Answering this question isn’t as simple as it sounds. Of course! you may say, explaining how you’ve seen it for yourself when you’ve lost one dog and another was left behind. Or you might be someone who rolls your eyes at the idea that dogs—or any beings other than humans—are capable of such a complex emotion as grief. Even scholars are divided: some insist that most animals have emotions; others argue that emotions are uniquely human; and still others fall somewhere between the two positions.[i]

Historical Perspectives On Animal Emotions

For most of the last two thousand years, while the lay public wholeheartedly believed that animals had emotions, the majority of Western philosophers scoffed at the idea, insisting that animals have nothing more than instincts that require no conscious thought. Charles Darwin strongly differed with this approach, arguing that emotions are found not just in humans, but across all species.[ii]  This was in keeping with the Enlightenment of the 17^th and 18^th centuries, when philosophers began to put forth the idea that animals possessed reason and could suffer.[iii]  By the end of the 19^th century, even the most unyielding scientists were accepting the concept of sentience, the capacity of humans and animals to experience feelings and awareness.

That belief was all but extinguished by the emergence of Behaviorism in the early 20th century. Its adherents insisted that science needed to put an end to using terms like sensation, perception, desire, and emotion, since they had no objective reality.[iv]  For much of that century, Behaviorism reigned, along with the view that false science was responsible for the mistaken belief that animals had emotions.

Then came the mid-1980s when many scientists, spurred by discoveries from pioneering animal behaviorists, along with anecdotes from long-term field studies by researchers like Jane Goodall, developed a renewed interest in animal sentience and how animals feel.[v]^,[vi]  That interest has continued to this day.

New Attitudes Toward Animal Grief

Which brings us back to the question of grief, and whether animals—dogs, specifically—are capable of feeling grief after the loss of another dog. Recent studies say yes, and that’s backed up by the experiences of countless dog caretakers. While not even the most astute scientist or animal behaviorist can know with absolute certainty what dogs know and feel about death and dying, researchers have come closer than ever before to being able to say with some degree of certainty that dogs do mourn the death of another dog in their household.

Anthropologist and author of How Animals Grieve, Dr. Barbara J. King, maintains that even though humans have a rational awareness of death and its finality, the ability to mourn doesn’t depend upon that understanding. “Our own ways of mourning may be unique,” she says, “but the human capacity to grieve deeply is something we share with other animals.”[vii]

What Studies Reveal About Grief in Dogs

To understand animal grief, researchers generally impose two preconditions: first, that the animals actively choose to spend time together; and second, when one animal dies, the survivor’s normal behaviors change, sometimes drastically, and sometimes to the point of death.[viii]  In 2022, a team of Italian researchers completed a years-long study on these kinds of changes, and came to the conclusion that the emotional bonds dogs form with humans often extend to other animals in their household, and that the death of a companion dog can result in behaviors that would typically be identified as grief and mourning.

Among the dog caretakers in the study, 86 percent observed negative changes in the surviving dog’s behavior; more than a third said the changes lasted between two and six months, and a quarter reported that they lasted longer than six months.[ix] The study rejected the theory that the caretaker’s own grief was simply being reflected onto the surviving dog, and determined that the changes in the dog’s conduct were genuine. Interestingly, researchers also found that what mattered most in terms of the degree of grief was not how long the two dogs had lived together, but the strength of their bond.[x]

When one dog in the household dies, the surviving dog may not understand that the separation is permanent, but they clearly feel the loss…which we know by observing their behavior. In 1996, the ASPCA conducted the Companion Animal Mourning Project, which found that when a dog’s companion dies, two thirds of surviving dogs showed a number of behavioral shifts, including appetite loss, sleep disruption, lethargy, increased vocalizing, avoiding play, clinginess, disorientation, and in extreme cases, wasting away.[xi]  Many of these behaviors are not unlike human mourning over the loss of a loved one.

The Nature of Grief in Dogs

Yet there remains a major problem hindering investigations into animal emotions: in the absence of a Vulcan mind probe, animal minds, just like the minds of our fellow human beings, are essentially private and unknowable, especially so because animals can’t tell us how they’re feeling. This adds fuel to the fire laid by old-school scientists who reject any theory that ventures into the territory of animal feelings. Renowned biologist and behavioral ecologist Marc Bekoff says that even if one day we discover that a dog’s brain activity is similar to a human’s when that person reports being happy or sorrowful, “some skeptics hold tightly to the view that it is impossible to know what animals are truly feeling, and that therefore these studies are fruitless.” He suggests that one reason for this intractable unwillingness to study animal emotions is because these researchers fear being labeled “soft” and “nonscientific.”[xii]

Bekoff and others believe that we need to consider not just empirical data, but also anecdotal evidence, like that provided by dog caretakers when they observe the apparently-grieving actions of their dogs after the loss of a companion dog. They argue that caretakers provide consistently reliable and accurate information about and interpretation of their animal’s behavior, evidence that simply wouldn’t be available to an outside observer in a laboratory setting.[xiii],[xiv]^,[xv]

“Even if joy and grief in dogs is not the same as joy and grief in chimpanzees, elephants, or humans, this does not mean that there is no such thing as dog joy or dog grief,” says Bekoff.[xvi] As heartbreaking as it is to see our beloved companions go through the painful process of grief, by recognizing that grief we can help them heal and cope—and perhaps ease our own grief as well.

