signals between you and your dog, the impact of even tiny movements will become overwhelmingly obvious.”

For example, let’s say there’s a new dog you’re hoping to befriend. In your human (primate) style, you’re inclined to move in close, get face-to-face, reach out and even hug, just like chimps and bonobos would. But when dogs (or wolves and coyotes) have a friendly intent, they would not do any of those things. Oops. No wonder the dog ducks away, backs up, or even growls if he doesn’t have the ability to retreat.

Let’s say you knew enough to approach that dog in a more canine way; you start by giving the dog some space, angle slightly to the side, crouch, and glance away. McConnell notes that a human leaning in just half an inch makes a dog move away, where leaning back just slightly works as an invitation. The difference of an inch is dramatic in terms of building a relationship!

“Felt Safety” is Critical

Given how important body language is, why is it that beginner dog training classes never seem to spend any time on it? I suspect the answer is that we humans are in a rush to learn something that feels “real” and seems obviously helpful, like sit or stay.

Well, ask any veterinary behaviorist who’s counseled folks after dog bites, and they’ll tell you learning two-way body language is plenty useful and frankly a lot more important than “heel.”

Your skill in this area determines whether your dog feels safe with you and whether you’re able to assess when your dog feels uncomfortable.

It typically doesn’t even cross our minds that our dogs don’t feel safe. After all, we know they’re safe! But being safe and feeling safe are two very different things, and if an animal (humans included) doesn’t have “felt safety” it can affect an enormous range of behaviors. Dogs who feel safer become less skittish, obviously—but also less barky, less jumpy, more able to settle, and more attentive because they trust that listening to humans will work out well for them.

This is where the importance of body language comes in: Our body movement can either make our dogs feel safer or less safe. And our attention to their body language can either make them feel safer or less safe. It’s not an exaggeration to say that getting this right will transform your relationship with your dog.

Body Language 101

For me, Body Language Lesson #1 is teaching humans to get in the habit of giving their dog agency, the ability to choose. By being intentional with our own body movement, we can offer the relationship-building gift of distance. We can train ourselves to stop a foot or two away and invite the interaction rather than forcing it. We can stop the striding in with big footsteps and a direct approach. We can stop looming, cornering our dogs in small spaces, and swooping in to pick them up and hold them prisoner. In short, we can stop smothering them with our primate displays of affection.

If that key lesson is absorbed, it becomes a little less important to become an immediate expert at what is a trickier subject: truly reading your own dog’s body language. Almost everyone can see that a dog who’s running away, pulling away, or shaking is afraid. But sometimes we need a trainer to teach us how to look for loose, relaxed body language versus a stiff, still posture that signals uneasiness. There is much more to learn to recognize in time—tucked tails, lip-licking, rolling over, the lifting of one paw, a whale eye, etc.—but giving space and agency is an immediate game-changer.

Charades Mindset Helps

While most of the critical body-language-reading moments of the day do not happen during a training session—bites happen at Thanksgiving, not during training! —casual daily at-home sessions are incredibly helpful. Frequent practice in a predictable, rewarding situation will smooth the communication path between you and your dog. I encourage folks to make a daily habit of a handful of relaxed, fun, two-minute lessons. Teach easy, low-pressure stuff, such as touch and spin. By working on these things that “don’t matter,” you’ll be building your fluency together, which is the whole ballgame.

Have you ever played the game charades? When you’re trying to get better at body language, I think it’s helpful to use that game’s mindset as you train. The skills it takes to win at charades are 100% relevant to the skills it takes to build solid two-way communication with your dog:

• Think through what you’re going to communicate beforehand.
• Keep it simple or you’ll throw your teammate off.
• No extraneous body movements or you could get onto a tangent you can’t get back from.
• Clear your mind as you’re trying to decipher their clues, because your own thoughts will take you down the wrong road.
• Give your full attention to your partner.
• Understand that each round is half their job, but also half your job.

Your dog has actually been trying to play charades with you forever! He’s been watching your every move, trying to assess its meaning, and hoping you’ll respond to the clues he offers. Imagine his delight when he finds his teammate is suddenly coming to practice and engaged in the game! You’ll both end up enjoying the prize, which is a deepening interspecies friendship filled with trust and understanding.

The post How to Win the Body-Language Game appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

How to Tell If Your Dog Is Depressed

When it comes to depressed dogs, the signs vary, but depression in dogs typically involves a significant behavioral change. Some of the more common signs include:

• Lethargy/sleeping more
• Lack of interest in preferred activities/toys
• Unwilling to socialize
• Short tempered
• Lack of appetite
• Increase in destructive behavior
• Hiding
• Increased anxiety/clinging to owner

Causes of Canine Depression

Much of the time, depression in dogs can be linked to an event or experience. Perhaps one of the most common triggers is big changes in routine such as moving to a new home or an owner switching from day shift to night shift. Bringing new members into the family—like the arrival of a puppy, a significant other moving in, or a baby being born—can be a problem spot as well. The potential for depression isn’t a reason to avoid these kinds of life events, but it should certainly be motivation to consider how best to help your dog adapt when they are occurring.

