While there is not yet a scientific explanation for this behavior, there are theories.

“I am not aware of any scientific studies that have been done looking at why dogs do this, or how common it is,” says Dr. Melissa Bain, a veterinary behavior specialist and professor of clinical animal behavior at UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. “One thought is that it is an evolutionary behavior, in which a dog will mask its scent with feces. It generally is the feces of another animal, not of dogs. There is also a hypothesis that it may be scent marking. Instead of the thought that they are depositing the odor onto themselves, they are depositing their odor onto the feces to mark their territory.”

“Wolves and wild dogs used to roll in poop to mask their scent, which is useful when hiding from predators and sneaking up on prey,” agrees Dr. Ivana Crnec, of Veterinarians.org. “Modern dogs, despite evolving past the need to hide and hunt, are still true to their ancestral heritage.”

Dr. Crnec noted that rolling in poop and dead things is very common in dogs.

“Dogs roll in their own feces and poop from other animals like cowpats and fox poop,” she says. “Interestingly, rolling is not limited to poop. In fact, dogs enjoy rolling in all types of smelly, organic matter.”

What To Do About Dogs Who Roll in Poop

Dr. Bain says if dog owners witness poop rolling, there’s likely not much to be done.

“Likely there is not a whole lot to do in the moment aside from trying to get the dog away from the area by calling the dog away and rewarding [her] with a high-value treat,” says Dr. Bain. “However, that high-value treat may not be any better than the feces in which the dog is rolling. In that case, they should either ignore the dog [or] walk away.”

She says prevention is key to keeping dogs from rolling in poop.

“Keeping the dog on leash will almost always prevent these incidents,” she says. “This is especially important if you know that you are going to an area such as a barn. If the dog is rolling in things in their yard, they should be sure to keep the yard clean.”

She says it’s generally not harmful to a healthy dog, but there may be parasites or other infectious diseases in the feces that can be transmitted to the individual dog, other dogs, or people.

“This would be if [the] feces were to be ingested inadvertently,” she says. “It also can be stressful for some owners when they continually have to clean up the dog and the house, especially if the dog doesn’t like baths.”

Dogs Roll in Poop

However gross it may seem to humans, rolling in poop is pretty normal dog behavior.

Dr. Crnec says there is no determined pattern for dogs rolling in poop and the habit is seen in all breeds, ages, and genders.

“However, interestingly, regular rolling is more common in certain breeds such as Labrador and Golden Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels, Jack Russell Terriers, and mixed-breed dogs,” she says.

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No, it’s not because your dog is suddenly terrified of his food bowl, or that he’d rather have a blue bowl than a red one, or that he just likes to make a mess. However, even researchers and dog behaviorists can’t say with absolutely certainty why some dogs exhibit this carrying-food-to-another-place behavior. The best these experts can offer are theories about why some dogs prefer to eat their food somewhere other than their food bowl.

As with so many dog peculiarities like digging, or licking, or circling before lying down, there’s general agreement that part of the answer lies in the domestic dog’s wolf ancestry. When the pack made a kill, the parents would feed first, after which the juveniles would have to compete for the best pieces, then drag them away to avoid having to fight the rest of the pack for them. “Fighting is obviously very risky,” explains Dr. Julie Albright-Keck with the University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine, “so most animals, especially subordinate ones, will go to great lengths to avoid an altercation.”

A slightly different take comes from some experts who think that dogs who feel chronically vulnerable or who exhibit a lower social status could be more motivated to carry their food to a different place so no other dog can get to it—even if they’re the only dog in the home. Again, this could be related to the tendency among the dog’s wild ancestors for young or more passive members of the pack to grab their share of the kill, then take it somewhere else to guard it from competitors. “Even though a domestic dog may not be in danger when eating, it may be that instincts override everything else,” explains veterinary health expert Dr. Gary Richter.

This food-moving behavior doesn’t appear to be associated with specific breeds. While some studies show that smaller dogs do this more than larger dogs—many going so far as to carry their entire food bowl elsewhere—other experts have found that more wolf-like dogs such as Siberian Huskies, Malamutes, and Great Pyrenees also tend to take their food to other places to eat it.

Another theory is that some dogs may take their food to another place to eat it because of the desire for companionship. We know that wolves hunt and eat in a pack, and there’s a chance that your dog wants its “human pack” with him while he eats. “By nature, dogs are social creatures and the company can motivate them to eat,” says canine behavior expert and trainer Shelby Semel.

Dr. Liz Stelow of the University of California Davis School of Veterinary Medicine echoes this sentiment, explaining that the reason some dogs want companionship at mealtime may be because they receive an emotional reward for eating. “Some owners create a relationship with the dog around food,” she says, “especially if he has a history of being a picky eater.” Over time, the dog has come to expect—and enjoy—his caretaker’s verbal encouragement, possible hand-feeding, and general attention. This can lead to the dog feeling more rewarded by eating in the caretaker’s presence than alone.

Another possible reason your dog might be taking food from his bowl is the bowl itself. “If you’re feeding your dog from a metal bowl,“ explains Dr. Holly Ahlgrim, Urgent Care veterinarian at the Animal Medical Center of Seattle, ”it’s possible that the clinking sound created by food being pushed around, or a dangling collar tag, may be irritating or upsetting your dog. They may be chewing their food away from the bowl to avoid the sound.”

A related issue is the dog who, contrary to taking his food somewhere else to eat it, won’t let anyone near it. It’s a perfectly normal canine behavior to protect a food source, since in the wild, food protection behavior evolved to keep other dogs away from a meal. Even though in most cases the modern family dog doesn’t really need to protect his food from a scavenger, this behavior is innate, harkening back to the dog’s past as a wild animal. This is related to a behavior called caching, where an animal hides or buries a food resource to save it for the future.

But even in wolves, food guarding is less often actual aggression than it is a threat display. This can include growling, baring of teeth, or snapping and while this kind of behavior can be disturbing to us, it seldom results in a bite. In a study of 3,226 dogs, 41 percent of the dogs showed vocal behaviors towards humans during resource guarding, but only 15 percent escalated to biting, and of those, less than 10 percent caused an injury. Regardless, any time a dog exhibits this type of threat display, you need to be extremely careful in your approach to avoid being bitten. If you are at all uncertain of how to address this issue, consult with a qualified behaviorist.

One other strange behavior some dogs exhibit around food is covering the food bowl. Veterinary researcher Dr. Myrna Milani explains that most of the time, the dog that tries to hide their food—whether with a blanket, a pair of socks, or anything else they can find—is uncomfortable with something in their immediate environment that makes them not want to eat at that specific time or in that specific place. “If an animal doesn’t feel secure in its space it won’t eat, no matter how tempting the food you offer it,” she says.  Any number of things can spark that insecurity, including an unfamiliar human or other animal nearby, unusual activity in the home, or even a change in where the dog is being fed. If this behavior happens often, it’s worth doing some detective work to figure out what’s bugging your pup.

In the end, if your dog decides to transport his kibble to the living room to eat it, the worst case scenario is that you step on an errant pellet and have to clean it up. But other than that, there’s nothing to worry about: it’s perfectly normal, if a little exasperating, dog behavior!

The post Why Do Dogs Take Their Food to Different Places? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Maybe all of the above. You can rest assured they’re not doing it to drive you crazy or to exact revenge on you for skimping on their treats.

The Role of Genetics

Some dog breeds are genetically predisposed to digging.  In Dachshunds, for example, a key breed characteristic is digging to follow small prey into underground burrows and tunnels. This instinct is so strong that merely finding a disturbance in the soil can be enough to stimulate their prey drive, and thus inspire the digging behavior. The same is true for breeds like terriers, beagles, schnauzers, and even hounds. And of course, when those dogs end up discovering a tasty morsel like a grub after digging—or they actually encounter that elusive gopher, which in turn triggers a wild and gleeful chase—that digging behavior gets reinforced.

That being said, it’s important not to equate breed with behavior: although a dog’s breed can help us predict how likely a certain behavior is to occur, breed alone isn’t responsible for an individual dog’s disposition: in fact, breed accounts for less than ten percent of a dog’s overall behavior. Certified behaviorist Victoria Schade says that “a dog’s overall life experience is a better predictor of the way they’ll interact with the world around them than what their breed standards says.”

And yet, all dogs are “hard-wired” to dig: their ancient ancestors dug to locate or hide food, to find a place to give birth, to create dens to keep their pups safe and warm, to mark their territory, to find cooler ground to lie in on hot days. Even though many of these traits have no real purpose in our modern world, they’re so engrained in dog DNA that the behavior endures. As annoying or destructive as it may appear to us, in most cases digging is a perfectly rational, innate canine behavior.

In recognition of this, the AKC has even developed an Earthdog Test that measures how good a “digger” your dog really is in pursuing and finding rodents underground.

Other Reasons That Dogs Dig

Studies have clearly shown that not just a dog’s breed, but his personality, current environment, anxiety level, as well as earlier life experiences can have a profound effect on digging behavior. For instance, if you live in a place where summers are hot and your dog is a thick-coated Nordic breed like a Samoyed, Siberian Husky, or Malamute, you’re much more likely to see them digging a hole to get to the cooler ground below.