In the end, we’re confronted with the question, What is the nature of grief? We may as well ask, What is the nature of love? since the two are so inextricably intertwined. As Barbara King reflects in How Animals Grieve, “What stands out…is not the hypotheses of human uniqueness, but the discovery that other animals do grieve, and that they grieve because they have loved.”[xvii]

[i] de Vere, Amber J. and Kuczaj, Stan A. II. “Where are we in the study of animal emotions?” Wiley Interdisciplinary Reviews: Cognitive Science. 2016. Accessed through ResearchGate. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Amber-De-Vere/publication/ 304250629_Where_are_we_in_the_study_of_animal_emotions/links/5b2bc122a6fdcc8506b7118d/

[ii] Ekman, Paul. “Darwin’s contributions to our understanding of emotional expressions.” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Dec 12, 2009; 364(1535):3449–3451. Accessed through National Library of Medicine PubMed. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2781895/

[iii] Duncan, Ian J.H. “Animal Welfare: A Brief History.” La Fondation Driot Animal: Éthique & Sciences. (Proceedings: Animal Welfare: from Science to Law). https://www.fondation-droit-animal.org/proceedings-aw/animal-welfare-a-brief-history

[iv] Katsnelson, Alla. “How do we know what emotions animals feel?” Science News April 8, 2022 https://www.sciencenews.org/article/animal-emotion-behavior-welfare-feelings

[v] Duncan, Ian J.H. “The changing concept of animal sentience.” Applied Animal Behaviour Science Volume 100, Issues 1–2, October 2006. Accessed through Science Direct. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0168159106001110

[vi] Rowan, Andrew N., et al. “Animal sentience: history, science, and politics.” Animal Sentience 31(1). May 12, 2022. Accessed through WellBeing International. https://www.wellbeingintlstudiesrepository.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1697&context=animsent

[vii] King, Barbara J. “Humans Are Not the Only Creatures Who Mourn.” Scientific American. Sept 1, 2015. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/humans-are-not-the-only-creatures-who-mourn/

[viii] ibid

[ix] Coren, Stanley, Ph.D. “Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of a Canine Housemate?” Psychology Today. March 1, 2022. Reporting on study noted in endnote 10.

[x] Uccheddu, Stefania; Ronconi, Lucia, et al. “Domestic dogs (Canis familiaris) grieve over the loss of a conspecific.” Scientific Reports 12, article number 1920. February 24, 2022. Accessed through Nature. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-022-05669-y#citeas

[xi] Hunter, Tammy, DVM; Llera, Ryan, BSc, DVM; Buzhardt, Lynn, DVM. “Do Dogs Mourn?” VCA Animal Hospitals. No date. https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/do-dogs-mourn

[xii] Bekoff, Mark. “Animal Emotions: Exploring Passionate Natures: Current interdisciplinary research provides compelling evidence that many animals experience such emotions as joy, fear, love, despair, and grief—we are not alone.” BioScience, Volume 50, Issue 10. October 2000.Accessed through Oxford Academic Journals. https://academic.oup.com/bioscience/article/50/10/861/233998

[xiii] Martens, Pimm; Enders-Slegers, Marie-José; and Walker, Jessica K.  “The Emotional Lives of Companion Animals: Attachment and Subjective Claims by Owners of Cats and Dogs.” Anthrozoös, 29(1). 2016. Accessed through Taylor & Francis Online https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/epdf/10.1080/08927936.2015.1075299?needAccess=true

[xiv] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xv] Panksepp, Jaak. “Affective Neuroscience: The Foundations of Human and Animal Emotions.” ISBN 978-0-195-17805-0. Oxford University Press. September, 2004.

[xvi] Loc sit Bekoff, Mark.

[xvii] King, Barbara J., Ph.D. How Animals Grieve. ISBN 978-0-226-43732-2. Oxford University Press. April 17, 2014.

The post Do Dogs Grieve the Loss of Another Dog? appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

Typical canine allergic reactions are itchy skin or gastrointestinal signs that develop over time. With anaphylaxis, things happen quickly. Anaphylactic shock is a full-blown, immediate reaction to an allergen.

What Is Anaphylaxis?

Anaphylaxis is a “type 1 hypersensitivity reaction,” which is an immediate, huge reaction to an allergen. It’s an overreaction, basically, with a massive output of histamine by mast cells.

In people, the first reaction is usually respiratory. In dogs, diarrhea and vomiting are the most reported first signs, as the liver is a primary target organ. Swelling (hives), drooling, shock, seizures, difficulty breathing, and death may follow quickly.

Dogs Anaphylaxis Timeline

Signs of anaphylaxis tend to start within 5 to 30 minutes of exposure to the offending antigen and worsen. In dogs, drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea are usually noticed first. If an insect bite or sting is involved, you may see hives or obvious tissue swelling right away. When anaphylaxis hits, it can quickly become anaphylactic shock.

In anaphylactic shock, the dog’s blood vessels dilate, so less oxygenated blood is available to the tissues. The heart speeds up to compensate, but vital organs like the brain and the heart itself are deprived. Anaphylactic shock is not common, but it can be fatal without rapid treatment. If you suspect this severe allergic reaction, head to the nearest veterinary clinic ASAP. Call them on the way, so they know you’re arriving.

Treatment for Dogs with Anaphylactic Shock

Treatment aims at counteracting the histamine release that is behind the clinical signs. Your veterinarian will administer corticosteroids and antihistamines along with epinephrine to work to constrict those dilated blood vessels. Dogs who are severely affected may need an endotracheal tube placed to ensure breathing is not threatened. Intravenous fluids may be required to restore vascular homeostasis (blood vessel function).

People known to suffer from anaphylaxis are often dispensed an EpiPen so they can get epinephrine right away. There are currently no EpiPens for dogs. However, because epinephrine is the main drug for treatment, your veterinarian may prescribe an EpiPen “off label” with very clear instructions for use, if a dog is at risk for anaphylactic shock. This may not be possible with small- or medium-sized dogs.

Prevention of Anaphylaxis

Obviously, if your dog has suffered an anaphylactic event, you want to avoid a recurrence. If the reaction was due to an insect sting, you will need to be super vigilant about checking your yard and home for insects such as bees and wasps.

If you can identify a food trigger, avoid that food. The same for a medication trigger. There are almost always other medications that can provide the same, or very similar treatment.

With vaccinations, if the reaction was mild (simple swelling of the muzzle for example), your veterinarian may break your dog’s vaccines down and limit him to only the necessary core vaccines, given a month apart.