Dogs also can become depressed following the loss of a family member, whether human or canine, or any regular companion. They can and do experience grief and grief-related depression. It takes time for them to work through the loss and develop a new routine. In addition, they are often faced with how to handle the grief their owners are likely going through at the same time.

The most serious instances of depression in dogs often come from cases where the animal has experienced trauma, abuse, or extended isolation. Shutting out the world can be a survival strategy in these extremes and can carry over even when the dog has been removed from the environment that caused the trauma. Building trust with the dog and seeking expert advice are extremely important when working with an animal whose depression likely stemmed from a deeply traumatic experience.

Caring for a Depressed Dog

Chronic pain and illness can go hand-in-hand with depression in dogs, so your veterinarian is an essential part of diagnosis and treatment plans for dogs suffering from depression. Your vet will explore potential physiological causes which can lead to your dog becoming depressed or exhibiting symptoms similar to depression. Of course, if something is discovered during the exam, the primary treatment will be to first resolve the underlying issue.

If physiological reasons for the dog’s depression are ruled out, look at your dog’s daily life and be sure the basics are in place:

1. Do you have an established routine for your dog? Consistency can play a big role in a dog’s sense of security, especially if there has recently been a big change in their lives.
2. Is your dog’s diet suitable for his activity level and health needs? Things like food allergies can affect mood and behavior. If you switched foods or added something new to your dog’s diet around the time they began showing signs of depression, consider returning to the previous diet.
3. Is your dog getting enough exercise and attention from you? Getting up and moving can help the dog to reengage with his environment as well as stimulating his appetite. If your dog likes being groomed, take some extra time to brush him out. If there is a game or toy your dog has previously enjoyed, offer opportunities to play.
4. Does your dog have friends? If your dog is in a good place to socialize, it may be helpful to meet for a playdate with friends. A few words of caution here: If your dog actively avoids interacting or is showing signs of aggression (including just being unusually grumpy) and/or anxiety, this is not the right time for socialization. As an example, a dog who is depressed following the loss of a companion may be lonely and desperate for the company of familiar dogs. Meeting more often with friends may be just what they need to start feeling better. On the flip side, a dog who is depressed following a traumatic experience may feel uncomfortable and unsafe even around animals they know. This could put them in a situation where they lash out to protect themselves or cause them to retreat further. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you about what they need. If you’re feeling stuck, don’t hesitate to reach out to a vet or behaviorist for advice.
5. Training also can be a good way to promote engagement. If your dog is willing, take some time each day to go over simple commands you know they’ve mastered. Celebrate even small successes, whether their performance is up to their usual standard or not. Go ahead and add in some new tricks, games, or activities. Engage your dog’s mind.

The trick with all the options above is to not force your dog to engage. If he doesn’t want to play or shies away from the brush, put it away and try again tomorrow. While it can be difficult to have patience when you can clearly see your dog is struggling, it is important not to overwhelm them. The caveat to this is that depression is not a get-out-of-jail-free card. Continue to correct inappropriate behavior as you normally would. Calm consistency is key.

Medication as an Option for Canine Depression

In some cases, no amount of exercise, routine, and attention is enough to alleviate the condition.

With long-term exposure to stressors, or difficulty lifting the dog out of depression, additional support may be necessary. A variety of medications are available to address symptoms of depression and anxiety in dogs. If you think it might be time to go that route, talk to your vet about which medication might be appropriate for your dog and best fit your overall treatment strategy.

The primary goal when working with a dog suffering from depression is to stay patient, calm, and consistent. There is no immediate fix for emotions. Rather, it is a day-by-day process of ensuring your dog has what he needs to move through it. A good, established routine and some extra TLC can go a long way. Also, keeping your vet appraised of how your dog is doing is important for determining if further care is needed.

The post How to Tell If a Dog Is Depressed appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Many dogs will avoid eye contact, show white around their eyes (whale eye or side eye), or have dilated pupils. Ears pinned back tightly often indicate an anxious, uncomfortable dog.

Dog Turns Away

Often a stressed dog will turn his head or even his whole body away, likely hoping to avoid any confrontation. He may sniff to appear uninterested in a worrisome situation. His hair may loosen, so he suddenly “sheds” when you pet him in a stressful situation. The tail may be tucked tightly underneath and up against his body. He literally may be shaking or trembling.

The dog may pace, if possible. You may also notice:

• Barking
• Circling
• Compulsive licking at a limb creating a “lick sore”
• Cowering
• Destructive behavior like tearing up his bed or destroying household things
• Diarrhea
• Dilated pupils
• Excessive drooling
• Flattened ears
• Front paw lifting
• Head shaking
• Heavy panting
• House soiling
• Losing control of bladder or bowels
• Loss of appetite
• Low activity
• Nose licking
• Obsessively licking one spot
• Refusing to look directly at something
• Restlessness/pacing
• Scratching himself
• Shut down (withdrawn, unresponsive to stimuli and people)
• Shying away from/refusing to move toward something
• Trembling
• Vomiting bile
• Whining/vocalizing
• Withdrawal from family/less interactive
• Yawning (when obviously not sleepy)

How to Help a Stressed Dog

If you notice any signs of stress in your dog, remove him from what is causing the distress, if possible. That may mean walking away or doing a detour around a scary area. You must be his advocate and step between him and whatever is concerning him, whether it’s people, other animals, or a physical situation. Once he’s moved away and seems to be settling, let him look at the stressor.