Aside from instinctual hunting impulses and the desire to regulate their body temperatures, there are other reasons why your dog might become a digging fool.

Hoarding. In their wolfish past, canines instinctively dug holes in order to stockpile food for lean times or for winter when food was scarce. This can be seen in today’s dogs, when even though their caretakers provide ample food, they may revert to this behavior by burying items like bones.

Escape. In most cases, escape routes involve digging under, jumping over, or even climbing up fences. These canine escape artists might want to reach another dog for play or mating, they might have been prodded by a child teasing them from the other side of the fence or another dog acting aggressively, they might want to socialize with humans at a neighborhood get-together (or, like my dog Frankie, simply hang around construction workers at a neighbor’s house because she thinks that being with people means it’s a party), they might have been frightened by something in the yard, or they may simply want to explore.

Attention-seeking. It may seem counter-intuitive, but some dogs dig holes in order to get their caretaker’s attention. It doesn’t matter if the human’s reaction is negative, because for the dog, simply having the attention of their caretaker is enough. Certified animal behaviorist Maddie Messina explains it this way: “If digging earns them attention from their human companions, dogs may continue the behavior as a means of seeking interaction. There’s nothing more rewarding to a social animal like a dog as their human giving them attention, so if a dog learns this works for them, the unwanted behavior will be reinforced.” And it will continue.

Lack of space or exercise. Animal researcher Dr. Johannes Odendaal makes the point that large and active dogs kept in a small back yard often suffer from insufficient exercise due to lack of space. Unless their caretaker takes pains to walk them frequently, digging can become their way of exercising.

Anxiety or boredom. Some types of dog behaviors have boredom or stress as an underlying cause; digging becomes just another way for them to cope with tedium, extreme energy, or emotions. Research shows that separation anxiety in particular can cause many destructive behaviors, including compulsive digging. For instance, if a dog with separation anxiety is confined in a yard while their caretaker is away, it may start digging, explains veterinarian Dr. Stacy Johnson. “These dogs may incessantly dig—even to the point of injury—to reunite with their owner.” A dog that’s highly motivated to do something but is physically unable to do it may start digging in frustration: an example would be a dog that feels territorial aggression toward another dog, but is prevented from acting on that territoriality because it’s behind a fence.

Play. We know from interacting with our dogs that their mouths and front legs are the main sources of their kinetic energy: they play tug-of-war, carry around toys, wave their legs in the air when they get a belly-rub, and use their feet to paw at us. It makes perfect sense that if they’re looking for a way to entertain themselves, they’ll chew on an object or dig holes. (Or dig a hole and bury their treasure in it!) We humans may see it as destructive behavior, but for the dog it’s probably just a form of play.

To scent-mark. Observational studies show that dogs often dig at or scratch the ground after urination or defecation, which can deposit scent from the urine or feces as well as from the scent glands on their feet. In addition, some researchers believe that the ground disturbance may act as a visual cue to other animals. However, at this point these theories are very speculative, since the behavior hasn’t been formally researched enough to arrive at unequivocal conclusions. “Stand by for more discussions of why dogs ground scratch,” says ethologist Dr. Mark Bekoff, author of The Emotional Lives of Animals. “There still is much to learn, and it’s clear that there is much more going on than meets our eye.”

When Digging Becomes a Problem

If your dog is being truly destructive in his digging, one strategy is to redirect and reward him for digging in a designated digging spot. That might be something like a corner of the yard, a sandpit or sand pile, or even a kiddie pool containing either sand or scraps of old fabric and toys.

If the behavior appears to be extremely repetitive or compulsive and the dog is in genuine distress, you need to get professional veterinary advice so she can be properly diagnosed and treated.

As for training your dog not to dig, that can be problematic at best. First, you need to determine what’s at the root of his problem digging. Is it boredom? Lack of exercise? Frustration? Aggression? Is he just having fun? Or is there something more serious going on that needs veterinary consultation? Each one of these causes requires a different approach and, unfortunately, the reality is that no matter what you do, you’ll probably be unsuccessful in your efforts to make him stop, since digging is as natural to him as eating.

But no matter what the underlying reason is for your dog’s digging proclivities, chances are that you may have to simply grin and bear it and recognize that she’s just being a dog.

The post Why Do Dogs Dig? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Classic signs of the Flehmen response are:

• Curled-back and raised upper lip, often with wrinkles near the nostrils
• Raised head
• Exposed teeth, possibly with chattering
• Open mouth

However, you may not always notice the Flehmen response in a dog.

Horses are widely believed to have the obvious Flehmen response with a marked raised upper lip, wrinkled nostrils, and a raised head. In dogs, says a study published in 2022 in Animals, it’s not as easy to identify:  “The typical Flehmen reflex is not observed in dogs and cats because their upper lips are too rigid and firmly fixed via the frenulum to permit this type of movement. These animal species exhibit different attitudes of behavior, namely they assume a position with an upright head and neck, which they stretch forward for a short time.”  In dogs, say the researchers, there often is a rapid retraction of the tongue that likely aids in the perception of pheromones.

This doesn’t mean dogs don’t do the Flehmen response (they do, read on). It just means it isn’t always obvious to an onlooker.

Jacobson’s Organ in Dogs

The open-mouth part of the Flehmen response allows Jacobson’s organ to be maximally involved. Jacobson’s organ, also known as the vomeronasal organ, consists of sensory cells in the front of the nasal cavity, just behind the incisors (the little teeth in front between the long canines, or fangs). Danish physician Ludwig Levin Jacobson identified Jacobson’s organ in 1813.

Jacobson’s organ detects nearly seemingly scentless things like pheromones. If pheromones are detected, the organ sends the information to what some experts call a “secondary olfactory organ” in the brain to trigger the mating instinct. Australian scholar Michael Stoddard published a paper in Nature (2000) that called the organ a “sixth sense.”

Dog’s Amazing Ability to Detect a Scent

It is possible that a dog who is panting more out of interest or excitement rather than fatigue may be using that open-mouth, tongue-out posture to bring more air past Jacobson’s organ to help identify a smell. Experts continue to be amazed at what dogs can find by smell. A dog’s ability to detect a scent is said to be 10,000 to 100,000 times that of a human, according to a 2018 research study published in Frontiers in Veterinary Science.

Recent studies show that dogs can detect not only specific scents of drugs or explosives, but dogs can also note changes in emotions and human cell metabolism during various illnesses, including COVID-19 infection. And, of course, dogs are critical in the search for a missing person.

It’s interesting to note that scent work is a fast-growing sport. Both humans and dogs appear to be enjoying doing nose work (or scent work) competitions. Noting and tracking a scent is like reading a newspaper to dogs—it’s information. That love of smelling things is one of the many reasons experts encourage us to allow our dogs to sniff about when we’re on walks.

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A positive cat-dog relationship begins with how you introduce a cat to a dog; you don’t want to just cross your fingers! Even if you know your dogs are good with cats and this cat has lived happily with dogs in the past, the more carefully you arrange the introduction the more likely you are to set up your four-legged family members for success. Thoughtful social engineering will support your cat’s sense of safety and confidence as well as your dog’s calm acceptance of your new family member.

Here’s a cat/dog introduction protocol designed to keep all parties feeling (and in reality) safe:

1. Choose a room in your home that can be securely closed to be your cat’s initial dog-free safe zone. Set up the cat’s food, water, litter box, and bed in the room. When you first bring the cat home, you will bring the cat in her carrier directly to that room.

It’s might take a while to give your cat whole-house freedom, but go ahead and prepare for that day by creating more cat-safe spaces in your home, including plenty of elevated cat-friendly surfaces, an accessible but tall cat tree, and doorways that are equipped with pet gates. While most cats can jump over pet gates, the best gates have cat-doors built into them that are too small for a dog but allow cats to run right through to safety. See “Types of Dog Gates” to learn about your many options!

2. Confine your dogs to a different room – preferably a room away from the path you will travel to the cat’s room – while you bring the cat in to the house.
3. Bring your cat (in her carrier) to her private room and close the door securely. Plan to keep her in this room for several days – or longer if she shows you that she needs more time. This gives her cortisol levels, heightened by the stress of a trip to a new home, a chance to settle down to normal, and gives the cat some time to acclimate to her new surroundings while also strengthening your relationship with her. Plus, it allows her to become accustomed to the scents and sounds of the dogs (outside her closed door) and gives you the opportunity to note her reaction to them.

Be sure to spend time quietly hanging out with your cat in her secure room.