Veterinarians often will pre-medicate the dog by having you come in early for an appointment and giving your dog some corticosteroids, for example. They will often then have you wait for at least 30 minutes before leaving the clinic to catch any possible reaction early on. For some dogs, going to titers to verify immunity is a solution, although many states will not accept titers for proof of rabies vaccination.

The post Anaphylaxis in Dogs appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

• Sounds that are not audible to humans
• Smells that their sensitive noses detect but humans can’t
• Boredom and attention seeking
• Pain
• Something they want
• Anxiety

Determining the cause of barking depends on the individual context. I always talk to my dogs to tell them what was going on, and you should, too.  Expert Kathy Callahan, a Whole Dog Journal contributor, explains this beautifully in her article, “How to Talk to Your Dog,” clearly demonstrating how important this can be.

For example, I have categories for my dogs and dismiss them with an “I’ve got this” tone of voice. Years ago, I attended a seminar by noted dog trainer Pam Dennison. She taught us to name people seen by the dogs, like saying, “It’s just Uncle Fred” and sounding dismissive. It works wonderfully with my crew.

My categories include:

• It means just that. It means, “You’re fine. It’s nothing.”
• This is someone we will greet/who comes into the house.
• A person we see regularly but don’t greet.
• People we see in the neighborhood who are working, like mowing.
• Vehicles with sirens.
• A passing vehicle.
• Any delivery person.
• Not here. A sound that’s far away and safe.

This is a growing list of categories that I use to communicate with my dog.

Why Is My Dog Barking All of a Sudden?

Your dog has sensed something that our human senses cannot pick up on. It’s not nothing; it is an alert thing. When it happens, it happens. Some categories of things that cause your dog to appear to bark at nothing include:

Sounds: Your hearing will never be as astute as your dog’s.  Sometimes, it’s simply a matter of going to the door/window that your dog is focusing on. That sound may become vaguely audible to you or you might see a chirping squirrel that your dog can hear but you cannot. Dismiss this with, “It’s nothing.”

Smells: Scent is another thing that can fall into my “it’s nothing” category, if I cannot detect the source. It’s worked well thus far with my super sensitive adolescent livestock guarding dog. The trick is to sound confident that you have things handled and dismiss the thing with your voice. Follow that with some soft verbal reinforcement when your dog accepts your decision.

Boredom: It’s important to know how much enrichment, both physical and mental, that your dog needs every given day. All dogs are different. Age, activity level, intelligence, health, and fitness status need to be taken into consideration. Truly, all dogs need both mental and physical enrichment. The higher energy the dog, the more mental enrichment they need. Keep that in mind when determining the cause of the barking. Your dog may be bored and need to go for a walk.

Pain: If the barking is new, especially with no identifiable cause, consider pain. It’s never a bad idea to rule out a medical issue. Pain causes so much mental anguish in any sentient being.

Desire: Is their toy stuck, do they want to play, are they hungry, do they want to be closer to you? Look around and see what the context is. We humans spend so much time zoning out with electronics these days, we often miss things that are right there, like our dog needing help fetching his toy under the couch.

Anxiety: This is another potential cause where the context needs to be thoroughly looked at. Is your dog only barking at night? The dark can cause anxiety in some dogs, especially those who may be losing their sight or feeling vulnerable in some way. Sudden barking, especially at night, may also mean that they sense something going on outside that you haven’t.

Note: Barking at night or barking for no reason can also be a sign of canine cognitive dysfunction in  your dog, including the same sundowner’s syndrome that people get.

So, before you exclaim, “Why is my dog barking at nothing?” put your detective hat on and find the something. Then, start working on an “It’s nothing” cue that tells your dog you’ve investigated the problem, telling your dog everything is just fine.

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Decades ago, a chemist named Paul Krebaum (may his name be honored forever) cracked the chemical code of the stinky, sulfur-containing substances called “thiols” that are in the musk that skunks spray to defend themselves. According to an article first published in the Chicago Tribune in November 1994, Krebaum, who worked for a company called Molex Inc in Lisle, Illinois, wasn’t trying to solve the skunk-spray problem at the time. He was looking for a substance that could neutralize the smell of other thiols, which are also present in decomposing flesh and fecal matter. In an effort to neutralize foul-smelling thiols in his lab, Krebaum harnessed the power of oxidation, formulating a solution that changes the odorous thiols into odorless acids. He had been using the formula in his lab, but he shared the recipe with a workplace friend who had been complaining about the smell of his cat, who had been skunked. Soon, other scientists heard about the formula and it went viral!

The formula:

1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
¼ cup of baking soda
1-2 teaspoons of dish soap

Mix together in a bucket or large bowl and use immediately.

So simple and inexpensive! And so incredibly effective! But there are some tricks and cautions about how to use it on a “skunked” dog:

1. You must not wash the dog with water before using the formula. Water will start to chemically alter the thiols and make their interaction with the “magic” formula slightly less effective.
2. You have to use a fresh, unopened bottle of hydrogen peroxide. Using peroxide from a bottle that has been opened and sitting around will be less effective. (Note: You can’t mix this in advance and store it; if you try, you may end up with a huge mess in your under-sink cupboard or wherever you thought you could store it. The combination of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide off-gasses oxygen and can explode whatever container you try to keep it in.)
3. If your dog gets skunked on a warm summer day, you are in luck! It’s easiest to keep the dog outdoors while you assemble the ingredients, a bucket, sponge, and a dog shampoo and towels to finish the job. But skunks are nocturnal, and are most active in spring and fall, so almost all of my dogs’ skunk encounters have happened late at night when it’s cold. A kind person would bring them in the house and straight to the bathroom for the de-skunking and post-formula bath—but just walking (or carrying) your dog to the bathroom is going to leave a strong skunk smell in the air of your house that the formula can’t remove! Poor Boone got a cold-hose bath outside. We were both shivering like mad by the time it was done.
4. Mix the formula in a clean bucket and use a sponge or washcloth to thoroughly wet your dog from nose to tail with the solution. I recommend starting at the tail end of the dog and working your way forward, because you have to be extremely careful around his eyes, nose, and mouth and will want to rinse the formulas off these areas quickly (and, remember, water will weaken the effectiveness of the formula). The formula really stings if it gets in the dog’s eyes, nose, and mouth (or any cuts you or the dog have have), so you have to wipe it on the dog’s face carefully.
5. You will notice that the skunk smell is dramatically reduced almost immediately on contact with the formula—but, with the exception of the dog’s face, let it remain in contact with the dog’s coat for at least a minute or two before rinsing the dog thoroughly with water. Knowing it can sting their lips and mouth, and because you cannot prevent them from licking their lips when you are sponging something wet onto to their face, I tend to take pity and rinse the dog’s face fairly quickly. (The skunk smell will disappear immediately, but if you don’t let the formula stay on the dog for at least a minute, it may become evident again any time the dog gets wet in the next few weeks. It won’t be as strong, but it will be apparent!) Rinse them thoroughly!
6. Follow with a quick bath with whatever soothing, good-smelling dog shampoo you have on hand and rinse them well. It’s not necessary, but they are all wet already and the nice smell of the shampoo will be a balm for your irritated nostrils.

There are a number of commercial formulas that claim to be effective for removing odors (including skunk) from your dog, but honestly, I haven’t tried any of them for skunks, because why would I? This formula works great! You just have to make sure you have the peroxide on hand at all times, or you will be driving around town in the wee hours of the night or morning, looking for an open supermarket or pharmacy where you can buy quarts of peroxide, all the while your dog is stinking up whatever location you stashed him in while you went out. I’ve been there! And now I buy two new quarts on the day after whatever skunk incident we most recently suffered ( I double the recipe for washing either of my large dogs.)

For tips on reducing the skunk smell on your clothing, shoes, towels, deck or bathroom, and so on, see this document, prepared by the University of Nebraska, Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

The post The “Magic” Skunk Formula is Science, Not Magic… appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

A Dog Recovery Suit Is a Medical Garment

A dog recovery suit, sometimes referred to as dog surgical recovery suits, are form-fitting bodysuits designed to cover various parts of a dog’s body, like a onesie for humans. “These medical garments are typically made from lightweight, breathable fabrics that protect surgical sites, wounds, or skin conditions while allowing the dog to move naturally,” says Joanne Fernandez-Lopez, DVM, director of veterinary affairs at ABCs Puppy Zs, a breeder in Coppell, Texas.

Fernadez-Lopez says recovery suits provide several benefits over traditional collars and cones. “Unlike cones that can bump into furniture and doorways, recovery suits allow dogs to navigate their environment more easily. Many dogs find bodysuits less distressing than cones, as they maintain normal peripheral vision and movement.”

Why a Dog Recovery Suit

Dog recovery suits are not only more fashionable than those bulky collars, they also serve as almost a second skin and offer these benefits:

• Fewer infections. By preventing dogs from licking or biting at wounds, recovery suits significantly reduce the risk of infections. This is especially important for surgical incisions and skin irritations.
• Better wound protection. A clean and well-protected environment created by a recovery suit can facilitate faster healing. It prevents dirt and other irritants from reaching the wound. Using a dog recovery suit after neutering or spaying is particularly common.
• Canine comfort. Recovery suits can help alleviate discomfort and anxiety for dogs recovering from procedures or injuries. The protective layer can provide a sense of security.
• Protects sutures. For surgical procedures that involve stitches or staples, a recovery suit can help prevent them from being pulled or dislodged.
• Wider coverage. Dogs can develop allergies and skin conditions such as dermatitis, and just as with humans, they can bring itchy, irritated skin. A recovery suit can help prevent them from scratching and further aggravating the condition.
• Better healing. A dog recovery suit can also keep your dog away from hot spots, those circular areas of inflamed skin that can become infected, and allow them time to heal.

Suited for More Than Surgical Recovery

Beyond post-surgery and other medical conditions, recovery suits serve multiple purposes, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

• Easing anxiety: “The gentle pressure can have a calming effect, like anxiety wraps useful during thunderstorms or fireworks,” she said, “They can also help reduce excessive barking and nervous behaviors.”
• Alternative to diapers: Recovery suits can also help older dogs suffering from bladder control issues and offer protection for female dogs during heat cycles.
• Regulating temperature: Dog recovery suits also offer protection from sun exposure, provide warmth for short-haired breeds, and offer post-grooming protection, according to Dr. Fernandez-Lopez.

Choosing the Right Recovery Suit

The best recovery suit for your dog will depend on their size, the nature of their injury or medical condition, and your pet’s comfort level. A variety of styles are available, including full-body suits, body wraps, sleeves protect one particular leg, and undershirts. (Be sure you purchase two surgery recovery suits for your dog, because you will need one for her to wear while the other is being washed and dried.)

When choosing a recovery suit, consider these options:

1. Pick a size that allows the suit to fit snugly but comfortably, without restricting his movement.
2. Look for a breathable, washable lightweight material to prevent your dog from getting too hot or experiencing any discomfort.
3. Ease of pottying. Choose a suit designed to provide adequate coverage for the affected area while allowing for your dog’s needs, such as eating, drinking, and openings for bathroom breaks.

Note: Those with smaller dogs may be able to do a makeshift surgery recovery suit made out of a child’s onesie or even a makeshift T-shirt wrap for coverage. But, by and large, these improvised coverages will fail your dog’s teeth and persistent testing. With surgery suits for dogs starting at around $25, they’re truly the better bargain with far fewer accidents.

Dog Surgery Recovery Suits at a Glance

Note: Prices and sizes may vary.