Controlling your dog’s stress is a health measure because chronic stress can cause high blood pressure, gastroenteritis, weight loss, delayed healing of injuries, less resistance to infections, and sometimes to the development of obsessive-compulsive habits such as licking or chewing.

The post Reading Stressed Dog Body Language appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

The post Why Do Dogs Howl? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

If, in contrast, your dog normally has a good appetite, but suddenly stops eating his food, you should be concerned – and even more so if you dog has any other signs of illness, such as lethargy, panting, fever, signs of pain or discomfort, or diarrhea. In that case, get him to a vet! Any time our dogs change their normal behavior, there is likely something wrong that needs investigation. Ignoring early symptoms usually costs us, and our dogs.

Potential causes of a lack of appetite

There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat:

• Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.
• Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food.
• Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain.
• Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.
• If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Do not add flavor enhancers or human meal leftovers to tempt him into eating the food he rejected, because if it turns out that the food is dangerous, he may be harmed by eating it! Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem. If your dog eagerly accepts the new food, take the rejected food back to the store!
• Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.

Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.

If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.

The post Dog Sniffing Food But Not Eating appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

The sneeze as a social cue is different from a physiologic sneeze. When a dog sneezes due to an irritation in her nose, the sneeze is often forceful and may include nasal discharge or jerking of her head. By comparison, a social sneeze is small and delicate with no nasal discharge and very little head movement.

A dog sneezing during play with another dog is telling the other dog to tone down the energy level a notch or two. It’s her way of saying, “I’m enjoying this playtime with you but you’re getting a little too rambunctious for me right now. Take a minute to chill out and then we can continue playing.”

Dogs will also use a sneeze as a social cue with their humans. A social sneeze directed at humans is used to get their attention. It is usually followed by barking or even pawing at or pointing their nose at something they want.

Dogs who sneeze a lot – regardless of context – may have an underlying medical issue that is causing them to sneeze. Anything that causes irritation of the nose or throat can cause repeated sneezing or even a reverse sneeze. This can include allergens, foreign material in the nose, an infection, or (rarely) a tumor in the nose or throat.

If you are not sure if your dog’s sneeze is a social cue or is being caused by a medical issue, take a video of your dog sneezing and share it with her veterinarian. They may reassure you that the sneeze is not a concern or may recommend that you make an appointment for an examination.

Social sneezes are part of the communication repertoire that make our canine companions unique. It’s amazing how eloquent our dogs can be without words!

The post Why Dogs Sneeze When They Play appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

It’s understandable that dog owners would be interested in using music to facilitate calmness; it’s a zero-cost intervention that helps their dogs become the well-behaved companions they would like them to be! And there is evidence that some music does indeed help dogs relax. A 2002 study found that dogs appeared significantly less agitated after listening to selections of classical music. Their breathing slowed and they were less likely to pace around or remain standing. Researchers found that reggae and soft rock selections also had a calming effect on dogs.

In contrast, short, quick notes tended to increase a dog’s rapid motor movements. Even worse, heavy metal resulted in tremors and shaking – definitely not calming! Some variety is also important; dogs apparently tune out music that they hear all time, even the calming classical music; it loses its relaxing effect if it is too repetitous.

One important note, however: Not all classical music is soothing! Think of the rousing sounds of the William Tell Overture (which most of us older Americans know as the theme music of the Lone Ranger galloping across the prairie on his trusty white stallion). Be sure to look for calm, meditative music if you want to take advantage of the potential relaxation benefits on your dog’s behavior.

Find Your Dog’s Calming Music

So where can you find this magic calming music? Here are a few sources for relaxing dog music are:

• iCalmPet claims that its calming music downloads are “psychoacoustically designed to support your dog’s nervous system function.” We know, at the very least, they are relaxing for us to listen to!
• Spotify has a tool that allows you to create a pet playlist for your dog.
• Youtube has several sites that provide long hours of calming music. Here is a link to a 12-hour playlist from Relax My Dog.

Does Dog Calming Music Work

If you are a skeptic like me, you might be asking if calming music really works for dogs. The evidence from several studies certainly seems to support that conclusion. In one study, shelter dogs barked significantly less in their kennels when calming music was played. And I can tell you this personal story:

I had a client whose dog was anxiety-stressed to the max. This poor dog paced and panted nonstop for 90 minutes of our two-hour consult as we discussed and practiced protocols to reduce her anxiety. Then I turned on the iCalmDog player, and in less than a minute the dog laid down under the table with her head on her paws and her eyes closed, and stayed there for our remaining 30 minutes.

Will it help all dogs? Maybe not. But as I tell my clients all the time… can’t hurt, might help – and it’s well worth a try. Yours might well be one that it does help!

The post Do Dogs Like Music? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.