2. If after a few days, your cat seems confident and curious, eager to explore beyond her safe room, it’s time to introduce her to your dog in a highly controlled environment – but one that doesn’t feel restrictive or trap-like. In a large room, set up an exercise pen against a wall (this will ensure that there is a “safe side” of the pen where she can get some distance away from your dog). Put a solid or covered dog-sized carrier in the pen near the wall to give her a safe place for her to hide in the pen and cover the pen with a blanket so she can’t jump out. Place a generous handful of yummy cat treats and your cat in the pen and give her some time to explore this space. The pen will allow her to approach your dog from safety, and give her a secure retreat if she feels she needs it, without being able to run (potentially triggering a chase instinct in your dog) or hide indefinitely (which could frustrate and hinder your ability to supervise and control the next meet-and-greet attempt).
3. When she has had a few minutes to investigate the pen, bring your leashed dog into the room with the pen. If you have multiple dogs, bring out the calmest, most cat-friendly one. Walk the dog slowly on leash toward the pen, watching both the cat’s and the dog’s reactions. If both seem totally calm, walk up to the pen and let them sniff. If both continue to be very calm and accepting of each other, let them hang out for a while through the barrier, then open the pen and let them be friends. You just won the cat-dog introduction lottery!
4. If your cat is scared or just seems worried or the dog seems aroused, keep them a good distance apart (so stress doesn’t escalate) and sit on the floor or a chair with your dog. Feed high-value treats to your dog so he learns that the presence of the cat will cause treats to appear. He will eventually look to you for treats when the cat is present, rather than getting aroused. This is called “counter conditioning and desensitization” – giving your dog a new association with an arousing or fear-causing stimulus. Feed him a treat and then let him look at the cat, and repeat this again and again until he only glances at the cat and then quickly looks at you – or doesn’t even look at the cat at all. Now you can move closer – assuming the cat is calm, too!

If the cat is worried, a second person can drop bits of high-value kitty treats into the cat pen one at a time (this will provide counter conditioning for the cat!). This could go quickly if dog and cat are both accustomed to and comfortable and appropriate with the other species. If that’s not the case, it could take a long time.

Repeat this process with any other dogs in your household, one dog at a time.

7. When your dog can remain calm and relaxed around your penned cat, with Dog #1 still on leash, open the door to the pen and invite the cat out. Do not coerce her to come out; let it be her choice. Use counter conditioning as needed to keep your dog calm while the cat walks around.

If this goes well, swap Dog #1 out for Dog #2 and so on, until all the dogs have individually interacted appropriately with the cat out of the pen. Then, try it again with a single dog and with the dog off leash (but wearing a collar so you can restrain him if necessary).

When your cat is comfortable with each dog off-leash individually, try it with two dogs, then three, until the whole family can happily hang out together. Keep those pet gates and cat trees in place, however, so the cat always has safe dog-free spaces to retreat to if she feels the need.

Management of Introducing a Cat to a Dog

Every good training and behavior program incorporates management to ensure success. With your dog(s) and cat, this means keeping them safely separated when you are not there to supervise, until you are 100% confident that they will all get along. I also recommend maintaining one room as the cat’s room (with one of those cat-door pet gates), where you continue to keep her food, bed, and litter box so she has a safe canine-free haven anytime she wants to get away from the dogs – and so your dogs don’t eat the cat food and cat poop, which dogs are very likely to do.

This seven-step process can seem cumbersome, but cat-friendly dogs and dog-savvy cats may be able to whip through it in just a day or two. Take as long as you need, however. It’s better to err on the side of caution than increase tension between your two species and sabotage your program by moving too quickly. As we like to say in behavior modification, “If you think you’re going too slow, slow down!”

If you’ve done everything described above and you are still seeing cat/dog tension, it may be time to seek the services of a qualified force-free dog-training professional. Be sure to find one who is experienced with both dogs and cats for the best results.

By the way, it is also a myth that there are “cat people” and “dog people.” There are plenty of us who love, appreciate, and share our homes with both species. And it is perfectly possible that they can all get along.

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Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

The post Why Do Dogs Howl? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Signs of Heat in Dogs

When female dogs have a bloody vaginal discharge, they are considered “in heat” or “in season.” This is not a dog having a period. Signs of heat in female dogs include:

• Swelling of the vulva
• Bleeding from the vulva
• Excessively licking the vulva
• Possibly, tail tucked down tight

Dogs in heat may seem clingier than usual. Smaller dogs usually have their first heat around 6 to 7 months of age. Larger breeds often start a little later. Dogs usually come into heat twice a year, or every six months or so. The time to breed a dog is about one to three weeks after the bleeding starts (see stages, below).

Dog Heat Cycle Stages

There are four stages to a heat cycle:

• Proestrus, which is when the bleeding starts, lasts one to three weeks, this is when inexperienced owners may start wondering if dogs have a period.
• Estrus, which is when the dog is fertile and can be bred, the bleeding may slow or even stop and the female dog will be receptive to male attention, lasts one to three weeks
• Diestrus, which is not a fertile time, if the dog is not pregnant it’s a quiet time in the cycle
• Anestrous, which is the rebuilding time for the reproductive tract before the next heat cycle begins, lasts about four months

A dog’s heat cycle stages are not the same thing as a dog having a period. It signals the start of fertility for a female dog, and not the end of the cycle. If you’ve found yourself wondering if dogs have a period because your dog has started bleeding then you’ll need to take some precautions to avoid an unwanted pregnancy.

Avoid Unwanted Puppies

If your female dog goes into heat and you do not want her to get pregnant, keep close tabs on her. Never go outside without her on a leash, and be on the lookout for wandering, unattended male dogs when you do go outside. Watch her closely when she is outside in your fenced yard, too, as male dogs will jump fences to get to a female in heat. Help her keep her perivulvar area clean and dry. It’s OK to use diapers to limit the mess but change them frequently.

If you do not have plans to breed your female dog, consider having her spayed. This is the best way to avoid unwanted pregnancy and to prevent uterine and ovarian problems. And it will make your life a lot  easier, at least twice a year. Note: Dogs do sometimes have false pregnancies.

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We suspect there are a lot of reasons why dogs roll and, while behaviorists are amazing scientists, the dogs aren’t talking. One thing we know for sure – because dogs tell us with their body language and the above study says they saw it most during play – is that rolling feels good!

Dogs My Roll Because of Itchy Skin

Some dogs do roll because they’re trying to scratch an itch they can’t reach any other way. This is perfectly normal. The one thing we know for sure – because they tell us with their body language and facial expressions – is that it feels good to them, especially rolling in grass.

Excessive scratching, however, especially to the point of damaging the hair or the skin, could be a sign of a problem, such as fleas, ticks, parasites, pain, or an allergy. If that is the case, veterinary help is necessary.

Dog Roll to Hide Their Scent

Animal experts believe another cause of rolling goes back millions of years – to when dogs were wild and had to hunt for food. They roll in a scent other than their own to hide their own scent, so their prey won’t smell them as they approach.

And usually the smellier it is, the better it is. Other animals’ urine or feces, or even a dead animal, are best for the job of masking.

We know that dogs smell in layers, unlike humans. For instance, when we find a rose that smells like a skunk sprayed it, we only smell the skunk spray. But a dog smells the skunk spray and the rose.

Similarly, a dog can smell a tree that two or more dogs have marked with urine and identify those dogs. And when you see your dog sniffing the breeze, he’s identifying scents familiar and foreign, and dogs have an uncanny ability to smell things, which is one of the reasons they are such an asset in criminal investigations. Dogs enjoy scent, which may be one of the reasons scent games are increasing.

The post Why Do Dogs Roll on Their Backs? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Genetic health testing is one of the newest additions to this booming industry.

While most owners are familiar with genetic tests to determine the ancestry of mixed-breed dogs, many are not aware that a number of companies have expanded into testing for genetic health disorders. The companies typically advertise these tests as having the potential to both save money and heartache by giving owners an opportunity to prevent or detect diseases in their earliest stages, in order to add health-filled years to our beloved canine companions’ lives. But is this rosy promise even possible?

Early Days

The simplest answer is yes, but…

A large and ever-growing number of inherited genetic disease mutations are currently known to exist in dogs and research in this emerging field continues. In a 2016 study published in PLOS One, researchers tested 7,000 dogs representing 230 breeds for 93 disease-associated variants, using a custom-designed genotyping microarray (the MyDogDNA panel test). This research revealed 15 previously undocumented risk variants in 34 breeds, bolstering the case for genetic health screening as an increasingly powerful preventative veterinary medical tool.

It is no surprise, then, that laboratories marketing direct-to-consumer genetic health testing products are popping up around the globe. However, the study’s authors noted, “Careful follow-up studies of any unexpected discoveries are essential to establish genotype-phenotype correlations, as is readiness to provide genetic counseling on their implications for the dog and its breed.” (The correlation between genotype and phenotype is a statistical relationship that predicts a physical trait or abnormality in an individual with a given mutation or a group of similar mutations.)

In a cautionary commentary published in the journal Nature in July 2018, several researchers raised important issues regarding the false hope companies are selling through genetic testing for dogs at this point in time. In this paper, it’s pointed out that no regulating body oversees this testing. In the United States, for example, the FDA plays no role in overseeing how these tests are performed, how results are validated, or the best protocol for conveying this complicated data to consumers.