Suitical Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its unique design allows for full mobility and comfort.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking, and allows for normal activities like eating and drinking.
Price: $28 and up

Shed Defender Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its lightweight, breathable fabric and calming design.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes healing.
Price: $30 and up

Calm Paws Calming Recovery Vest
Notable features: Its calming design and gentle pressure points.
Benefits: Protects wounds, reduces anxiety, and promotes relaxation.
Price: $30 and up

AmazonBasics Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its affordability and basic functionality.
Benefits: Provides basic protection for wounds and prevents licking.
Price: $25 and up

Surgi Snuggly
Notable features: Their wide size range and comfortable, stretchy fabric.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and chewing, lightweight and breathable, allows for full body coverage in various sizes.
Price: $30 and up

BellyGuard – After Surgery Dog Recovery Onesie
Notable features: Its unique design that features a built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, built-in sanitary pouch for female dogs, comfortable and breathable fabric.
Price: $40 and up

VetMedWear Recovery Suit
Notable features: Its focus on veterinarian-recommended features and durability.
Benefits: Protects wounds, prevents licking and scratching, veterinarian-approved design, durable and washable fabric.
Price: $48 and up

ZenPet ZenDog Anxiety Vest & Recovery Suit
Notable features: Dual-purpose design; soft, flexible fabric and easy step-in design.
Benefits: Effective for both recovery and anxiety
Price: $39 and up

Medical Pet Shirt
Notable features: Cotton-based fabric; strong seam construction
Benefits: Available in multiple styles for different recovery and other needs.
Price: $28 and up

Medipaw Dog Surgery Suit   
Notable features: Two-piece design for bathroom breaks. Removable bottoms can be left off if this area does not require protection.
Benefits Protects wounds, prevents licking/scratching

The post When to Choose a Dog Recovery Suit appeared first on Whole Dog Journal.

What Is Dog Hip Dysplasia?

The hip is a ball-and-socket joint. The head of the femur (the long bone below the hip) is the “ball” that should fit comfortably into the acetabulum, which is the concave “socket” on the pelvis. Ideally, these two areas develop, fit, and grow together, fitting neatly.

With dysplasia, the two parts don’t fit together tightly and fully. The femur head may be totally out of the socket of the acetabulum, or the acetabulum may be flattened to some extent, so it doesn’t “cup” the femoral head. In hip dysplasia, there is joint laxity that will contribute to the development of arthritis over time.

When Does Dysplasia Show Up in a Dog?

Severe cases of hip dysplasia may show up in a puppy as early as 4 months of age, but generally owners or veterinarians notice problems at 9 months to 1 year of age. Mild cases may not get diagnosed until a dog is even older, usually with clinical signs due to secondary osteoarthritis.

It can be difficult to identify a hip problem in young puppies, especially if the problem is mild. Puppies tend to move a bit galumpy, especially large and giant breeds, which tend to have the highest rates of hip problems. Some people think there is a puppy dog hip dysplasia stance, which is described as a narrow hind-leg stance, but the puppy’s gait, or movement, is a more telling sign of hip dysplasia.

How Do You Know Your Puppy Has Hip Dysplasia?

Limping is an obvious sign of dysplasia. If both rear legs are affected, however, the gait may appear normal but with a short stride. Within a litter, an affected pup may take longer to get up and get moving. He may be consistently left behind when the others take off running. His movement may appear “wobbly” or ataxic (kind of clumsy).

A puppy who tends to “bunny hop” frequently often has an orthopedic problem. (Many pups will do this occasionally but grow out of it.) You might notice that the pup does not stand square on all four feet but “off loads” weight on one hind leg. You can tell this by looking at the paws. Do they both look the same when standing on level ground? You can also see if your pup reacts the same when you go to pick up one hind leg versus the other.

Puppies with dysplasia often are less active due to soreness. An affected pup may have more trouble doing stairs than littermates. While most puppies don’t show acute pain, some will. Those pups may snap or cry if you touch or try to manipulate the painful hip joint. Astute owners may notice a difference in muscle mass between the two rear legs if only one hip is involved.

Veterinary Diagnosis of Hip Dysplasia

Ortolani Sign. Your veterinarian may be able to predict hip dysplasia by checking for the Ortolani Sign, which is a way for your veterinarian to grade hip laxity. This manipulation is based on a test done on newborn human babies. According to the American College of Veterinary Surgeons, “Many primary care veterinarians can perform this exam during the early age, 10 to 16 weeks, often done at vaccination or wellness exams. If the Ortolani Sign is not present, there is a false negative possibility that can be resolved by the quantitative PennHIP method.”

PennHIP radiographs. The PennHIP evaluation for puppy joint laxity can be officially done as young as 16 weeks of age. For definitive diagnosis, the PennHIP radiographs are the way to go. PennHIP requires general anesthesia or heavy sedation, some special equipment, and a certification process completed by veterinarians performing the procedure. A big advantage to this evaluation is that if joint laxity is conformed, the puppy has multiple surgical options available to minimize potential lifelong disability. Some of those surgical procedures are best done by a year of age.

OFA System. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or OFA, is the best-known radiographic system for evaluating hips in dogs. This involves one film that is evaluated by three veterinary radiologists. A pup can have a preliminary report done at a year of age with a permanent evaluation done at two years of age.

Treatment for Puppy Hip Dysplasia

Owners of puppies with hip dysplasia have four surgical treatment options. These procedures should be done by board-certified veterinary surgeons as these are complicated orthopedic procedures. The future activity level of the puppy will vary with the procedure. Strict post-op care and rehabilitation will be important.

Mild cases of hip dysplasia. Luckily, most dogs with mild hip dysplasia do not require surgery for good quality of life. Diet and nutrition are extremely important. Puppies should not be allowed to get overweight and should be on a balanced diet suitable for puppies (with special consideration for large and giant breed puppies). Slow, steady growth is ideal. Moderate exercise is important as well. This means daily leash walking and low-impact exercise like swimming. You want to keep the affected joints from getting stiff from disuse but not overly strain them.

Rehab helps. If your veterinary clinic has a rehab department, it is ideal to work with them to come up with a program to keep your pup fit but not overstressed. That might involve exercises to do at home, use of a treadmill (dry or underwater), and a walking regimen. Avoid sports like leaping after a flying disc or agility.

Maybe to Supplements. Cartilage protection and joint supplements don’t have extensive clinical proof but, anecdotally, many of them help keep dogs with arthritis comfortable. Discuss which ones make sense for your pup with your veterinarian. Be aware that some dog foods already contain joint supplements, but the amounts included are rarely enough to be therapeutic.

NSAIDs for pain. For days when your pup is in pain, NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) may be needed for good quality of life.

Prevention of Hip Dysplasia

How can you avoid or prevent hip dysplasia? Start by getting a puppy with an extensive health pedigree for good hips—ask the breeder. This means his parents had hip evaluations, as well as aunts, uncles, grandparents, etc. While this is not a guarantee of good hips, since it is a polygenic trait with environmental influences, it is a great start.

Keep your puppy slim while growing up. Avoid high joint-stress exercise. That means no long runs, minimal trips up and down lots of steps, and no or minimal jumping while joints are still developing and growth plates have not closed.

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Keep in mind that grooming costs can vary widely depending on factors such as:

• Your dog’s breed, size, and coat type
• Your location (regional area, city, suburbs, rural)
• Your groomer’s training, experience, equipment, and grooming facility
• Your dog’s coat condition and previous grooming experience

How Much Dog Grooming Costs on Average

Basic grooming sessions usually include a bath and brush-out, nail trimming, ear cleaning, and a simple haircut or trim. Based on size, nationwide averages for these basic dog grooming services are:

• $30 to $50 for small dogs (up to 20 pounds)
• $50 to $80 for medium-sized dogs (20 to 50 pounds)
• $80 to $120 for large dogs (50 to 80 pounds)
• $120 to $200 for giant breeds (over 80 pounds)

More extensive dog grooming services include a deep-cleaning bath, detailed haircut, anal gland expression, teeth brushing, or other specialized treatments. Comprehensive grooming packages average:

• $50 to $80 for small dogs
• $80 to $110 for medium-sized dogs
• $110 to $150 for large dogs
• $150 to $250 for giant breeds

Special dog grooming services add additional fees to basic prices. Examples include:

• De-matting treatments that remove snarls, tangles, and mats ($10 to $100 extra depending on the coat’s condition)
• Flea baths and flea treatments ($10 to $45 extra)
• Medicated baths or specialized skin treatments ($15 to $45 extra)
• Shed-control treatments (price depends on size and coat)
• Stand-alone nail trims, which can often be done on a drop-in basis for an average fee of $15.

When to Go to a Professional Groomer

Professional grooming is most important when your dog has a complex coat, you don’t have time to perform thorough at-home grooming, or your dog has a skin condition that requires specialized care.

Keep in mind that prices vary by region. In general, grooming prices are highest in large cities and lower in rural areas. In addition, mobile groomers, who come to your home, are more expensive than groomers who work in salons. In the end, everything depends on supply (the number of qualified, experienced groomers and the services they offer) and demand (the number of dogs and owners needing their attention). For accurate estimates in your area, contact local groomers and grooming salons.

Grooming Factors to Consider When Getting a Dog

If you are shopping for a dog or planning to adopt one, start with an understanding of the different breeds’ grooming requirements. If you don’t enjoy brushing dogs (for some breeds it’s a daily requirement) or if you can’t afford frequent visits to groomers, think twice about living with a dog with a high-maintenance coat.

For example, Poodles, Shih Tzus, and Afghan Hounds—and mixes with similar coat types—cost from $50 to $200 per grooming session. These dogs often need monthly appointments. Similarly, breeds that are heavy shedders like Alaskan Malamutes, Siberian Huskies, and German Shepherd Dogs can be expensive to groom when the seasons change. In contrast, short-haired and smooth-coated dogs typically cost $40 to $50 for basic grooming.

How to Reduce Grooming Costs

If you have a puppy or adult dog who isn’t used to professional grooming, start with short training sessions that will help him relax and enjoy the experience. Do this with short, gentle, reward-filled brushing sessions, massage your pup’s paws daily, gently touch his face and head with the back of a spoon or spoon handle (this will help him relax around scissors), set your phone to vibrate and simulate the vibration of clippers, and encourage him to stand still for bathing and brushing.

Ask for meet-and-greet introductions to any groomer you’d like to try. In a few minutes, an experienced groomer can recommend grooming options, explain their fees, answer your questions, and help your dog feel comfortable in the salon.

Your groomer can recommend combs or brushes to use at home, how often to brush your dog, how often to bathe and with what products, and other suggestions for routine maintenance.

If your dog’s coat has tangles and mats, bathing may worsen them and trap moisture on the skin, potentially causing more problems. There is no simple way to remove mats and tangles without shaving the dog, though in some cases they can be picked apart. A professional groomer will know what approach to take.

Why Is Dog Grooming So Expensive?

Dog grooming most closely resembles human hair styling. If you have a favorite hair stylist or barber, you’re likely to schedule regular appointments, tip well, and develop a personal relationship. You respect your stylist’s training, experience, equipment, and efficiency. As groomer Lara Fasekas explains, “Dog grooming can cost more than a human haircut because there’s so much involved. It’s also more physically demanding because groomers have to lift and position dogs of all sizes. Dog grooming equipment has come a long way with the help of innovations that cost money, like belly straps that fasten to the groomer’s wall to keep dogs closer and help them feel safer. Quality scissors and clippers are serious investments, costing hundreds of dollars. In addition, there is a nationwide shortage of experienced groomers, and all of this adds to the cost of grooming.”

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While dogs can get a variety of lip sores and red bumps, but one of the most common is chronic ulcerative paradental stomatitis, or “CUPS.” (It’s also sometimes called canine chronic ulcerative stomatitis.)

CUPS Looks like a Cold Sore

CUPS is a very painful lip-sore infection. Dogs with CUPS have inflammation on their gums, the inside of their lips, and possibly even on the roof of their mouths and their tongues. CUPS may cause small ulcers that look like a human’s cold sores.