This lack of oversight proved problematic for 23andMe, a human version of genetic health testing. In 2013, the FDA ordered the company to stop selling these tests, citing concerns that people might take drastic medical measures on the basis of their results or seek unnecessary treatment based on false positives. Regulators demanded evidence of the tests’ accuracy and that consumers were well-informed as to the meaning and usefulness of their results.

Alberto Gutierrez, director of the FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health, said in a letter to the company, “FDA is concerned about the public health consequences of inaccurate results” from the Personal Genome Service (PGS), which is what 23andMe calls its test. Some of the intended uses of PGS were “particularly concerning,” the letter continued, because of the potential health risks that could come from a false positive or false negative. “Assessments for drug responses carry the risks that patients relying on such tests may begin to self-manage their treatments through dose changes or even abandon certain therapies depending on the outcome of the assessment,” Gutierrez wrote.

While 23andMe was cleared to resume selling their product, albeit under increased regulatory scrutiny, how successful these measures have been in accurately setting consumer expectations still remains to be seen.

Ironically, the website of Embark, one of the most popular companies offering direct-to-consumer genetic health testing for dogs, includes an enthusiastic customer quote exclaiming: “It’s the 23andMe for dogs!”

Yes it is. Promises, pitfalls, and all.

Experts Advise: Owners Use Caution

Just as the FDA recognized with its human counterpart, “pet genetics needs to be reined in,” according to Jessica Heckman, a veterinarian and postdoctoral associate at the Broad Institute of MIT and Harvard, where she studies the genetics of dog behavior. She recently wrote a piece published in Undark Magazine, saying: “If not [reined in], some companies will continue to profit by selling potentially misleading and often inaccurate information; pets and their owners will suffer needlessly; and opportunities to improve pet health and even to leverage studies in dogs and cats to benefit human health might be lost.”

Discussing genetic health testing further with Dr. Heckman, she encourages consumers to explore what they want the information for and what they plan to do with it prior to investing in it. She explains: “I believe there is a bright future for genetic health testing of dogs, but we just aren’t there yet. Before we can trust these tests, the industry will have to start working harder to validate them, and until that happens, I don’t recommend that important decisions be based on them.”

Screening dogs for genetic disorders has strong potential to guide diagnosis, treatment, and breeding, but since the science and technology are currently in its nascence, too many questions remain. For starters, veterinary healthcare practitioners are left to decide when it’s valuable to screen a dog for all known genetic disorders or restrict screening to disorders recognized for a dog’s particular breed. Then, there are myriad problems that arise in the interpretation of these data.

This dilemma gets increasingly muddied when a veterinarian lacks the necessary training in genetics to make the best decision for/with a patient/client and even more so when non-scientist consumers, who are being marketed to directly by companies, are making these choices based on limited or no knowledge whatsoever. Too often, consumers are left to interpret complicated genetic health data, again based on emerging science, on their own. While many of the direct-to-consumer genetics health tests services provide some form of guidance on the results for customers, it is not the kind of in-depth genetic counseling even a highly educated dog owner requires to be able to effectively integrate these data into the veterinary care of their four-legged friend.

As just one (albeit extreme) example of what can go wrong when less-than-certain results are given to an owner with little or no guidance or counseling, the authors of the Nature article shared the story of a 13-year-old Pug who started having trouble walking and controlling her bladder and bowels.

Then a DNA test revealed (among other things) a mutation that can – but does not always – indicate that its carrier will develop degenerative myelopathy (DM). The owners made the decision to euthanize the dog – perhaps convinced the Pug would die slowly and painfully. Sadly, the mutation for DM is far from perfectly predictive; the mutation does not guarantee a dog has the disease. It’s entirely possible that the Pug’s condition could have been successfully treated.

Mud-Free Zones?

The least muddy areas, it would seem, are genetic screens for disorders recognized for a dog’s particular breed or predominant breed if the dog is a mix. Take, for example, the Multi-Drug Resistance Gene (MDR), which codes for a protein that is responsible for protecting the brain by transporting potentially harmful chemicals away. It is currently known to affect 10 herding breeds, two sighthound breeds, and herding-breed mixed dogs.

In these dogs, an MDR1 mutation causes sensitivity to Ivermectin, Imodium, and a growing list of commonly administered drugs. Dogs that are heterozygous, or have one copy of the gene mutation, can still have a negative reaction to these drugs, but typically at higher doses. Dogs that are homozygous, carrying two copies of the mutation, experience buildup of toxins that results in neurological symptoms, such as seizures, ataxia, or even death.

Since this mutation is most concentrated in Collies, with as many as 70 percent affected, when I added a smooth-coated Collie to my crew a few years back, I became keenly aware of this issue and had him tested through Washington State University’s Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology Laboratory.

Turns out he’s heterozygous at MDR1 and as a result, I stay up to date on the list of drugs to steer clear of and remind my vet of his status whenever we discuss treatment options for him to be sure both of us are keeping a lookout for his best health.

Popular Direct-to-Consumer Genetic Health Testing Services

Embark

Embark uses a proprietary SNP-chip (single nucleotide polymorphism) that evaluates 200,000 locations across your dog’s genome, allowing for comprehensive results on disease risks and traits, testing for over 160 mutations associated with genetic diseases from DNA acquired through a cheek swab. The company works directly with consumers and in partnership with veterinarians.

The Good: Each mutation is queried two to eight times and examined by a team of geneticists and veterinarians to ensure accuracy. As a research partner of the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, Embark is committed to the continued development of the emerging science of genetic health information and shares updated information with consumers as it becomes available.

The Questionable: The mapping of genetic variants to the risk of disease is incredibly challenging and currently based on a nascent science with a lot of noise in the interpretation of the data. As a result, when a dog tests positive for a health risk mutation, owners need to receive these data with skepticism and discuss these results with their veterinarian. While Embark communicates this, it takes a lot of digging to find. The upfront marketing by all of the companies providing this service, lends the impression that their results are much stronger than they actually are.

Wisdom Panel

The health panel offered through Wisdom looks for 3,000 genetic markers, incorporating the MyDogDNA test from Genoscoper Laboratories of Finland. Their mail-in cheek swab tests for breed identification while also screening for the mutations associated with multidrug sensitivity and exercise-induced collapse.

Blood tests that provide breed identification and screening for more than 140 mutations and markers associated with various disorders are available through Banfield Pet Hospital, a Mars Petcare subsidiary, and through veterinarians who offer a test from Royal Canin, another Mars Petcare subsidiary.

The Good: The tests for MDR1 are licensed through Washington State University (WSU), which is the only entity licensed to perform stand-alone MDR1 genotyping in the United States. According to WSU: “Unless testing is conducted by Washington State University’s Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology Laboratory or its licensee Wisdom Health, Washington State University cannot control quality and accuracy of results. Consumers may risk receiving inaccurate results.”

This is particularly important because three different mutations have been associated with this deleterious phenotype, but many genetic-testing companies indicate that they may test for only one. “Thus, a dog declared ‘clear’ for a given gene might still harbor other known, clinically relevant mutations in that gene that the company has not tested for,” according to the paper published in Nature.

The Questionable: If an owner chooses to seek more genetic health information via the blood test route, the testing is guided by a veterinarian at Banfield, a Mars Petcare subsidiary. The blood is then sent to be analyzed by Wisdom, a Mars Petcare subsidiary, and the results interpreted for you by that veterinarian at a hospital owned by Banfield – again, a Mars Petcare subsidiary. This represents a possible conflict of interest.

The authors of the paper in Nature highlight the problems that could arise, given the lack of regulation in the industry, saying: “If the test comes back positive, the clinic’s vet might recommend preventive steps, such as specific pet foods (made by the same company), periodic screening tests (performed by the company’s clinical lab), and more-frequent exams (performed at the company’s vet clinics), even though there may be low or no risk of disease in the first place.”

Vet Programs That Offer Genetic Tests for Dogs

Reputable genetics health tests are offered through a variety of veterinary programs,
offering in-depth consulting from experts in veterinary genetics. However, the tests
offered are breed and disease specific, limiting their usefulness to a subset of dog
owners. Note: This is not intended to be an exhaustive list, but were the most often
referenced by veterinarians consulted about genetics laboratories they trusted and
utilized most often.

What’s A Concerned Owner to Do?

Figuring out where to get good, reliable genetic health information and how to get the most accurate interpretation of the results that is currently available requires a bit of digging, a fair amount of skepticism, and a willingness to ask questions.

While arguably much of the onus is on science and industry to deliver clear and accurate genetic information to the public, as consumers it is our job to be skeptics and demand products of the highest caliber from companies. We need strong data that we can understand, evaluate, and utilize effectively. That may seem like a tall order, but where the health of my dogs is concerned, I refuse to settle for less.

In May 2017, recognizing the increasing numbers of new DNA tests and testing laboratories and the challenge of choosing the best versions of these tests, the International Partnership for Dogs (IPFD) launched an open-access database, the “Harmonization of Genetic Testing for Dogs“. The goal is to make accessing detailed, breed-specific information on genetic traits, including original research and mutation information, less time-consuming and difficult. The new database:

• Catalogs available genetic tests for hundreds of dog breeds and varieties.
• Helps consumers make informed choices when buying DNA tests by describing the expertise, quality-assurance activities, and resources of the providers of genetic tests.
• Describes clinical and genetic information on individual genetic tests and their use.
• Provides information on the original science and research behind genetic tests.
• Includes basic guides for consumers on types of tests as well as testing information to aid veterinary professionals in advising clients.