The base cause of CUPS appears to be an overactive immune response to the bacteria that accumulate in the mouth, especially as plaque on your dog’s teeth. Even a small amount of plaque can lead to this intense and painful reaction. Some breeds seem to have a genetic predisposition to this problem, including Maltese, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Greyhounds, and Labrador Retrievers.

Symptoms of CUPS

Signs that might tip you off to a problem vary with the severity of the condition but can include:

• Excessive drooling
• Thick saliva
• Lack of appetite
• Doesn’t drink water
• Abnormally bad breath

Some dogs will develop lip-fold pyoderma as a secondary problem. Your dog’s mouth will be painful, and he may resist you looking in his mouth or working at his dental hygiene. Your veterinarian may sedate your dog to do a thorough oral exam.

Tooth Removal for Lip Infection

Now comes the shocking part: The best treatment is to remove all the dog’s teeth in the affected areas.

This is a difficult surgery that may be split into two sessions as it can take hours. Many of the teeth are not openly diseased or loose but still need to be removed. If any teeth are left, they need to be thoroughly cleaned. They may need to be removed in the future, if the condition recurs. Ideally, a board-certified veterinary dentist would do the surgery.

Aftercare involves pain medications and antibiotics to help prevent any secondary infections. Your dog may need soft, room-temperature food for a bit. Once the mouth is healed, most dogs happily go back to their normal diet, even if it is dry kibble. Any sutures that were needed will dissolve.

CUPS can mimic regular periodontal disease initially. That means an accurate diagnosis may not happen right away. A referral to a board-certified veterinary dentist may be needed to get the definitive diagnosis.

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As much as we hate to see our dogs in pain, you can’t assume the pain relievers we take ourselves are effective, or more importantly, are safe drugs for our dogs.

The answers to the questions “Can I give my dog Tylenol for pain?” and “How much Tylenol can I give my dog?” are short and simple: No and none.

Pain should always be diagnosed by a veterinarian before treatment, and the veterinarian will advise you as to the best and safest way to treat pain in your dog.

Why say ‘no’ to Tylenol and Acetaminophen

While sometimes used in veterinary medicine for dogs under strict guidelines, Tylenol, a common over-the-counter pain reliever for humans, can kill your dog.

When ingested, according to the FDA, acetaminophen can cause severe damage in dogs including:

1. Liver damage, the higher the dose, the worse the damage and risk of liver failure.
2. Red blood cell damage, which causes these cells to lose their capability to carry oxygen throughout the dog’s body.

According to the American College of Veterinary Pharmacists (ACVP), “It is important to note that acetaminophen may be present in multi-symptom cold and allergy products.” Any accidental ingestions of one of these types medications should be reported to your veterinarian immediately. Early intervention can significantly improve the chances of recovery, so if you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol/acetaminophen, contact your veterinarian or a pet-poison hotline, like:
• ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, a 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435

• Pet Poison Helpline, 24-hour animal poison control service at (855) 764-7661

There may be a charge for these calls.

Signs and symptoms of toxicity, according to ACVP, include weakness, rapid breathing, shortness of breath, blue/purple discoloration of skin or mucous membranes, jaundice, vomiting, significant decrease in body temperature, and facial or paw swelling.

Alternatives to Tylenol

The FDA suggests that veterinarians advise clients about controlling dog pain with NSAIDs (nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), which include these approved-for-dogs drugs:

• Carprofen (brand and generic names)
• Deracoxib (Deramaxx)
• Firocoxib (Previcox)
• Grapiprant (Galliprant)
• Meloxicam (Metacam and generics)
• Robenacoxib (Onsior)

Consult our online guide to pain medications, “Dog Pain Medication: A Guide to Common Drugs,” by Dr. Jennifer Bailey, for more information.

While not as toxic as acetaminophen, these are prescription drugs, so follow your veterinarian’s guidance. Monitor your dog while he is taking any of the NSAID listed above and for a little while after he or she has taken it.

“Every year veterinarians prescribe millions of doses of NSAIDs for dogs with good reason — but many side effects occur. As a group, NSAIDs may affect the kidneys, liver, and gastrointestinal tract. The FDA lists reported side effects in dogs and cats as “vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression, and lethargy.”

Most of these side effects are mild, but serious side effects may occur, especially if the drug is not used according to the label. These side effect include gastrointestinal ulcers and perforations and kidney and liver problems that, in some cases, can result in death.

If your pet experiences more severe reactions (e.g., seizures, is unconscious or losing consciousness, or having difficulty breathing), take your dog to your veterinarian or emergency veterinary clinic, along with the bottle that the drug came from. And always keep both prescription and over-the-counter medications stored in a place your dog can’t access.

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This commitment was acknowledged last month by an organization called Compassion in World Farming with a “Better Chicken Award,” given in recognition of the company’s as the first commercially prepared food and second overall company in the world* to fully implement the Compassion in World Farming’s “Better Chicken Commitment (BCC).” This standard does more than just requiring chicken farmers to provide the potential for birds to go outdoors (making them “free-range” or “cage-free”); it more fully encompasses the environment the birds live in. This includes the density of the birds in their living area, referred to as “stocking space,” giving them more room to flap their wings and walk comfortably. The BCC calls for an enriched environment, with more light provided than standard “growing barns” provide (conventional factory farms keep the light low, to keep overcrowded birds calm), clean and dry substrate underfoot, as well as giving them roosts and elevated platforms to sleep on. The BCC also addresses the genetics of the chickens—promoting breeds that don’t grow so quickly that they are unable to stand when they reach slaughter weight—and humane slaughter methods.

Having grown up in Petaluma, California, once the “egg capital of the world” (and still home to many chicken and egg producers when I lived there), I have seen factory chicken farms. One of my best friends in high school lived in a rental house that was situated on the property of one of these farms, and not only was the smell and noise of the highly concentrated chickens evidence of the suffering we couldn’t see going on inside the barns, we regularly witnessed farm workers removing the birds that died in the barns before they were mature enough to harvest; their carcasses were horrible to behold, as sick and dying chickens often get attacked and maimed by their peers. The ones that lived didn’t look much better! We’d see them only when they were loaded into trucks (usually at dusk or dawn, when the low light kept them calm), but even these “healthy” birds looked awful, only half-feathered and with skin raw from ammonia burns—a side effect of living their entire but short lives in their own mess.

Anyway, I applaud any efforts made by food producers to buy and use humanely raised meat sources in their products—and wholeheartedly admire companies like Evermore. It’s awesome that they have managed to make a high-quality food for dogs at a price that is not out of line with their competitors, using ingredients that are demonstrably far better than just “cage-free.”

*By the way, Campfire Treats, located in a town not far from me, is the first company in the world to meet all the standards of the BCC. I’ll be checking out their dog treats soon!

Do humane certifications or humane claims influence your buying decisions? Please tell us why or why not!

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The act of licking physically removes any debris that may be contaminating the wound. This can include dirt, rocks, plant matter, hair, glass, and even dead and damaged tissue. It can also physically remove some bacteria that may be in the wound.

Wounds hurt because the damaged nerves in the area send pain signals to the brain. While it may seem counterintuitive to touch a wound to provide pain relief, overloading the nerves can decrease the overall pain. Your dog licks his wounds for the same reason that we rub at cuts, bumps, and bruises.

Dog saliva is antibacterial, but only to a point. Studies have shown that it has a mild antibacterial effect on a few species of bacteria. Unfortunately, dog saliva also has other types of bacteria, which can in turn infect the wound.

Should I Let My Dog Lick His Wound?

No, don’t let your dog lick his wound. Proper first aid and veterinary care will do everything that licking can do, but better. Dogs also tend to keep licking past the point of benefit and can damage the wound further and prevent it from healing.

For small wounds, you can gently clean them at home with a clean cloth, water, and a diluted antiseptic such as chlorhexidine. You can also try a natural antiseptic like a vinegar rinse. Deep or large wounds will require veterinary care to fully clean them and remove any debris, plus determine if sutures are necessary to promote healing.

Your veterinarian can also prescribe safe pain medications for your dog. These might include both oral pain pills and a topical numbing gel on the wound.

Your veterinarian may also prescribe appropriate antibiotics that will be effective against all harmful bacteria that may have contaminated your dog’s wound.

What to Put on Dog Wounds to Stop Licking

To prevent your dog from licking a wound, you can:

• Use an Elizabethan collar (cone) or similar device to prevent your dog from reaching the area
• Use a T-shirt, surgery suit, or light bandage to cover the wound and prevent access
• Spray something that tastes bad, such as Bitter Apple spray, on the area to deter your dog from licking

Remember that just because the wound has started to scab over doesn’t mean you can trust your dog yet. Scab formation can be itchy, enticing your dog to lick and chew at the area before it is fully healed.

Why Do Dogs Lick Human Wounds?

Our dogs can’t tell us why they try to lick our wounds, but it’s considered an instinctive response to an open wound. Dogs also lick us as a sign of affection or submission, and the act of licking releases the feel-good chemical serotonin in your dog’s brain.

Unfortunately, dog licking human wounds does not help healing. Just like our dogs, we are much better served by cleaning our wounds with proper medical supplies and seeking medical care for pain medications and antibiotics if needed.

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Signs that your dog may have tasted the Christmas tree:

• Excessive drooling
• Shaking head or pawing at mouth
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Irritated mouth
• Not wanting to eat
• Lethargy
• Weakness

Dogs are more likely to experience stomach upset and other issues if they eat a large amount of the Christmas tree (or lick up a bunch of sap). Small dogs are, of course, at higher risk than big dogs.

If the Christmas tree sap or needles irritate your dog’s mouth, even a small amount can cause drooling and other signs of discomfort. This can also happen simply because your dog doesn’t like the taste.

Most mild symptoms should go away quickly. If your dog has diarrhea or is vomiting for more than a day, call your veterinarian to get medications to calm his system down.

The more concerning symptoms are ones that are more severe, such as both vomiting and diarrhea at the same time, muscle weakness, or symptoms that persist over time. Vomiting and diarrhea at the same time is an emergency due to rapid dehydration. If your dog has a poor appetite and doesn’t seem to feel well, he may have an intestinal blockage or perforation from the branches or pine needles. These problems will require surgery.

Pets Drinking Christmas Tree Water

Christmas tree water carries the risk of sap, but it can also contain worse things for your dog. These potentially dangerous toxins include fertilizer and preservatives intended to keep the tree alive longer, as well as bacteria and mold that can build up over time.

Avoid treating your Christmas tree’s water with any fertilizers, and if purchasing your tree off a lot, ask if it has been treated with preservatives. Change the water regularly to prevent buildup of mold and bacteria.

Note: Poinsettias and mistletoe are both toxic holiday hazards for pets.

Are Artificial Trees Safer?

Artificial Christmas trees have some of the same risks if our dogs chew on them. Older fake trees may shed needles, which your dog might eat. Your dog may also choose to chew on the branches. Eating part of an artificial Christmas tree can cause injuries in the mouth and/or an intestinal blockage.

How to Keep Dogs Away from Christmas Trees

Need to keep pets away from your Christmas tree? Try these tips:

• Use a baby gate to keep pets out of the room with the tree
• Use a short decorative fence to keep dogs away from the tree and presents (this will likely not deter cats)
• Place fragile and tempting ornaments (fuzzy animals, balls, candy canes, popcorn strings, etc.) high up on the tree where your dog can’t reach
• Crate your dog in another room when you can’t supervise him around the tree
• Have plenty of fresh water available in the usual locations so your dog isn’t tempted to try to tree water
• Cover the tree water with a tree skirt or other covering
• Anchor the tree so it can’t tip over
• Don’t “invite” your dog to every holiday gathering.

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