The database is overseen by a multiple-stakeholder steering committee with funding for the prototype of this online resource provided by IPFD Founding Partners, the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, and the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation.

The resource is still in an early prototype stage, however, so consumers are left to wait and see how useful it ultimately becomes.

Genetic health information is an incredibly promising emerging field grounded in a science that is rapidly developing. As the authors of the commentary in Nature aptly stated: “Done right, the use of genetic testing in companion animals could be a powerful way to better connect people to the possibilities of genetics for treating disease. Done wrong, it could erode trust in science for an increasingly skeptical public.”

GENETIC TESTING FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Genetic health testing is an emerging field. The tests that have been around the longest, such as the multi-drug resistance genetic test (MDR1), tend to be the most reliable.

2. If your dog’s results contain a mutation that suggest the potential for development of a specific disease, contact the company and ask for additional interpretation and guidance about the relative risks indicated, and discuss this with your veterinarian.

Citations

1. Donner J, Kaukonen M, Anderson H, Möller F, Kyöstilä K, Sankari S, et al. (2016)
“Genetic Panel Screening of Nearly 100 Mutations Reveals New Insights into the
Breed Distribution of Risk Variants for Canine Hereditary Disorders.” PLOS ONE
11(8): e0161005.
2. Zierath S, Hughes AM, Fretwell N, Dibley M, Ekenstedt KJ. “Frequency of
five disease-causing genetic mutations in a large mixed-breed dog population
(2011-2012).” Wade C, ed. PLOS ONE. 2017;12(11):e0188543.
3. Moses L, Niemi S, and Karlsson E. “Pet genomics medicine runs wild.” Nature,
July 25, 2018.

Kathryn Socie-Dunning lives in Montana with her husband, their newborn baby boy, and three dogs.

The post Genetic Health Screening for Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

To purchase Dog Smart or any other of Case’s books, click here.

Just recently, during my school’s beginner class orientation, a new student asked this:

“My neighbor Joe (who knows a lot about dogs), told me that because wolves are the ancestors of dogs, we should train dogs according to how wolves behave in packs. He told me that I need to be ‘alpha’ and that my dog must recognize my dominant status during training. Will we be making sure that my dog Muffin (a Mini-Doodle) knows that I am dominant?”

And I think, “Here we go again.”

The problem with this rationale – the dog’s primary wild ancestor is the wolf; therefore we should base our training practices on what is known about wolf behavior – is that, like many folklores, it contains elements of truth plus a slew of falsehoods and mythologies.

How do you answer in one minute or less to a skeptical student, friend, or neighbor (Joe)?

The best way is to arm yourself with facts and then condense those facts into a short and easily understandable response. In this chapter, we review current knowledge regarding the dog’s ancestry, domestication and basic social behavior. Then, I will provide you with a few “Talking to Joe” responses that you can use in your classes, when teaching seminars, talking to other dog owners, and, of course, when attempting to convince neighbor Joe (who may need a lot of convincing).

© Lochstampfer | Dreamstime.com

It’s All Greek (er, Latin) to Me

Let’s start with the dog’s taxonomy, which is the hierarchical system that we use to classify animals. Although this information may seem somewhat academic, it is important for trainers to know the dog’s taxonomy because it allows us to see just how closely related the dog is to the wolf and other canid species. The broadest classification groups are domain and kingdom, followed by the increasingly narrow groups of phylum, class, order, family, genus, and species. The genus and species Latin names are how we typically identify animals, including the dog.

The domestic dog is classified within the “phylum” Animalia, the “class” Mammalia, and the “order” Carnivora. Carnivora includes 17 families and about 250 different species.

Carnivores are so named because of a set of enlarged teeth (the carnassials) that comprise the enlarged upper fourth premolar and the lower first molar on each side of the mouth. Take a moment to open your dog’s mouth and take a look at those teeth. If you live with anything larger than a Chihuahua, you will notice that these are some mighty big chompers.

If you brush your dog’s teeth regularly, you are already familiar with the carnassials because they present the flattest and largest tooth surface that you run your brush across – and are also a popular spot for plaque and calculus to deposit. All of the species that are classified with dogs in this order have these impressive teeth, which are adapted for shearing and tearing prey.

Carnivores also have small, sharp incisors at the front of the mouth for holding and dissecting prey. These are the teeth that Muffin uses to de-fluff her new stuffed squeaky toy.

The four elongated canine teeth evolved for both predation and defense.

Interestingly, despite these dental modifications, not all of the present-day species that are found in Carnivora are strict carnivores. Some, such as bears and raccoons, are omnivorous and at least one species, the panda, is primarily vegetarian.

“Families” are groups within the orders, with dogs found in the family Canidae and in the “genus” Canis. Other canids within the Canidae family are wolves (two species), coyotes (one species), and foxes (five species).

The wolf and the dog hang together taxonomically all the way down through genus and only separate when classified as separate species; wolves are Canis lupus and dogs are Canis familiaris. (Note: There is still a bit of disagreement about this among scientists. Some argue that dogs should be classified as a sub-species of wolf: Canis lupus familiaris. There is no consensus about this and you may see dogs classified both ways.)

Cousin, Not Ancestor

So, this is where you can start with your answer to Joe: Dogs and present-day wolves are different species within the same genus. The Latin name for the domestic dog is Canis familiaris and the present-day Gray wolf is Canis lupus.

To which, Joe replies: “Yeah, but the wolf is the dog’s ancestor, right?” This is one of those pesky partial truths. The domestic dog and today’s Gray wolf share a common ancestor, a type of wolf that lived at least 45,000 years ago and has since gone extinct. Much in the same way that the chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes) is the closest living relative to present-day humans (Homo sapiens), we do not (and should not) refer to the chimpanzee as our ancestor. This is incorrect. Just as we share a common ancestor with present-day great apes, dogs share a common ancestor with today’s wolves.

Man’s Oldest Best Friend

However closely dogs may be related to wolves from an evolutionary perspective, they are different in many important ways. The first distinction is that dogs, unlike wolves, are a domesticated species. They are in fact, the first animal that humans domesticated. We were hanging out with dogs several thousand years before we began tending to chickens, goats, pigs, or cows, and even well before cats were living with us (who, by the way, maintain that this arrangement was entirely their decision, not ours).

Scientists still do not concur about the exact timing, place, or circumstances surrounding the creation of dog, but there are several general facts with which most currently agree:

• Domestication, the process by which the ancestral wolf was gradually transformed into the dog, took place sometime between 32,000 and 18,000 years ago.
• The most recent evidence suggests that the dog was domesticated more than once, from two different and geographically separated (now extinct) wolf populations that were living on opposite sides of the Eurasian continent. Over time, these two groups of proto-dogs migrated with humans and intermingled.
• Domestication began during a time when people were still living a nomadic lifestyle, periodically moving their camps from place to place. Our more settled way of life did not become established until 12,000 years ago with the invention of agriculture.
• The early stages of domestication of the dog appear to have been unintentional. As wild wolves identified a new ecological niche – the food scraps and garbage that were associated with human campsites – they began to follow human camps and to live on the periphery of temporary settlements to scavenge food.
• The selective pressures on these camp-dwelling wolves favored less timid individuals who had a higher tolerance of humans. Less fearful individuals would experience increased opportunities to feed and reproduce because they stayed longer and fled less readily than more timid animals. These new sub-populations of wolves were also feeding themselves more through scavenging and less through hunting (predation).
• Over generations, selective pressures led to a proto-dog who was naturally tolerant of human presence and began to live permanently near human camps and settlements. This evolving dog was smaller, had a shorter snout, wider skull, and smaller teeth compared with wolves.

Pack Behavior?

Changes also occurred in the wolf’s social behavior during domestication. As early dogs began to live permanently as camp scavengers, the selective pressure for social hierarchies and strict pack order was relaxed as pack hunting behaviors were no longer needed and were replaced by semi-solitary or group scavenging behaviors. Scavengers became more tolerant of the presence of other dogs and the presence of protected nesting sites also reduced the need for cooperative raising of young.

It is theorized that during this branching of the dog and wolf’s evolutionary tree, the wild version of wolf remained a pack-living predator, while the evolving dog became specialized in adaptations for living in close proximity to humans. Dogs also evolved a set of social behaviors that enhanced their ability to communicate and cooperate with human caretakers. It is from these semi-domestic scavenger populations that individual dogs are believed to have been selected and purposefully bred by humans for further taming. Eventually (many generations later), selective breeding of these dogs led to the development of different types of working dogs and, most recently, the creation of purebred breeds.

Origins of the Dominance Myth

Given this current understanding of the dog’s domestication, why is it that Joe and his friends continue to believe that pack order and dominance hierarchies are so important to dogs and should be used in dog training? For this explanation, we have to look more to recent history, going back only about 45 years.

During the 1970s, researchers who were studying wolf behavior focused almost exclusively on a theory called the “hierarchal model of pack behavior.” This theory proposes that individuals within a wolf pack are highly concerned with social status and live in a constant struggle for dominance with one another. Because of the dog’s close evolutionary relationship to the wolf, it was assumed that dogs would behave similarly.

It became popular to view dogs as pack-living animals who adhered to strictly structured dominance hierarchies – both with their human owners and with other dogs.

As a result of this highly popularized (but incorrect) concept, almost any behavior that a dog offered that was not in compliance with an owner’s wishes came to earn the label of “dominance.” An entire collection of dog training methods grew out of these beliefs, most of which focused on ensuring that that owners established dominant (also referred to as “alpha”) status over their dogs. These methods emphasized physical coercion and punishment, and promoted exercises that were believed to be necessary for effectively establishing the owner’s dominant status.

Interesting Theory…

Too bad this concept is wrong. There are several errors with this way of thinking. The first lies in the set of false beliefs about wolf behavior that prevailed in the 1970s. Wolf researchers have since reevaluated the appropriateness of using the hierarchy model of social behavior and have found it to be lacking.

Despite the widespread belief that wild wolf packs exist in a perpetual state of dominance challenges and bids for enhanced status, the collected evidence shows a glaring absence of these rigid types of relationships. There are few reports of wolves seeking higher positions in their pack, fighting over leadership, or physically dominating other wolves through aggression or alpha rolls.

Rather, today’s wolf experts tell us that the social behavior of wild wolves typically reflect cohesive, well-functioning family units that are built around cooperation rather than conflict. Pack peace is maintained not through aggression and perpetual battling for dominance, but rather through ritualized postures designed to avoid fights and cooperative behaviors such as hunting together, sharing food and raising young together. A parent-family model better describes wolf relationships in packs than does an outdated hierarchy model that focuses on strict social roles and conflict.

This doesn’t mean that wolves never display social dominance, however, or that the concepts of dominance and submission are completely useless as descriptors of behavior. Wolves (and other animals, including dogs and humans) display social dominance situationally, most often when attempting to defend a valuable resource. It is not the entire concept of dominance and dominant/submissive signaling that has been dispelled, but rather the correctness of a simple hierarchical pack structure. That concept is considered obsolete and inaccurate today.

Additionally, our understanding of both learning theory and the cognitive ability of dogs has evolved significantly over the years. Attempting to use a simple dominance hierarchy model to explain all things wolf (and dog) has fallen short when considering new evidence that supports the existence of complex thought, planning, perspective taking, and even rudimentary elements of a “theory of mind” in animals, including wolves and dogs.

And finally, we know much more about the social behavior of dogs than we did back in the 1970s. To put it bluntly: Dogs are not wolves. They do not form packs like wolves (not even at the dog park – sorry, Joe, wrong again), nor do they possess a natural tendency to battle for dominance or a need to constantly challenge humans or other dogs for higher status. Their social lives and relationships are also, just like wolves and other animals, much more complex than a simple concept of dominance hierarchy is capable of describing fully.

For example, one of the most striking ways in which dogs differ from wolves is in the dog’s ability to understand and learn from human communication signals.

The reality is that the social behavior and cognition of the dog has been profoundly influenced by domestication. Today’s dog is described by some as a socialized wolf, a variant who is well-adapted to life with humans and has lost the need to exist in a stable (wolf) pack.

In groups, feral dogs do not typically hunt cooperatively and only rarely share care of offspring. In homes, the domestic dog’s social behavior is directed more toward working with and communicating with humans, not competing with us for some arcane concept of dominance. Similarly, the relationships that dogs share with other dogs in their homes are not analogous to a wolf pack. Rather dogs have social partners (friends really) and acquaintances, just like humans. Importantly, the social groups of dogs, with humans and with other dogs, have characteristics and structures that are adaptive for domestication and for living in close proximity with their human caretakers. These characteristics are all uniquely and amazingly dog (not wolf).

Talking to Joe

So, how do we distill this down to facts that will convince Joe that his dog (a) is not a wolf and (b) does not require dominating? Here are a few talking points that you can modify as needed for your particular Joe.

• Yes, Joe, dogs and wolves are closely related. However, today’s wolf is not actually your dog’s ancestor. Rather dogs and wolves are cousins, similar in many ways to the relationship between you and a chimpanzee, Joe. Just as you would not look at chimpanzee behavior to inform you how to raise your kids (at least I don’t think you would), you should avoid focusing on wolf behavior to tell you how to raise and train your dog.
• Dogs differ from wolves in some amazing ways. They are more attuned to our facial expressions and communication signals, and they are better at cooperating with humans than are wolves. Dogs also often form friendships with other dogs in their home or community, and despite the continued attempts by some to describe it in this manner, dogs do not live in a constant state of dominance-dictated competition with other dogs.
• So, time to chill, Joe. Don’t worry so much about your dog’s status in your home or whether or not he is attempting to dominate you, your family and the world. (He’s not.) Rather, focus on all of the amazing traits and talents that your dog has inherited as a dog (not a wolf) and use those characteristics to train him to be a good family companion and community member.
• Oh, and Joe, drop the alpha status obsession once and for all, please? It embarrasses all of us, including your dog.

Evidence

Frantz LA, et al. “Genomic and archaeological evidence suggest a dual origin of domestic dogs.” Science, 2016; 352:1228-1231.

Freedman AH, et al. “Genomic sequencing highlights the dynamic early history of dogs.” PLOS Genetics, 2014; 10;e1004016.

Gacsi M, et al. “Species-specific differences and similarities in the behavior of hand-raised dog and wolf pups in social situations with humans.” Developmental Psychobiology, 2005; 47:111-122.

Hare B. “The domestication of social cognition in dogs.” Science, 2002; 298:1644.

Jensen P, et al. “The genetics of how dogs became our social allies.” Current Directions in Psychological Science, 2016; 25:334-338.

Larsen G. et al. “Rethinking dog domestication by integrating genetics, archeology and biogeography.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 2012; 109:8878-8883.

Mech LD. “Alpha status, dominance, and division of labor in wolf packs.” Canadian Journal of Zoology, 1999; 77:1196-1203.

Miklosi A, et al. “A simple reason for a big difference: Wolves do not look back at humans, but dogs do.” Current Biology, 2003; 3:763-766.

Range F and Viarnyi Z. “Tracking the evolutionary origins of dog-human cooperation: The ‘Canine Cooperation Hypothesis.'” Frontiers in Psychology, 2015; 5:1582

Note: This is not a comprehensive reference list. Rather, it includes studies that were discussed in the chapter and additional readings. For complete bibliographies, see the full list of books and textbooks at the conclusion of Case’s book, Dog Smart.

Linda Case is a canine nutritionist, science writer, and companion animal consultant who uses positive reinforcement and shaping techniques to modify behavior in dogs in basic level through advanced classes.

The post Dogs vs. Wolves appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

It occurred to me, however, that I didn’t know the MDR1 (multi-drug resistance gene) status of the newest member of my three-dog crew, Hap. MDR1 is a genetic predisposition to adverse drug reactions to more than a dozen common veterinary drugs, and the gene is found predominantly in herding breeds. Hap looks to be mostly Border Collie with maybe, just maybe, a pinch of Australian Shepherd, so having this predisposition could put him in danger in this situation. Cows are often given ivermectin as an anti-parasitic agent, and the drug can be found shortly afterward in their droppings; eating these droppings can cause a fatal reaction in a dog with the MDR1 mutation. So, I put a moratorium on the afternoon’s pie sampling, much to the dismay of my crew, and off we strolled into the sunset.

When we got home and I began looking up information on MDR1 testing, I learned that many of the genetic tests for breed-typing now also include genetic health screens, including testing for the MDR1 mutation. I thought, why not solve the mystery of Hap’s breed-mix and get health information at the same time? It sounded like fun!

How Do Dog DNA Tests Work?

While some of the early mixed-breed identification tests used a blood sample, all of the products on the market today extract DNA from cells swabbed by the dog’s owner from the inside of the dog’s cheek. The swab is sealed in a container provided by the company and mailed off to the company’s lab. There, technicians extract your dog’s DNA from the swab, and use computers to identify and compare specific bits of it to bits taken from dogs of known lineage.

The genome of a dog contains about 2.5 billion nucleotides (the building blocks of DNA); researchers focus on “only” about 200,000 of these individual genes – or rather, microsatellites or repeating sequences of DNA called single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs, pronounced “snips”) that form signatures particular to various breeds.

Researchers must have enough SNPs from enough purebred representatives of each breed in order to have an adequate array of SNPs to which they can compare your dog’s SNPs. The larger the company’s database of samples from purebred dogs, the better. When a company fails utterly to suggest ancestors of candidate breeds that are remotely likely, it’s probable that it lacks enough breeds in its databanks to find good matches for your dog’s SNPs.

Companies That Offer Mixed-Breed DNA Tests

DNA My Dog

– DNA My dog Dog Breed Identification Test, $69. Identification of 92 breeds.
– DNA My Dog Breed Test plus Wolf-Coyote Hybrid Test, $89.
– DNA Breed Identification Test plus Full Genetic Screening, $189. Health screening identifies more than 100 diseases.

Embark Veterinary, Inc.

– Embark Dog DNA Test, $199. Identification of more than 175 breeds and more than 160 diseases. “We test 20 times more of your dog’s genes than other dog DNA tests.”

Wisdom Panel

– Canine Breed Detection, $85. Identification for 250+ breeds, plus MDR1 and Exercise-induced Collapse (EIC) screening for drug and exercise sensitivities.
– Canine Breed Plus Disease Detection, $150. Identification for 250+ breeds, plus MDR1 and Exercise-induced Collapse (EIC) screening, plus advanced health screening for more than 150 genetic health conditions.

When Your Dog’s Looks Are Deceiving

That said, when dogs of various ancestry reproduce, the resulting pups may visually resemble other breeds entirely – but the genetic signatures inherited from their parents are more telling than the most dog-savvy eye. Take Clara, for example. Clara is a shelter rescue dog, adopted as a young adult, who was presumed to be mostly a Labrador, with a little something more medium-sized in the mix. Her owners, Gianna and Kip Savoie, guessed she had a herding breed somewhere in her lineage, given a lot of Border Collie-like behavioral characteristics they’d seen.

They sent a swab of her cheek to Embark for analysis. What came back was mostly what they had suspected: Labrador Retriever, a splash of Border Collie, but with a few smaller surprises and one very big one. This short-haired black dog was, in fact, declared to be more Golden Retriever (38 percent!) than anything else.

Based on the sharpest visual assessment, this may seem like an error, but it is in fact highly feasible.

Golden Retrievers carry a black gene that is expressed in their nose, the pads of their feet, their glamorous thick, black eye-liner, but not their coat. The black is blocked by the yellow gene, which is recessive, as is their characteristic luxurious long locks. A Golden Retriever bred to a dog lacking genes for yellow coloration and long coat, like a black Labrador, therefore, would result in a black dog with a short coat – a dog that looks a lot like Clara.

Some Puzzling Dog DNA Results…

On the more comedic end of the spectrum, Hap, my happy, hoppy, flying Border Collie/mystery-breed cross was declared by Wisdom Panel to be 88 percent Border Collie and 12 percent – ready for this? – Boston Terrier! Having never even seen a Boston Terrier in Montana in my 20 years living here steeped in all things dog, this struck me as highly unlikely.

Since I live in a rural, ranch-heavy area and the shelter from which I acquired this chap is small and more like a herding dog rescue than a general open-door shelter, I struggled to imagine where Boston Terrier genes could have possibly come from. On the other hand, Hap is definitely the most playful, gregarious dog I’ve known and these qualities fit the personality type of the Boston Terriers I’ve met, so maybe. Perhaps there was a Boston Casanova passing through that visited a ranch at just the right time. Strange things can happen.

But sometimes, the results do test the bounds of credulity. Take, as a case in point, the results returned by DNA My Dog from a sample from Otto, a highly-mixed breed dog belonging to WDJ’s editor, Nancy Kerns. Otto has been tested by several companies (see “Otto’s Results,” below). The two companies with the largest breed databases returned fairly similar results. But DNA My Dog, a much smaller company, returned results that were not just completely dissimilar to the results from the two larger companies, but also incredibly improbable. The breeds suggested are highly unlikely to be present in Otto’s geographic area of origin, and even less likely to be present in the identified combination.

When Dog DNA Results Don’t Make Sense

The companies that offer this service have a few standard explanations for results that don’t seem to make sense.

None of the companies would admit that their reference databases are of an inadequate size to accurately identify the SNPs from your dog – but they might suggest that this could be true of their competitors.

All of the companies will be quick to explain that there are hundreds of thousands of genes that are responsible for a dog’s appearance, and that many breed combinations result in dogs who look very different than what you would expect from that mix of breeds.

Also, genes in mixed breeds do not always combine in the same ways within all litter-mates, so size and physical and behavioral characteristics in the same litter of pups can and often do vary, sometimes wildly.

They also explain that the complexity of your dog’s mix will affect the accuracy of the results. First-generation crosses between two purebred parents are relatively easy to identify, but dogs who don’t have any purebred ancestors within several generations are much harder to identify with much certainty, as the length of the inherited SNPs that are unique to purebred dogs become much shorter with each generation of mixed-breed progeny.

Problems with identification can also arise when there is a lot of divergence within a specific breed-type, like in the case of Australian Shepherds and Border Collies, where you have field-bred lines and show-bred lines. The genetic signatures in the companies’ databases usually correspond with show-bred lines, so field-bred Aussies and BCs might even get assigned to a different breed altogether.

Both Embark and Wisdom Panel make it easy for consumers to contact them and ask questions about their dogs’ results. I called and asked a representative from Wisdom Panel to review Hap’s results with me and was told that the statistical confidence in the Boston Terrier finding was marginal, meaning there is a high probability this result is not correct. Hap could have 12 percent of something not represented in the Wisdom Panel database (such as field-bred Australian Shepherds), but since this unique signature does not currently exist in the database, he was assigned to the breed with the closest matching genetic signature. I was told that updates will be made to Hap’s report as new information is added to the database.

Which Dog DNA Test is Best?

Of the brands available, Embark and Wisdom Panel appear to be the most transparent about their methodologies and about the information available in their databases. They both make frequent updates to their products, while also being accessible to answer consumer questions. This makes them both rise to the top in my book. Note, however, that the basic Wisdom Panel 4.0 Breed Detection test costs less than half the price of the Embark test.

Other companies, like DNA My Dog, has a relatively small database with 92 breeds, very scant information available about their methodology, and I found it difficult to even find contact information to ask questions.

While commercial genetic breed-typing is still evolving, it is interesting and ridiculously fun, which is worth something. More companies are offering genetic health screens as well, which may prove useful for the long-term health care of your dog. A lot of it may not be applicable to your particular four-legged friend, so before shelling out the money, be sure to consult your veterinarian to find out what she or he recommends.

Otto’s Results

Otto’s results have morphed over the past eight years, with the unlikely Basenji disappearing and a bully breed and Australian Cattle Dog appearing in the mix. Note that the results provided by the two leading mixed-breed test providers are pretty darn similar – and that the results from the smallest company offering this service border on fantasy. (Those breeds are highly uncommon in Otto’s area of origin, and would be even more uncommonly seen in the same dog.)

2009: Wisdom Panel

German Shepherd Dog
Basenji
Chow Chow
Border Collie

2016: DNA My Dog

Level 3 (20%-36%): Collie, Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
Level 4 (10%-20%): English Setter, Norwegian Elkhound

2016: Wisdom Panel

12.5% American Staffordshire Terrier
12.5% Australian Cattle Dog
12.5% Border Collie
12.5% Chow Chow
12.5% German Shepherd Dog
37.5% (mixed)

2018: Embark

21.3% American Pit Bull Terrier
14.1% Australian Cattle Dog
13.2% German Shepherd Dog
12.3% Chow Chow
10.3% Labrador Retriever
8.0% Border Collie
4.3% Rottweiler
16.5% (“Supermutt”)

Kathryn Socie-Dunning lives with her husband and three dogs in Montana.

The post Dog DNA Tests: Mixed Results appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

INSTINCTUAL DOG BEHAVIOR OVERVIEW

• If your dog is a purebred, or is a mixed breed dog that greatly resembles a specific breed, look into the historic origins of the breed to determine what sort of work the dog was developed to perform.
• Give your dog the opportunity to use his inherited gifts during recreation or work. For example, allow dogs that are known for scent work to smell, and dogs who were bred to herd or work to run (a lot!), whether at the dog park or on a jogging path.
• Look for opportunities to train your dog for activities that harness the skills and predispositions of his breed or type.

No one knows whether dogs chose humans or humans chose them, but whatever the case, we’ve been partnered for a long time. We welcomed canis lupus familiaris into our fold – and then much later began carefully and strategically breeding them to produce dogs who would readily perform various specialized tasks. They helped humans hunt, gather, and retrieve game, rid us of vermin, herded and guarded our flocks, and protected us from dangerous interlopers. Even the smallest toy breeds were ratters by day, and lap warmers by night.

Our liaison was one of mutual convenience. We provided food, warmth, and shelter, and in turn, they performed services we needed – but their work didn’t preclude them from acting on their instincts and expressing behaviors that came naturally to them. It was a great working partnership that still exists in some parts of the world.

In this country, though, few pet dogs have any sort of job to do. Seem like a nice gig? Free food and lodging, with almost no expectations? Well . . . except for the fact that they have to give up the right to act on their instincts and may no longer express many behaviors that come naturally to them. For a dog, it’s maybe not such a good deal after all.

As a dog trainer and behavior consultant, I feel that it’s no wonder that many of the “problem dogs” I’m paid to work with are expressing undesirable behaviors; they’d likely be perfectly fine if they were living in a different time and circumstance, able to perform the work and do the things they most enjoy doing. The simplest prescription? Adopting a program of training and activities that suit dogs of their background can greatly enhance the dogs’ lives and enable them to live more successfully in our world.

Why Do We Choose Certain Dog Breeds?

Many people choose their canine companions based on aesthetic reasons; they like dogs who are a certain size or color, or who have a certain type or length of coat. Some will admit they chose their dog because it looked “just like” one on TV or in the movies, or out of nostalgia for a childhood dog, conjuring fond memories of times gone by. They may have read or heard that dogs of a certain breed are “good with kids” or “hypoallergenic,” or make “great apartment dogs.” But how many people select their dogs based on what that type of dog was originally bred to do? Very few!

While the majority of dogs in the U.S. are mixed-breeds, the rest (an estimated 40 to 45 percent) are purebreds. Not all purebreeds are recognized by the American Kennel Club (AKC), but the AKC is the largest registry of purebred dogs in the U.S. It recognizes around 200 breeds, which it organizes into formal “groups,” based on the work that the dogs where originally bred to do. According to statistics based on AKC registrations, among the current top 20 most popular breeds, five are working breeds; three apiece are in the sporting group, herding group, toy group, and “non-sporting” group (this is merely a catch-all group for dogs that don’t specifically fit in any other category); two are in the hound group, and one is in the terrier group. It’s safe to say that the majority were bred with specific characteristics and behaviors that helped make them more efficient at their jobs.

Specific characteristics and a predisposition to certain behaviors are also inherited by mixed-breed dogs; the more genetic contribution a mixed-breed dog receives from a purebred gene pool, the more likely he is to act like his purebred ancestors.

Why does this matter? Knowing what drives and motivates a dog’s forebears can inform his owner as to what is most likely to motivate him, lead to greater harmony and training success for that dog.

This is not to say that every individual dog within a breed should be expected to behave the exact same way. However, there are some distinctive breed-typical characteristics that have been selected and concentrated throughout that breed’s history that could very likely affect behavior.

Sporting Dog Breeds

Sporting breeds – Pointers, Retrievers, Setters, and Spaniels – were bred to work alongside and help the hunter on land and in water, with a strong prey drive and the strength and stamina to hunt and swim all day if needed. Does this mean all Labradors will be natural swimmers? No. Or will all Pointers and Setters be “birdy”? Not necessarily. However, most that I have met through the years have been full of energy – and when that energy is not directed toward productive activities, it can manifest in a host of undesirable behaviors such as reactive behavior, destructiveness, excessive barking, and hyperactivity. The result can be the dog being deemed as stubborn and untrainable, which couldn’t be farther than the truth.

These breeds were specifically bred to follow cues and direction, making them extremely biddable – when their physical activity needs are met, which isn’t always easy. A walk around the block or a 20-minute game of fetch when you come home for work just might not be enough.

This doesn’t mean you must take up hunting! You can simulate that work by participating in field trials and hunt tests. These sports train your dog to use his instincts to point to, flush, and retrieve game. There are fewer things as exciting as watching a young dog’s instinct kick in! A baby Irish Setter who’s never seen quail before “pointing” at one hidden in the brush without ever being taught is a sight to behold.

Agility, bikejoring, fly ball, cani-cross, dock diving, and scootering are some of the other sports and activities that can provide both physical and mental exercise for active breeds. They also promote team work between dog and owner, and help the dog’s build confidence.

Barbara Long of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, has shared her life with Gordon Setters for quite a few years and currently has two. “If they get enough exercise, they can be quite calm in the house,” writes Barbara. “Mine have been biddable but outwardly directed, independent, and persistent, which is pretty characteristic of the breed.” Barbara regularly participates in rally, tracking, and canine freestyle with her dogs.

At this writing, there are more than 24,000 Labs and Goldens alone listed for adoption on petfinder.com, and thousands of other sporting breeds and predominant sporting breed-mixes. I wonder how many of those dogs could have had been more successful in their homes if they’d had access to these types of activities?

Working and Herding Breeds

Working breeds, such as Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Boxers and Great Danes, were bred to be keepers of the castle and ward off trespassers, so it never surprises me when I receive a call from a worried owner of a 10-month-old Mastiff who seems wary of strangers. It starts to make even more sense when I learn the dog has never been to a group training class and rarely leaves the house or yard.

While all dogs need and benefit from early socialization, anyone choosing a working breed should expect to socialize, socialize, socialize; and when they think they’ve done enough, socialize some more! Dogs of working breeds should be introduced to new people and places regularly – while young, and through adolescence and adulthood. Group training classes are a great place to accomplish this. The dogs will have the opportunity to meet new people and dogs of all kinds in a controlled, predictable environment.

Sports and activities that involve thinking and problem solving, such as tracking, scent work, competitive obedience and rally obedience, are great to try with many of the working breeds. Of course, many of the working breeds are used in the specific activities for which they were developed, such as water rescue (Newfoundlands, Portuguese Water Dogs), drafting and carting (Saint Bernards, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs, Leonbergers), and sled pulling (Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes).

Jill Greff of Ottsville, Pennsylvania, has had Bernese Mountain Dogs since 2001. “I have done obedience, rally, agility, and herding with my Berners. Mostly I found they respond best to positive reinforcement and are both food- and praise-motivated,” says Greff. “Berners do things in their time. It may look like they are moving slow, but in their mind they are hurrying! Patience is key.”

Primarily bred to herd sheep and cattle on working farms, today most herding breeds in the U.S. rarely live that lifestyle. Instead they live in metro areas and suburbs, and occasionally in townhomes, condos, and apartments.

How does that work? Well, one thing is certain: if there is herding instinct there, they will still find a way to express it, often by herding the children, family cat, or worse, by chasing cars and any fast-moving object, which can be very problematic and dangerous. The challenge is finding activities that can help satisfy that urge safely and constructively.

Treibball is a great sport for herding breeds. Created in Germany a dozen or so years ago, this sport requires a dog to “herd,” or gather and drive large exercise balls into a soccer goal. It is a skill that does take quite a bit of precision training, but herding breeds tend to be very quick learners. Additionally, many herding breeds excel at dog agility and competitive obedience and rally as well.

Hounds, Terriers, Toy, and “Non-Sporting” Breeds

Both hounds and terriers were bred to work independently of man – meaning, rather than directly follow our cues and directions, they followed their own instinct and drive. Hounds use their noses to locate everything from fox, rabbits, raccoons, wild pigs, and bears (and then use their keen sight and speed in pursuit). Terriers go to ground, using their powerful claws and shoulder muscles to dig for vermin and rodents.

This is important to know when training one of these breeds, as it can save your hours of frustration when they don’t seem to be listening and become easily distracted! I’ve found it most successful to first use the highest-value rewards to motivate them to work with you, and then shape the desired behavior by rewarding increasingly close approximations of that behavior until you get the behavior you want. This can help keep a dog motivated when they otherwise might be distracted.

Most hounds and terriers have a strong prey drive, so take extra care when they are around small animals. Many toy breeds have terriers and other working breeds in their backgrounds, so one should never be surprised when a strong prey drive pops up.

A catch-all for a variety of breeds that don’t specifically fit in any of the other groups, the “Non-Sporting” group is quite a misnomer, as quite a few of the breeds so categorized were bred to be working dogs. Dalmatians are a good example of this, and a breed that is near and dear to my heart. I currently share my life with two of them, and they are the greatest Dalmatians most people meet, so I am told.

There’s a reason for that! Originating in Croatia, the Dal has performed various work through the years. They were war dogs that guarded the borders of Dalmatia, and were used to hunt vermin and wild boar, and as gun dogs, trail hounds, circus dogs, and, most notably, as carriage and coach dogs. Affectionately known as “firehouse dogs,” Dalmatians were trained to run alongside fire carriages to protect the horses and guard the firehouse.

It takes a lot of energy and stamina to run with horses for miles, and many today still have that same energy and stamina. Unfortunately, many are not given adequate outlets for that excess energy; my dogs do receive lots of daily exercise, and that’s likely the reason I receive so many compliments. I train them in competitive obedience, rally, and agility, tricks, and even coach-dog training. My dogs run with horses! And when I can’t do this, they run alongside my bike. In addition, they have an opportunity and environment that allows them to play so hard, it’s likely the equivalent of running several miles. These are the necessary activities that result in not only “the most well-mannered Dalmatians” many have ever seen, but also, the most content and happy ones, too!

Get the Dog You Want, Work with What You Get

When it comes to dog selection, it’s similar to picking your significant other: “The heart wants what the heart wants.” Regardless of what breed or type of mixed-breed dog you choose, you can enhance both of your lives if you acknowledge the instincts of his ancestors and focus on constructive ways to work with them, rather than trying to change your dog. Only then can we stop thinking something is “wrong” with our dogs, and start looking for ways to help them become the dogs their genes are telling them to be.

Canine education specialist, dog behavior counselor, and trainer Laurie Williams is the owner of Pup ‘N Iron Canine Fitness & Learning Center in Fredericksburg, Virginia.

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